Spain and Portugal in Two Weeks

Portugal | Spain

Spain and Portugal in Two Weeks

Welcome to Spain and Portugal! Spain, protected by the Pyrenees, developed differently from the rest of Europe, embracing a unique history and culture. Spain was a Muslim country for more than 700 years and the Moorish influence lends a unique character to the country. Spain offers bright sunshine and beaches, whitewashed villages, massive cathedrals, rich culture, and great food.

With extra time add on our Barcelona itinerary.

Length: 16 days

Transportation: Rental Car

Best Guide Book: Rick Steves Spain

Day 1 – Madrid

Day 2 – Madrid

Day 3 – Holy Toledo!

Day 4 – Granada

  • Drive to Granada (3h38 drive)
  • Tour Granada (what you don’t see today do after the Alhambra tomorrow)
    • Albaicin (Arab Quarter)
    • Capilla Real
    • Catedral Santa Maria de la Encarnacion
    • Albayzin neighborhood
    • Granada Cathedral
    • Royal Chapel
  • Lodging – Mirador del Jazmin or Hotel Santa Isabella Real (night 1/2)

Day 5 – The Alhambra

  • Tour the Alhambra
    • Make sure to get tickets in advance and pick up in the morning 
  • See any site you did not see the previous day in Granada
  • Lodging—same place, (night 2/2)

Day 6 – Marbella and Ronda

  • Drive to Marbella and have lunch on beach and poke around the town (2h drive) 
  • Drive to Ronda (1h drive) 
  • Tour Ronda:
    • historic Bullring
    • church of Santa Maria la Mayor
    • gorge
    • new bridge
  • Lodging – Hotel San Gabriel (night 1/1)
  •  

Day 7 – The White Hill Towns

  • Drive through and tour the white towns (3h19m drive in total): 
    • Zahara, stop for a snack or lunch
    • Grazalema
    • Arcos de la Fronterra
  • Arrive Sevilla
  • Lodging – Hotel Alimar (night 1/3)

Day 8 – Sevilla

  • Sevilla walking tour
  • Visit the Cathedral de Sevilla
  • Tour the Palace (Real Alcazar)
  • Wander through the Parque de Maria Luisa
  • Explore the neighborhood of Bario Santa Cruz (old Jewish Quarter)
  • With more time you can see:
    • Hospital de la Caridad
    • Basilica de la Macarena
    • Bullfight Museum
    • Flamenco museum
  • After dinner, take in a Flamenco performance
  • Lodging—same place, (night 2/3)

Day 9 – Cordoba

  • Day trip to Cordoba (1h38m drive each way or take the train)
  • Visit the mosque/church (Mezquita)
  • Explore the town and grab lunch
  • Return to Sevilla and explore whatever you didn’t have time for the day before
  • Lodging—same place, (night 3/3)

Day 10 – Evora

  • Drive to Evora (3h 26m drive)
  • In Evora visit:
  • Have lunch in Evora
  • Drive to St Jerome Monastery/Belem and tour the monastery (1h28m drive)
  • Drive to Cascais (26m drive)
  • Wander around Cascais and enjoy the beach
  • Lodging – Pergola House (night 1/3)

Day 11 – Sintra

  • Day trip Sintra (19m drive each way or train)
  • Visit National Palace, Pena Palace, Moorish Castle
  • Lodging—same place, (night 2/3)

Day 12 – Lisbon

  • Day trip to Lisbon (33m drive, or consider easy train connection and avoid the hassle of parking) 
  • Walking tour with Lisbon Waker or Inside Lisbon or self stroll:
  • Lodging—same place, (night 3/3)

Day 13 – Salamanca via Obidos and Coimbra

Day 14 – Salamanca and Avila

 Day 15 – Segovia and El Esorial

  • Drive to Segovia (22m drive)
  • Explore Segovia: Roman Aqueduct, cathedral, castle
  • Drive to El Escorial (42m drive)
  • Explore El Escorial, a monastery and palace
  • Return to Parador de la Granja (49m drive)
  • Lodging—same place, (night 2/2)

Day 16 – Fly Home

  • Drive to Madrid airport (1h14m drive)
  • Drop off rental car
  • Fly home

Detailed Itinerary

Days 1 and 2 – Madrid

Welcome to Madrid, Spain’s vibrant capitol. Madrid is a large city (home to 3 million) but has a relatively easy to navigate center. If you arrive via the airport, make your way to your hotel. Cab costs a fixed 30 euro and expect to be stuck in traffic. The Expres Aeropuerto bus (5 euro) runs from all terminals to Atocha station – from there you can grab a taxi or metro to your hotel. If you will be renting a car in Spain (recommended), DO NOT pick it up yet – get it when you leave on the way out of town. You do not want a car in Madrid.

The center of action in Madrid is the Puerto del Sol. Consider staying at the lovely Hotel Europa right on the Plaza.

Puerto del Sol

Key sights to see (beyond wandering around) include the Plaza Mayor, Royal Palace, Prado, and Reina Sofia (for Picasso’s Guernica).

Guernica

If you arrived from the western hemisphere you may be a bit jet lagged and I’d put off the art museums until tomorrow and head down Calle mayor, detour down Calle de Postas to Plaza Mayor. If it’s around lunch time, grab a bite at the San Miguel Market.  Explore the Corpus Christi convent and town hall right nearby. Then continue on to the Royal Palace. Return via Carlos II then Calle de Arenal. You might consider a “free” walking tour to orient yourself.

Plaza Mayor

Since this is your first day you may be jet lagged so don’t overdo it. Dinner in Spain does not start till 21:00 at the earliest. Either nap and get up for dinner (which will seriously screw up your time zone acclimation) or find tapas and turn in early.

The next day, wander down to the Prado (13 minute walk from Puerto del Sol). and see this world class museum. After you have satiated yourself with El Greco and Velasquez wander 10 minutes to the Reina Sofia Museum and see Picasso’s amazing Guernica. Between museums or after take a break in the Botanical gardens/El Retiro park.

Day 3 – Holy Toledo!

Toledo

Cab to the airport (or take the metro) and find your way to your rental car. Set your GPS for your lodging (we suggest Hacienda del Cardenal) – where you can park and leave your car. From here head up into town. Toledo sits atop a hill in a bend of the Tajo River. It has a fantastic medieval atmosphere, the best cathedral in Spain (not the largest – that’s in Sevilla) – and is custom made for walking around. If tourist crowds get to you – just wait, they clear out at night and you’ll feel you have the city to yourself. Pull out a map and start your rambles. We’d suggest starting on the west end and seeing San Juan de los Reyes Monasterio (a Franciscan monastery and church), Sinagoga del Transito (Spain’s National Jewish museum), El Greco Museum, Santo Tome (chapel with El Greco’s most famous paining, The Burial of the Count of Orgaz), then back to the most famous Toledo site, Toledo Cathedral.

Toledo Cathedral
Toledo Cathedral

After that see the Alcazar (military Museum), then Plaza de Zocodover, then Santa Cruz museum.  Find yourself a place for a drink/tapas while waiting for dinner….

Day 4 – Granada

Unfortunately this is not a super interesting drive. The train trip takes forever and we are suggesting a car for flexibility and to be able to see the hill towns so you are stuck with a 3h38 drive from Toledo to Granada. We don’t recommend that you do the Alhambra today – save it for tomorrow. Instead visit sights of the lower town. At one time this was the grandest city in Spain. Take a stroll through the old town past the Alcaiceria market, Granada Cathedral, Royal Chapel, and up along the river. Either today or tomorrow wander up into the old moorish quarter, the Albayzin neighborhood.

We didn’t love where we stayed in Granada, but for our next visit we would try Mirador del Jazmin or Hotel Santa Isabella Real both of which get great ratings and in are ideal locations.

Day 5 – The Alhambra

I’d allow a half day for the Alhambra, the greatest of Spain’s Moorish places and a place steeped in history. If you see nothing else in Spain, see this. The main attraction is the Palacios Nazaries but the gardens and Charles V palace are worthwhile and part of the package.

Alhambra in Granada
Alhambra
Alhambra
Alhambra and Granada

When done here head back down the hill (the Alhambra is about a 30 minute walk above the main part of town) and see whatever you did not get to yesterday. Enjoy another night in Granada at the same lodging.

Day 6 – Marbella and Ronda

This is when you head to the heart of the white towns of Andalucia. Total drive time will be about 3-4 hours but a fair amount of drive is near the coast and time it to stop for lunch in Marbella. The route from Marbella to Ronda as you ascend up the mountains is quite scenic. Marbella is the classiest of the Costa del Sol beach towns, which can seem otherwise a bit chaotic and overrun by expats. We parked and found a lovely restaurant on the beach and had lunch gazing down towards Gibraltar. After lunch head up to Ronda.

Ronda is in a spectacular setting – all white (as most of the frontera hill towns are), perched precariously on top of steep cliffs and built on both sides of a dramatic gorge, with a bridge between the old and new parts spanning the gorge. Sights include the Bullring and museum, church of Santa Maria la Mayor in the old town, gorge, and new bridge. The delight really exists in wandering through the town and enjoying the views and ambience. We really enjoyed tapas in the new town (on one side of the bridge) but liked staying in the old town (other side of the bridge) at the Hotel San Gabriel

Ronda
Ronda
Ronda
Ronda

Day 7 – The White Hill Towns

This is a day to visit some beautiful villages and countryside. The hill towns of the frontera are so called because they were the front line between moorish and catholic Spain during the reconquista (the time that the Christian Spaniards gradually won land back from the Moorish Spaniards).

From Ronda head to Zahara, a cute town tucked under a castle on a hill above the town overlooking a reservoir. Stop for a snack or lunch then head on To Grazalema. This is another picturesque town in the heart of the Sierra de Grazalema national park – with trails, rugged limestone, caves, and gorges. The area is surprisingly green countryside and the mountain roads offer a very scenic drive. Continue onto Arcos de la Fronterra, the largest (yet equally picturesque) of the hilltowns. Wander through it’s windy streets on foot. Continue onto Sevilla. Park as directed by your hotel (we had a heck of a time finding the designated lot – ask for a detailed map). Stay at Hotel Alimar (night 1/3). Grab a late dinner.

Gramzalema
Zahara / driving in Europe
Zahara

Day 8 – Sevilla

Sevilla may be my favorite city in Spain. It’s an easy walking city full of attractions. In fact strolling here has been elevated to an activity (the Paseo) where every evening starting around 18:00 locals are out strolling various neighborhoods.

Take a walking tour with Connie seeing Sevilla and then the cathedral. Then if you have the time and energy see the Alcazar (otherwise find another day to see it) and the Bario Santa Cruz neighborhood, Sevilla’s old Jewish Quarter. Sevilla is a charming, walkable city so enjoy exploring. Tonight or tomorrow arrange to see some Flamenco. Stay at Hotel Alimar (2/3)

Sevilla Cathedral
Sevilla
Royal Alcazar Sevilla
Royal Alcazar Sevilla

Day 9 – Córdoba

For an easy and delightful day trip today you can train (high speed rail goes straight there from Sevilla) or drive to Córdoba and tour the Mezquita and town, then return to Sevilla for the night. Stay at Hotel Alimar (3/3)

Mosque at Corbova

Day 10 – Off to Portugal

Drive to Evora (3h 26m), a Unesco world heritage site. Enjoy an hour or so exploring the city surrounded by cork trees. Enjoy the Roman remnants, aquaduct, and temple before making your way to the impressive 12th century Romanesque and Gothic cathedral, perched upon mosque ruins. Finally make your way to the Church of St. Francis and the Chapel of Bones (yup, walls lined with bones and skulls). Grab lunch in the town.

Evora Bone Chapel
Roman Ruins Evora
Evora Bone Chapel Entrance

From here head off (1h 28m) to the St Jerome Monastery

It’s a short drive from here to the lovely beach town of Cascais (26m).  We suggest staying here as a beachy low key (and less expensive) alternative to Lisbon. Stay at Pergola house (1/3)

Day 11 – Sintra

Make your way up to Sintra. It is only a 19 minute drive from Cascais. Parking can be a problem so leave early – or consider public transportation (easy train connections for Lisbon if you stay there instead of Cascais). Park where you can – you can take a bus up to the castles. It’s a delightful place to spend the day. Stay at Pergola house (2/3)

Sintra
Sintra

Day 12 – Lisbon

Today you’ll spend the day exploring Lisbon – a hilly town famous for trolleys, hills, and picturesque neighborhoods. It’s a 33 minute drive from Cascais or a 40 minute train (might be easier given traffic and parking in Lisbon). The best thing to do is just explore the town – consider a walking tour with Lisbon Waker or Inside Lisbon or manage your own walking tour through the Bario Alto, Alfama, and Baixa neighborhoods. Use the elevators, escalators, and trolleys to get around. If you have the energy and interest see the Gulbenkian museum. Stay at Pergola House  (3/3 night) in Cascais

Monastery of Jeronimus

Day 13 – Salamanca via Obidos and Coimbra

Head back to Spain by way of a couple of delightful stops. First head to Obidos (1h 12m), a charming walled town. The town was a traditional wedding gift from the king of Portugal to his queen since 1282. The town is small and does not take long to explore but it is delightfully cute.

Obidos

From here head to Coimbra (1h 23m),  a university town since 1308. It’s on top of a hill and the old town makes for a delightful ramble. At the top of the town visit the old University and in particular the King John library (possible the most spectacular library in the world). You will need a ticket to get in the library with timed entry for 10 minutes (to keep humidity levels down)

Coimbra

Leaving Coimbra head to Salamanca (3h16m drive) and stay at Room Mate Vega (night 1/1).

Day 14 – Salamanca and Ávila

Start your day by heading to Salamanca. Salamanca boasts Spain’s grandest plaza, oldest university, and funkiest carved facade on its cathedral. First, stroll the Plaza Mayor and stop for a cup of coffee. Then head up to the university for a tour – be sure and see the University library. Afterwards head over to the cathedral (find the astronaut on the facade before heading inside). Grab lunch at a spot on the Plaza Mayor (try the local specialty of sopa de ajo) or make a picnic with food from the mercado on Plaza Mercado.

Salamanca University Library
Plaza Mayor Salamanca

Next stop is Ávila. Ávila is famous for its preserved medieval wall and being the birthplace of St Teresa; plus, it has a charming old town. Stroll the wall from 1100 and visit the town. There’s a cathedral if you haven’t seen enough of them already, and at the Convent of St. Teresa you can visit her finger (no kidding).

Walls of Avila
Avila

Then continue on to the delightful  Parador de la Granja (1/2 nights). Right next door is the “mini Versailles” palace of La Granja de San Ildefonso. Stop by to see an 18th century palace and beautiful gardens.

Parador de la Granja

Day 15 – Segovia and El Esorial

Today is your day for exploring Segovia. Segovia is famous for its Roman Aqueduct (the best roman structure in Spain), cathedral, and castle. It’s also a delightful town for a stroll.

Aqueduct at Segovia

After a tour of Segovia head over the mountains to El Escorial, Phillip II’s Monastery/palace. Phillip II was not exactly a fun fellow and he basically at huge cost built a giant monastery that became the seat of power. It is impressive, austere, and imposing.

El Escorial

Return to Parador de la Granja (2/2 nights).

Day 16 – Home

All good things must come to an end. Bid farewell to the Parador, drive to the Madrid airport, drop the car and board your flight home.

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