Portugal in 2 Weeks

Portugal

Portugal in 2 Weeks

On this trip you’ll see the beautiful beaches of the Algarve, terraced hills and vineyards of the Duoro Valley, and plenty of history in between.

Length: 16 days (with options to shorten)

This trip fits into a Saturday-to-Sunday two weeks of holiday. If you choose to shorten your trip, you can reduce a day in Salema and a day in the Duoro Valley. You can also save a day (and 3.5 hours of flying) by choosing to fly out of Porto instead of Lisbon. If you are someone who loves cities over lovely wine country, you may want to consider 2 nights in Porto and sacrifice 1 night in the Duoro Valley.

It’s best if you can fly into Lisbon and out of Porto (it saves you 3.5 hours of driving). However, look under the In-Depth section for recommendations of how to return to Lisbon.

Transportation: Train and Rental Car

Guide Book: Rick Steves Portugal

Day 1 – Arrival

Day 2 – Lisbon

Day 3 – Belem

Day 4 – Sintra

Day 5 – Evora

Day 6 – Salema

Day 7 – Salema

  • Salema beach day
  • Dinner: choose another you didn’t try yesterday
  • Lodging: same place (night 2/3)

Day 8 – Salema

  • Drive to Sagres (17m drive)
    • Henry the Navigator School
  • Lunch – Casa Pizza
  • Beach afternoon in Salema
  • Dinner: choose another you didn’t try yesterday
  • Lodging: same place (night 3/3)

Day 9 – Obidos

Day 10 – Nazare, Alcobaca, Batalha, Tomar

Day 11 – Coimbra

  • University of Coimbra and King Joao’s Library (must reserve in advance)
  • Old Town Walk
  • Machado de Castro Museum and Cryptoporticus of Aeminium
  • Dinner: choose another you didn’t try yesterday
  • Fado performance at Cafe Santa Cruz
  • Lodging: same place (night 2/2)

Day 12 – Duoro Valley

Day 13 – Duoro Valley

  • Duoro cruise
  • Wine tasting, hiking, or relax at your Quinta
  • Dinner: at lodging
  • Lodging: same place (night 2/2)

Day 14 – Porto

Day 15 – Porto to Lisbon

  • Port Wine Lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia and lunch at Vinum
  • Faz neighborhood and Praia da Luz beach with lunch at Praia da Luz
  • Dinner: choose another you didn’t try yesterday
  • Lodging: same place (night 2/2)

Day 16

  • Fly home

Detailed Itinerary

Day 1 –Arrival

Welcome to Portugal!

If you’re arriving at night you’ll need to add an extra day onto the itinerary or skip something elsewhere. You won’t need a car for your first 5 days; plan to Uber or train to your lodging from the Lisbon airport. If you arrive in the morning, select one of the neighborhoods to walk today (or take a day off of this itinerary and start on day 2). Many flights arrive in the afternoon or evening. We’ll assume yours does too.

Grab dinner at one of our recommended Lisbon restaurants.

Head to your hotel, we recommend Residentas Aurea, Dare Lisbon House, Solar do Castel, AlmaLusa Baixa/Chiado, LX Boutique Hotel, The Lisboans, Casa C’alma for your first night of 5.

Day 2 – Lisbon

Wake up and enjoy a day of walking around Lisbon. You can grab a walking tour with Lisbon Walker or Inside Lisbon, both of which offer excellent overviews of the neighborhoods and local history. If you prefer to explore on your own, Lisbon’s old town is broken into 3 distinct neighborhoods: Alfama, Bario, and Baixa and each deserves a full exploration.

We recommend you start your day with breakfast at Padaria do Bairro, an excellent small bakery.

Rick Steves Portugal book has great self-led walking tours you can follow, and which we recommend. Wind your way up to Sao Jorge Castle. Get there via the two free elevator rides up the hill. To find them, go to Rua dos Fanqueiros and through the door at #178 (follow signs for Elevador Castelo). From the top cross through a small square, up Largo Chao do Loureiro to a second elevator with a supermarket at the bottom. Once at the top follow signs to Castelo de S. Jorge up the hill.

While Sao Jorge Castle certainly offers history, built in the 11th century by the Moors, its highlight may be the view. You’ll see the Rio Tejo, red tiled roofs, the 25th of April Bridge, and on a clear day the Monument to Discoveries and the Belem. Wander along the ramparts and through the arches into the ruined courtyard. Enjoy climbing up to the ramparts and continue to drink in the nearly 360-degree panorama.

Lisbon’s rooftops from Sao Jorge Castle

Just outside of the castle is a small neighborhood within the original castle walls where nobles and elites used to live near the king. Filled with houses dating from the Middle Ages, it’s a nice stroll (you literally can’t get lost and will end up making a loop).

Next make your way along Largo Santa Luzia (stop at Miss Can along the way if your really enjoy canned fish). Visit the Igreja de Santa Luzia’s bougainvillea-covered terrace with another nice view of the Alfama neighborhood down below and pretty blue tiled panels on the walls of the church.

Igreja de Santa Luzia

Walk around the church uphill to the Miradouro das Portas do Sol. On the far left you’ll see the huge Monastery of Sao Vincente constructed in the 1600s by King Philip II of Spain. Grab a snack and drink at the kiosk cafe next to the statue of St Vincent and enjoy the view.

Head into the Museum and School of Portuguese Decorative Arts, a manor filled with art from the 15th-18th century and a lovely glimpse into an aristocratic household from that era. If the kiosk was too crowded, this museum offers a lovely interior courtyard where you can grab a bite.

From the museum, head downhill down the stairs of Rua Norberto de Araujo, passing a cartoon mural of Lisbon’s history and the eighth century fortified wall on the right which was originally the boundary of Moorish Lisbon. Head all the way down to Largo de Sao Miguel, which is a slice of life of the Alfama neighborhood, surrounded by a labyrinth of medieval streets, laundry hanging off “one-and-a-half-hand” balconies, and plastic flowers and banners strung across the streets from the popular annual celebrations of St. Anthony in June and downtown Lisboa race.

Continue heading down towards the Praca do Comercio to start your exploration of the Baixa neighborhood. This was rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake on a uniform grid plan by the Marques de Pombal. The neighborhood encompasses three squares and three main streets (Prata, Aurea, and Augusta).

Praca do Comercio is a large, lovely, and lively square, filled with restaurants spilling onto the square and is the gateway to Lisbon where ships used to sell their goods. Prior to the earthquake it was the site of Portugal’s royal palace. Now government ministries surround the square. The statue in the center is of Jose I, the king who gave government control to his chief minister the Marques de Pombal. Facing towards the city you’ll see the Arch of Triumph. If you’re ready for lunch, grab one at many of the restaurants (Martinho da Arcada is a good option) surrounding the square. Or head to the Wines of Portugal Tasting Room to sample local wines.

An evening on the Praca do Comercio

Head through the big arch up the Rua Augusta along the characteristic black-and-white cobbled sidewalk made of mosaic limestone and basalt cobbles. At the Rua do Comercia you can see the Lisbon Cathedral. Take a quick side stroll if you want to see it. Built in 1150, it is the original church in Lisbon and located on the site of a former mosque.

Continue on to the Rua da Vitoria, turn right and walk to the Rua da Prata where you’ll see the Church of St. Nicholas, whose exterior is covered with green tiles (and the fancy tiled buildings right near by it).

Next continue to Praca da Figueira, which was once the site of a large hospital destroyed in the earthquake. In the 1880s it was filled with a large iron-framed market. Today it’s a square that serves as a transportation hub. In the center is a statue of King Joao I on horse. Stop by the historic Confeitaria Nacional to grab a sweet.

From the square head along the Rua Dom Antao de Almada with a classic cod shop and ham counter until you run into the Church of Sao Domingos. This was the center of the Inquisition in the 1600s. If you go inside, you’ll still see black soot on the walls and altar from a fire in 1959. Next to the church is the square Largo de Sao Domingos where you’ll see a stone monument to the Jewish massacre of 1506 (when thousands were killed on the square). This square also housed the 16th century slave market, but today it’s a meeting point for the city’s African community and an entryway to Lisbon’s Mouraria district, an immigrant neighborhood.

Stop at Sao Domingos 8, A Ginjinha (literally right off the square) which is the oldest ginjinha place in town. Ginjinha is a sour cherry liquor served in tiny cups you drink right outside; we don’t care for it, but it’s been a Portugues favorite for centuries, so you should at least try it.

After you enjoy (or hate) your drink, head to Rossio Square. It was a Roman racetrack 2000 years ago and now is home to the National Theater, rebuilt in the same place as the palace that functioned as the headquarters of the Inquisition but collapsed in the 1755 earthquake. Cross the steps of the National Theatre and look across the street at the Rossio Station, faced with a Neo-Manueline facade built around 1900. Pass uphill by Lisbon’s oldest hotel, the Avenida Palace, a popular meeting place for spies during World War II.

The Praca dos Restauradores has an obelisk at its center which marks Portuguese independence from Spain in 1640. Overlooking the square you’ll see the Art Deco Eden Theater and the beginning of Avenida da Liberdade, the tree-lined grand boulevard connecting the Old Town to the Upper Town. Along this wide boulevard you’ll find hotels, expensive clothing stores, and office buildings. If you still have energy, you can stroll along the boulevard to the statue of Pombal at the end.

Grab a drink at The Queen Ale (if you’re in the mood for a beer), By the Wine, orWines of Portugal Tasting Room (if you’re in the mood for wine) or any of the park kiosks (try a porto tonico).

Then grab dinner at one of our recommended Lisbon restaurants (tonight is a decent night to head to Petisco Saloio or Cervejaria Ramiro).

Day 3 – Belem

After you grab a quick bite for breakfast, make your way to the Belem district, which houses many of the important sites of Portugal’s Golden Age. Belem was the launching point for the many voyages of the Age of Discovery when Vasco da Gama led ships around the globe and turned Portugal in the richest world power. Avoid Belem on Mondays when most everything is closed.

Today is the one day you may want to consider buying the LisboaCard. But it depends which sites you actually want to see, so consider ahead. This card will cover public transportation and offer free entry to many of the sites you’ll see today. You can purchase it at Lisbon’s TIs. On Sunday many sites are free until 14:00, and on Monday they are closed.

You’ve got a few options for getting there: Uber, bus (#28), or train. It’s easy to catch the #15E trolley from Praca do Comercio or Praca da Figueira.

When you arrive, start with the Monastery of Jeronimos. This giant church and monestary was built in the late 1400s and replaced an earlier church on the site where sailors would spend their last night praying before embarking on a voyage. Now a UNESCO Wold Heritage site, it’s one of the best examples of Manueline architecture and the final resting place of Vasco da Gama. It’s worth the additional cost to see the cloisters.

The cloister of Monastery of Jeronimos

With extra time (and interest) stop by the Maritime Museum before leaving the monastery complex. This is full of the navigational tools used during the Age of Discovery.

Next head across the park to the Monument to the Discoveries, a giant monument built for the 1940 Expo (but rebuilt in 1960). The outside is the most impressive part; don’t bother heading inside. The 170-foot concrete structure shows the famous men that launched the Golden Era including Prince Henry the Navigator, King Manuel I, Magellan, and Vasco da Gama. In front of the monument note the marble map which details places Portugal explored.

The Monument to the Discoveries

Walk along the embankment to Belem Tower, which was built in 1515. This was the last thing sailors saw as they left Portugal’s shores and the first they saw when they returned. When it was built, the tower stood mid-river (since then the banks have been moved). The floatplane sitting nearby is a monument to the first flight from Portugal to Brazil.

Grab lunch at Taberna dos Ferreiros, Adega de Belém, or picnic in the park and finish it off with the pastel de nata (the famous custard tart you’ll see throughout Portugal) at Casa Pasteis de Belem, the birthplace of this tart.

After lunch, if you’re interested, make your way to the National Coach Museum. In the early 20th century the last Queen of Portugal donated her collection of royal coaches to a museum as cars came into vogue. Here you can see over 70 opulent carriages, starting from around 1600 and continuing until the 20th century.

The National Coach Museum

Grab a gelato at Santini Belem before heading back to downtown Lisbon.

Take the same bus, train, trolley, or Uber back to downtown Lisbon, or head to one of Lisbon’s best museums the Museum of Ancient Art or Gulbenkian Museum. The Museum of Ancient art houses Portugal’s collection from the 15th and 16th centuries and its Golden Area, housed in a palace. The Gulbenkian Museum is arguably Lisbon’s best museum and has art spanning 5,000 years of history.

If you don’t feel like seeing a museum today, instead head to the Bario Alto and Chiada neighborhood for your last neighborhood exploration and walk.

The walk starts at Miraduoro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara with a beautiful (and different) view of the city. The kiosk in this park has picturesque drinks and is a great spot for a stop. Next head to Sao Roque Church which was built in the 16th century and was one of Portugal’s first Jesuit churches. From here, head down the Rua Nova da Trinidade to Lisbon’s oldest beer hall, the Cervejaria da Trindade and its beautiful 19th century tile work. Down the hill at #16 you’ll find Lisbon’s largest used bookstore.

At Largo do Carmo you’ll find (along with jacaranda trees) the headquarters of the National Guard and the ruins of Convento do Carmo, destroyed in the 1755 earthquake. This cathedral was left standing with Gothic arches pointing towards the sky. It’s an enjoyable stroll along the open air nave.

Convento do Carmo

Next head along the right side of the convent to the top of the Elevador de Santa Justa, built by Gustav Eiffel (yes, the same one who designed the Eiffel Tower). This elevator connects the lower and upper parts of the town. From the top of the elevator you’ll get another fine view of the city.

Now head to the Chiado district. Start at the Cafe A Brasileira, an 100 year old Art Nouveau coffeehouse frequented by artists in the 1920s. The district you are now in is full people, sidewalk cafes, and shops so wander along the mosaic sidewalks of Rua Garrett and enjoy.

From here, head back to the outdoor bar behind the Convento do Carmo for a pre-dinner drink.

For dinner, select from the Lisbon Restaurant Scene.

Day 4 – Sintra

Grab a pastry and a coffee and head to the Rossio train station to grab your train to Sintra. Just 15 miles north of Lisbon, Sintra was the seat of Portugal’s aristocracy for many centuries. It’s a beautiful area speckled with castles and mansions set amidst hills and dense forests. Be sure to purchase your train and tour tickets ahead of time online. The Pena Palace ticket will be timed and you MUST arrive on time.

Plan to spend most of your day here. Monday is a great day to go when things are closed in Lisbon. Purchase your ticket to Sintra at one of the digital kiosks and board your train for the approximately 40-minute ride. Try and get an early start to maximize your time (the buses begin running in Sintra at about 9:30).

There are four primary sites. You can choose to see them all or pick your favorites.

When you exit the station, you can purchase an all-day bus ticket (it will be obvious when you exit the station, #434) which will get you to all sites. Alternatively you can grab a motorized tuk-tuk which will take you directly to each site for 10-20 euros each trip (can seat 2-4).

We recommend you start at Pena Palace as it’s the most popular and gets the most crowded. Once you get off the bus, you have a choice to take a second bus (which is pricey) or walk 10 minutes uphill to the palace. Exploring Pena Palace feels like walking into a fairytale. In the 19th century, the royal prince rebuilt the 12th-century monastery on the site into an opulent and colorful palace.

Pena Palace

After Pena Palace walk back down the hill, following the trail to the Moorish Castle (about a 15 min walk). If you cannot walk, you will want to do the Moorish Castle first to make best use of the bus or tuk-tuk (the road is one-way and the first stop is the Moorish Castle). The Moorish Castle encompasses 1000-year old ruins set in a forest. Originally built by the Moors, it was taken by Portuguese Christian forces in 1147. Enjoy walking along the ancient walls with spectacular views.

From the Moorish Castle, the next stop along the bus route is the National Palace. The palace dates from Moorish times, however most of what you see dates from the 15th and 16th centuries. It’s the oldest surviving palace in Portugal and housed royalty for 500 years; it is still used for official events.

The Moorish Castle

We recommend ending at Quinta da Regaleira, a 1912 mansion and garden with secret passageways. You can either catch bus #435 (included in your bus ticket) or a tuk-tuk to make your way over. It was designed by an Italian opera set designer and the gardens feel dramatic and over-the-top. While you can duck into the mansion, the real highlight is the gardens. Follow the map you’re given at the entrance, and enjoy exploring the caves, tunnels, and turrets. There is a good cafe here for lunch.

The initiation well at Quinta da Regaleria

Once you finish these sites, return to Lisbon. If you haven’t yet explored each neighborhood, now is your chance or use the late afternoon to visit any site you haven’t seen yet.

For dinner, select from the Lisbon Restaurant Scene.

Day 5 – Evora

You have a choice you can make today. You can either train to Evora and spend one more night in Lisbon (which we found easier), or you can pick up your rental car and spend the night in Evora. Regardless, you will drive to the Algarve tomorrow so it’s truly up to you. If you opt to drive and spend the night, adjust your plans accordingly.

In the morning, catch the train to Evora. The train takes about 1.5 hours (check the schedule to catch the more direct and shorter train). Grab the train from the station Entrecampos. You can find the schedule at rome2rio and purchase tickets ahead online here. It’s an easy ride with assigned seats, and you can show the ticket on your phone to the train conductor once you’re on (no need to print).

Evora is inland, pretty close to the Spanish border in the arid province of Alentejo. Evora has been a place of importance for over 2000 years. You’ll pass cork groves as you wind towards the city, which will rise as as a whitewashed town in front of you. It’s most famous for the charming town, cathedral with a chapel of bones, and Roman temple. The old town is strictly preserved as a World Heritage Site. Evora started as a wealthy Roman town before it fell into Moorish hands and became the region’s capital. During Portugal’s 15th-16th century heyday, Evora was a site for nobility.

When you arrive, it’s a 15 minute walk to the old town from the small train station. If you can arrive by 10am, we recommend the 90-minute city walking tour out of the TI which happens daily (email or call ahead to make sure the tour is running). All of the sites in Evora are within a very short walk of the main square, Praca do Giraldo. Plan about 5-6 hours to thoroughly enjoy the city which will allow you time to go into sites, have a meal, and wine taste.

You’ll pass the pretty public gardens, Jardim Publico, as you walk into town, nice for a late afternoon rest stop or drink. Start by visiting the Church of St. Francis and the Chapel of Bones. The church itself, while boasting nice 18th-century tile work and gold from Brazil, is overshadowed by the adjacent chapel. It’s exactly what it sounds like: a chapel made of human bones. The inscription at the entrance states “We bones in here wait for yours to join us.” Concerned by the opulence and materialism of the laypeople, monks in the 1600s ransacked local churchyards and built the chapel to remind everyone of their mortality. Stare at the multitude of skulls, femurs, and pelvises, artfully stacked to form a decorated chapel.

Church of St. Francis and the Chapel of Bones

From the chapel, visit the Public Market directly across the square in front of the church. It will be busiest in the morning, but a nice place to see the local farmer’s market scene.

Walk to the Praco do Giraldo, Evora’s main historical square, named after the knight who retook the city from the Moors in 1165. The area behind the TI was the Jewish quarter. In front of the church on the square is a 16th century fountain, now a popular hangout. The TI is inside the palace where King John III lived during the 16th century. He was a fervent believer in the Inquisition and many people were killed on the square out front. You can choose to grab lunch at any of the restaurants on this square or continue a bit further.

Leave the square on Rua 5 de Outubro to the first corner, then turn left along Alcarcova de Cima to see a portion of the Roman wall built into the buildings on the right where you can see the Roman wall through a series of windows. This wall used to surround the inner core of the town. Grab a pastry at Cafe Arcada and across the intersection is the town’s old aqueduct from the 16th century. Walk straight on to Travessa de Sertorio to the square Praca de Sertorio and the Town Hall (the tall white building on the square). Inside the town hall in the corner on the right you can see a Roman bath.

From the town hall turn right, passing a church and convent built into a Roman tower. Walk under the arcades past the post office and turn left on Rua de Dona Isabel, where you’ll see a Roman Arch, Porta de Dona Isabel, which was once the main gate in the Roman wall. You can see some of the original Roman pavement stones below. Through the arch is the neighborhood called Mouraria which is where the Moors lived after Giraldo the Fearless retook Evora. From here turn and walk uphill, turn right at the tower called Cinco Esquinas, and walk one block along Rua A.F. Simoes to Evora’s high point and square on which the Roman Temple stands near a viewpoint and public garden.

Evora’s Roman Temple

The Roman temple has 14 Corinthian columns still standing and was part of the Roman forum and main square in the first century A.D. At night it’s floodlit. From the square you can see Igreja dos Loios dos Duques de Cadaval, a church built on the remains of a Moorish castle with an opulent gold altarpiece. The Museum of Evora is where the Roman forum once sat and you can see an excavated section in the museum’s courtyard. The museum itself contains Roman and medieval artifacts and 16th century European paintings.

Across from the museum in the building with top windows trimmed with yellow is the Tribunal of the Inquisition, which is closed to the public but has a memorial to those killed in front. To the left of the Inquisition headquarters is a street called Rua de Vasco da Gama where da Gama lived at #15. The Cathedral, Santa Maria de Evora, built on the site of a 12th-century mosque (in turn built atop a Visigoth chapel), is the next big site behind the museum. Both the cloister and tower with views of the Alentejo region are worth the entry fee. Finish your tour of Evora by walking down Rua 5 de Outubro across from the cathedral’s entrance. This is Evora’s best shopping street for local products from the region.

The roof of Santa Maria de Evora

With extra time you can visit the university (established in 1559). It’s less impressive than the one in Coimbra (which you will see later on this trip) but still has pretty architecture and tile work. If you have a car, you can also head 20 minutes out to Cromeleque dos Almendres, which is effectively Portugal’s Stonehenge, dating from 2000 BC.

Good options for lunch and/or dinner include Fialho, Taska Fina, Restaurante Cervejaria 1/4 Para As 9, Dom Joaquim, Origens, and Botequim da Mouraria. It is recommended to make a reservation ahead of time, even for lunch.

Alentejo wines are legendary. While in Evora you should absolutely take advantage of trying them. Head to the Rota dos vinhos do Alentejo for a great wine tasting experience. Another option is Convento Cartuxa, just outside of town.

If you want to stay in Evora, consider Convento dos Loios, M’Ar De Ar Aqueduto hotel, Albergaria do Calvario, Convento do Espinheiro Hotel & Spa, or M’Ar De Ar Muralhas.

If you are not staying in Evora, grab a late afternoon or early evening train back to Lisbon. Then select from the Lisbon Restaurant Scene for dinner.

Day 6 – Salema

Today you head to one of the best parts of Portugal, the Algarve. It’s warm, sunny, and sandy along the south coast and stretches for about 100 miles. Along the way are beach resorts galore flanked by rolling green hills. The far east (Tavira) is mostly lagoon estuaries. The center (from Faro to Lagos) is where you find most of the beach resorts. The far west (Sagres) has dramatic cliffs as well as some great beaches.The best weather is May to October. If the weather isn’t great or you’re visiting in off season you may want to park yourself in Tavira, which has more of a substantial historic town, or skip the Algarve altogether as its charm is the sunny beaches.

Salema Beach

We recommend 3 days and urge you to slow down and relax along a picture perfect beach. However, if you really hate relaxing on vacation (though you may feel differently after you get to the Algarve), you could reduce this to two nights.

You’ll have to choose where to base yourself for the next 3 days, but our recommendation is Salema. There are some incredible (and expensive) resorts in the central Algarve, so if you opt for one of those we can’t blame you, but Salema is truly charming and feels less overrun with tourists than other areas. Salema is made up of a small beachside town, fantastic seafood restaurants, and few good bars as well as a spectacular wide sandy beach.

Head out of Lisbon by mid-morning to give yourself time to stop in Lagos along the way. It’s about a 2.5 hour drive to Lagos. Stroll through the old town between Praca Gil Eanes and the fort. You’ll wander along whitewashed buildings crowding pedestrian streets, bars and restaurants, and craft shops. The good beaches with impressive rock formations jutting up from the sea start just past the fort. Lagos is also a good place to grab a boat tour. Bom Dia offers a couple tours by sailboat to see the famous Benagil Caves and Dolphin Seafaris will take you out to see dolphins. The best beaches (if you want a glance at the Instagram-famous rocks) are Praia do Camilo and Praia do Pinhao.

Next drive another 30 minutes to Salema. Check into your lodging. We recommend Romantik Villa which is fantastic and has a lovely pool (plus you can do your laundry, though note that it’s an uphill walk from the beach), but also consider A Mare and Salema Beach Village.

Spend the rest of your afternoon at Salema’s beach, soaking in some sun.

For dinner try Bóia Bar, Agua na Boca, Atlantico, Em Lume Brando, or Restaurante O Lourenco. Head to one on your way to the beach to make a reservation.

Day 7 – Salema

Today, simply enjoy the beach. Salema is a fishing village so you’ll see colorful boats down on the east edge of the beach. You may catch some fishermen mending their nets if you park yourself nearby. You can rent beach items including a lounge chair, sunshade, and boogie boards, at the Atlantico restaurant situated on the beach. You can also grab beach drinks and snacks at their kiosk.

At very low tide you can head over the rocks on the west end to Figueira Beach but head back before the tide comes up. If you feel up for a hike, there are some nice ones that leave from Salema beach and head out to nearby villages like Figueira.

Grab an afternoon drink either on the deck of Atlantico or at one of the few bars in town: Gin Bar/Bar Atabua or Bar Aventura.

For dinner, try a place you didn’t try the night before.

Day 8 – Salema

Spend the morning venturing out to Sagres (17m drive). Sagres is split into two capes: Cape St. Vincent with a lighthouse which was thought of in Roman times as the end of the world, and Cape Sagres with its fort. Cape Sagres holds much more interest.

Sagres itself is gritty and not very interseting. Bypass it and head to Fortazela de Sagres, the site of Henry the Navigator’s school. In 1420, Prince Henry the Navigator built this school to teach the skills necessary for exploration. You’ll wander through an 18th-century fortress built atop the school’s battlements, a large circle that is thought to be a wind compass, original dorms, and a 16th-century Church of our Lady of Grace. The school taught shipbuilding, sailing, astronomy, mapmaking, mathmatics, zoology, botany, languages, and anthropology for its varied students (across cultures, races, and religions). Magellan, Da Gama, Cabral, and Dias may have all studied at Sagres. Christopher Columbus even ended up here after being shipwrecked and he stayed on to study sailing with the Portuguese. Walk out along the paths where you’ll see beautiful beaches and fisherman casting long lines into the sea.

The view from Henry the Navigator’s school at Sagres

If you want to try another sandy beach between Salema and Sagres head to Ingrina or Zavial. If you don’t feel like exploring further (and really we don’t blame you), head directly back to Salema and get takeout at Casa Pizza for a beach picnic before spending the rest of your day relaxing.

For dinner, eat at a place you haven’t yet tried.

Day 9 – Obidos

Spend your morning on the beach of Salema. Then tear yourself away to start the 3.5 hour drive to Obidos. Aim to arrive at Obidos by the afternoon.

Obidos is small and very charming, but can become a bit overrun by tourists in summer. The tourists tend to pour in during the day and leave by evening, so it’s more tranquil during the late afternoon and evening. Obidos looks like it’s out of a postcard. It has an intact 14th century wall, small narrow cobbled lanes, balconies spilling over with bougainvillea, and a castle. It was originally founded by Celts in 300 BC and over the years was ruled by Romans, Visigoths, Moors, and Portuguese. Obidos is protected by the government as a national monument. It’s known as both the Wedding City (originally it was gifted to a queen for her wedding) and a City of Literature (you’ll see book-themed items around town).

Obidos

Stay at lodgings outside the city wall. It’s a quick walk inside and will save you the headache of parking. We liked Casa Picva, but you can also splurge and stay at Pousada Castelo Óbidos (the castle itself).

The main thing to do in Obidos is to wander. Aim to walk the 45-foot-high old walls around sunset when the light hits the town perfectly and you can watch the pink sky from the battlements. To explore the main town, start at the Main Gate where you’ll see blue and white tiles depicting battles. The lanes split in two once you’re through. The top lane (Rua Direita) is full of small shops and leads straight to the castle. Start with the lower lane (R. Josefa D’Obidos) and peek in the Church of St. Peter.

Next head uphill to the main street and walk towards the castle until you reach the Town Square and the Church of St. Mary of Obidos (great tile work). Right outside behind the terrace bar is the Misericordia church, built as part of the queen’s charity institution where you can see one of the town’s religious floats that’s carried through town during Holy Week. Keep walking towards the castle. The best bar along the way (if you want to try the town’s famous ginjinha) is Bar Ibn Errik Rex at #100. The big white church at the end of the main drag is a large bookstore. At the castle (which is now a fancy hotel) take in the grand views. In 1148 Afonso Henriques captured this castle (and city) from the Moors.

For dinner try Jamon Jamon or A Nova Casa de Ramiro.

Day 10 – Nazare, Alcobaca, Batalha, Tomar

Today is busy, and we recommend you start early.

After breakfast drive to Nazare (about 40 minutes).Nazare is an Atlantic coast fishing and resort town. If you’re going to skip Salema you might want to spend a beach day/night here instead. Park, then wander to the huge swath of beach and amble along it. Towards the harbor you can see a few restored traditional boats. The town market (Mercado Municipal) is about 1 block up from the beach and a decent place to pick up picnic supplies.

Once you’re done with the beach, walk to the base of the funicular (follow signs that say ascensor) and get a roundtrip ticket (or you can walk down, takes about 15 minutes). Once at the top you’re in Sitio, a neighborhood that used to be a totally separate village. The best part of Sitio is the views. Exit the elevator and turn left, heading to the main square and promontory. In this square you’ll see the Church of Our Lady of Nazare with a black Madonna brought by the last Visigoth king in AD 714. From the edge of the square you can see Nazare below. The pillar is a memorial for Vasco da Gama erected in 1497 when he stopped in Nazare before leaving for India. You’ll likely see older women in traditional petticoats selling sweets or barnacles in the square. If you want, walk 10 minutes down the road to the Farol lighthouse. If you look over to the right you’ll see one of the great surfing spots in the world where surfers catch 80-foot waves at certain times of the year.

Nazare

If you’re hungry, grab lunch in Sitio at Sitiado or Restaurante O Luis. Then take the funicular down, walk back to your car, and head to Alcobaca (15 minutes away).

Alcobaca is a cute little town, but its big site is its monastery (it is not as impressive as the one in Batalha so if time is tight and you have to pick one, choose Batalha). Buy a combo ticket here for the Alcobaca and Batalha monasteries and the Castle of the Knights Templar in Tomar.

Alcobaca’s Monastery of Santa Maria is a Cistercian abbey and one of the finest examples of Gothic architecture in Portugal (as well as the country’s largest church). Built in 1178 by Afonso Henriques, it became a cultural center in the 13th century. Visit the church, tombs, and cloisters. If you’re hungry after visiting, stop for a snack at Pastelaria Alcôa which wins awards for their pastries.

From Alcobaca drive to Batalha (25 minutes). The town isn’t as nice the but, the monastery is more impressive. Also called the Monastery of Santa Maria, this might be Portugal’s finest piece of architecture. Named after a battle for Portugal’s independence in 1385, this remains a symbol of Portugal’s national pride. Make sure you see the highly unusual unfinished chapels, a large open-air chamber whose construction was never completed.

The unfinished chapels at the Monastery of Santa Maria

From Batalha drive to Tomar (35 minutes). Tomar is a charming town, settled in Roman times, set under the Castle of the Knights Templar and Convent of Christ. The Knights Templar built the castle about 800 years ago, and it’s where knights would go to be blessed before they faced the Moors in battle. Henry the Navigator was its grandmaster and lived here for a few years. The main attraction is the oratory from the 12th century.

Once you’re finished, grab a drink along the bank of the Nabao River or in the Praca da Republica (the old square) before your final push to Coimbra (50 minutes).

In Coimbra, check into your lodging. We highly recommend Sapientia Boutique Hotel, however, if you want to avoid driving in the old town consider Quinta das Lagrimas.

For dinner head to Fangas Maior, Fangas Veg, Restaruante Ze Manel dos Ossos, Solar do Bacalhau, Spaghetti Notte, or Casas do Bragal.

Day 11 – Coimbra

Take your time today enjoying Coimbra. Coimbra is a very charming university city with a fantastic old town. It’s built on a hill, so be prepared to spend a significant amount of time walking up and down to see the sites and get to eateries. The old town is comprised of an upper town (Alta) and lower town (Baixa) divided by the pedestrian street Visconde da Luz.

Start your day at Coimbra University (unless you are staying out of the old town, in which case we’d work from the river up). The university, Portugal’s most respected, was founded in 1290 and occupies part of the former royal palace. Start by passing by some stark fascist architecture (built by the dictator António de Oliveira Salazar in the 1940s) and through the Iron Gate to the courtyard and take in the view of Coimbra. From the courtyard you’ll see the Grand Hall, St. Michael’s Chapel, and King Joao’s Library. In the middle is a statue of King Joao II, who modernized Portugal’s education system and empowered the church. The black capes still worn by students are derived from the old Jesuit robes. Make time to see each site (and buy a combo ticket ahead of time online).

The University of Coimbra’s Great Hall

The great hall is the site of the university’s academic ceremonies and was originally the throne room of the palace. At the end of the grand hallway you can walk through a door to an observation gallery with the best city views of Coimbra and where you can see all of the famous sites from above. Head downstairs to the old university courtyard which, though originally royal quarters, is now classrooms. St. Michael’s Chapel, built in 1517, is in the Manueline style. The organ has unique horizontal trumpet pipes.

King Joao’s Library is the most remarkable part of the university. It’s easily one of Europe’s best libraries, fully Baroque with over 40,000 books. You need reservations to see it; only a certain number of visitors are allowed in at each time slot. You’ll first walk through the academic prison, then a floor of overflow books before you enter the library itself for ten minutes (soak them up; it’ll go by fast!). Your ticket also includes the science museum which is marginally interesting and houses old science gear.

From the university, head out through the Iron Gate and turn left down the stairs. If you are interested in visiting the Machado de Castro Museum, now is a great time. This museum is most interesting for exploring the understructure of the ancient Roman forum on which the palace was built. Coimbra started as the Roman city of Aeminium 2000 years ago. Upstairs you can see a good display of art spanning the last 2000 years.

Then walk down towards the old cathedral. This cathedral was built upon a Visigoth church turned Moorish mosque in 1184. From the old cathedral, take the steep stairs leading down on the right of the small square down to the Rua Quebra Costas (Street of Broken Ribs), passing by gift shops to a little square with a statue of Tricana, a woman in a traditional folk dress. Across the street from her is the Fado ao Centro which offers very good Fado performances (the traditional music of Portugal, occurs at 18:30, reservations recommended).

From here stick to the right and pass under a set of double arches, the Arco de Almedina, which was part of the original old town wall. Through the arches you’ll end up back on the main pedestrian street. Turn right and wander down the pedestrian street to the Church of Santa Cruz with an impressive grand façade. In this church you can find the tomb of the first Portuguese king, Afonso Henriques, who reclaimed most of Portugal from the Moors. Next to the church is the Café Santa Cruz which was originally a coffeehouse until the 1830s.

Sunset over Coimbra

Continue past the church and the city hall until you reach a busy street and turn right, walking one block to the Jardim da Manga. In the 1500s this garden was for the monastery. You can still enjoy its pretty fountain and eat at its convenient restaurant. If you want to see the modern covered market, head another few blocks uphill past the former post office. Otherwise turn around and head the way you came, back past the cathedral down to the other end of the street, down the stairs on your right (under a graffiti portrait) to the Praca do Comercio. This was originally outside of the city walls and was the original place of commerce, now bookended by two churches and with restaurants spilling onto the square.

Climb back up the steps, and turn right to the end of the street and the Largo da Portagem along the river. Stop for a pastry at the Pastelaria Briosa before wandering to the Santa Clara Bridge. The far end offers a great view of Coimbra and both sides offer a pretty walk. If you don’t want to cross, simply gaze up at the town and contemplate the walk up you now have in front of you.

For dinner choose a restaurant you didn’t try the day before.

If you want to hear fado, you can either attend a more polished performance at Fado ao Centro or head to Cafe Santa Cruz to catch their 22:00 show.

Day 12 – Duoro Valley

Drive to the Duoro Valley (about 2 hours) and head to a quinta—a manor house converted to a winery—to wine taste. The Duoro Valley is a beautiful region that is also the birthplace of port wine (though it makes excellent wines of other varietals, too). It has a unique topography of steep terraced hills looming above the Duoro River.

There are over 4,000 vintners in the region, but these are some great options to taste: Quinta da Vallado, Quinta da Pacheca, Quinta de Marrocos, Quinta da Gricha, Quinta do Nápoles, and Quinta de la Rosa. We recommend making reservations. Some places have easy online forms, others you can simply email. Most of the quintas offer a tour/tasting combo which will take you on a tour of their property and cellars as you learn about wine and port that made this region famous.

Sunset over the Duoro Valley

We recommend spending 2 nights in this relaxing, gorgeous region. Many of the quintas have lovely pools and activities to fill your time. But if you’re short on time, you could choose to stay only one night. After wine touring a quinta, head to the one you’re staying at. We highly recommend Ventozelo Hotel & Quinta, but other good options include Quinta Da Corte, Quinta da Gricha, and Casa do Visconde de Chanceleiros.

Spend the rest of your afternoon by the pool or hiking around the property. The quintas provide dinner, so have a leisurely one before sitting outside with a glass of port wine, enjoying the stars.

Day 13 – Duoro Valley

Today is leisurely. A morning cruise will float you up and down the river, where you can take in the terraced hills on either side. It may be worth it to spring for the more private cruise, as the heavily populated ones can be loud. A few good companies include Rota do Douro and Tomaz do Douro, but your quinta may have a recommendation and set it up for you.

Wine tasting in the Duoro Valley

Spend the rest of the afternoon tasting wine at your quinta, hiking, taking a jeep tour around the property, or simply relaxing with a book by the pool. The wine tasting atVentozelo Hotel & Quinta was excellent and perfect to do right after lunch.

Again have dinner at your lodging.

Day 14 – Porto

In the morning drive to Porto (2 hours and 20 minutes). There is an inexpensive parking lot that is probably your best bet directly behind the Sao Bento station on the right (map here).

Porto is Portugal’s second-largest city and the capital of the north. It’s smaller than Lisbon but very charming and explorable in a busy day. You’ll still see the red-tiled roofs and pretty tiled walled building that rise above a river. It’s also a base for port wine drinking across the river in Vila Nova de Gaia.

Start your tour at the Sao Bento train station itself. This station’s main hall has some of Portugal’s best tile work on display. From the station head to Porto’s cathedral and the viewpoint from the square in front. After taking in the view and cathedral, walk to the upper level of the Luis I Bridge which crosses over to Villa Nova de Gaia. You’ll get an amazing view of the Ribeira waterfront below from the middle of the bridge (but save visiting the Port Wine Lodges until tomorrow).

Porto

Next retrace your steps back to the train station. From the station walk up to the Praca da Liberdade along Avenida Dos Aliados. This is Porto’s main urban drag. The wide boulevard is lined with art nouveau and art deco buildings, and the large city hall tops the square, Praca da Liberdade. Note the statue of King Pedro IV who advocated for a limited constitutional monarchy in Portugal. It’s hard to miss the fancy McDonald’s on the right of the square, built on the site of the Imperial Cafe.

Next, walk one block up Avenida dos Aliados and along the little street Rua do Dr. Artur de Magalhaes Basto, which turns into Rua da Fabrica, a cute shopping lane. Two great shops include Oporto Craft Market at #125 and Mercado na Invicta at #15. Keep walking up the street until you end at a triangular square called Praca Guilherme Gomes Fernandes. If you’re ready for a sweet stop, try Padaria Ribeiro on this square. From the pastry shop, follow the trolley tracks around the right to Praca de Gomes Teixeira and Praca de Parada Leitao.

In Praca de Gomes Teixeira you’ll see the Fountain of Lions and the University of Porto. There is an art deco building, the Armazens Cunhas department store, which was famous in the early 20th century. Next to the store is Carmo Church (technically two churches in one) covered in blue tiles. The two churches are divided by the world’s narrowest house that served as a secret meeting place for Carmelite order members.

Praca de Parada Leitao stretches downhill from the church. On the left side of the street you can stop at Lello & Irmao Bookstore with a fancy art nouveau interior. J.K. Rowling reportedly based some of the Harry Potter world on this shop. Because of that fame, there is usually a line and a small cost to get in (though you get a voucher towards a book purchase). To the right of the street is Praca de Lisboa Park, a lovely park built to camouflage a parking garage (also a fun place for an evening drink). On the downhill side of the park is Clerigos Church, with an impressive tower you can climb for a view of the city.

Lello & Irmao Bookstore

From the church, follow the trolley tracks downhill back to Avenida dos Aliados and continue back one more block back to the Sao Bento train station. Cross the street, turn left and take the right fork to Rua das Flores, a traffic-free street. This street is lined with outdoor cafes and small artisan shops. This street was once the end of the Jewish quarter and lined with jewelry shops. The street ends at an old Dominican convent and Largo de Sao Domingos.

Cross the street and walk down Rua do Dr. Sousa Viterbo to Praca do Infante Dom Henrique where you’ll see a statue of Henry the Navigator pointing to the sea. On this square you can head into the Stock Exchange Palace, which is the current home of the Commercial Association of Porto. To see the beautiful interior you’ll have to take the 45-minute guided tour. Also on this square is Sao Francisco Church to the left of the palace with a lovely interior.

Continue walking down the street directly downhil from the Henry the Navigator statue. On the left you’ll pass the house he was supposedly born in (not worth going in) and then come out at the Ribeira, Porto’s waterfront. Walk down the riverbank. Note the Ponte Dom Luis I bridge to your far left. Across the river see the Vila Nova de Gaia, the port wine district which receives barrels of wine floated downriver from the quintas in rabelos (flat bottomed boats). Until recently wine was only legally port if aged in Gaia (though now can be aged where it’s grown).

Behind you are the skinny tall houses along the river. Until the 20th century the water came right up to these buildings, which served as part of a working port. Now the bottoms of these buildings are filled with restaurants. Grab a drink at one of them, soaking in the river view. Continue along the waterfront to Praca da Ribeira which has classic Porto houses to the left and a fountain of St. John the Baptist in the center. If you’re ready for some port, try the Portologia Wine Bar.

From here, head up to Porto’s shopping neighborhood along Rua de Santa Catarina (parallel to Avenida dos Aliados).

For dinner, try Cantinho do Avillez, LSD, Restaurant Traca, MUU Steakhouse, O Paparico, Bistro Flores, Brasão Cervejariam, or Restaurante Casario.

We recommend a few hotels: InPatio Guest House, Torre Avant Garde, Torel 1884, and Porto A.S. 1829 Hotel.

Day 15 – Porto to Lisbon

If you can, plan to fly out of Porto. If this is not possible, we’ll explain how to change your itinerary accordingly.

In the morning, make your way out to the Foz neighborhood and Praia da Luz beach. This area is the upscale Atlantic beach neighborhood and a pretty escape from city center. You can drive out (there’s easy parking along the park/beach) or take Trolley #1 which you can pick up in the Ribeira and get off at the Jardim do Passeio Alegre (about a 10 minute walk to the Foz district and beach).

Once you arrive, wander through the park Jardim do Passeio Alegre to the beach. You can walk out to one of the lighthouses to watch fishermen casting their lines. If you want, you can also visit the Serralves Foundation Contemporary Art Museum while you’re out here, which is set in an Art Deco mansion and surrounded by a pretty park. Otherwise, grab lunch at Praia da Luz, enjoying the views of the ocean.

After you head back to Porto, make your way to Vila Nova de Gaia. You can get there by walking across the Ponte Dom Luis I bridge. This is the heart of the port wine lodges. It really doesn’t matter which lodge you pick (they’re all fairly similar). You can walk in for a tour or arrange a time in advance. Tours generally involve a walk through the warehouse and a few tastings. Barao Fladgate is a pricey restaurant with a stunning view at Taylor’s Wine Lodge if you’re still hungry.

For dinner, choose a place you didn’t try the night before.

If you need to return to Lisbon read this. Pick one of the activities in the morning and ready yourself for a 3.5 hour drive back to Lisbon. If your flight is early the next day, drop your car at the airport and plan to stay near the airport at the Meliá Lisboa Aeroporto hotel. If your flight is later in the day, we still recommend dropping your car, staying near the airport, and training or Uber-ing into downtown Lisbon for your hotel and dinner (to avoid parking in the city).

Day 16

Say goodbye to Portugal and fly home.

You might also be interested in