Sicily in Two Weeks

Italy | Sicily

Sicily in Two Weeks

Most tourists skip Sicily, instead heading to Rome, Florence, and the Amalfi Coast. But Sicily offers stunning and impressive antiquities, unique and delicious food, friendly people, turquoise water, and a break from the masses of tourists that mob mainland Italy during the summer. While Sicily offers a grittier Italian experience, it’s a fantastic place for an off-the-beaten path vacation. This two week itinerary will take you to many of Sicily’s most important sights, though it misses most of the southwestern part of the island. You can also consider combining Sicily with a few days in Rome or Naples on either end.

Transportation: Rental car

Length: 12 Days

Best guide books: Rick Steves

Day 1 – Palermo

Day 2 – Monreale and Cefalu

Day 3 – Cefalu and Sicily’s Hill Towns

Day 4 – Agrigento

Day 5 – Morgantina and Villa Romana del Casale

Day 6 – Syracuse

Day 7 – Noto and Beaches

Day 8 – Syracuse Archaeological Sites

Day 9 – Syracuse to Taormina

Day 10 – Mount Etna Adventure

Day 11 – Taormina Beaches (or Aeolian Islands)

  • If you stay in Taormina:
  • We don’t think the Aeolian Islands are worth the trip, but this is your day to go if you want to, more described below
  • Dinner at Hotel Villa Ducale Ristorante
  • Overnight in Taormina (night 3/3)

Day 12 – Fly Home

  • Drive to Catania
  • Fly home, or continue your adventure elsewhere in Italy

Detailed Itinerary

Day 1 – Palermo

Welcome to Sicily! We recommend that you aim to arrive in the early morning (or early evening the previous day) to enjoy a full day in Palermo.

Drive to Palermo from the airport (approximately 40m drive). You have a few options for getting into the city: cab, hotel pickup, or rental car. You’ll need a rental car for the rest of the trip but parking in Palermo can be very difficult so you could opt to rent the car from the city instead of the airport. Likewise, most hotels offer parking for a fee which might be easier.

Palermo has changed a lot in the past few decades. Until the mid 1990s it was the epicenter of mafia violence. Since that time it has blossomed into a beautiful city with great restaurants, lovely architecture, friendly people and is a thoroughly enjoyable place to spend at least one very full day.

Once you drop off your luggage at your accommodations or in the morning, head to the bustling Ballaro market to enjoy the lively pace and grab street food for a lingering lunch.

In the afternoon take a guided tour of Palermo. We thoroughly enjoyed our tour, but it didn’t cover some of the main sights, so we list some other options here as well. Enjoy learning about Palermo’s history, art, and architecture as you wind through the lively and colorful streets. See the Teatro Massimo (Palermo’s historic opera house and the largest theatre in Italy), Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio, Quattro Canti, Piazza Pretoria, Norman churches of San Cataldo and La Martorana, and Palermo’s cathedral. Learn about the history of the city, including the Mafia’s influence, which has only recently faded.

If your tour doesn’t take you into Chiesa di Santa Caterina d’Alessandria church, make sure you take the time to stop in. This church was recently reopened after a decades-long renovation of its almost overwhelmingly ornate interior. There’s a great view from the newly accessible roof, and be sure to stop by I Segreti del Chiostro, a small pasticceria that sells delicious old-fashioned sweets (including delicious cannolis) made by the nuns.

After your tour grab a pre-dinner gelato at Cappadonia Gelati. Have a pre-dinner drink on the nearby Piazza Bologni square and enjoy the Sicilian appertivo hour of light appetizers and people watching. Some good options include Enoteca Picone, a wine shop and bar; Vinoveritas, which has lovely outdoor patio, huge selection of Sicilian wines, and a small plate antipasti menu; and Ristorante Ferro, a 15-year-old restaurant in piazza Sant’Onofrio is run by three sisters.

Enjoy dinner at Il Maestro del Brodo (popular with locals, we recommend their fish-based dishes and seafood in general), Trattoria Corona (restaurant a family has run for 3 generations), or Bissot Bistro. Consider a nightcap at Barrel 44, a neat bar offering, among other options, several Sicilian craft beers.

Return to your lodgings; we stayed at the Hotel Plaza Opéra, which was nice and in a convenient location but nothing special. Another good option is Butera 28, rental apartments in a charming palazzo. The airy, thoughtfully renovated rooms have colorful tile floors, antique furniture, and breezy terraces that look out over the sea.

Day 2 – Palermo, Monreale and Cefalu

The next morning, cap off your time in Palermo by visiting the Norman Palace. The palace itself is impressive, and it contains an interesting museum, but the real highlight is the Cappella Palatina, a Norman chapel dating to the twelfth century that features beautiful mosaics and a spectacular muqarnas ceiling. Then head off to Monreale (30m drive). The Cathedral of Monreale is one of the finest examples of Norman architecture in Italy. It boasts the largest concentration of medieval mosaics, which evidence the Norman kings’ syncretism, drawing from both Byzantine and Western artistic traditions. Adjoining the cathedral’s south side is a beautiful cloister with ogival arches and 108 pairs of columns with impressive decorated capitals. While we found Monreale impressive—and we think both the cloister and the terraces are worth visiting—we found we preferred the charming intimacy of the Cappella Palatina.

Ceiling of the Cappella Palatina
Ceiling of the Cappella Palatina

Before you leave Monreale, be sure to stop for lunch at Bricco E Bacco Di Sorrentino Giovanni, seriously. We had one of the best meals we’ve had while traveling there; skip the dishes listed at the front of the menu and order a cut of meat from those listed by kilogram at the back.

After lunch, head off to Cefalù (1h drive). Spend your afternoon exploring Cefalù’s sandy beaches, winding streets, archaeological treasures, and interesting shops. Be sure to see the medieval laundry and the cathedral (thought it’s not nearly as impressive as Monreale’s). Driving and parking in Cefalù’s narrow streets can be challenging and stressful, so we recommend you head straight to Parcheggio – Lungomare Giuseppe Giardina, a large outdoor parking lot where you can park for €6 for the day (there’s also hourly street parking nearby along Lungomare Guiseppe Giardina if you won’t be staying that long). As you wander the streets of Cefalù, consider grabbing happy hour drinks at Kioskito Bistrot. The drinks and food aren’t anything special, but the large deck overlooking the water is a very pleasant place to spend some time.

Now it’s time to head to your lodgings for the next few nights. We loved Relais Santa Anastasia, a gorgeous winery and old monastery in the hills about a twenty minute drive outside of Cefalù with a delicious restaurant on-site where you can grab dinner if you don’t want to eat in town. However, if you prefer to be in the center of things, you can stay in Cefalù, and consider eating dinner at Ristorante Le Chat Noir or Lo Scoglio Ubriaco.

Day 3 – Cefalu and Castelbuono

The next morning, hike Rocca di Cefalù, the massive rock formation looming above the town. There’s a small fee for the hike, which you’ll pay at a small pay station at the bottom. On the 30-45 minute walk to the top, you’ll see Greek, Byzantine, and Norman ruins. At the summit you’ll be rewarded with stunning views in all directions. When you’ve returned to Cefalù’s city center, get some lunch at Antica Porta Terra.

The view from Rocca di Cefalù
The view from Rocca di Cefalù

In the afternoon, you have a couple of options. You can spend the afternoon relaxing on the beaches of Cefalù or around your hotel. Or you can drive to the nearby hill towns of Pollina and Castelbuono. The hill towns as a whole are mostly absent of tourists. They will give you a nice idea of what life in inland Sicily is like. If you’re going to skip one, skip Pollina. It’s tiny, but its summit commands an incredible view of the ocean and surrounding hills. The Museo Della Manna is one of the odder attractions we’ve ever visited. Castelbuono is larger, and its Museo Civico di Castelbuono is worth a visit if you go, but not worth the drive by itself. Pick up a local panettone at Pasticceria Fiasconaro. Grab pre-dinner drinks and gelato at Naselli, on Castelbuono’s Piazza Margherita and then eat at nearby Nangalarruni (or if you can’t get in, try La Lanterna) before returning to Relais Santa Anastasia or Cefalù for the night.

Day 4 – Agrigento

In the morning, you’ll start the 2+ hour drive to Agrigento on Sicily’s southern coast. We recommend hiring a guide for the day who can show you around Agrigento’s remarkable archaeological museum, Museo Archeologico Regionale Pietro Griffo, as well as the Valley of the Temples. The valley of the temples is one of the most impressive archaeological sites we’ve visited; the undoubted highlight is Concordia, the most complete Greek temple outside of Greece and the second most complete anywhere.

Concordia
Concordia

Some options for lunch and dinner include Il Pescatore, Osteria Expanificio, and Il Granaio di Ibla. We drove back to Relais Santa Anastasia for the night, but that was a mistake. You should stay in Agrigento instead (unless you have a strong preference to move hotels less frequently) and save yourself the drive, as tomorrow will also involve a lot of driving.

Day 5 – Morgantina and Villa Romana del Casale

Check out of your accommodations in the morning and drive from Syracuse (1h35 drive) to Sito Archeologico di Morgantina, an active site where archaeologists are still excavating an ancient Greek city. It’s definitely worth hiring a guide to show you around, as there’s not much information provided. You unfortunately can’t visit the city center (which is still an active dig), but you can get a good view and wander through ruins of some of the outlying homes.

Next, drive to nearby Aidone, where you’ll visit the Museo Archeologico di Aidone, an archaeological museum containing a number of remarkable artifacts from Morgantina, including a truly stunning (and rare) Hades head. Get lunch in Aidone at La Piazzetta del Museo or Antichi Apori.

The Hades head at Adione

After lunch, drive about half an hour more to Villa Romana del Casale. We didn’t know what to expect from this Roman villa perched in the hills of Sicily, and we were absolutely blown away. Every room of the sprawling mansion is decorated with an intricate mosaic floor, most of which are very well-preserved. We recommend staying with your guide from Morgantina, though there are placards explaining the significance of many of the floors at Villa Romana del Casale.

One of the mosaic floors at Villa Romana del Casale
One of the mosaic floors at Villa Romana del Casale

Once you’ve seen the villa, drive on to Syracuse (2h drive). We stayed at the lovely Algilà Ortigia Charme Hotel, which we highly recommend (though it’s expensive). There are other good options in Syracuse, but absolutely be sure to stay in Ortigia, Syracuse’s beautiful old town that’s overflowing with charming shops and restaurants. We ate dinner at the hotel, which has a great restaurant. Another good option is Trattoria O’scina. If you want a more casual option, consider Sicily Pizzeria & Lounge Bar and nearby Il Cucchiaino for a gelato dessert.

Day 6 – Siracusa

Today is your opportunity to explore Syracuse. We recommend mostly sticking to Ortigia, with its maze of great shops, restaurants, history, and ocean views. Be sure to wander by the Temple of Apollo and grab a seltz (sparkly salty drink; we recommend the lemon with granita) from one of the stands. Walk the Via del Mercato, where a number of stalls sell tourist trinkets, then turn left and walk up the Via Emmanuele de Benedictis, the site of Syracuse’s genuine street market (much of it only operates on weekday mornings). Consider stopping by Borderi Gli Artisti, the best spot in Syracuse for Sicilian street food. Their sandwiches are great, and so are the charcuterie platters.

Stroll down the Via Cavour to see some of Syracuse’s most interesting shops. When you reach the Piazza Duomo, duck inside the Cathedral of Syracuse. Consider getting a delicious pizza lunch at Pizzeria Schiticchio. At Ortigia’s southern tip lies Castello Maniace, the island’s historic fortress. It’s worth the entry fee: the historical exhibits aren’t fantastic, but it’s fun to explore and offers good views of the surrounding area.

Castello Maniace
Castello Maniace

Also be sure to stop by Galleria Bellomo, a unique artisan shop. The artist makes papyrus from local plants and does beautiful paintings on the papyrus sheets. Then walk around the corner to nearby Fonte Arethusa , a fountain containing a number of papyrus plants that’s also near a terrace overlooking Syracuse and the harbor.

Continue your stroll back towards the northern side of the island along the Foro Vittorio Emanuele II. It’s packed with a number of bars blaring pop music and serving substandard drinks, but we nonetheless had a good time at Marina Cafe, sipping a cocktail and watching the sunset over the harbor. Then walk over to Le Vin de l’Assassin Bistrot or Trattoria O’scina for dinner, get some dessert at Gelateria Fiordilatte, and watch the nighttime crowds on the Piazza Duomo.

Day 7 – Noto and Beaches

Your two activities for today are exploring the beautiful town of Noto and relaxing on the beach. You can choose one for the morning and the other for the afternoon, but beware that some of Noto’s attractions begin to close around 5 pm so it might be wise to do this first.

It’s about a thirty-five minute drive to Noto. Noto’s old town was totally destroyed by the earthquake 1693. Rather than rebuild, the inhabitants moved to a new area and Giovanni Battista Landolina, a wealthy landowner and intellectual, planned a charming baroque town on the hills above the Ionian sea. The town remains in remarkably good condition, with its stone streets and beautiful churches and palaces. We think it’s worth visiting Chiesa di San Domenico, Noto Cathedral, Nicolaci Palace (for views from the balconies and some intricately painted ceilings), Palazzo Castelluccio, and Teatro Comunale. You also must be sure to get gelato in town, as Noto is generally regarded to have Sicily’s (and possibly the world’s) best (experts disagree as to whether Caffè Sicilia or Caffè Costanzo claims the crown – though most people think its Caffe Sicilia – but if you want to try both, go ahead; they’re right around the corner from one another).

Grab lunch at Noto’s Ristorante Dammuso, Trattoria al Crocifisso, or Manna Noto.

When you’re headed to the beach, it’s about 22 minutes from Noto along the Vendicari Nature Reserve. We don’t think you actually need to visit the reserve, though it does feature a tower built by Peter of Aragon in the first half of the 15th century and the ruins of two fisheries and the Byzantine town of the Cittadella dei Maccari. We spent a few hours lounging at Agua Beach Resort. Renting an umbrella can be a little pricey, but it’s worth it for the shade, the gorgeous (and by Italian standards, clean) beach, and access to the reasonably priced bar and restaurant.

Agua Beach Resort
Agua Beach Resort

Grab dinner back in Syracuse at Macallè Sicilian Bistrot, Ristorante Porta Marina, or Regina Lucia if you want a really special meal.

Day 8 – Syracuse Archaeological Sites

Today you’ll explore Syracuse’s archaeological sites. We recommend hiring a guide for the day, and especially for the archaeological park; you’ll get much more out of the experience if you have someone with you to explain the sites and answer questions. Begin in the morning with the Parco Archeologico Neapolis, a sprawling archaeological park containing and ancient quarry, a Greek theater, a Roman amphitheater, and the ruins of a massive temple. Then walk or take a taxi over to the Museo Archeologico Regionale Paolo Orsi, a massive museum containing prehistoric, Greek, Roman, and early Christian artifacts. You don’t need a guide for the museum, but it’s so large that we appreciated having someone who could focus our attention on the highlights. Finally, walk over to the Catacombe di San Giovanni, early Christian catacombs buried under the city. The only way to see the catacombs is on a guided tour; you can either join one when you arrive or go with your own licensed guide. We recommend the latter, though it’s more expensive. The tour provided at the catacombs was unsatisfying and inefficient; the guide (understandably) spoke in both Italian and English, so it took twice as long as it should have. Additionally, there was little opportunity to ask questions.

After your day exploring Syracuse’s extensive history, treat yourself to some beers at Sikaru’ Beerstro. For dinner, options include L’Ancora, Osteria da Mariano, and Regina Lucia.

Day 9 – Taormina

Check out of your hotel and drive about an hour and a half north to the beautiful town of Taormina. Eat lunch or a snack at your hotel, and then begin exploring the town. Set in the steep hills overlooking the Ionian Sea to the east and Mount Etna to the southwest, Taormina is a gem of a city, though its old town can be quite touristy. Be sure to see the Teatro Antico di Taormina, a spectacular theater originally built by the Greeks and then rebuilt by the Romans that lies beneath a smoking Mount Etna, and the Giardini della Villa Comunale, Taormina’s communal gardens. Stroll down the Corso Umberto to see Taormina’s wonderful collection of shops, restaurants, and historic sites (including Teatro Odeon, Chiesa di Santa Caterina d’Alessandria, Naumachia di Taormina, the Piazza Duomo, and the Piazza IX Aprile). Taste some Sicilian wines at a cozy wine bar like Casamatta or Al Grappolo D’uva.

Taormina's Teatro Antico
Taormina’s Teatro Antico

You absolutely must get dinner at Osteria RossoDiVino, where we had one of the best meals of our lives (the pasta is great, but get it as an appetizer and order some fresh fish for your entree). You should generally try to get reservations while you’re in Taormina (ask your hotel concierge if you have trouble); the restaurants can get very crowded, especially during the busy tourist season. Get dessert at Gelatomania. Yes, there are a lot of gelato shops in town, but the quality varies, and we recommend this one. There are a number of charming hotels in town, but we had a fantastic stay at the Hotel Villa Carlotta Taormina. Stay within easy walking distance of the Taormina’s old town.

Day 10 – Mount Etna

This is your opportunity to hike Mount Etna. Avid hikers or volcano lovers will enjoy the experience, but this isn’t for everyone. The altitude you can reach will vary based on the amount of volcanic activity, and Mount Enta’s summit at 10,912 feet may cause some to experience altitude sickness. While the mountain offers some great views and an opportunity to see an active volcano, the actual walking can be hot, dusty, and monotonous.

A view from the slopes of Mount Etna
A view from the slopes of Mount Etna

In our opinion, the best way to do it if you want to get up close to Mount Etna is to split the day 50/50 with Mount Etna and wine tasting. Vineyards are scattered along the way up, getting rich nutrients from the lava.

Start by driving a little over an hour through windy roads to Mount Etna base camp, Rifugio Sapienza. Once you arrive, head up on a cable car (try and grab one of the first of the day). From the station part way up Etna, jump in a bus to get close to the summit. Again, unless you love hiking uphill it is not worth it to climb up in lieu of a bus. From the top station you can go with a guide on a walk up a nearby hill, or again, if you love mountain climbing and the weather permits, you can summit Etna. Even without the full climb you’ll get pretty views if the skies are clear, and you can get a sense of an active volcano. Ride back down.

Then head to the wineries on the way back. Pick a few from the list below, or be adventurous and do them all. We’d recommend is starting by driving along the slope of Etna to the town of Linguaglossa for lunch at Dai Pennisi (1 h drive). Start your wine tasting at Tenuta di Fessina (6 min drive). Next head to Passopisciaro (8 min drive), then Filippo Grasso (5 min drive). Finish at Tenuta delle Terre Nere Winery (2 min drive) before driving back to Taormina (1h drive).

If that combo doesn’t sound like your cup of tea, stay in Taormina and explore the town or relax on its beaches. Walk or take the cable car down to the beach beneath Taormina; the shore is rocky, but we still enjoyed lying out in the sun and swimming in the water, or you can rent an umbrella at one of the many beach resorts. For dinner, consider Trattoria Il Barcaiolo for delicious seafood or Pizzeria Villa Zuccaro.

Day 11 – Beach Day in Taormina

If you spent the day before hiking Mount Etna, spend today relaxing on the beaches of Taormina and exploring the town more fully. Start by walking up to Chiesa Madonna della Rocca and continue even higher (if your legs can stand it) to Castelmola which is an incredibly beautiful village situated high over Taormina offering views of Taormina, Mount Etna, and the sea. It’s small and touristy (because it’s so lovely) but fun to wander. Perhaps an easier way to get there is with your car, a local Interbus, or a hop-on-hop-off bus that leaves from Taormina (head ot the TI for more info). You’ll see the ruins of a Norman castle just above the square and the church of San Giorgio with a terrace behind it that gives great views. You can grab a drink at the top at Bar Turrisi (which hosts phallic themed decor), or if that’s not your thing head back down to Taormina and reward yourself with some exquisite granita from the Bam Bar (so good we went 3 times).

The cove below Taormina
The cove below Taormina

Another option is to visit the Aeolian Islands. A UNESCO heritage site, this chain of small islands off of Sicily’s northeastern coast is often described as stunningly beautiful. We found them to be pretty disappointing. The history is less interesting than much of what you’ve already seen, and the beaches (especially those on Vulcano) are dirty and actually not very pretty (and Vulcano’s stink of sulfur around the whole island). Not to mention that it’s about an hour and a half drive to the port where you’ll catch your boat, and about another hour on the boat to get to the islands. For a place that’s not as pretty as Taormina, we didn’t think it was worth it.

Get dinner in Taormina; we loved the food and views at Hotel Villa Ducale Ristorante.

Day 12 – Fly Home

Drive to Catania (about 40 minutes), where you can catch a flight home or to somewhere else in Europe to continue your adventure.

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