We cannot recommend Jadranka Suster and her tour enough. She lived in Sarajevo before the war and through the war and along with showing us all of the major sites had fantastic anecdotes to tell (including teaching school to children in basements during the Siege of Sarajevo). While we drove, she sat in the passenger seat and took us to all the must-see sites in and out of town including the Ottoman part of Old Town, the Hapsburg part of Old Town, Sniper Alley (from car), Sarajevo War Tunnel Museum, the old Olympic Bobsled course, viewpoint from the White Bastion fortress, Vrelo Bosnewith with the spring the Bosnia river, Roman bridge, and Illidza spa. If she is not available, check out Tours By Locals for other tour guides.