Japan

So many people say Japan is their favorite place they’ve ever visited and it’s not hard to see why. There’s something mystical about exploring its shrines and exhilarating in wandering its city’s streets all while zipping across the country in a train. For a short trip, it’s probably best to stick to Tokyo and Kyoto, but with more time you can explore some of the richer offerings of the country. This three week trip takes you to some of the most most famous places on Japan’s main island.

Length: 21 days

Transportation: train and public transportation

Best Guide Book: Lonely Planet Japan, Moon Japan

Day 1 – Tokyo

Day 2 – Tokyo

Day 3 – Tokyo

Day 4 – Nikko

Day 5 – Nikko

  • Nikko National Park
    • Akechidaira Ropeway
    • Kegon Falls
    • Chuzenji Temple
    • Lake Chuzenji
    • Ryuzu Falls to Yutaki Falls hike (7 miles round trip)
  • Lodging – same place (night 2/2)

Day 6 – Mount Fuji

Day 7 – Mount Fuji

Day 8 – Matsumoto

Day 9 – Matsumoto

  • Explore Matsumoto
  • Optional drive to Myoko-Togakushi renzan National Park (1h33m drive)
    • Okusha Shrine hike (4km round trip)
    • Kamaike Pond
    • Otari Onsen
  • Dinner – at lodging
  • Lodging – same place (night 2/2)

Day 10 – Takayama

Day 11 – Takayama

Day 12 – Shirakawa-go

Day 13 – Kanazawa

Day 14 – Kyoto

Day 15 – Kyoto

Day 16 – Nara

Day 17 – Kyoto

Day 18 – Hiroshima

Day 19 – Tokyo

  • Train to Tokyo (3h50)
  • Fly home

In-Depth Itinerary

A note on luggage transfers – In Japan there is a very efficient way to send luggage from Point A to B called Takkyubin. Typically it takes 24 hours, so if you wanted your luggage to be there on arrival, you would send it the day prior. This can be handy if you want to travel light, or if there may be limited luggage space on the train. Your hotel concierge can help you facilitate this.

Gratuities: In general, tipping is not necessary in Japan. Guests do not have to tip restuarant staff, bellmen, taxi drivers, or housekeeping. While not expected, guides and drivers will always appreciate a tip for their services. Amounts are not fixed and tips should be passed along in a plain white envelope with no markings/ribbons on it.

Onsen Etiquitte: Japanese wash themselves before entering the water. This is true for public baths, onsens, hot springs. There is uusally a common bathing area featuring individual stalls with plastic seats. Genders area always separte and public nudity/bathing is the norm. In public baths do not mistake men and women’s changing rooms as it is extremeley impolite. The men’s rooms are usually on the let with a blue curtain. The women’s room is usually on the right with a red curtain. if you are unsure, ask the staff. Avoid bathing suits in public baths, bathers are always nude. Tattoos are banned in most public baths. If you have one, you should consult the staff at reception beforehead to avoid causing trouble.

Day 1 – Tokyo

Arrive in Japan. From Narita it’s about 1 hour drive into Tokyo, from Haneda it’s about 20 minutes. Either take the subway to your hotel or grab and Uber or taxi (both are very easy to grab from the airport). You may want to grab an IC Transport Card (Suica card) to use for public transport in Tokyo. You can get this card at the station at the airports or at a main train station. These prepaid, rechargeable cards are used for easy travel on trains, buses, and for making purchases at convenience stores throughout Japan and are valid for 28 days.

The best way to approach Tokyo is to pick a few neighborhoods next to each other to explore in a day. The city is huge and while public transportation is easy, it’s better to group your sites because they can be far apart. You do not strictly need a guide (Tokyo is easy to navigate and with a guide book you’ll have access to the history) but if you want a guide, we had good luck with Chris Rowthorn Tours and Maction Planet. Additionally, Japan provides a service known as Good Will Ambassadors which are totally free guides throughout Japan. You must arrange these in advance and, as they are volunteers, the quality of English can vary. These guides do not accept cash tips, but it is polite to bring a small gift from your home country to give to them.

We’re not convinced it really makes a difference of where you stay in Tokyo. It’s so huge, you’ll have to travel anywhere out of the neighborhood you pick. My biggest recommendation is pick a place near a metro/train stop which will make your life easier. Ginza and Shibuya are popular options (there’s good dining and shopping nearby). I’d avoid staying anywhere near Chinatown as that area is a bit rougher/dicier. Do not stay out near Disney Sea unless your trip is centered around Disney. But ultimately it’s a bit up to you. Hotel rooms (even the nicer ones) tend to be small – adjust your expectations. Tokyo does have AirBNB but, as I cannot imagine you’d want to cook for yourself in Tokyo when the food is so incredible and relatively inexpensive, I generally avoid this choice. For a budget choice look at Richmond Asakusa Hotel, Hamacho Hotel, Toggle Hotel Suidobashi, Hotel The Celestine Tokyo Shiba, Mustard Hotel Shimokitazawa, of Lyuro Tokyo Kiyosumi by The Share Hotels. For a mid-range choice look at Park Hotel Tokyo, Gate Hotel Asakusa, Dai-Ichi Hotel Tokyo, or Keio Plaza Hotel Tokyo. If you’re looking to splurge, consider Mandarin Oriental, The Tokyo Edition Toranomon, Aman Tokyo, TRUNK(HOTEL) Yoyogi Park, Hotel Toranomon Hills, Conrad Hotel, or Palace Hotel.

Depending on where you’re coming from you may have limited time today, but if you do have time, we recommend heading first to the Meiji-jingu Shrine. Wander through the forest to get to the outside of the shrine where you will find a wall of sake barrels and a wall of wine barrels (gifts to the shrine). Nearby to the Meiji Shrine is the Shinjuku-gyoen gardens, which was completed as an imperial retreat in 1906. It’s a nice stroll and a beautiful place for a picnic, or, depending on the season, to see cherry blossoms in the spring.

Next can be an optional stop at the Nezu Museum. This museum has a renowned collection of Japanese, Chinese, and Korean antiquities. It tends to be a serene and quieter museum and the cafe, NEZUCAFÉ, is a fantastic place for lunch.

From here, make your way to Shibuya Crossing which is allegedly the busiest intersection in the world. With every light change hundreds (sometimes thousands) of people cross the street at one time. Nearby the crossing, there are some popular shopping places. The rooftop of the Shibuya 109 department store (Mag’s Park – the entry fee includes a drink) has one of the best views over Shibuya Crossing.If you want, you can get advance tickets for Shibuya Sky, a 360 degree open-air observation deck at the rooftop of Shibuya Scramble Square, 230 meters above ground. The Sky Edge corner gives a view of the cityscape below without obstruction. Alternatively, catch the train from Shibuya Station to Shinjuku Station and you get a good view for free at Tokyo’s city hall, the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building. This building has observatory platforms on both the south and north towers of Building 1, 202m up. On a clear day you may be able to see Mt. Fuji and after dark it’s a fun place to take in all of the illuminated buildings.

Nearby The Bellwood/Bell Sushi is an excellent place for dinner. The backroom of the inventive bar is a sushi restaurant (it’s tiny and only seats four). Alternatively, Omoide-yokocho (a bar district) is also great spot to get a more casual dinner dinner. Tokyo still has hidden narrow alleyways and Omoide-yokocho remains a cluster of them with tiny restaurants and bars. Omoide-yokocho literally means “Memory Lane” but is also known as “Piss Alley”. Here, you’ll mostly find yakitori.

After dinner you should make your way to Golden Gai, Tokyo’s iconic bar district made up on many tiny bars in low-slung wooden buildings. Some of these bars keep their doors closed to tourists to preserve the old atmosphere – be respectful fo that. Bars that welcome tourists have English signs posted on their doors and the best way to experience this area is to stroll and pick a place that looks fun. Or make your way over to Vowz Bar. This bar is run by Buddhist monks (in an effort to get more young people familiar with Buddhism). As part of your bar experience, you’ll join a chant off a piece of paper passed around, but it’s lively and incredibly cool.

Day 2 – Tokyo

Start your day visiting Ueno-koen Park with the first site being the Tokyo National Museum. Allow at least an hour to wind your way through the century of history the museum covers.

Next, enjoy Ueno-koen Park. This spot is especially popular in spring (it’s one of Tokyo’s top blossom viewing spots), but it is truly lovely all year long. There are two must-see spots to stop at (in this order): Kiyomizu Kannon-do and Uneo Toshogo Shrine. Nearby to the Uneo Toshogo Shrine is the Peony Garden and, if it’s open and the flowers are in bloom, it’s a gorgeous place to visit as well. One end of the park also has a large scenic pond (Shinobazu-ike) and you can also find the Ueno Zoo (which is Japan’s oldest zoo).

After seeing Uneo Toshogo Shrine, walk to Nezu-jinja shrine with its photogenic red torii gates and then to Enju-ji Temple. If you need a coffee break, Kayaba Coffee near Enju-ji Temple is a nice place to stop. In this area you’ll continue to pass many temples and you’re welcome to go into any. Yanaka-reien is one of Tokyo’s most atmospheric and prestigious cemeteries. When you exit the cemetery, continue with the train tracks on your right until you reach the bridge that overlooks the tracks. Head left and continue down the Yuyake Dandan to the classic mid-20th century shopping street Yanaka Ginza. This is a charming area that feels like stepping back in time with low wooden homes and stores selling goods they’ve sold for hundreds of years. Grab snacks from the food vendors as you browse through the stores and enjoy the small park Sudo-koen. Then catch the subway at Sendagi Station to Asakusa Station.

From Asakusa station walk to the main entrance to the complex, the red Kaminari-mon (Thunder Gate). On each side is a statue of Fujin (god of wind) and Raijin (god of Thunder). Then wander along the main shopping street (Nakamise-dori) to the temple lined by vendors on either side. These vendors sell everything from cheap trinkets to true craftwork. It’s a great place to grab a bite to eat if you’re hungry. At the end of Nakamise-dori is Senso-ji temple itself and the nearby 55m Five-Storied Pagoda (a 1973 reconstruction of the one built by Tokugawa Iemitsu) and Asakusa-jina (original from 1649). Denboin garden is a pretty walk through if it is open.

For the late afternoon, you may want to instead catch a boat to Hamariku Gardens which runs from Asakusa.

For drinks, try Folklore or Qwang Bar. For dinner, head to Ginza Katsukami or choose off of our Tokyo Restaurant and Drink Recommendations.

Day 3 – Tokyo

Plan to spend your morning exploring Tokyo’s best markets. If you only choose one, it should be the Tsukiji Market. The outer market in Tsukiji is a wonderful chance to sample a wide variety of some of Japan’s finest seafood and various fresh, hot snacks. It’s fun to simply wander among the incredible amount of food (fresh, preserved, you name it – it’s there), but you must ask to take photos. Peruse both the inner and the outer market.

Before 2018, Tsukiji Market was the largest wholesale fish and seafood market in the world, however the fist market got moved to another location, Toyosu Market, where they still do the giant tuna auction. If you want to see this, you’ll have to head here. This market is closed on Sundays, national holidays, and most Wednesdays. You’ll have to stand on a designated observation deck and a glass walled auction gallery to view the action, and be mindful this is not something put on for tourists. This is a real auction for buyers to secure tuna for the restaurants. The tuna auctions at happen between 5:30 am and 6:30 am. You should plan to arrive around 5 am to the Fisheries Intermediate Whole Building to obtain a spot in the free gallery or 5:30 am at the observation deck if you have a ticket. The auction walkway gallery is opened from 5 am to visitors and you do not need a ticket. The observation deck is located on the same floor as the auction, and, whie the tickets are free, you need to apply through a monthly lottery one month ahead of your visit.

Grab lunch at Ginza Hachigo after you finish at the market.

For the afternoon, visit the Imperial Palace East Garden and Kitanomaru-koen Park. The Imperial Palace East Garden is in the Tokyo Imperial Palace complex and easy to wander. The gardens were first used by the Tokugawa shogunate. If you aren’t tired yet, Kitanomaru-koen Park is just north of the Imperial Palace garden, and, especially in the spring, can be a gorgeous place to see cherry blossoms and take a boat ride on the canals. This park also houses the National Museum of Modern Art.

If you still have more time (or an extra day) you can pick a museum, garden, or Sumo experience. Try one of Team Lab’s sites: Borderless or Planets. What is Team Lab? They are major immersive, digital art museums created by the international art collective Team Lab. Think an interactive, incredibly cool museum where you interact with the art. Or explore one of Tokyo’s famous museums, choosing between the Mitsubishi Ichigokan Museum (modern art), Artizon Museum of Art (impressionist, post-impressionist, and 20th century art), or the Yayoi Kusama Museum (famous polka dot artist). Or enjoy a wander through the Koishikawa Korakuen Garden.

Tonight consider joining a Tokyo Food Tour to sample many of Japanese delicacies. There are many food tours you can consider. Ninja Food Tours is arguably maybe the best. But other good options include Culinary Backstreets and Arigato Japan Food Tours.

For after dinner drinks, Bar Benfeddich is a fun option if you can score a reservation.

Day 4 – Nikko

Today you’re going to head to a remarkable place with renowned UNESCO World Heritage shrines and stunning natural landscapes – Nikko.

You have to reserve this train in advance during popular times (spring and autumn). The fastest and most direct trains to Nikko are the Tobu Railway Limited Express trains (Spacia X, Revaty, or Kegon) from Tobu Asakusa Station, arriving at Tobu-Nikko Station in about 2 hours. If you can’t score a reservation on this, you can take the JR-Tobu Trains which are limited express trains (Nikko/Kinugawa) that run directly from Shinjuku/Ikebukuro stations. If you’re visiting in spring or fall, book the express train as soon as you know your trip dates.

Once you arrive, plan to pick up your rental car (which you’ll keep until you arrive in Kanazawa on day 12. We had great success with Nikko Toyota right near the train station.

Drive to the Nikko and park at the Nishi-sando Municipal Parking Lot. Take a quick peek (and picture) at the Shinkyo Bridge. Then enter the park and buy a ticket and get ready to explore the shrine complex. This involves a lot of walking – so I recommend you plan to start with the most exciting shrines. There are some food stalls within the park that you can grab for lunch.

Start at the Nikkozan Rinnoji Temple, founded in the 8th century. The structure’s Sanbutsudo Hall has 3 8-meter gold covered Buddha statutes and is the largest wooden structure in Nikko.

The number one shrine to visit is the Toshogu Shrine. This shrine is extremeley lavish, a highly ornate mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the shogunate that ruled Japan for 250 years. It’s covered in intricate wood carvings and lavish gold leaf. It also features a magnificent 5 story pagoda.

You can stop at the Nikko Futarasan jinja which has traditional shrines winding through ancient cedar trees up a hill. It’s very serene and the garden is pretty, but this, while geographically the next stop, is not as interesting as the next temple Nikko Tamozawa Imperial Villa Memorial Park.

Taiyuinbyo Mausoleum is the last must-see stop. Dedicated to the third shogun, Tokugawa Iemitsu, it’s a more serene and equally artistic alternative to the very crowded Toshogu Shrine. It features stunning black-and-gold architecture, intricate wood carvings, all in cedar-forest setting.

If you have additional time, stop at the Nikko Tamozawa Imperial Villa Memorial Park. It was the former imperial summer residence in Nikko, constructed for Emperor Taisho in 1899, and served as a place for Emperor Hirohito to hide during World War II. Now you can explore the diverse architectural styles and lovely garden. Another great stop is the Kamangafuchi Abyss, where, after you park, you can walk an easy path along the river along which sit 70 stone statues of Jizo, a Buddhist person who pursues Nirvana.

Finally, head to your hotel. We think you should experience a ryokan once on this trip, and our pick is KAI Kinugawa. A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn that offers a deeply cultural and immersive lodging experience, typically with tatami-mat rooms, futon beds, kaiseki (multi-course) meals, and natural hot spring baths (onsens). While some ryokan’s are quite rustic, KAI Kinugawa is quite luxurious with gorgeous onsens, amazing meals, and incredibly comfortable beds. We also think it’s in a great location – far enough from Nikko town to be quiet and easily accessible to the road that leads up to Lake Chuzenji and Kegon Falls. Another option would be to stay on the lake at Kai Nikko, Ritz-Carlton Nikko, or Chuzenji Kanaya Hotel. Or you could stay in town at the Kanaya Hotel. The downside with a lake side hotel is you will have to backtrack loop to see the sites tomorrow, but a view of the lake may make that worth it.

Day 5 – Nikko

Today, you’ll explore Nikko National Park. You will do this as a loop, and, we cannot stress enough, do not skip a site because it will be near-impossible to go back and see it again.

Start by stopping at the Akechidaira ropeway. If you’re here at a busy time of year, you’ll be clued into the stop around the winding road by seeing a line of cars waiting to enter the parking lot. Do not drive past this. You have to park here and it’s worth the wait. Buy tickets at the bottom and allow the ropeway to whisk you up to the Akechidaira observation platform where you will get stunning views of both Kegon Falls and Lake Chuzenji.

From here, continue along the road to Kegon Falls. There is a both an upper and lower observation deck and both are worth visiting to get a view of the waterfall up close.

You will pass through Chuzenji Onsen, the town right next to Kegon Falls. There are options here to grab a quick coffee or bite to eat, but otherwise you can continue right along the lake. Consider a stop at Chuzenji Temple, or otherwise drive to Ryuzu Falls for a hike.

The trail we recommend follows the Yugawa River as it makes its way from cascade of Yudaki Falls through a forest of deciduous trees, then emerges onto the broad basin of the Senjogahara Marshland and continues on to Ryuzu Falls. Senjogahara is one of Japan’s most famous wetlands. Once a large lake created over 20,000 years ago by the volcanic eruption of nearby Mt. Nantai, today it can be explored along extensive boardwalks that protect the fragile marsh ecosystem of plants and animals. You can do this hike one of two ways. You can start at Yudaki Falls and walk towards Ryuzu Falls or vice versa. You could also choose to walk some one direction, turn around, and then drive to the other falls to see them both. There are parking lots at both Ryuzu and Yudaki falls.

We started at Ryuzu Falls, crossed the marshland, and walked to Yudaki Falls and then to Lake Yunoko and back the way we came to Ryuzu Falls. Round trip this is 7 miles so plan accordingly. There’s a great place for lunch before you start at the base of Ryuzu Falls called Ryuzu no Chaya that you might want to eat at before you start.

If you aren’t a hiker, you could catch a cruise around Lake Chuzenji instead.

Make your way back to your lodging. If you’re staying at our recommended KAI Kinugawa, enjoy the onsen before dinner or walk to the nearby scenic Fureai Bridge.

Day 6 – Mount Fuji

Leave in the morning to drive to Mount Fuji. Of note, Mount Fuji is only visible 1/3 or 1/4 days. We’re keeping you here for two days to hopefully increase your luck. Mornings and evenings are typically the best bets to see it emerge. In a little under three hours, you’ll be at the base of the mountain. You have some options of where to stay around Mount Fuji (there are 5 lakes surrounding the mountain), but our strong recommendation is to stay in Kawaguchiko. It’s slightly less crowded given it’s difficult to get to via train (as opposed to Hakone) and it offers more impressive and direct views of the mountain. Since you’ll have a car anyway to get to the Japanese Alps, you should take advantage and stay at this lake.

Before you arrive in Kawaguchiko, take a quick stop at Oshino Hakkai village. Stretch your legs by wandering around and across the eight ponds that make up this thatched village. The ponds are fed by the snow melt of Mount Fuji. Hannoki Bayashi Shiryokan is the open air museum in the village showcasing the traditional thatched houses.

Next, drive to Chureito Pagoda. This pagoda is the iconic site for picture-perfect postcard views of Mount Fuji. To get here, you’ll park at the bottom and climb 400 steps upwards to the observation deck. Unless you can see Mount Fuji (i.e. it’s clear) it’s not worth it.

We cannot recommend enough splurging on Hoshinoya Fuji. This hotel has a “glamping” concept, but there is nothing camping about the incredible rooms built into the hillside, each offering a spectacular view of Mount Fuju. I mean it, I gasped when I walked into my room the views were so incredible. The food at this hotel is amazing (there’s really no reason to ever leave), and you can enjoy wandering through the forest up to the library/bar (where there’s live music most nights) or to the many activities the hotel offers. Other options to stay include more mid-range hotels like Highland Resort Hotel and Spa, Mizno Hotel, Shuhokaku Kogetsu, or The Garden or other luxury hotels like Bessho Sasa Hotel, Kozantei Ubuya, Fuji View and Spa Resort TSUMUGI, or Hotel Kaneyamaen.

Day 7 – Mount Fuji

We’re hoping you get beautiful weather today! We’d recommend either starting or ending your day by walking from Oishi Park to Nagasaki Park right along the bank of Kawaguchiko lake for picture-perfect panoramic views of Mount Fuji.

Today, aim to make your way part way up Mount Fuji if that’s of interest to you. There’s a few hikes off the Mount Fuji Panoramic Ropeway that you should consider: Mount Tenjo Trail (recommended, about 1 hour – you hike back down to the Kawaguchiko Pleasure Boat pier) or Mount Mitsutoge (the bigger commitment, about 3 hours). For the Mount Tenjo Trail, take the cable car up and follow signs to wind back down the mountain. For the Mount Mitsutoge, take the cable car up (and later down) and follow signs from the top.

Do not miss the Itchiku Kubota Art Museum. We weren’t sure what to expect but were absolutely blown away by this museum which is a rotating collection of spectacular kimonos by the textile artist Itchiku Kubota. We’ve never seen more gorgeous kimonos in our life.

If you have more time in the afternoon there’s a few things you can do. If it’s fall and peak leaf season, you may want to walk the Lake Kawaguchi Maple Corridor – a very quick walk through very picturesque maple trees. You could go to the Fuji Yurari Onsen or try some sake at Ide Sake Brewing. If you want to drive slightly further out or have an extra day, go hiking in the Aokigahara forest and explore the lava caves. Or if it’s a gorgeous day you could hop on the Kawaguchiko Sightseeing Boat ‘Appare’.

You also do have a choice to explore one of the other lake regions: Hakone. It’s a little over an hour to get to this area, and we’d recommend skipping it unless you really want to see a different view of Mount Fuji. Hakone is probably the most popular day trip location to see Lake Fuji. It’s known for the Torii of Peace, Hakone Open Air Museum, Hakone Ropeway, and the Cruise on Ashi Lake.

Day 8 – Nagano

Drive to Nagano today via the Shiga-Kusatsu Kogen Route, an extremely scenic route over mountain passes in the summer and fall. This route is ideal for leaf-peeping but is not the most direct route, so if you aren’t as interested in alpine terrain, you could opt for the more direct route. To route yourself, head to Kusatsu Onsen. Then, drive along Route 292 past Joshinetsu Kogen National Park. Stop at Shiga Kogen Ski Resort and ride the Higashidateyama ropeway which gives spectacular views and is a great place to start a hike.

From here, head to Jigokudani Monkey Park where you will get the chance to see snow monkeys bathing in hot springs. This is not a zoo, the monkeys come down from the mountains to bathe and your best chance of seeing them is when its cold outside (though technically you can see them at any time of the year). There is a free, dedicated parking lot at Kanbayashi Hot Springs (near the trailhead) and a smaller, paid parking area closer to the park, open in warmer months. Parking is roughly a 15–30 minute walk from the park entrance. And then you’ll walk about 35 minutes from the entrance to the pools.

Once you finish, drive to Matsumoto. Check into your lodging Matsumoto Jujo which will include your dinner.

Day 9 – Matsumoto

Today enjoy exploring Matsumoto. The number one thing to see is Matsumoto Castle. Other interesting landmarks in Matumoto include Nawate street, Nakamachi street Oyaki, and Genchi well.

You could spend your extra time enjoying the onsen at your hotel, or make the drive to Myoko-Togakushi renzan National Park and do the Okusha Shrine hike, see Kamaike Pond, or visit Otari Onsen.

Stay at the same place tonight.

Day 10 – Takayama

This morning, drive to Kamikochi in Chubusangaku National Park. At Kamikochi park in the Hirayuotaki Parking Lot and catch the shuttle bus to Kamikochi (the only way you can enter the park is by bus or taxi). Once you arrive, explore the meandering but easy nature trails of Kamikochi (the most popular being Kappa Bridge to Taisho Pond which takes about 2.5 hours) before heading back on the shuttle bus. This gives you great views of Mt. Yakedake and the Azusa River. There is a restaurant you can grab lunch at in Kamikochi at the Kamikochi Bus Terminal and Kappa Bridge. There’s a few other options of hikes including Myojin Pond Loop (approx. 2-3 hours), Mount Yakedake (approx. 3–4 hours ascent), or the Nishi-Hotaka/Maruyama Hill (approx. 4–5 hours round trip).

After you finish, drive to Takayama.

Takayama is a picturesque city with an impeccably preserved Old Town in the Japanese Alps best known for numerous traditional sake breweries, art shops, and Hida Beef. Quintessentially, it’s referred to as “Little Kyoto”.

For lodging, aim to stay near or in the Old Town. We highly recommend Hotel Wood Takayama or Honjin Hiranoya Kachoan. Also look at other mid range options including Auberge Hida no Mori, Honjin Hiranoya Annex, Hida Hotel Plaza Takayama, and Hoshukaku. Some more splurgy options include Honjin Hiranoya Kachoan, Tanabe Ryokan, Wanosato, Hidaji, and Hidatei Hanaougi. And if you’re on a budget look at Takayama Green Hotel. If you have a big family group, check out Iori Takayama where you’ll stay in your very own historic house.

For dinner one night in Takayama you MUST go to Satoshi’s Uemura Farm to Table Restaurant. The only way to make a reservation (which is required) is via Instagram. Message him and he’ll message you back. He’s farmer that brings his produce into Takayama to create the most decadent meals. He’s incredibly friendly and the food was maybe our favorite of our entire trip.

Day 11 – Takayama

Start your day with breakfast and coffee at Falo Coffee Roasters, Tori Coffee, or Le Pain Mujo. Then enjoy the day exploring Takayama. Start with a self-guided walking tour. Make sure you see the Miyagawa Morning Market (stalls of artisans selling their goods) before taking your coffee to Shiroyama Park. This park is located on the site of the former Takayama Castle and offers many a forested walking trail with stunning panoramic views of the alps. After this, head to San-machi-suji district filled with quaint, Edo-period traditional merchant houses, restaurants, shops & breweries. Pop into any artisan shop that interests you. Then head to Takayama Jinya (a museum to the historic town), Yoshijima Heritage House, Kusakabe Heritage House, and wander in an out of the many sake breweries. At most of these you can buy a card and try tiny samples of a large variety of local sakes.

In the afternoon, either drive or take the train a short distance to the Hida Folk Village, an open-air museum of 30 old farmhouses illustrating the traditional architectural styles of the mountainous regions of Japan. For dinner tonight, visit Sakurajaya or pick from our Takayama Restaurant Recommendations.

Day 12 – Shirakago-wa

Day 12 – Shirakawa-go

Leave Takayama this morning for Shirakawa-go, the UNESCO World Heritage traditional thatched-roof town in the Japanese Alps. The village is famous for its traditional gassho-zukuri (praying hands) farmhouse architecture or these 1800s-era wooden houses. The entire place feels out of a storybook.

There are two parking lots at Shirakawa-go. The main parking is the Seseragi Park Parking Area which is large and where the tour buses descend from. The advantage of this area is you get a beautiful view of the river wrapping around the town and a scenic walk over a bridge into the town itself. Though if you have a choice and it’s open, head to the Midashima Parking at the far end of town. It makes for a much less crowded entrance to the town, gets you to the most photogenic site first, and allows you to enter some of the lesser trafficked homes. You’ll have to pay to park at any of the lots.

Take as much time as you want exploring this town. You only have a one hour drive ahead of you to your final destination of the day, Kanazawa. Even if you have to cross the pedestrian bridge, I would recommend starting near the Midashima Parking lot to get the famous view of the three-thatched huts in one photo. Near this is the Myozanji Temple Museum, your first stop for going inside a building. From here, wander to the Kanda House (optional stop at the Nagase House first), then the Wada House. Stop for lunch at Hiiragi (there may be a wait so you may want to try to do this early) and after lunch head up the hill to the Ogimachi Castle Observatory to get a sweeping view of the entire town. We visited in October and had the luck to see them actively replacing the thatch on the houses.

Once you finish, drive to Kanazawa and drop your rental car off. You won’t need it for the rest of the trip!

For dinner, consider Otomezushi, Fuwari, Kawaguchi, Kataori, Zeniya, Plat Home, Yokoyama, Ramen Kazahana, The Cottage, or Itaru Honten.

For ease tomorrow, we’d honestly recommend staying near the train station (instead of in the cute Old Town) because you’ll have to store your luggage at the hotel while you explore tomorrow and you’ll be taking a train onward. We loved our stay at the Hyatt Centric Kanazawa. Another good option is Hotel Nikko. Or if you do want a more charming place in the center of beautiful Kanzawa where it’s easier to walk from the next day (though you’ll have to take a car back to the station) you can look at Kanazawa Tokyu Hotel, Share Hotels Kumu Kanazawa, Kumu Kanzawa, or Maki No Oto.

Day 13 – Kanazawa

You’re in for a treat exploring Kanazawa. While it is a real size city, it feels remarkable smaller than Kyoto or Osaka and at least, if not more, charming. It’s also a lot less crowded and touristy. Some people call it a “mini-Kyoto” experience, and we think that’s pretty accurate. It has phenomenal Edo-period history, samurai and ninja culture, and beautiful arts and crafts. You can explore by yourself or arrange a tour for the day. Our biggest recommendation: this is a huge walking day – where the most comfortable shoes you own.

Start at the Hakukokan Gold Leaf Center, which will demonstrate how the town known as the City of Gold, mastered their craft. Kanazawa produces over 99% of Japan’s gold leaf and within this city you’ll find a million craft pieces with gold and even gold-leaf covered ice cream.

Next, make your way to the Higashi Chayagai district which used to be the Geisha district. Head into the Shima Teahouse (a 1820s teahouse turned museum) and Kaikarou Teahouse (the largest teahouse in Kanazawa), both of which offer glimpses into what these looked like in their heyday. If you’re in the mood for tea, have some at Fumuro Chaya or if you’re already ready for ice cream (probably not but should you ever pass up gold leaf ice cream?) Hakuichi’s Higashiyama is a great spot.

After visiting here, head to Omicho Market, Kanazawa’s largest fresh food market since the Edo Period, and a pleasant way to see more Japanese delicacies. Next walk to the Oyama Shrine, built in 1599 and famous for an unusual gate built by a Dutchman. On the shrine grounds is a nice strolling garden with ponds and bridges. Once you’re done, make your way to the restored Ishikawa Gate on one end of Kenroku-en park. The gate originally guarded the entrance to the palace of Kanazawa Castle, and was only later moved to Oyama Shrine. On the shrine grounds stands a statue of Lord Toshiie. There is also a nice strolling garden with ponds and bridges, designed to resemble harps and lutes.

You can either start with the castle or start with the park. I’d probably recommend starting with the castle. Kanazawa Castle, which was the seat of the powerful Maeda Clan, a feudal domain ranking second only to the Tokugawa possessions in terms of size and wealth. The castle itself burnt down a few times over the centuries, and the last fires in 1881 left only two storehouses and the Ishikawa-mon Gate. For a while, Kanazawa University occupied these grounds until the 1990s. Now the structures are being rebuilt in the style of their original designs. From here, it’s time to wander through Kenroku-en, one of Japan’s most celebrated gardens. If you’re not too tired of walking, head to Seisonkaku Villa, a samurai villa filled with Edo Period (1603-1868) arts and crafts.

After you finish the gardens, walk to the Suzuki Daisetz Teitaro Museum. The architect Yoshio Taniguchi designed this minimalist museum to honor D.T. Suzuki, Zen philosopher. While we didn’t really know what to expect, we were so glad we visited. It feels like a different world from the rest of Kanazawa, and is incredibly peaceful and beautiful in a way that’s difficult to describe. Don’t forget to wander outside and enjoy resting by the pool

You can take a brief, or longer, wander through the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, famous for interactive exhibits (or if you don’t like contemporary art you can skip it altogether) before walking to the Nagamachi Samurai House Area, where you can go wander amongst traditional samurai homes. We enjoyed going inside of Nijadera “Ninja Temple” which sits in this district. It was built by the Maeda lords, and though not actually associated with ninja, became famous for its many deceptive defences and served as a disguised military outpost. In this area as you wander you can also find some of the most beautiful hand-crafted pottery. You can visit Kutani Kosen Kiln to see how they make the Kutani style pottery by hand, but even if you don’t go here specifically, there are beautiful artisan stores in this neighborhood.

Tired yet? Then it’s a perfect time to hop on a train to Kyoto! The train is about 2 hours and an easy ride. So pick up your luggage and head to the station.

Once you arrive, check into your lodging. We really enjoyed staying at The Chapter Kyoto, which was in a great location to get to restaurants and bars, and easy enough to get to major sites. To be honest, it doesn’t entirely matter where you stay in Kyoto (as it’s huge) as long as you are close to a subway/train line. This is not where I’d choose to do a Ryokan. They are outrageously expensive in Kyoto and you can do them just as easily in Nikko or Takayama for much cheaper. Other mid-range options include Hotel Celestine Kyoto Gion, Cross Hotel Kyoto, The Thousand Kyoto, Mogana, Sako Hotel, Ace Hotel Kyoto, Hotel Kanra Kyoto, or Seikoro Ryokan. Budget options include Granvia Kyoto, Solaria Nishitetsu Hotel Kyoto Premier, and Mama Arashiyama. If you do want to splurge (and it’s easy to do that here), consider The Shinmonzen, Roku Kyoto, Park Hyatt Kyoto, Sowaka, Aman Kyoto, Hoshinoya Kyoto, Kanamean Nishitomiya, or The Mitsui.

Kyoto has an incredible array of restaurants and food. If you’re staying at our pick for hotels, Bistro Yanagihara is right around the corner, cozy, and absolutely delicious or select from our Kyoto Restaurant Recommendations.