Normandy, Brittany, and the Loire Valley

France

Normandy, Brittany, and the Loire Valley

Visit this lovely corner of France to experience history, fantastic scenery, charming villages, wonderful food, and wine. You could do this trip by bus and train but we strongly suggest renting a car unless you want to add a lot of time and hassle.

Length: 9 days

Transportation: Rental car

Best Guidebook: Rick Steve’s France

Movies / TV: Saving Private Ryan, Band of Brothers, The Longest Day (Normandy); The Messenger (Rouen); The Serpent Queen (Loire Valley)

Books: All the Light We Cannot See (St Malo)

Day 1 – Arrival and Giverny to Rouen

  • Arrive Paris
  • Pick up rental car, drive to Giverny (1 h 13m) (note open May – October)
  • Lunch in Giverny
  • Tour Gardens (get tickets in advance to avoid lines)
  • Drive to Rouen (1 h 3m)
  • Dinner – La Couronne
  • Lodging – Mercure Rouen Center Cathedral (1/1)

Day 2 – Rouen to Honfluer

Day 3 – Honfluer to Bayeux

Day 4 – Normandy Beaches

Day 5 – Mont Saint Michel to Dinan

  • Drive to Mont Saint Michel (1 h 32m)
  • Tour Mont Saint Michel
  • Drive to Dinan (49 m) (park at Place du Guesclin)
    • Note: Dinan market day is Thursday Place du Guesclin
  • Walking tour Dinan
  • Walking tour old city
  • Dinan’s old port
  • Walk along river to Lehon, bike ride, or boat trip on Rance River with time (can rent kayaks / canoes or power boat)
  • Dinner – Colibrì
  • Lodging – Mercure Dinan Port Le Jerzual (1/2)

Day 6 – Saint Malo and Brittany Coast

  • Dinan Market (if Thursday)
  • Drive to Saint Malo (32 m)
  • Day tour St Malo – walk the ramparts
  • Boat to Dinard
  • Walk to Alet
  • Drive to Cancele via coast route / Pointe du Grouin (29m)
  • Drive to Dinan (34 m)
  • More time in Dinan – any desired activity not done yesterday
  • Dinner – La Fleur de Sel
  • Lodging – same place (2/2)

Day 7 – Dinan to Amboise

Day 7 – Loire Chateau

Day 8 – Return to Paris via Chartres…

  • Amboise market (Sundays and Fridays)
  • Drive to Chambord (51m)
  • Chateau Chambord
  • Lunch – in Chateau courtyard
  • Drive to Chartres (1h 32m)
  • Tour Chartres Cathedral
  • Drive to CDG (1h 18m)
  • Lodging CDG airport (pick one – many options)

Day 9 – Fly home or add on another itinerary (such as Paris)

Detailed Itinerary

Day 1 – Arrival and Giverny to Rouen

Today we begin our tour of northwestern France. Pick up a rental car (easy at Charles de Gaulle airport if flying in to Paris) and head to the village of Giverny west of Paris (1 h 13m). The Monet Gardens at Giverny are where Monet spent most of his later life and painted his most famous works. He developed extensive gardens to paint. Parking is just past the village on the left side across the road. The gardens get quite busy so it makes sense to get tickets in advance to avoid the lines at the entrance. With advance tickets cross the road and follow signs for a small lane to “group entry”. This will put you directly into the gardens below the house. The famous lily ponds are to your right as you enter (follow signs) They really are gorgeous. After this head back to the extensive flower gardens below the house then enter the house to look around – and be sure and check out Monet’s collection of Japanese prints and the shop (which was the attached studio where the famous waterlily pictures were painted – to see the paintings visit the L’Orangerie museum just outside the entrance to the Louvre in Paris). There’s a reasonable cafe right at the house exit or several other places in the village to grab lunch.

Garden at Giverny
Monet’s Garden at Giverny

From Giverny hop back in the car and head another hour to Rouen. Rouen was capital of the country of Normandy long before it was part of France. Another of Monet’s famous painting series was of the Rouen cathedral, painted in many different lights / times of day. The town was damaged during World War 2, but much of the old half-timbered houses remain in the old core. We stayed at the Mercure Rouen Center Cathedral, which was in the center of the pedestrian part of the city, less than a block from the cathedral. If you can , try parking at the Cathedral lot as it’s easier to access than the lot under the hotel (which requires you to enter a code on a bollard to enter the pedestrian only area and dodge a lot of pedestrians. But if it’s full, it’s nice to have the hotel lot back-up).

You should have time today to visit the cathedral, which has a lot of history (more than 1000 years or so – Charlemagne visited in the 700’s), but unfortunately has also had a lot of damage through the years. (Including up to 1999 when a winter storm sent a spire crashing through the roof). The current cathedral was built between the 12th and 14th centuries and subsequently damaged by lightning strikes, revolutions, wars (damaged extensively by WW2 bombing) and so has been constantly rebuilt. Be sure and check out the headless statues on the façade (decapitated in wars of religion in 1562). Inside as you wander around be sure and visit Rollo, first duke of Normandy who was a Viking who decided to settle here and started the Norman occupation and development. (About 130 years later later one of his relatives sailed off to conquer England in 1066 – much more about that when we get to Bayeux in a few days). The next tomb over was for the heart of Richard the Lionhearted, famous from the third crusade, died 1199.

Rouen Cathedral

Just around to the left is a courtyard leading to the north transept where there’s a last judgement carving. A bit further down the traffic- free street is a Joan of Arc Museum, in the Archbishop’s palace where Joan was tried and sentenced to death.

For dinner tonight we recommend dining at La Couronne. purportedly the oldest restaurant in France and the place where a lunch eaten by a young Julia Child inspired her career in gastronomy.

Day 2 – Rouen to Honfluer

Start your day with a stroll around Rouen. Head down Rue St Romain to the impressive flamboyant gothic façade of St Maclou church. Take a look around the square and down the street at the impressive half-timbered houses. On the left just past the church take the alley to the left to the Plague Cemetery (Aitre St Maclou). During the days of the black death as many as 2/3 of the population died, and this courtyard surrounded by half timbered buildings was a mass processing area for the dead – bodies were dumped in a pit, treated with lime, and the bones stacked in alcoves above open arcades in the courtyard. The buildings and columns around the courtyard are carved with bones, skulls, and the dance of death. There’s a good cafe here and interesting workshops.

Plague cemetery courtyard building – note carvings above windows.

Head back to the street and continue down the street to the Place St Marc for a colorful market (Sunday, Tuesday, Friday, Saturday). where there’s a selection of fruit, cheese, meat, seafood, vegetables, clothes, furniture, and even mattresses.

Rouen Market
Rouen half timber buildings

From here you can wander back to St Maclou, turn right on Rue Damiette to St Ouen Church then turn left and make your way to the Beaux Arts Museum, with free entrance and some nice impressionist art (including one of Monet’s paintings of the Rouen cathedral). From the museum make your way back to the Palace of Justice (parliament building of Normandy), turn right on Rue Aux Juifs, and head to the View Marche for a small covered market and the modern Joan of Arc Church. This is the site where 19-year-old Joan was burned at the stake. From the square head back down Rue du Gore Horloge. Notice the houses that lean out; this was an adaption to reduce property taxes, which were based on the ground floor footprint. This changed after 1520 so you can date the houses based in this characteristic. Visit the Auzou chocolate shop then continue to the 1528 Great Clock decorating the former city hall. You can enter the clock tower to get a look at the renaissance clock mechanism and a view of the city.

Head back to your car and drive to the Abbey of Jumieges. This Abbey is really old – it was founded in 654, sacked by the Vikings in the 800’s-and rebuilt by William the Conqueror in the 11th century. It was at one time one of the largest abbeys in the world. Destroyed again in the French Revolution, it is now a lovely and awe inspiring ruin.

Abbey of Jumieges

Hop back in the car and head to Honfluer. Depending on what time you arrive you may have time for a self guided tour today – or plan on booking a guided tour for tomorrow morning as we did with Honfluer Tours. In any case Honfluer is thoroughly charming – be sure and head to the Vieux Bassin (old port) and settle in for a lovely drink and views.

Honfleur old port

Honfleur is small and easily walkable. Be sure and see Ste. Catherine Church. This church is unique in that it was the church of the poor fishermen and was built of wood rather than stone, as the stone was being used to shore up the town defenses. The clock tower is separate (for fire purposes) and when the congregation got too large, they just built on a parallel nave.

St Catherine Church

Other diversions in town include the Eugene Boudin Museum (local artist, convinced Monet to get outside and paint), and Museum of Ethnography (located in the old prison, recreated typical rooms from Honfleur’s past). If you have time at some point take the 20-30 minute walk up to the Cote de Grace for a view over the town and a short walk to the charming mariners chapel of Notre Dame de Grace.

We would not miss dinner at Le Breard and we stayed at the very charming La Maison de Lucie.

Day 3 – Honfluer to Bayeux

In the morning continue your explorations of Honfleur then head to Caen and tour the WW2 Museum for background of tomorrow’s attractions. From here continue to Bayeux. Bayeux was largely undamaged by the furious fighting around Normandy and makes a good base for exploring the Normandy beaches and area. It also has one amazing sight – the Bayeux tapestry. Shortly after the Normans defeated Harold at the battle of Hastings this enormous tapestry (231 feet long by 20 inches wide) was embroidered to tell the story of the battle and events leading up to it. It was hung once a year around the nearby Bayeux Cathedral. The fact that the thing managed to survive the French revolution and two world wars is remarkable. Grab the essential audio tour (included with admission) and you walk along the tapestry and see/ hear the story.

From the museum take the short walk to the large Bayeux cathedral and the wander around the small town. There is a nice path along the river in the center of town as well. For dinner tonight choose between La Rapiere or Lion d’Or. Note that many places are closed Sunday and/ or Monday so get reservations / plan ahead. We stayed at the very nice Lion d’Or .

Day 4 – Normandy Beaches

Today is the day to revisit D-Day. Almost 80 years ago the largest invasion in history landed on the broad beaches of Normandy and the 54 miles of coastline in the area. You can drive it on your own but to get an appreciation of the sights we think a guide is essential. We also strongly recommend watching the first few episodes of Band of Brothers and first 20 minutes of Saving Private Ryan, and/or The Longest Day for background. You can grab a minibus tour but if you have your own car hiring a guide to ride with you is more flexible and may not cost much more than a shared tour. We arranged an all day private tour with Normandy Panorama.

Start your day with a visit to the village of Ste. Mere Eglise. Here late in the night of June 5th 1944 / early AM of June 6th paratroopers were dropped as the initial part of the invasion. Because the fields leading in from the Normandy beaches are marshy it was imperative that the paratroopers secured the few causeways leading inland. However, because of awful weather (a storm was still clearing) many of the paratroopers missed their prescribed landing sites and ended up in the village rather than nearby. One of them had his parachute snag on the church and he managed to avoid being shot / captured for a while by “playing dead”. Look up at the church to see a replica hanging there. Inside the small church are two stained glass windows commemorating the paratroopers. The Airborne museum is worthwhile and interesting and includes a full scale glider used to land troops and a C47 used to drop the troops and supplies.

From here head to Utah Beach. At this beach the landing troops had success and took the beach with relatively low losses compared to Omaha. Take a look at the relatively low bluffs – you’ll compare these to what was faced on Omaha. There is an excellent museum here that explains the invasion and a replica of the landing craft.

Utah Beach fortifications

From here drive to the small church at St Angoville-au-Plain. Here a couple of paratrooper medics set up shop in the church and saved many American (and German) lives. Some of the pews still have blood stains and there are a couple of commemorative stained glass windows.

Next stop is Pointe Du Hoc. This is the high point along the whole coast and was known to have extensive fortifications and batteries with some enormous guns. Army rangers scaled the formidable cliffs in just 30 minutes to take control of the heights. The area was extensively bombed in preparation but the fortifications were so well designed that they remained largely intact and the rangers fought for three days on top of this bombed landscape until relief arrived, but they did accomplish their goal of destroying the cannons

Cliffs at Pointe du Hoc

From here drive to Omaha beach. On this beach, unlike Utah, almost everything went wrong. The bombing of the gun emplacements was ineffective due to weather, and the troops had a LONG slog across the beach under intense gunfire. The bluffs here are far higher than those at Utah and meant a long (literal) uphill battle. The fact that they we are able to take the beach at all is amazing. You may see horses and buggies racing along the broad sands – harness race training takes place all along the Normandy beaches

From Omaha, drive up to the moving American Cemetery atop the bluffs above Omaha Beach. Tour the worthwhile visitor’s center then out to the fields of identical white crosses. 25,000 Americans died in the battle for Normandy.

If you have time and inclination after your Normandy day consider a stop for Calvados (apple brandy – famous from this area) at the nearby Cidrerie Viard-Bayeux.

Return to Bayuex for dinner at Lion d’Or or La Rapiere

Day 5 – Mont Saint Michel to Dinan

Get an early start to avoid the hordes at Mont Saint Michel. It’s an hour and a half drive and best to arrive before 10. (this is one of the most popular tourist sights in the world). Park in the enormous lots and grab a free shuttle bus across the causeway to the island. Mont Saint Michel has been an important pilgrimage site for 1200 years and the sight of it floating above the mudflats of the bay is truly amazing – just like all of the images you have seen.

On arrival you can join the pilgrim (tourist) throngs winding their way up the crowded main street or better veer left just before the island’s main entry gate and walk under the stone arch of the freestanding building and follow the ramp up to the abbey. You also avoid most stairs with this route – though there is plenty of climbing to get to the abbey at the top. It’s a good idea to get advance tickets to avoid the ticket line queue, and you need not show up exactly at the time you selected (pretty much any time in the AM with morning tickets). The audio guide (extra fee) was not particularly helpful – just use Rick Steve’s book and the labels in the rooms. There’s one way to go so you can’t get lost. While the interiors are lacking in furnishings (it was a prison after the French Revolution), the construction of this medieval skyscraper is still awe inspiring.

After your visit to the abbey make your way back down the Main Street.If you brought a picnic to enjoy below the abbey, you thought ahead – otherwise pick one of the many (non memorable) restaurants along the road with good view and grab an omelet for lunch (specialty of the island). After lunch grab a bus back to the car and continue to Dinan (49m)

After leaving Mont Saint Michel you enter the province of Brittany. Dinan is a well preserved walled town and thoroughly charming. The old port on the river Rance is where Dinan got its start and is lovely. We enjoyed staying down here at the Mercure Dinan Port Le Jerzual. It’s a steep 10 minute walk up to the town but had easy parking in a beautiful location. If you have time today you can either head up the hill to explore the old city or rent a bike, kayak, or power boat to cruise along the river. Alternatively, there are boat cruises (check the times when you arrive) along the river you can book. For dinner drive up the hill and park at the Place du Guesclin and grab dinner at excellent Colibrì.

Port of Dinan
Dinan
Dinan

Day 6 – Saint Malo and Brittany Coast

Today we suggest a sort drive around the lovely Brittany coast and a visit to the resort town area of Saint Malo. Start with an easy 32 mile drive to St Malo. There is a large underground parking lot right at the main gate to the town. It’s a good idea to arrive early – especially on weekends or in the summer to be sure and get parking. From here walk up onto the ramparts – which completely encircle the town. There’s several fortifications on the adjacent islands. St Malo was unfortunately badly damaged in WW2 but has been extensively rebuilt. After walking the ramparts climb down about half way around and wander back through the old town streets.

Saint Malo

From Saint Malo you can grab a short boat taxi across the bay to the small beach resort of Dinard and a lovely promenade.

Popping back in the car, if the weather is nice head out to the dramatic Brittany coast. Heading toward Pointe du Grouin, we took a short detour to the Dunes De Chevrets (drive past the campground), where there are some nice walking trails along the headland with views back to the bay on one side and ocean on the other, with a nice beach

Brittany coastline

Continuing along you will see more delightful beaches and the dramatic headlands of Pointe du Grouin with another nice loop walk and views back up the coast to Mont Saint Michel. From here head to Cancele (famous for oysters if you need lunch), then back to Dinan. Grab dinner at La Fleur de Sel.

Day 7 – Dinan to Amboise

Today is the longest (3 h 46m) drive of the trip. Head to Ambiose in the Loire valley. To break up the drive and see another cute town and dramatic castle stop at Fougeres. From the lot walk along the ramparts and stop in the church of St Sulpice for the lovely woodwork interior. Continue up past the water wheels into the newer city at the top of the hill, then loop back down through the public gardens to return to your car.

Amboise is your home base for the next few days. On arrival take some time to wander the town and work your way up to Chateau Clos – Luce at the other end of town from the river. This delightful little chateau is where Leonardo Da Vinci moved from Rome and spent the last three years of his life. There are models of his inventions through the house and gardens.

Clos Luce

Head back down to town. You can tour the Chateau Royal d’Amboise if you have interest and energy for another chateau.

Since you are in the region of the chateaux, why not stay in one? A short distance out of town is the very nice Château de Pray, with lovely grounds and a Michelin Star restaurant where you should grab dinner tonight. There’s also a lovely pool so if its warm a great place for a swim.

Chateau du Pray

Day 7 – Loire Chateau

Chenonceau Chateau is the best of the many spectacular Lorie valley chateaus and very popular so it makes sense to get advance tickets and arrive early. Entry tickets are timed and it takes about 20 minutes to drive there and 15 minutes to walk to the door from the parking lot. Chenonceau was built by the wife of a French nobleman, confiscated by the king, given to his mistress Diane de Poitier who expanded it, and then was expanded further by Queen Catherine di Medici, who threw Diane out after the death of the king in a jousting accident. The setting, grounds, and interior are extremely well preserved.

Queens’s bedroom at Chenoceau

Depending on your tolerance for sumptuous chateaus you can see another one or two of the many palaces (or save one for the next morning). We recommend seeing the grandaddy of them Chateau Chambord, and one of the most spectacularly preserved Chateau Cheverny. Both of these are relatively close to one another but are also on the way to Chartres – so easy enough to do one tomorrow (or do both today and throw in a bonus of another tomorrow if you just can’t get enough..).

Cheverny interior

Chateau Cheverny is the smaller of the two and advance tickets are a good idea. Its about a 40 minute drive to get there. This chateau was spared the ravages of the revolution and has completely intact decorations and furnishings. The family still lives here on the third floor. The surrounding grounds are lovely, and be sure and see the kennels where 100 dogs (all the same breed) are kept (for hunting). Even though they are working dogs, they are after all dogs, so mostly you will see them laying around. Right at the entrance there’s the La Maison des Vins where local wine producers offer tastings and sales of the local product.

Not far from Cheverny the granddaddy of Loire valley chateaus is found – Chateau Chambord. This place is HUGE and famous for several things including 440 rooms, 365 fireplaces, and a unique double helix staircase. Amazingly this was just a hunting lodge (the surrounding forest is still full of game) and was empty much of the time. Because it is so large you should not need advance tickets. While several of the rooms are furnished and due to its size it’s certainly awe inspiring, we felt this place lacks the charm of the other chateaus. There is a cafe in the courtyard where you can grab lunch though you might have more interesting selections in the village of Cheverny.

Chambord

After your dose of royal palaces return to Amboise. We suggest dinner at Les Arpents.

Day 8 – Return to Paris via Chartres…

If you happen to be in Amboise on market days it sets up in the long parking lot along the river. If you did not see Chambord yesterday, see it today. If you are very efficient, other Loire chateaus worth seeing include Blois and Chaumond.

Continue on to Chartres (good stop for lunch). There’s nice central parking at Q park cathedral and from here it’s a short walk to the very impressive Chartres cathedral. This is a perhaps the finest gothic church anywhere and has amazing stained glass. The entire story of Christianity can be “read”in the stained glass of the church (which makes sense, as much of the populace was illiterate when the church was finished in 1260. Guided tours (no reservations needed) leave at noon Tuesday to Saturday just inside the church. Otherwise wander on your own and be sure and see the labyrinth, choir screen, stained glass, and Mary’s veil.

From here it should be a relatively short (about an hour) drive to Paris or an hour and 20 minutes to the airport. (We got caught in absolutely awful traffic so it might be worth checking on your map app).

Day 9 – Fly home or add on another itinerary (such as Paris)

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