Burgundy, Provence, and the French Riviera

France

Burgundy, Provence, and the French Riviera

Welcome to Burgundy, Provence and French Riviera where you’ll spend the next week enjoying the best of France. A stay in Burgundy lets you enjoy France’s countryside, sporting rolling hills, mustard fields, medieval villages, and of course it’s world famous wine. You’ll then make your way to Lyon, with it’s striking historical center. Drive through Provence, taking in the famous sites of Avignon and Arles, and finish in the French Riviera and the famous city of Nice with its glorious sunshine and Mediterranean beaches.

Length: 10 Days

Transport: This is an exclusively train based trip – you won’t need a car. See our Europe Train page for more information.

Recommended Guide Book: Rick Steves France

Day 1 – Paris to Beaune

Day 2 – Beaune to Lyon

Day 3 – Lyon

Day 4 – Lyon

Day 5 – Avignon and Arles

Day 6 – Arles to Nice

Day 7 – Nice

Day 8 – The French Riviera: Villefranche sur Mer or Antibes

Day 9 – Monaco (aka how the other half lives)

  • Train to Monaco (24 minute train ride, leave from Gare de Nice Ville)
  • Explore Monaco
  • Train to Menton (10 minute train ride from Gare de Monaco)
    • Lunch – Le Bistrot des Jardins or Fleur de Sel (or splurge on 3 starred michelin Mirazur)
    • Explore the town and beach
    • Halles Municipales – covered food market
    • Museum dedicated to the work of Cocteau
    • Afternoon treat from Au Baiser du Mitron
  • Train back to Nice (32 minute train ride from Gare de Menton)
  • Dinner – L’Ane Rouge
  • Lodging – same place (night 4/4)

Day 10 – Back to Paris

  • Return to Paris by train or plane

Detailed Itinerary

Day 1 – Paris to Beaune

Arrive in Paris. Strongly consider adding a day in Paris if you’re coming from the states. Alternatively take the train to Beaune and stay there an extra day – allow yourself a day to recuperate from the long flight before beginning this itinerary. Check out our Paris itinerary if you want to lengthen the trip by a few days more.

If arriving in Paris you will likely fly into Charles de Gaul airport. The TGV (bullet train) has a station in the airport. You will need a train reservation, but once you get on, in about two hours you will be whisked (at 170 – 250MPH) to Beaune. If you were already in downtown Paris the TGV also leaves from Gare de Lyon. Since this will be a train heavy trip consider a Eurail single country pass. You will still need reservations on the TGV, and in general for any Eurail train you’ll need reservations during popular times and most overnight trains (see Train Europe page).

As you travel in style you’ll pass through beautiful countryside to Beaune, located in the heart of Burgundy. Burgundy is all about food and wine, and Beaune is the most charming town in the region. The highlights of Beaune include the remarkable architecture and history of Hotel Dieu (an ancient charity hospital – now a museum), a walk along the ramparts of the medieval town wall (partially intact), and wine tasting (try Patriarche Pere et Fils, Marche aux vines, and/or Maison Joseph Drouhin). If it’s Wednesday or Saturday enjoy the wonderful Beaune Market.

There are a lot of restaurant options – consider the Le Caveau des Arches, but there are a lot of other good choices including Le Comptoir des Tontons, or Maison du Colombier.

For the best lodging in town consider Hotel le Cep, or if you want a somewhat less expensive option try Les Jardins de Lois (night 1/1).

Day 2 – Beaune to Lyon

The countryside and villages of this region are delightful and fortunately there is an easy way to get out amongst them – rent a bike. There are mostly traffic free paths through the vineyards for safe, flat, and delightful riding. You can head south and visit the village of Pommard (3 miles) where you can visit another winery (Chateau de Pommard) and a chocolatier. The next town is Meursalt (3 miles further) with a nice town square, more wineries (Chateau de Meursault, Domaine Chateau de Citeaux, Domaine Jean Monnier et Fils, JanotsBos), and a good selection of places for lunch including L’Episode Restaurant.

Cruise back to Beaune and hop on an afternoon train to Lyon (1h 44m from Gare de Beaune).

Check into your hotel, we recommend Hotel des Celestins (night 1/3). Make sure you stay in the Old Town.

Have dinner at one of Lyon’s many spectacular restaurants, especially Auberge de l’Ile Barbe.

Beaune, Vineyard

Day 3 – Lyon

Lyon is France’s second largest city and is a wonderful place to spend a few days. The Peninsula (Presq’ile) between the Soane and Rhone river looks and feels like a small version of  Paris. It has an Old Town that’s great for wandering.

In the morning start with a walking tour of the Vieux Lyon- this will give you a great way to visit the covered passages known as traboules used to protect valuable silks during production from the elements and thieves. At the Pace des Terreaux is an interesting silk workshop and the fine arts museum with a modest collection. There are also a couple of silk / textile museums located here (with zero information in English). After your tour, wander through the Presq’ile on a self tour. On the Soane river bank is the daily St. Antoine Market and make sure you don’t miss the St. Jean cathedral.

In the afternoon visit the Resistance Museum. Lyon has a great and easy metro system – grab the metro to the Perrahce train station then grab the T2 tram – get off at Center Berthelot. Lyon was the “capital of the Resistance” during WWII and the Nazis accomplished a significant amount of planning, torture, and organization during their occupation. This museum walks through all the events that transpired in Lyon.

Lyon as the culinary capital of France doesn’t scrimp on its ice cream either. After the museum, grab an ice cream at Terre Adelice.

Continue the culinary scene and be sure and eat well tonight.

Lyon, France

Day 4 – Lyon

In the morning enjoy a walking tour of the La Croix – Rousse area.

Consider a visit to the Lumiere museum is another option – devoted to film making and photography. It is further away from the main part of town – we found it interesting but would choose the resistance museum and Roman Theater and Museum over this if you’re planning to limit seeing museums.

Take the funicular up to see the Roman theater and museum and Notre Dame Basilica.

Enjoy another awesome Lyon meal.

Lyon, France

Day 5 – Avignon and Arles

It’s only an hour via train from Lyon to Avignon in Provence. Avignon is famous for the palace of the popes (it was the center of christendom for 100 years – Rome was not during these years), and a medieval bridge made famous by a nursery rhyme (on the bridge of Avingnon, they are dancing, they are dancing…). It’s an attractive walled town great for a wander.

First visit the famous bridge, made famous by the aforementioned song- St Benezet Bridge.  The nursery rhyme dates to the 15th century – the bridge to the 12th (built 1171-1185). Only 4 arches survive today but it had initially been a massive feat of engineering with 22 arches spanning 3000 feet and was one of the few crossings of the Rhone at the time.

Next, head  into town and make your way to the massive Pope’s palace – the largest gothic palace in the world. The history of the papacy in Avignon (for a time there were two popes – one here and one in Rome) is interesting. The building itself, while impressive, is pretty empty. Anything portable disappeared during the French revolution.

From here take some time to wander through the old town then hop back on the train and head to Arles (18 minute train ride), where you will spend the night. Consider Appartement Arles Center Historique or Hotel Spa Le Calendal (night 1/1). 

For dinner check out La Gueule du Loup or L’Autruche.

Avignon Bridge

Day 6 – Arles to Nice

In the morning is your chance to explore Arles. Begin with a self-guided walking tour of Van Gogh‘s life in the city. You can get pick up the tour map/infomation at the TI (where the tour begins). Van Gogh lived in Arles for his most productive years and as you wander around town enjoy the displays the city has set up with the picture he painted vs the real scene. The walk is the main thing to do in Arles and will include a visit to the impressive Arles Roman Amphitheater in the middle of town. The walk and visit to the sights along the way will take the better part of a day. Don’t forget to stop repeatedly for the obligatory ice cream (glacé).

When done, train to Nice (3h30 minute train ride).

Check into your lodging. You’ll be staying for 4 nights so consider an apartment rental or AirBNB where you can cook if you’re getting tired of eating out or want to save some money. Stay in the Old Town of Nice. Consider this apartment rental or this apartment rental, though there are many on both booking.com and Airbnb depending on your group size.

For dinner, Nice has some great restaurants. If you like olive oil try Oliviera (where they sell their own oil and use it in their dishes) or if truffles are more your thing try La Roustide. 

Arles Arena

Day 7 – Nice

Nice is the largest Cote d’Azur town and is large enough to be considered a city. It has been a destination resort since the 1800’s and is full of classy Bel Epoque hotels, a great beach promenade and charming old town. It’s not as glitzy as St. Tropez or Monte Carlo, but it’s beautiful and a great place from which to explore the French Riviera. If you are at a convention in town the convention hall is linked to the old town and beach / promenade by a convenient tram system.

Start your day by wandering Vieux Nice (Old Town) and enjoy imagining how it must have been in the 19th century. Stroll leisurely along the promenade and enjoy the views of the Mediterranean Sea.

Make your way to the Chagall museum which hosts the largest collection of Chagall’s work in the world.

After the museum, climb the stairs to the top of a grassy park known as Colline du Chateau. This park is where the Greeks settled in Nice in the 4th century and created the city of Nikaia. The park gives wonderful views of the sea. The best vies are found at the highest point where Friedrich Nietzsche spent much of his time.

For dinner, consider cooking at your apartment or try Le Séjour Restaurant & Café.

Nice, France

Day 8 – The French Riviera: Villefranche sur Mer or Antibes

Villefranche sur Mer

This is the perfect Cote-d’Azur beach town, except (as is true for any town) if there is a cruise ship calling. It’s a mere 15 minute train ride from Nice. It has a gorgeous little village on a perfect bay. While you may try all the Riviera beaches, I bet this will be your favorite. Cap Ferrat across the bay is where the ultra super rich have houses.

Spend the first part of your visit wandering around the town. Make sure to check out the yellow Chapelle de Saint Pierre des Pecheurs‘ interior painted by Cocteau. Then stroll along the promenade featuring many fish restaurants, and visit the 16th century Citadel Saint-Elme (there is not much to see inside however) and St Michael’s church. Consider making your way to Fort du Mont Alban, a 16th century fortress.

For lunch, enjoy L’Aparté or Les Garçons. 

In the afternoon, consider a quick sightseeing cruise. You could also grab a bus out to Cap Ferrat for a scenic walk, more scenic beaches, and visit to the Rothschild Estate Villa Ephrussi Palace and gardens. Have an afternoon glass of wine at Wine Pier before heading back to Nice on the train.

Antibes

Antibes has a great old town and beach just a 26 minute train ride from Nice. It also has a large harbor full of massive yachts that will boggle your mind (and may have you wondering how people can have this much money). This town was a favorite of artists and writers including Graham Green, Max Ernst, and Picasso. Starting from the old port, tour the old town. Head through the arch under the clock and make your way down to the bustling produce market in the market hall (Marché Provençal). Visit the old absinthe bar, take a peek into the Church of the Immaculate Conception (Antibes Cathedral), then visit the Picasso museum. Picasso lived in this building in Antibes in 1946 and many of the works in the museum are those he made when he lived here. After the museum continue down the promenade – the best beaches stretch south from town past Place Albert I. Enjoy a nice walk along the ramparts and sea wall and head to the Plage de la Gravette beach.

For lunch, try l’Arazur, La Ferme au Foie Gras, Les Vieux Murs. Later in the afternoon have an absinthe at the absinthe bar and imagine what it would have been like to sit in this town drinking with artists in the early 1900s.

Make your way back to Nice via train.

For dinner, again consider cooking at your apartment or try Chez Pipo (with locally famous pizza) or Les Pecheurs for some great seafood.

Antibes, France

Day 9 – Monaco (aka how the other half lives)

Today head to the country of Monaco (24 minute train ride from the Gare de Nice Ville).  This is where the rich, famous, super rich, and super famous come. It’s a tiny little country – about ¾ of a square mile. Monaco has for a long time been associated with glamour and exclusivity and is expensive. It hosts luxury hotels, millions of dollar yachts, and the annual Grand Prix (when the town sells out all rooms for many times the cost).

Monaco is not the French Riviera’s prettiest town, with high rises, concrete and glass structures, and super yachts. However, the rocky outcrop of Le Rocher in the south side of the port, has a charming old town and the royal palace.

Roam around the tidy old town (Monaco Ville/ Le Rocher). See palace square, prince’s palace, and the cathedral. Then make your way over to the Monte Carlo Casino, gawking at the luxury yachts in the harbor. For 10 euro you can tour the casino with an english brochure between 9 and noon. The gaming rooms open at 14:00 and well dressed (jacket and slacks / dresses) folks can then enter to lose their entire retirement savings. The front part is for the masses but the inner part is for baccarat and where the high rollers venture.

If you’re still feeling adventurous, continue down the coast via 10 minute train ride to Menton. Menton is the last French Riviera town before you hit Italy, and remains quiet and beautiful, and is one of the most attractive towns in the entire Cote d’Azur. Wander Menton’s old town which is filled with pastel mansions. Explore the Halles Municipales (a pretty covered food market).

Enjoy lunch at Le Bistrot des Jardins or Fleur de Sel. Or if you won big in Monaco,  splurge on 3 starred michelin restaurant Mirazur.

If you’re interested there is a good museum dedicated to the work of Cocteau. Before heading back to Nice via a 32 minute train ride, grab a final treat from Au Baiser du Mitron.

For dinner you can again cook. But since it’s your final night, consider an outing to L’Ane Rouge.

Monaco

Day 10

Train back to Paris on the TGV – you have that railpass after all (5h 7m train ride). If you don’t want to spend 5 hours on a train, you can also grab a flight from the Nice airport (2h flight to Paris).

Have More days?

If you have more time consider adding a day to explore the other beach town you missed (either Antibes or Villefranche sur Mer) and do some walks while there in Cap Ferrat or Cap Antibes.

You could also opt to take a bus to one of the more inland villages – the very popular St-Paul de Vence or Eze-le-Village. Both of these villages can get quite a few tourists so in high season go early or late (missing the tour bus crowds). St-Paul de Vence is a small medieval village that looks out to the sea. It’s a pretty village that at one point was residence to many famous artists including Cocteau, Léger, Matisse, and Chagalle, and now has many art galleries and a renowned modern art museum, the Fondation Maeght. Eze-le Village is a really beautiful town perched on a steep rocky peak. It has a great medieval village with stone houses and winding alleyways, castle ruins, and great costal views.

Or once back in Paris, consider adding on a few days to see the city. Take a look at our Paris itinerary for more ideas.

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