On this trip visit some of the highlights of this amazing (and enormous) state. This is a jam-packed trip. No, seriously. You move quickly and the days are full. If you want more time to hike or relax, we recommend picking a few places to visit to dedicate to these activities. Consider our other Alaska itineraries which separate the Southeast and Central Alaska into two trips for more time to enjoy each place. The most common way to visit is via cruise ship but as we are not fans of cruise ships in general, this trip avoids that. You will note a lot of flying. That is because the distances are vast in between sites. This trip allows you to sample the southeast as well as Denali and some of the interior. The scenery and wildlife are amazing and you will see a lot with this itinerary. This being Alaska, weather can have big effects – Alaskans say there is no bad weather just inadequate clothing. Be prepared to be flexible.
Transportation: Car, Boat, Rail, Plane
Length: 15 days
Guide Book: Lonely Planet Alaska, Fodors Alaska
Day 1 – Ketchikan
- Fly into Ketchikan – take the short ferry across to the Island from the airport
- Taxi/shuttle to lodging or rental car with Tongass car rental
- Town wander:
- Creek Street Boardwalk
- Salmon ladder
- Drinks – Bawden Street Brewing Company or Asylum Bar
- Dinner – Cape Fox Lodge, 108 Tap House, Alaska Fish House, New York Cafe, or Annabelle’s
- Lodging – Cape Fox Lodge, Inn at Creek Street, or Black Bear Inn (night 1/1)
Day 2 – Misty Fjords and Ketchikan
- Floatplane with Misty Fjords Flightseeing
- Lunch – 108 Tap House & Burger Bar
- Evening Alaska Air flight to Sitka
- Dinner – Ludvig’s Bistro, Beak Restaurant, Mean Queen, or Harbor Mountain Brewing Company
- Drinks – Harbor Mountain Brewing Company, Ernie’s Old Time Saloon
- Lodging – Sitka Hotel, Sitka Longliner Lodge, Westmark Sitka, alternatively extend your trip at Talon Lodge and Spa (fishing lodge, for a big splurge) (night 1/1)
Day 3 – Sitka
- Breakfast – Wildflour Cafe
- Explore Sitka
- Lunch – Ludvig’s chowder cart, Ashmo’s, The Fresh Fish, Sitka Pel’Meni
- Optional further exploration:
- Sheldon Jackson Museum
- Russian Bishop’s House
- Fortress of the Bear (this one requires a shuttle – all others walkable)
- Hike to Indian River Falls or Gavan Hill/Harbor Mountain
- Coastal boat tour
- Evening flight to Juneau
- Pick up rental car at the airport
- Lodging – Alaska Capital Inn, Jorgenson House Bed and Breakfast, Auke Lake Bed and Breakfast, Four Points by Sheraton (night 1/2)
Day 4 – Juneau
- Whale watching
- Drive to Mendenhall Glacier + hike
- Optional guided glacier walk
- Explore Juneau
- Drinks – Devils Club Brewery, Forbidden Peaks Brewery, Barnaby Brewing Company, Alaska Brewing Company, Louie’s Douglas Inn
- Dinner – The Island Pub, SALT, The Twisted Fish, Deckhand Dave’s Fish Tacos, Hangar on the Wharf, In Bocca al Lupo
- Lodging – same place (night 2/2)
Day 5 – Juneau to Skagway
- Breakfast – Rookery Cafe or Heritage Coffee Roasting Company
- Mt. Roberts Tram and hike
- Fly to Skagway – Alaska Seaplanes
- Walking Day Tour around Skagway
- Bordello tour
- Dinner – Olivia’s Bistro, Skagway Brewing Company, The Smokehouse, Red Onion Saloon, Skagway Fish Company
- Lodging – Historic Skagway Inn (night 1/1)
Day 6 – Skagway
- Whitehorse and Yukon Railway
- Optional bike ride down
- Flight to Juneau with Alaska Seaplanes
- Flight to Gustavus with Alaska Airlines
- Dinner – Glacier Bay Lodge
- Lodging – Glacier Bay Lodge (night 1/2)
Day 7 – Glacier Bay
- Glacier Bay Tour Boat
- Dinner – Glacier Bay Lodge
- Fly to Anchorage (with layover in Juneau) with Alaska airlines
- Pick up rental car
- Lodging – hotel near airport (night 1/1)
Day 8 – Anchorage to Talkeetna to Denali
- Breakfast – Fire Island Rustic Bakeshop/That Feeling Co. Coffee, Snow City Cafe Breakfast, or Dark Horse Coffee Co
- Drive to Talkeetna (approx. 2h drive)
- Flightseeing Denali
- If weather is bad you can put this off until day 10 – decide the day of
- Explore Talkeetna
- Lunch – Denali Brewpub, Mountain High Pizza Pie, Mimi’s Haus of Cheese, Conscious Coffee
- Drive to Denali (2h drive)
- Dinner – 229 Parks, Perch Restaurant, Alpenglow, Panorama Pizza Pub, Moose AKa’s, or 49th State Brewing
- Lodging – Tonglen Lake Lodge or Grande Denali Lodge (night 1/2)
Day 9 – Denali
- Denali bus tour
- Optional Hike:
- Horseshoe Lake Trail (2 miles roundtrip)
- Savage Alpine Trail (4.1 miles end to end with shuttle)
- Optional visit to the sled dogs
- Dining – choose a different one than the night before
- Lodging – same place (night 2/2)
Day 10 – Denali to Anchorage
- Drive to Anchorage (4h drive)
- Lunch – AK Alchemist Coffee
- Anchorage Museum
- Optional: Tony Knowles Coastal Trail by foot or bike
- Ice cream – Wild Scoops
- Drinks – choose from our Anchorage Drink Recommendations
- Dinner – choose from our Anchorage Restaurant Recommendations
- Lodging – Copper Whale Inn, Susitna Place B and B or Hotel Captain Hook (night 1/1)
Day 11 – Anchorage to Seward
- Drive to Seward (2h30m drive)
- Stop in Girdwood/Alyeska to:
- Hike
- Gondola
- Nordic Spa
- Lunch – Girdwood Brewing Company
- Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center
- Exit Glacier hike
- Dinner – The Cookery, Seward Brewing Company, or Resurrection Roadhouse,
- Lodging – Box Canyon Cabins or Seward Windsong Lodge (night 1/2)
Day 12- Seward
- Breakfast – Sea Bean Cafe or 13 Ravens Coffee
- Boat to Kenai Fjords National Park with sea kayaking to Aialik Glacier
- Alternative options:
- Sled dog center
- Alaska Sealife Center
- Hike to Lost Lake or Harding Ice Field with Exit Glacier Guides
- Dinner – Resurrection Roadhouse or Seward Brewing Company, The Cookery, Ray’s
- Lodging – same place (night 2/2)
Day 13 – Seward to Homer
- Drive to Homer (3h16m drive)
- Skilak Lake
- Optional breweries along the way:
- Copper River Brewing (Copper River)
- Naptowne Brewing Company (Stirling)
- Kenai River Brewing Company (Soldotna)
- Kenai National Wildlife Refuge and hike
- Optional stops:
- Old town Kenai
- Old Ninilchik village and Our Lord Russian Orthodox Church
- Dinner – Johnny’s Corner, The Twisted Goat, AJ’s Old Town Steakhouse and Tavern, The Kannery, Fat Olives, Fresh Catch Cafe
- Drinks – Sweetgale Meadworks and Cider House, Grace Ridge Brewing Company, Homer Brewing Company
- Lodging – Bay Avenue Inn, Alaskan Suites or Homer Inn and Spa (night 1/2)
Day 14 – Katmai National Park day trip
- Bear viewing flight / trip to Katmai National Park.
- This is best July to August when the bears are actively fishing
- Alternative option:
- Hiking in the state park
- Boat taxi to Kachemak Bay State Park
- Hike the Glacier Lake Trail and Saddle Trail +/- the additional Blue Ice Trail
- Hiking in the state park
- Dinner – The Saltry
- Lodging – same place (night 2/2)
Day 15 – Homer to Anchorage
- Drive to Anchorage (4h drive)
- Drop rental car
- Fly home
Ferry Alternative
Most people visiting this part of the country travel on the many massive cruise ships that trawl the Inside Passage (the network of islands and straits that makes up southeast Alaska). We’re not fans of cruises because we prefer more autonomy when we travel and due to their environmental impact. However, this part of the world is one of the few that we’d consider visiting via cruise ship because the terrain and stops are so well-suited to this mode of travel. And, for the most part, you’ll arrive at port in the morning, have the whole day to explore, then sleep on the boat before arriving at your next stop. If you go by cruise ship, you’ll probably finish your trip in Seward. If you like, you can do the end of this itinerary in reverse, from Seward to Denali, once you finish your cruise.
If you really want a taste of the Inside Passage but don’t want to book a cruise, you can take the Alaska Marine Highway System from Ketchikan to Skagway instead of flying. The ferry typically takes 1-3 days to get place to place, so it eats a lot of time from your trip. It’s also more expensive (at least if you book a cabin, another option is to tent camp on deck) than flying, which only takes an hour or two. The ferries aren’t all that nice (they were built in the 60s and haven’t really been updated), and the food is mediocre (if you’ve traveled the Canadian or New Zealand ferry systems, you’ll be disappointed). On the other hand, you’ll get a unique view of the Inside Passage’s spectacular country and a genuine Alaska experience. You’ll also stop at towns like Petersburg, Wrangell, and Haines, but the stops aren’t long enough to see anything (or even get a meal on land). Ultimately, we recommend that you fly and skip the ferry.
Detailed Itinerary
OK a few things you need to know:
- Alaska is one of our favorite places in the entire world. The nature and wildlife is unparalleled. It’s a special place and well-worth your time.
- Alaska is huge – this trip hits some highlights in southeast, south central, and central Alaska, but much is left out. There are few roads so travel is boat and plane. Small planes are the norm here – there are more seaplanes (and pilots) per capita than anywhere in the world.
- Be flexible. Weather is a big issue and we had multiple cancellations and changes. Be prepared for that.
- Try and plan excursions for the first day you arrive in town. If weather affects them, you then have more days to rearrange your plans to. Things get rained out, flights can’t take off, the sea swell is too high…but if you schedule for the first day the weather may improve by the second and you can re-book to then.
- The southeast of Alaska is highly tourist- and cruise ship-dependent – tiny towns of 800 can expand to 8000 with arrival of ships.
- Alaska, especially in the summer, is very expensive. VERY. Lodging, excursions, food…it all is pricey. Nearly anything you want to do is going to cost money. The seafood is some of the freshest you’ll find in the world, but it’s priced as such. Budget accordingly or visit in shoulder seasons when the prices drop. Additionally, expect lodging to be relatively basic, especially for the high prices you’re paying. That’s just Alaska and if you’re choosing to visit, you’re choosing to accept that.
Day 1 – Ketchikan
Ketchikan is the third largest town in Alaska. Originally a fishing and logging town it is now largely dependent on tourism, and much of the large industries are no more. In all honesty, the town of Ketchikan itself is one of my least favorite on-the-tourist-path stops in Alaska. That being said, the Misty Fjords make it completely worth it. Highlights include the native (mostly Tlingit) culture and the nearby Misty Fjords National Park.
The airport is on an island across the water from Ketchikan. Follow the signs to the ferry (runs every 15 minutes) across the the port. We recommend Tongass Car Rental. They’re very nice and much less expensive (like half price) than larger agencies. If you stay in town you may not need a car. Most lodgings in town will offer a shuttle from the ferry terminal. If you stay at the Cape Fox Lodge or Inn at Creek Street arrange a shuttle with them. If you stay at the Black Bear Inn, you’ll probably find a car worthwhile.
Depending on your arrival time, explore the town today. Top places to see include Creek Street Boardwalk (Kethikan’s red light district from 1903, still complete with well-preserved homes), Ketchikan Creek Falls and the salmon ladder (where salmon swim upstream in August, can see from Creek Street Footbridge), and a variety of totem viewing places, the best being Totem Bight State Park. If you want a extended deep dive into the local culture and experience, you can opt for a tour with Lisa of Tlinglit Tours for a tour around the area including areas to see bears and some of the famous totems.
For dinner recommend the Heen Kahidi Dining Room at the Cape Fox Lodge, which has a great view over town (and is open later than many places in town). Other good options include the 108 Tap House, the Alaska Fish House, New York Cafe, and Annabelle’s. A good option for brews (Alaska loves its craft beer) is Bawden Street Brewing Company. If you want a nightcap and a local watering hole experience, the Asylum Bar is open late and offers a great selection of local draft beers.
Day 2 – Misty Fjords and Ketchikan
Be sure to arrange Misty Fjords flight-seeing in advance and meet your pilot at the designated time. The meeting point is not far from downtown. If you get good weather, the flight will be one of the highlights of the trip. Allow about 2 hours. You will fly out over the enormous Tongass Wilderness to some truly amazing scenery and land on a spectacular mountain lake before returning to Ketchikan. For more of an adventure you can combine this with a glacier tour or a hiking tour.
Grab lunch at the 108 Taphouse and Burger Bar. Spend any remaining time of your afternoon exploring any site you didn’t see the day before. You can also opt for a hike if you have additional time (consider Rainbird Trail or Carlanna Lake Trail or the hike up to Deer Mountain leaves from downtown and climbs 3000 feet through forest to alpine terrain). If you’re a beer fan, stop by Bawden Street Brewery.
Grab an afternoon or early evening flight to Sitka. Sitka does not have ride sharing app-based services and has very limited cab service (Baranof is one of the options). If your hotel does not provide a shuttle, range a cab ahead. If your hotel does provide a shuttle, call ahead to confirm your pick up.
For lodging, the Sitka Hotel is basic but in a fantastic location and very walkable to everything. Other decent options include Sitka Longliner Lodge and Westmark Sitka. If you’re looking for a fishing lodge experience, Sikta is a nice place for this option. Consider staying at and extending your trip at the Talon Lodge and Spa for a private island experience.
Grab dinner at Ludvig’s Bistro (reserve ahead), Beak Restaurant, Mean Queen, or Harbor Mountain Brewing Company.
For a nightcap stop by Ernie’s Old Time Saloon.
Day 3 – Sitka
Sitka is one of Alaska’s prettiest and most historic towns (and has won awards for one of the prettiest towns in America). Sitka is surrounded by forests, mountains, and water with a blend of Alaskan native, Russian (Sitka was capital of Russian Alaska from 1808 to 1867), and historic American sites. It’s a delightful place to spend a few days.
Start with breakfast at the wonderful Wildflour Cafe.
Spend today exploring on foot. The top sites include St Michaels Cathedral and Castle Hill. Grab lunch at one of Sikta’s many food trucks: Ludvig’s chowder cart, Ashmo’s, and The Fresh Fish being our favorite or at Sitka Pel’Meni (for Russian dumplings), before continuing onto the Sitka National Historic Park, marveling at totems, and ending up at the Alaska Raptor Center which serves to rehabilitate Alaskan birds and raptors. After you finish at the Raptor Center, you’re well-positioned to stop at Harbor Mountain Brewing Company for a beer (or wood-fired pizza).
Other interesting places to see in Sikta include the Sheldon Jackson Museum and Russian Bishop’s House which you can do on the way to or from the Raptor Center. With time you can head out (via bus (runs about once per hour) or cab) to the Fortress of the Bear a conservation center for resident grizzlies harmed in the wild. If you love wildlife, jump on a Coastal boat tour to sail out into sitka’s bay to the ocean, seeing whales, otters, puffins, and seals along the way. If you enjoy hiking, the hike along Indian River Trail to Indian River Falls is well-worth it and ends with a stunning waterfall and Gavan Hill Trail to Harbor Mountain is one of the prettiest hikes we’ve ever done and will take you up to incredible views over Sikta of mountains, sea, and sky.
After a bite to eat, try and grab the latest flight to Juneau. Once you arrive in Juneau, pick up your rental car at the airport (unlike Ketchikan, the Juneau airport has offices for several of the major car rental companies) and drive downtown (about 15 minutes) to stay at our favorite lodging in Juneau, the Alaska Capital Inn. Other options include Jorgenson House Bed and Breakfast, Auke Lake Bed and Breakfast, and Four Points by Sheraton.
Day 4 – Juneau
Juneau is a beautiful town set on the water and tucked under soaring mountains and waterfalls. It’s in the middle of a rainforest so it rains a lot, but it’s a prettier town than Ketchikan or Anchorage. We highly recommend getting up early for a whale and bald eagle tour.
Your tour leaves from Auke Bay just north of Juneau so it makes sees to stop at the Mendenhall Glacier for sightseeing and a hike on the way back to town. There are a number of short walks you can do from the glacier visitor center (like the lovely East Glacier Trail or the Nugget Falls Trail) or walk up to the glacier via the more intense West Glacier Trail. You can also arrange for an afternoon guided glacier hike.
Spend some time exploring the shops and Juneau’s historic district. If you like beer, be sure to visit the Devils Club Brewery; it’s one of our favorite breweries in Alaska. Other good options if you enjoy breweries are Forbidden Peaks Brewery, Barnaby Brewing Company, and Alaska Brewing Company. Or if you’re heading to Douglas already for dinner, check out Louie’s Douglas Inn. For dinner we do recommend taking the short drive across to Douglas Island for amazing pizza at The Island Pub. Other good options for dinner include SALT, The Twisted Fish, Deckhand Dave’s Fish Tacos, In Bocca al Lupo, and Hangar on the Wharf.
Day 5 – Juneau to Skagway
We recommend getting breakfast or coffee at Rookery Cafe or Heritage Coffee Roasting Company.
Your flight to Skagway on Alaska Seaplanes can be flexible depending on what you want to do. The train sells out early in Skagway and if you’re looking to do the train/biking combo you may want to arrive in Skagway before noon. If you’re not planning the excursion for today, you could arrive later.
You may have time in the morning in Juneau to take the Mount Roberts Tram 1,800 feet up the mountainside for views and hiking in the alpine landscape at the top. There’s a café and bar up there as well. If you want a really early start, you can actually walk/climb all the way up to the top.
Return to sea level and head back to the airport to board your flight to Skagway. The plane will be small (usually about 9 passengers), but the only other way to get there is the Alaska Ferry or Fjord Express Ferry. The boat ride is a lot longer than flying, so you’ll probably have to add a day to your trip (or cut another day somewhere) to travel by sea. While it does offer some impressive views of the Inside Passage, we don’t think it’s worth the trip/extra time.
Skagway in tiny, and you won’t need a car. If you decide to get one, there is only one place to rent a car in town, Affordable Car Rental. Avis sometimes claim to offer rentals in Skagway, but they haven’t had an office there for years. A car is useful if you decide to visit nearby Dyea, but otherwise not necessary.
In any case, you should arrive in time to do a walking tour and you can pick up a map for a self-directed exploration of the town from the Klondike Gold Rush National Historic Park Visitor Center, which also offers a good overview of the stampedes to the Klondike gold fields. There is a short bordello tour at the Red Onion Saloon which you can do today or reserve for tomorrow. With thousands of men on their way to the Klondike gold fields there were a lot of bordellos in Skagway; some of the most successful business people in town got their start working in one. In fact your lodging tonight is at the Historic Skagway Inn, which was a former bordello. The rooms are named for the ladies who worked there.
For dinner, stop by Olivia’s Bistro, Skagway Brewing Company, The Smokehouse, Red Onion Saloon, or Skagway Fish Company.
Day 6 – Skagway
Take the AM Whitehorse and Yukon Railway train up to the pass for great views and history of the gold rush in Alaska (you need these tickets far in advance, they sell out). If you’re up for a little more adventure, we highly recommend Sockeye Cycle Company‘s combo train/bike tour. They offer a tour where you can ride the train up to the pass and bike the 3,000 feet back down the mountain into town, ending before noon. Alternatively, you can take a van to the top.
There were two routes to the gold fields: Whitehorse Pass and the Chilkoot Trail from nearby Dyea. Dyea was a large town and the Chilkoot trail left from there. It was dangerous and strenuous but a somewhat shorter route than from Skagway. When the railway was built (an amazing feat of engineering), there was no more point in taking the Chilkoot Trail, it marked the death of Dyea. Today Dyea is a forest with a few foundations remaining. If you have time (and transportation) you can check out what remains of it. Then grab an Alaska Seaplanes flight back to Juneau in the afternoon.
If your flight arrives early enough that you have some time before your flight to Gustavus (usually around 4:30 PM on Alaska Airlines), you can take a cab to nearby Auke Bay and the Forbidden Peaks Brewery. There aren’t a lot of dining options at the Juneau airport.
The flight to Gustavus is only about 30 minutes. When you arrive, take the shuttle bus to the Glacier Bay Lodge where you will be having dinner and staying. It’s a good idea to get dinner reservations in advance, as it’s the only place to eat, so it can fill up. In the summer you should be there early enough to take a walk around the area before dinner.
Day 7 – Glacier Bay
Like most things in Alaska, Glacier Bay National Park is huge. Many cruise ships do enter the bay but to really get a sense of it you can arrange to take the all day Glacier Bay Tour Boat from the Glacier Bay Inn (7am – 3:30pm) which cruises past scenery and wildlife to park at the end of the bay where you can watch the glacier calving – dropping huge block of ice into the water as is reaches the sea. Glacier Bay was an enormous ice field when Europeans discovered it in the late 18th century, and the rate of glacial retreat is pretty astonishing.
The Alaska Air flight generally leaves in the early evening (you can also fly on Alaska Seaplanes). You may have a long layover in Juneau before your flight to Anchorage, so consider whether it’s worth the trip into town to get a meal that’s more interesting than the offerings at Juneau’s airport. Be sure and return in time for your flight to Anchorage.
On arrival In Anchorage pick up a rental car (plenty of choices here) and drive a short distance to a hotel near the airport (you won’t be here long – find a close place with easy and free parking as you will be getting in late again). Easy options include the Courtyard by Marriott Anchorage Airport, Hampton Inn Anchorage, Hyatt Place, and Clarion Suites. If you plan to get a later start tomorrow or to spend more time in Anchorage, our recommended stay is the Copper Whale Inn.
Day 8 – Denali by Air
Be sure and reserve a trip in advance for Flightseeing Denali. You will want to take the 2 hour tour with a glacier landing as it gets all around the mountain and the glacier landing is definitely worth it. This excursion isn’t cheap, but it’ll be one of your trip’s highlights—if the weather is good, The good news is that, while you will have paid in advance, the outfitters are typically very flexible and let you rebook for the next couple of days if it looks like the skies will be clearer (confirm this when you book). About one day in three will have decent weather and you really need to be able to see the mountain. But if you do it’s quite spectacular.
It’s about a two hour drive from Anchorage to Talkeetna, and you’ll need to be at the airport at least 30 minutes before your flight, so plan accordingly. There’s a better chance of clear weather in the morning. Talkeetna is very small but has a series of stores and pubs so you can grab lunch here. Denali Brewpub company is a solid choice, but other good options include Mountain High Pizza Pie, Mimi’s Haus of Cheese, Conscious Coffee.
Continue a scenic two hour drive to Denali National Park. We highly recommend that you stay a short distance outside the park at the lovely Tonglen Lake Lodge, though another good option is Grande Denali Lodge. Make sure to eat at 229 Parks (get reservations), but other decent options include Perch Restaurant, Alpenglow, Panorama Pizza Pub, Moose AKa’s, or 49th State Brewing.
Day 9 – Denali
Denali National Park is an enormous park that was set up to preserve the tundra ecosystem and abundant wildlife to the north of Mount Denali ( the mountain itself was originally outside the park and not added till the 1960s) Visitors to the National Park must take buses to access most of the park. There are two types: transit buses and tour buses. You’ll want to book one of the tour buses have a naturalist on board and stop to view wildlife. Be prepared for a LONG trip: you’ll be on the bus from early AM to late afternoon. Bring your own food, too, the buses sometimes provide a pretty lousy snack bag, but sometimes not even that. Some of the hotels in the area (including our recommended Tonglen Lake Lodge) will offer sandwiches, wraps, or other packed lunches to take on the bus. There are stops along the way for bathroom breaks and to stretch your legs. The scenery is otherworldly: massive braided glacial rivers. canyons, and high country tundra. On our trip we saw caribou, moose, grizzlies, and mountain sheep. Be sure and arrive at least 15 minutes before departure.
Be aware that during the summer of 2021 there was a major landslide about half-way along the road due to melting of the permafrost. There are plans to build a bridge across the problem area, but in 2022 the road will not be open past mile 45.
With extra time in the afternoon, you can enjoy a hike like the Horseshoe Lake Trail (probably the best option) or Savage Alpine Trail (longer and more challenging to figure out, you’ll need a shuttle).
If hiking isn’t your thing, visit the Denali sled dogs. Sled dogs have been used for 100 years to patrol Denali National Park. Once the park becomes snow covered, these sled dogs are used by park rangers to travel through and patrol the park. In the summer you can visit them at their kennels.
Return to your lodging and try a different restaurant from the night before.
Day 10 – Denali to Anchorage
You’ll spend most of the day today on the four-hour drive to Anchorage, so no real need for an early start unless you have moved your flight seeing to this day (if necessary due to weather). Consider visiting the Anchorage museum in Anchorage with a collection of art and history exhibits. We recommend staying at the Susitna Place B and B.
Day 11 – Anchorage to Seward
Today is another transit day as you make your way to Seward, The drive time is only two and a half hours, but the scenery is lovely as you drive down the Turnagain Arm, and there are some worthwhile stops along the way. First, stop in Girdwood home of the Alyeska Ski resort. Consider the Winner Creek hike and lunch and drinks at Girdwood Brewing Company.
A little further along is the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center, where you can get up close to some of the wildlife you may have missed or only seen from a distance.
Continue on to Exit Glacier Road just before Seward and then proceed up the road to Exit Glacier. The Exit Glacier comes off the enormous ice field above, which blankets much of the Katmai Peninsula and spawns numerous glaciers. This one is interesting in that you can walk up quite close to it and there are signs of where it was before retreating. There is a strenuous trail that leaves from here and climbs about 3000 feet up to view the ice field, if you have the energy and the time.
Get dinner at the Seward Brewing Company or The Cookery. Another ok option is the Resurrection Roadhouse.
We loved staying at the Box Canyon Cabins though another good option is the Seward Windsong Lodge.
Day 12 – Seward
Get breakfast at Sea Bean Cafe or 13 Ravens Coffee.
Seward is one of the best places for sea kayaking in Alaska. Book a reservation in advance, then arrive early for a beautiful all-day boat and wildlife watching trip to Aialik Glacier. The boat will pull up on a beach, and you’ll board your sea kayak and paddle amongst the ice to get within a half mile of the Aialik Glacier in Kenai Fjords National Park. Pack a lunch or reserve lunch in advance from the outfitter. Alternatively, visit the sled dog center (where dogs from the famous Iditarod Sled Race are trained and live). You might also consider a hike to Lost Lake or up to the Harding ice field with Exit Glacier Guides.
Day 13 – Seward to Homer
Drive to Homer which will take you a little over 3 hours..
Opt to take the detour along the Skilak Lake Road, an 18-mile-long gravel road along which you can see wildlife and spectacular views of lakes and glaciers.
If you like breweries, there’s no shortage along the way. Stop by Copper River Brewing (in Copper River), Naptowne Brewing Company (in Stirling), or Kenai River Brewing Company (in Soldotna). Make sure you have a designated driver!
If you didn’t catch wildlife along the Skilak Lake Road, another great option is the Kenai National Wildlife Refuge where you can take a hike to try and see some.
If you like history you can detour again to Old Town Kenai (sites include Moosemeat John’s Cabin, Fort Kenay, historic Kenai cabins and 75 m Howitzer, the Arness Cabin, the Miller Cabin, the Dolchok/Juliussen cabin, the Three Scandinavians cabin, the Tomrdle House, the Holy Assumption of Saint Mary Russian Orthodox Church, the Rectory, the Chapel of St. Nicholas, Hermansen Miller House, and Veronica’s).
Another historic area is Old Ninilchik village and Our Lord Russian Orthodox Church.
Homer (“the end of the road”) is popular with Alaskans. It is in a lovely setting: the Homer Spit juts into the bay with mountains and glaciers sitting across the bay in the distance. Homer is full of artists and art galleries. It’s a center for halibut fishing and flight trips to see massive salmon-eating bears in Katmai National Park. The Homer Spit extends 4 miles into the bay and is full of fishing charters, tourist shops, and places to eat, and while not exactly attractive, is very popular. There’s even a “fishing hole” where you can try your luck for salmon right off the spit. Consider visiting the Islands and Oceans Visitor Center for an introduction to the Alaska Maritime Wildlife Refuge.
For dinner we recommend Johnny’s Corner (incredible seafood bowls), The Twisted Goat (farm-to-table pizza), AJ’s Old Town Steakhouse and Tavern (upscale and oldschool), The Kannery (Alaskan-Asian fusion), Fat Olives (Italian), and Fresh Catch Cafe (seafood).
If it’s before 8pm (Alaskan law doesn’t allow breweries to stay open later) grab a drink at Sweetgale Meadworks and Cider House (I was obsessed and could have gone back 100 times), Grace Ridge Brewing Company, or Homer Brewing Company.
We recommend you stay at Bay Avenue Inn (run by the incredibly delightful Lori), Homer Inn and Spa, or Alaskan Suites.
Day 14 – Katmai National Park day trip
Take bear viewing flight to Katmai National Park (best in August when the bears are actively fishing). This is not cheap—about $700-1000 per person depending on operator—but is one of the most incredible life-changing experiences we have ever had and gives you an amazing experience being surrounded by bears fattening up on salmon for the winter.
Alternatively (or with more time) you could book a halibut fishing trip. Homer is famous for its enormous halibut. You could also take a boat taxi to Kachemak Bay State Park and hike the Glacial Lake Trail and Saddle Trail to the boat pick up point (in Halibut Cove) or to do a longer hike via the Blue Ice Trail where you’ll break off to the glacier overlook before heading to the lake.
You’ll get back in time for dinner at The Saltry which is one of the most amazing dining experiences in Alaska. Located across Kachemak Bay in the tiny settlement of Halibut Cove, you’ll start by taking the ferry (Danny J). Enjoy dining on incredible seafood and wandering the artisan shops of Halibut Cove.
For an after dinner drink you should stop by the historic Salty Dawg for drinks (anyone’s guess how much money is pinned to the walls). Other options include The Homestead Restaurant LLC or Alice’s Champagne Palace.
Day 15 – Homer to Anchorage
Unfortunately, all trips eventually end and today it’s time to head home. It’s a little over four hours from Homer to the Anchorage, so allow enough time to drive, fill and drop the rental car, and catch your plane home.