Vietnam and Thailand

Thailand | Vietnam

Vietnam and Thailand

This trip will take to you some of the highlights in two fantastic southeast Asian countries. You’ll see the temples, palaces, and markets of Bangkok, bask on the beaches of Phuket, and dive in Thailand’s stunningly clear tropical waters. In Vietnam, you’ll cruise the Mekong, learn about Vietnam War history, and see Ho Chi Minh City. Then you’ll fly north to Hanoi to see the beautiful Ninh Binh region, Ha Long Bay, and the mountains of Mai Chau.

While we think this trip is great, there’s far more to see in Vietnam and Thailand than you can cover in three weeks. You won’t see the north of Thailand, including its famous wildlife sanctuaries and the misty mountains of Chiang Mai. You’ll be hurried in central Vietnam as well. You might want to split this into two trips; check out our other itineraries for ideas.

Length: 21 Days

Transportation: Planes, public transit, taxis, hired cars

Best Guide Book: Rough Guides Thailand, Lonely Planet Bangkok

Day 1 – Bangkok

Day 2 – Bangkok

Day 3 – Chatuchak and Fly to Phuket

Days 4 – Phuket

Days 5 – Phuket

Day 6 – SCUBA Dive

Day 7 – Phang Nga Tour

Day 8 – Ho Chi Minh City

Day 9 – Mekong Cruise

Day 10 – Vietnam War History

Day 11 – Hoi An

Day 12 – Hue

Day 13 – Hanoi

Day 14 – Hoa Lu & Tam Coc

Days 15-17 – Ha Long Bay

  • Leave anything you don’t need at your hotel
  • We recommend the three-day Off the Beaten Track in Ha Long Bay tour offered by Buffalo Tours
  • Return to your hotel in Hanoi
  • * Note, you can cut a day off of your trip here by opting for a 2 day trip to Halong Bay instead (details below)

Days 18-19 – Cycling in the Mountains

Day 20 – Return Home

  • Fly home from Hanoi

Detailed Itinerary

Days 1-3: Bangkok

When you arrive in Bangkok, take a taxi or uber to your hotel. Though a few people will try to offer you a ride, it should be easy to locate the official taxi kiosk, get an assignment slip, and find a licensed cab.

Our Lonely Planet guide to the city indicated that taxi drivers often try to negotiate a flat fee that’s about 3 times the meter price, but that simply saying you want them to turn on the meter should rectify the situation. That was not our experience, with the exception of the taxi we took from the airport. Cab drivers in Bangkok will use every reason they can think of (“The traffic is bad” or “that’s really far outside the city, so it’ll be hard for me to find another fare”) to try and suck you into paying a rate that’s much higher than the meter fare. The only way we found to make them turn on the meter: threaten to leave the car and find another ride.

In terms of lodging you have some options. You can either stay right around the temples (they’re clustered) or staying near Lumphini Park is a nice (and quieter) alternative. Look at 1905 Heritage Corner and Bangkok Publishing Residence to be near the temples. Look at AriyasomVilla, Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel, and Cabochon Hotel Bangkok to be nearer to the park. We stayed near the park at the Courtyard Bangkok and found it very comfortable, but not a terribly interesting hotel.

We always assume you arrive morning/mid-morning so adjust your schedule accordingly. If you only have an afternoon, skip the Jim Thompson House and Central World and go straight to Lumphini Park. If, however, you have most of a day, start by visiting the Jim Thompson House, the home of an American big-wig in the silk industry in the middle of the 19th century. The home is also made up of traditional teak houses from Ayutthaya. Afterwards make your way to Central World, a gigantic Thai department store. Then head to Lumphini Park (สวนลุมพินี). Basically Bangkok’s central park, it’s a lush green area with lovely paths and monitor lizards.

Next head for cocktails with a view. Set sail on a Chao Phraya River Cruise. While you can take a cruise any time during the day, we think it’s particularly lovely at night as the sun sets on the temples. For dinner head to Supanniga Eating Room, Nahm, Err, Bo.Ian, or Eat Me Restaurant.

A monitor in Lumphini Park
A monitor in Lumphini Park

The next day is your opportunity to see the main sites in Bangkok. 

Grab a ride to the Grand Palace Bangkok and spend a while exploring the various structures in the palace including Wat Phra Kaew which contians the Emerald Buddha. Leave the palace and walk in a big loop up Maha Rat Road, then turn right in front of Thammasat University, cross Sanam Luang (the royal field), and then turn right again on Ratchadamnoen Road. Follow the road back down past the far side of the Grand Palace complex to Wat Pho. Be sure to see the Reclining Buddha, explore the other structures on the complex, and get a massage at the Thai massage school.

The Grand Palace complex
The Grand Palace complex

Grab a scenic lunch at Arun Residence‘s patio, a hotel overlooking the river. After lunch, take a ferry across the river to Wat Arun and climb up the structure if it’s open.

Grab a scenic lunch at Arun Residence‘s patio, a hotel overlooking the river. After lunch, take a ferry across the river to Wat Arun and climb up the structure if it’s open.

Once you return head to Pak Khlong Talat, Bangkok’s flower market. It’s actually a 24 hour a day flower market. Enjoy wandering along Chakkaraphet Road as flower vendors create temple garlands.

Tonight is the chance to head to Chinatown. Here you’ll get the chance to enjoy shops, street food, and temples. It’s actually one of the largest Chinatowns in the world. If you need a pick me up grab coffee at Eiah Sae, a joint that’s been operated by the same family since 1927. Most of the action is on Yaowarat Road, so stop by anywhere that looks enticing to eat. Or make your way to Tang Jai Yoo or Guay Jub Ouan Pochana for dinner before returning to your lodgings.

The next morning you have a choice. If it’s a weekend, go visit Chatuchak Weekend Market, the largest market in the country and a fascinating cultural experience. The market is only open on Saturdays and Sundays, so you may want to rearrange your time in Bangkok to be sure you can see it. However if this can’t work out (or if you have extra time) head to Bang Kachao, considered the “green lungs” of Bangkok, it’s a lush island with temples, paths, and greenery.

In the afternoon or early evening, catch a flight to Phuket (about 1.5 hours).

For lodging we had an incredible experience at the JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa, an all-inclusive resort on the beautiful private Mai Khao beach. It’s the only hotel on this beach which makes it feel extremely private. However, while amazing, the one downside is it’s far from Phuket Town (about 40 minutes) which is where most tours start from. If you book directly (like we did), the tour company will probably charge you an extra flat fee (around $40-$50) for transportation to and from the hotel. Other options much closer to Phuket Town include Anatara Layan Phuket Resort, Andaman White Beach Resort, Dusit Thani Laguna Phuket, and The Slate Phuket. And if you’re really looking for a deal look at Serenity Resort & Residences Phuket.

Dine at your lodgings.

Days 4: Phuket Beaches

Today you can choose from enjoying your resort and the beaches nearby, or embarking on a 3 day SCUBA certification program. Or if you’re an avid diver already, spend the next 3 days diving off of Phuket. If you want to get certified, we highly recommend taking a course from Scuba Diving Phuket. If you don’t want to do that much diving, go on a one-day course with a guide which we’ll recommend on day 6.

Don’t miss out on a Thai massage. Many resorts have thai massages on the beach (costing about $12-14). They’re not necessarily what you think of in terms of a massage (it’s in a hot tent), however you’ll leave feeling great. Thai Carnation near downtown Phuket also offers very reasonable and great massages.

Have cocktails overlooking the beach at sunset and a nice dinner at your resort.

Days 5: Old Town Phuket and Elephant Sanctuary

If you just want to relax in the morning and enjoy the pools and beaches do that. If however, you’re feeling more adventurous, head to Phuket Old Town. You’ll see brightly colored Sino-Portugese shops and houses, old European mansions, and banyans shading the streets. It also has fantastic street food. In the morning head to Kaset Market on Thavornwogwong Rd, a morning food market with excellent options.

In the afternoon head to Phuket Elephant Sanctuary or Treetops Elephant Reserve. A few things to mention: first, you’ll have to book weeks in advance. Second, not all elephant sanctuaries are the same. Many exploit elephants despite being “sanctuaries”. These two do not. They are certified sanctuaries. Never pick one that lets you ride or swim with elephants. The two aforementioned are fantastic. You’ll get to walk among them, enjoy them, and learn more about conservation. And you don’t even have to go to Chiang Mai to do so!

Take a late afternoon dip in the pool, watch the sunset, and again have dinner at your resort.

Days 6: SCUBA Dive

If you aren’t doing a three day course, absolutely take today to SCUBA. We loved the company Super Divers and Scuba Diving Phuket. You’ll get some amazing dives and they teach you quickly. The fish and other sea life are incredible. Popular areas include off Phi Phi Island, Racha Noi and Yai, and a ship wreck.

Spend the rest of your day enjoying the beach and pools at your resort.

Day 7: Phang Nga

Spend the next day exploring Phang Nga and its surrounds. If we went again we’d go with  John Gray’s Sea Canoe, a sustainable company which gives you a lot of time to paddle around the islands and through caves. However, many tour companies will take you to similar sites. Depending which you choose you may see James Bond Island, where a scene from The Man with the Golden Gun was filmed; explore the caves and go kayaking at Koh Hong; swim near beautiful beaches; or see Koh Yao Noi, a stunning island east of Phuket.

No matter which tour you choose, the karst formations in the water are spectacular, the beaches are white and silky, and the water is bafflingly turquoise. And while you’re in Phuket you can’t possibly pass up a day on the water!

Phang Nga Bay
Phang Nga Bay

This is a long day so why not grab dinner near where you’ll disembark. Head to one of Phuket’s most popular and elegant restaurants, Suay or Blue Elephant, or a cozier option of Raya.

Days 8-10: Ho Chi Minh City

Leave Phuket and fly to Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, which will take about two hours.

In terms of lodging, we loved the Renaissance Riverside Hotel Saigon. Other options you can consider include The Alcove Library Hotel, Hôtel des Arts Saigon, Grand Hotel Saigon, and The Caravelle Hotel. Aim for an afternoon free walking tour of the city. You can ask your guide to take you to the sights that interest you the most, but some of the highlights include Notre Dame Cathedral of Saigon, the post office, the opera house, the Hồ Chí Minh City Museum of Fine Arts, and the interior of Ben Thanh Market. After your tour if you still have time before dinner pop into some shops. Ho Chi Minh has exploded in the arts and decor scene. Check out some ideas of stops here.

Grab dinner at one of Ho Chi Minh’s many restaurants. Some notable options include Mandarin, Pho Pasteur, Quan An Ngon, Temple Club, Cuc Gach Quan, May Restaurant, Skewers, and Secret House.

Get up the next morning, and your guide will pick you up for your cruise on the Mekong River. We highly recommend the Mekong Cruise to Ben Tre with Mango Cruises. The tour avoids tourist destinations and immerses you in the local culture. Apart from floating the river, you’ll see a coconut factory, a brick factory, and a rice paper factory (by factory we really mean hut or house where the product is made). You’ll also bike through the jungle and get a delicious lunch (not to mention plenty of fresh fruit on the boat).

Grab drinks at The Deck or Shri when you get back to Ho Chi Minh and grab dinner at one of the aforementioned restaurants.

The Mekong River
The Mekong River

The next day is your opportunity to explore the history of the Vietnam War. You can try to do this on your own, but we highly recommend booking a tour. We went through Handspan Travel, and they did a great job. Regardless of how you arrange things, you should be sure to see the Cu Chi Tunnels, Independence Palace, and War Remnants Museum. Grab lunch in between at Viet Village. Return to your hotel after a busy day of sightseeing and grab some dinner. If you’re up for it, go check out the Ben Thanh Market (Chợ Bến Thành) at night.

Day 11 – Hoi An and Da Nang

Fly into Da Nang (1h20 flight). It’s located about 45 min away from Hoi An where we recommend you stay. Da Nang is a quickly developing city whereas Hoi An is a charming town set along rice paddies. You could stay in Da Nang instead and make day trips to Hoi An. If you do this, at least consider the InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort (it’s pretty remarkable, sells out fast, and also extremely expensive).

The best way to get to Hoi An is either by a car or bus. If you choose the car route you can either hail a taxi at the airport or talk to your hotel about arranging a driver to meet you. There is also a direct bus, Bus #1 which will take you to Hoi An for a lot cheaper (though it takes a bit longer). Your choice.

Once you’re in Hoi An drop your stuff at your lodging. Again, you have a few options. If you want to be close to town look at Vinh Hung Heritage Hotel, Anantara Hoi An Resort, and Hoi An Central Boutique Hotel & Spa. If you want to be on the beach, consider Victoria Hoi An Resort which offers a free shuttle to down town Hoi An. Another quieter option is Hoi An Ancient House Village Resort & Spa which also provides a shuttle. The way to get around is via bike, and all hotels will offer you a bike rental for a few hours or a day – take them up on it.

Hoi An is simply delightful. It was once a major port and has beautiful architecture set right against a river. It’s also car-free making it incredibly safe and enjoyable to wander.

Start your day by strolling through downtown Hoi An. First grab lunch at the Hoi An Central Market. Look for the food hall for lunch.

After eating and perusing, continue onto Phuc Kien Assembly Hall. The first structure was built in 1690 as a place for Hoi An’s Fujian-born community to gather. It was later converted into a temple dedicated to Thien Hau, or the goddess of the sea. Continue on to Tan Ky house. Continue onto the picturesque Japanese covered bridge, painted pink, with a pagoda roof. Note the two dogs and two monkeys standing guard.

Hoi An is famous for its silk. Most of the time you can get a piece (or outfit) in 12-24 hours. The silk trade itself was started by Chinese and Japanese traders long ago and now there are over 200 competitive shops in Hoi An. Browse a catalogue for what you’re looking for, the fabric, and come back the next day for your package. You can check out Thang Loi Silk shop which offers tours on silk as well as merchandise.

Vietnam is famous for its coffee and Hoi An offers up some good options. Take a coffee break at Cong Caphe or Mia Coffee.

Grab a bike from your hotel and spend the later afternoon cycling out past rice paddies to An Bang beach with its beautiful white sand.

For dinner in town head to Co Mai, Nu Eatery, Ba Buoi, Mai Fish, Mango Mango, or Miss Ly.

After dinner you can head to Hoi An’s Main Night Market to enjoy the hubub and people watch. Head for after dinner drinks to Brother’s Cafe, Shamrock Irish Pub (with local beer on draft), or Tadioto.

Day 12 – Hue

The next day, we recommend you get an early start because you have a 2h41 drive in front of you and a day tour of Hue. Try to arrive by mid-morning and pick up a tour of the Unesco World Heritage Imperial city and Citadel. We recommend a guide. You have a few options: Buffalo Tours, Handspan, Tours by Locals, or Footprint. We strongly recommend tailoring the day to what you’re interested in, as well as your timing may be off from their “standard tours”. These companies will work with you (they did with us). Given the option, have them help you set up a riverboat ride or bicycle down the scenic Perfume River for the late afternoon/early evening.

Grab dinner at Hanh Restaurant, Madam Thu, and Les Jardins de la Carambole.

For lodging, head to La Residence Hotel & Spa Hue. It’s a stunning hotel and you won’t want to leave it.

Day 13 – Hanoi

Leave Hue and fly to Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, which will take about 1h15. Grab a taxi from the airport (or get your hotel to arrange a driver to meet you).

The number one hotel in Hanoi (and where we would stay next time) is the Sofitel Metropole Hotel. That being said, it is a splurge. In general try and stay in the French quarter or on the west side of the lake. We’d actually recommend not staying in the Old Quarter (it’s louder, dirtier, and just all-in-all not an ideal location for a hotel). Some good options include Zephyr Hotel, The Chi Boutique Hotel, Hotel de L’Opera Hanoi, and Apricot Hotel. We stayed at the JW Marriott Hotel Hanoi, which is beautiful and amazing but a far way out of the city center. This was beneficial for day trips but a bummer to get downtown and put a stop on enjoying wandering around at night.

Today is your opportunity to explore Hanoi. Hanoi is actually a lovely city in the heart of the Red River Delta. It’s full of historical and spiritual sites. Enjoy the broad tree-lined boulevards, lakes, villas, and temples and basque in the Indo-Chinese and French influences. It’s also a great launch point for the nearby region. We’ll take you to our favorite spots (before we went we narrowed it to these to get the best overall variety of Vietnam) but there are a ton more sites you can head to as well.

Begin in the mid-morning by taking a taxi to Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, one of the odder sites we’ve visited. Ho Chi Minh was a modest man who asked that he be cremated and his ashes spread across Vietnam as a gesture of national unity. Instead he was embalmed, and his body remains on display to the public. The grounds of the mausoleum also house other attractions, including a presidential palace, Ho’s house, a museum, and One-Pillar Pagoda.

When you’ve finished with the mausoleum, walk about 20 minutes (or take a cab) to the beautiful Temple of Literature (Văn Miếu Quốc Tử Giám). It’s a gorgeous and tranquil spot in the middle of a bustling city with some fascinating history; expect to spend some time walking the grounds. Then take a cab to the French Quarter. Consider booking a guide with Hanoi Free Walking Tours (you can do a combo with the Old Quarter). The French Quarter, which has broad streets lined with beautiful colonial-era buildings, is home to the city’s famous opera house and Presidential Palace. Make a stop at Fanny’s Ice Cream before continuing on. Walk along the shores of Hoàn Kiếm Lake, and the see Ngoc Son Temple set on an island in the lake. Grab drinks Thủy Tạ Cafe if you want a refreshing break with great views of the lake (the service and food can be very hit-or-miss, though, so we don’t recommend eating there).

The Temple of Literature
The Temple of Literature

Explore the Old Quarter, with its warrens of narrow streets crowded by cars, motor scooters, and pedestrians. One attraction in the Old Quarter is cheap beer; several cafes offer beer for under a dollar, with some offering glasses for as little as about 25 cents. While you might want to sample the 25 cent beer just to say you did, we found that beer in the 75 cent range was better quality and served in larger portions. Our favorite spot for beers in the Old Quarter was Bia Khanh Thuy.

This is also another (and longer) opportunity to do some silk shopping if you want something made (you probably didn’t have enough time in Hoi An). Hanoi is world famous for its silk products, but silk shopping in Hanoi can be tricky. Shops offer custom-made suits for as little as about $150, and some will offer to make them in 12 hours. Those tend to be pretty low quality, and they’re often said to get measurements wrong. We picked a shop called Silk & Silk because it had a very handsome gray suit in the window. The shopkeeper spoke excellent English. She told us a suit that cost $225, and typically takes three days to make. Because they weren’t very busy, though, they told me they could have the suit ready in a day and a half. They did, and the suit looked and fit great (it’s still one of my favorites).

For dinner, if you’re in the mood for something very low-key, head to Gecko Restaurant. Other good options include Cha Ca La Vong, Com Chay Nang Tam, Koto, Red Bean Restaurant, Home Hanoi, Gecko Restaurant, Chim Sáo, and Ưu Đàm Chay.

Day 14: Hoa Lu and Tam Coc

Spend the day on a tour of the Ninh Binh area. We booked through Handspan Travel again, and once again they impressed us. You’ll see Hoa Lu ( Cố đô Hoa Lư), Vietnam’s idyllic historic capital, which is nestled among beautiful mountains. Then you’ll drive to Tam Coc, where you’ll ride a paddle boat through a river that bisects breathtaking territory and passes through several limestone caves. Finally, you’ll visit the stunning Bich Dong Pagoda, a complex of three pagodas built on a gorgeous mountain with incredible views of the surrounding area.

Hoa Lư
Hoa Lư

Days 15-17: Ha Long Bay

Ha Long Bay is one of the wonders of the world. It’s filled with sheer limestone towers that ascend impossibly from the bay’s waters. Many are topped with tropical rain forest. You’ll see Amazing Cave, a massive cave complex, and Ti Top Island, one of the bay’s most famous limestone pillars. It’s possible to see the bay on a day trip from Hanoi (we did, with Handspan Travel, and  they did a great job working to customize the trip so we got see most of the important sights), but that involves a lot of driving, and you won’t see as much of the bay as you will on an overnight cruise.

Ha Long Bay
Ha Long Bay

If you have the time and the cash, we think you should try a three day “Off the Beaten Track” tour with Buffalo Tours. For a shorter and less expensive option, Handspan and Footprint offer an overnight cruise that should take you to most of the bay’s most beautiful spots. After your cruise, your tour company will return you to your hotel in Hanoi.

Stay at the same place that night before heading back out the next day to the mountains.

Days 18-19: The Mountains of Mai Chau

Mai Chau is a beautiful town in the mountains southwest of Hanoi. The town is surrounded by vibrant green valleys and rice paddies. It’s an opportunity to explore a less-traveled part of Vietnam, and we highly recommend you visit from Hanoi. Like Ha Long Bay, Mai Chau can be done in a day trip (we recommend booking your trip through Footprint), but it’s better to do an overnight trip if you can (the drive from Hanoi is about 3.5 hours each way). Some good options for overnight trips are Footprint’s two-day cycling trip or Handspan’s less active overnight trip. After your visit to the mountains, your tour company will bring you back to your lodgings in Hanoi to enjoy your last night in Vietnam.

Mai Chau
Mai Chau

Day 19: Fly Home

Get up the next day and fly home; this is the end of your adventure in southeast Asia.

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