London

England

London

Welcome to London! A bustling metropolis and one of the great cities of the world, London is home to millennia of history from William the Conqueror to William Shakespeare to Prince William. London has it all: history, art, museums, theater, and even great dining. It is a big and bustling place, but surprisingly pleasant to visit and easy to get around thanks to a great Tube system and world famous cabs. In our itinerary, we cover the highlights for a long weekend but also suggest some nearby excursions if you have extra time. Granted, it is also an almost insurmountable task to try conquering the city in just a few days, so if you have more time that’s better to get to explore all that this incredible city has to offer.

Length: 4+ days

Transportation: Subway (Tube), taxi, boat

Best Guide Book: Rick Steves London

Day 1 – Westminster Abbey to Trafalgar Square

Day 2 – Tower of London and Central London

Day 3 – Changing of the Guard, the British Museum, and High Tea

Day 4 – Southwark

Day 5 – Thames Cruise to Hampton Court and Kew Gardens

Day 6 – Additional Day in London

Best Day Trips

  • Windsor Castle
  • Cambridge
  • Oxford and Blenheim
  • Stonehenge and Bath

In Depth Itinerary

Welcome to London! On this trip you’ll sample the best of the museums, churches, and sights. You can with some difficulty make this trip shorter or very easily make it longer. Without a doubt you could spend a week here and not see everything, so we have focused on the must-see highlights in a few very busy days. Thanks to a great public transport system and/or the famous London cabs you can get around very efficiently. But DO NOT try and drive in London – there is a steep surcharge for driving in the center of the city. If you decide to leave the city and grab a car for outside of town, take a train to an airport and rent from there.

There are 3 airports in London. Stansted is the furthest out. Heathrow is the biggest. Not as much comes through Gatwick. If you arrive by plane, take the tube from Heathrow or buy the faster but pricey express train. The express train option shaves off 20ish minutes but costs twice as much. The tube is the slower option, takes about an hour, and is much cheaper. Both arrive at Paddington Station at which point you will have to change to the Tube anyway. Look for signs when you arrive that point you to the train, and you can buy your ticket from any automated machine. If you arrive into Gatwick take the Gatwick Express Train to Tower stop. If you arrive via train, you’ll arrive to one of the major stations and can switch to the Tube from there.

London is pricey for lodging so shop around and see our London lodging page for some ideas. You might have better luck with an apartment rental. Any time of the year is a good time to visit, but summer does lead to inevitable crowds of tourists and in recent years some very hot weather (many older hotels are not air-conditioned as hot weather has not been much of a problem until recently – so check on that).

Day 1 – Westminster Abbey to Trafalgar Square

Depending on what time you arrive, you may not have time for a full day – but we have set it up as if you do. Feel free to mix and match as needed. Today you’ll start out at Westminster Abbey and set off on foot from there. Westminster Abbey is a church with an incredible amount of history – kings and queens have been crowned and buried here since 1066 (there are 3000 tombs in the church). Visit early to avoid crowds and book online to avoid the entrance line. There is an included audio tour but you can also take a “verger” tour with a docent for a small extra cost. As you wander this magnificent church be sure and visit the tombs of the stars of English history (including Elizabeth I, Mary Queen of Scotts, Sir Isaac Newton ,etc). Marvel at how they can clear the clutter to stage royal weddings and coronations. This is not just another church – this is English history personified.

Westminster Abbey

It is a relatively short walk from the abbey to a truly amazing sight – the Churchill War Rooms. During World War II, much of the war effort was conducted from bunkers beneath Whitehall due to the frequent bombings. Churchill worked and slept here and much of the war effort was directed from these bunkers. After the war ended, the doors were suddenly locked and the bunker remained secret and forgotten until 1984 when the main war rooms opened to the public. Today you can tour the rooms as an essentially undisturbed time capsule from 1945 – including original maps on the walls, cots where the staff slept, and an excellent Churchill museum.

From here it is a short walk to the Houses of Parliament and a view of famous Big Ben clock and clock tower. The Palace of Westminster is the actual name of the houses of parliament and can be visited in a 90 minute tour when Parliament is not in session. The highlight is Westminster Hall, built by the son of William the Conqueror over 900 years ago in 1097.

Big Ben and Houses of Parliament

From Parliament you will head to Trafalgar Square, only a 14 minute walk away. On the way, you will pass the Banqueting House – worth a visit to pop in and see what remains of the original Whitehall Palace and and impressive hall. It was here that Cromwell decapitated Charles I and then later that the monarchy was again restored once Cromwell died.

Continue to wander to Trafalgar Square, the center of modern London. Look up and say hello to Admiral Nelson (naval hero who beat Napoleon) at the top of the giant column. By now it is lunch time (if not past) – so time to grab something to eat. Consider St Martin-in-the-Field‘s Cafe in the Crypt, The Chandos Pub, or Ochre or Muriel’s Kitchen at the National Gallery (High Tea is also available here in the afternoon).

The excellent National Gallery museum is located right on Trafalgar square and should be your next stop. Wander through, passing from Medieval to Renaissance to the Dutch Masters to Baroque to Romanticism to Impressionism with some of the most famous paintings in the world on display. The National Portrait Gallery is right next door. This portrait gallery offers a surprisingly interesting look at the rich and famous (Elizabeth I, Crowell, the Bronte Sisters, Darwin, the Beatles) of English History.

By now you have had a full day and it’s time to grab a drink. Head to nearby Gordon’s Wine Bar. Plan on an earlier dinner tonight. You can stay at Gordon’s or head to nearby The Barbary or Evelyn’s Table so you can make it to a show at one of the famous West End Theaters.

A West End theatre

After your show cab or tube back to your lodging.

Day 2 – Tower of London to Central London

Start your day at the Tower of London. This is another sight that is very busy and can sell out in advance so ideally get a voucher in advance and be there when it opens – usually at 9. Upon arrival pick up the free map/ guide with list of day’s activities and times. Start with the crown jewels, as the queue to see them can be long. You will pass a series of informational videos and exhibit rooms and then climb onto a moving sidewalk that takes you past the actual crown jewel collection (and keeps the crowds moving). You can climb back on for a second viewing if you wish.

Tower of London

From here head back to near the entrance and join a free and entertaining Beefeater tour for a great overview of the fortress (usually leaves every half hour). After that you can take your time to wander and see what you may not have covered. Be sure and see the White Tower museum.

By now it is probably getting to be near time for lunch so head to the Tower Hill tube station and grab the Circle or District line to Embankment station than walk 5 minutes to grab lunch in the Crypt Cafe at St Martin’s in the Fields. Tour the church and try your hand at brass rubbing in the store.

From here either do your own walking tour or chose from one of the afternoon London City Walks. If doing your own, the Rick Steves Historic London: The City Walk is a good one. Start at St Clement Danes built by Christopher Wren and now an RAF chapel and memorial to RAF servicemen. From here visit the Royal Courts of Justice complex, 17 Fleet Street (one of the few buildings to survive the great fires of 1610), Temple Church (a Knight Templar/Crusader Church from 1185), and the Inns of Court – a maze of buildings and courtyards which is a self-contained city of lawyers and law students where you can catch a glimpse of barristers in traditional gowns and wigs. Head down Fleet Street to St. Dunstan-in-the-West, a survivor of the great fire of 1666, and then head through the narrow lanes of post fire 1700’s London to Dr. Johnson’s house and the very traditional Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese Tavern. Grab a pint now or at least pop in for a glimpse of a tavern unchanged for over 500 years. From here, stop by St. Bride’s Church and the Old Bailey on your way to the magnificent St. Paul’s cathedral, Wren’s masterpiece and England’s national church.

Grab a drink at Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese or The Black Friar pub. For dinner, plan for pub fare or try the very good 40 Maltby Street, Restaurant St Barts or select from London restaurant recommendations.

Day 3 – Changing of the Guard, the British Museum, and High Tea

Once while in England, you should experience a Full English Breakfast. Generally this includes eggs, sausage, beans, stewed tomatoes and mushrooms, sometimes black pudding, and always way too much food. Your hotel might offer one, or you can try one at The Wolseley or Regency Café.

To see the very popular Changing of Guard at Buckingham Palace it pays to line up about an hour ahead (guard changes at 11). Afterwards, enjoy a stroll through nearby Hyde Park, a beautiful and relaxing green space in the heart of London. Hyde Park is big, one and a half miles long and a mile wide. It was originally taken over by Henry VIII by the monks at Westminster Abbey for his deer hunting expeditions. The paths are wide and serene and you may pass runners, boaters, horses, or even protesters (at Speaker’s Corner). You could have lunch nearby at Gymkhana or at your next stop, the British Museum.

If you feel like walking, the British Museum is about half an hour away. If you don’t feel like doing this take the Tube or sample another London tradition, the London taxi. London taxis are famous for knowledgable, friendly drivers. The prices are generally reasonable and the cabbies have to pass a test proving an outstanding knowledge of London streets. If a top light is on, just wave it down.

The British Museum is an amazing place – imagine the best archeological artifacts from all over the world gathered into one place and you have an idea of the British Museum. You can easily spend several hours (or days) here and we suggest you do.

In the British Museum

From the museum, wander through Bloomsbury, the heart of literary. Pop into the many varied book stores, including Skoob Books, Judd Books, and London Review of Books. End at the British Library, whose collection of books on display is truly outstanding.

After the library it is time for another classic London experience – High Tea. Many places offer this, pick the one that matches your aesthetic (and budget). You’ll want to arrange reservations in advance. There will be plenty to eat so you may want to forgo full dinner but if you get hungry later consider Noble Rot, Speedboat Bar Kitty Fishers, or a place from our restaurant recommendations.

Day 4 – Southwark

Start your day at Borough Market. The historic market remains a fascinating mix of food stands, stalls both food and artisan, and some amazing eateries. Have breakfast or a very early lunch here at Padella or one of the other amazing options.

The South Bank is one of the London’s best bits. Generally located between the Westminster and London bridges, it offers about two-miles of excellent, largely state-funded arts and entertainment venues alongside breezy, traffic-free views of a succession of city landmarks (Big Ben, St. Paul’s, the Tower of London) that lie on the north bank. No wonder it attracts over 14 million people per year. If you have limited time in the capital, South Bank is great because it has everything, including a selection of good restaurants and street food offerings.

Wander along to the Tate Modern, one of the world’s premiere’s modern art museums. If you’re up for another museum visit the Imperial War Museum which covers the very interesting history of England at war.

Venture at least part way across Millennium bridge towards Big Ben for a great mid-river view of both banks and the Thames running through. If you have your heart set on the London Eye, this is your chance. The Eye is quite expensive and in our opinion not really worth it. London’s not an especially beautiful city to look at from above. It’s not Vienna or Taipei. Architecturally speaking, there’s only so much excitement a visitor can feel about seeing Ally Pally in the distance. There are other places in the city you can get great views of the London landscape and it is a pricey ride, but you’re pretty close by.

By now it’s time for dinner and drinks and we recommend the George Inn, the last of of the original coaching inns (and a haunt of Shakespeare).

Not far from here is your evening’s entertainment – a play at Shakespeare’s Globe. We definitely recommend arranging to see a play here – and if your legs have the fortitude, forgo joining the gentry seated in the galleries and stand as a “groundling” (for a fraction of the cost). Get there early and you can rest your elbows on the stage.

Shakespeare’s Globe

Day 5 – Thames Cruise to Hampton Court and Kew Gardens

If you have more days and the weather is good today head out of London to Hampton Court (Royal Palace of Henry VII) and the Royal Botanical Gardens at Kew. These two sites are outside of London upstream on the Thames and the most pleasant way to see them is on a Thames river cruise. You can easily reach Hampton Court by train and Kew Gardens by Tube but getting between them is a bit of a pain (somewhat long bus ride or short but somewhat pricey cab ride) so it really makes sense to see the two together when there is a boat that connects the two during the spring or summer. Kew is mostly worthwhile in the spring/summer anyway so other times of the year plan on Hampton Court by itself or coupled with Greenwich. Check the boat schedule for Thames River Boats.

Hampton Court was the home of Henry VIII and Elizabeth I and was updated for William and Mary. The Tudor rooms are the most interesting. There are also gardens and a maze down toward the river. Have lunch in the Tudor dining hall then depart for Kew Gardens.

Kew Gardens is a lovely riverside park with a huge diversity of plants and some lovely Victorian greenhouses filled with tropical plants and water lilies. Grab a brochure to see what is blooming. Have a snack at the Orangery cafeteria then head back to London via Tube or boat if the schedule works for your visit.

Choose a restaurant for dinner from our London Restaurant Recommendations.

London at Sunset

Day 6 – Additional Day in London

Start your day at the Greenwich Royal Museums, a world heritage site focused on Maritime exploration and astronomy. There are several separate museums here including the Cutty Sark, a 150 year old fast cargo sailing ship (“clipper ship”), the National Maritime Museum, Queens House gallery, and Royal Observatory (where “Greenwich mean time” starts).

Next visit the Victoria and Albert Museum, the world’s largest museum of applied arts, decorative arts and design, which houses a permanent collection of over 2.27 million objects. The buildings and collections are actually quite interesting and worth a visit.

If you’re interested, you can tour Buckingham Palace today. The current home of the British monarchy, during the winter, spring, and for 10 weeks of the summer you can tour the State Rooms.

Additionally, you can visit one of London’s most charming neighborhoods: Nottingham and it’s quirky Portobello Market. Picture perfect townhouses rise along either side of Portobello Road. There’s something open everyday, but the biggest market is from Friday to Sunday. You can wander along antique shops, food stalls, and new artist shops. It’s also a fun area to grab a bite to eat or drink.

You can finish up your day at Hampstead Heath. Instead of the perfectly manicured downtown London Royal Parks, Hampstead Heath is a wild and overgrown area of countryside just north of Camden Town. It’s said to have inspired C.S. Lewis’ Narnia. The Heath is 791 acres big, full of woods, fields, and swimming ponds, and a perfect place to enjoy sunset.

Instead of these last two days, you could venture further outside of London and take a day trip to Bath, Stonehenge, Cambridge or Oxford.

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