Italy – Northern Italy to Tuscany

Italy

Italy – Northern Italy to Tuscany

We’ve been to Italy several times before and visited the standard highlights: Florence, Venice, Rome, etc. We designed this trip to focus more on the countryside and villages. You’ll see the famous lake region, the spectacular Dolomites, gorgeous coast of the Cinque Terra, and the famous countryside of Tuscany. We don’t love driving in cities in Italy but with this trip focusing on smaller places a car is really a must for efficient touring and the only real city driving is in Milan, which is strangely civilized driving compared to cities further south.https://www.wildrosethai.com/

Best guidebook: Rick Steves Italy

Day 1 – Milan

Day 2 – Milan

Day 3 – Milan to Varenna (Lake Como)

Day 4 – Varenna (Lake Como)

Day 5 – Dolomites

Day 6 – Alpe di Siusi / Seiser Alm

  • Drive to Castelrotto (or Bus #170, get off at Bergbahn station). Arrive before 9 and you can use lot 2 in Compatsch but after that need to park at gondola and ride up.
  • Seiser Alm Bahn gondola to Compatsch (if arriving by car after 9 or by bus)
  • Hike
    • Trail of the Witches – 2+ hour loop, easy 
    • Panorama to Zallingerhutte and Florian Chairlift – 4+ hours, easy to moderate. For a nice day combine this one with the witches trail.
      • Add on High Route to Zallingerhutte – additional 2 hours
    • Schlern Summit – 8 hours loop, challenging
      • Lunch at Schlernhaus 
  • Note: During the day (basically 9-6) you can only get around Seiser Alm by cable ar or bus – but there is really only one bus and it is cheap and comes every 20 minutes.
  • Dinner – Select one you didn’t try the night before
  • Lodging – same place (night 2/3)

Day 7 – Dolomites / Val Gardena

  • Drive to Val Gardena – Ortisei, Selva (53 m each way)
  • Gondola and walk (Seceda – Regensberger hutte)
  • Return to Bolzano
  • Dinner – Select one you didn’t try the night before
  • Lodging – same place (night 3/3)

Day 8- Drive to Cinque Terra via Verona

Day 9 – Cinque Terre 

Day 10 – Siena 

Day 11- Siena 

Day 12 – To Tuscany 

  • Breakfast – Bar Pasticceria Nannini (if not offered by your lodging)
  • Drive to La Foce Gardens (check days -open Wednesdays and Sundays spring through fall) (1h10m drive)
  • See gardens
  • Drive to Montepulciano (16m drive)
    • Town wander
    • Lunch
    • Wine tasting at Palazzo Contucci basement / cellars or upstairs at Palazzo on the Plaza
    • Drinks with a view at Piazza di San Francesco (E Lucian le Stelle Wine Bar Bistro)
    • Dinner – Le Logge del Vignola (highly recommended).
  • Drive to Pienza (17 m drive)
  • Lodging – Hotel San Gregorio, Hotel Corsignano or in the nearby countryside Agriturismo Il Casalino (night 1/3)

Day 13 – Assisi day trip

Day 14 – Tuscany 

  • Pienza town wander 
  • Drive to Bagno Vignoni (19 m)
    • Town wander
    • Swim at Piscina Val di Sole at Hotel Posta Marcucci (recommend reserve a spot in advance)
  • Drive to Montalcino (22m)
    • Town wander
  • Bunello wineries (optional, select 1)
  • Dinner – Drive to Ristorante Campo del Drago (22m from Montalcino, then 46m back to Pienza – 2 Michelin stars) or back to Pienza (26m) then Drive to Ristorante Conte Matto (24m) or La Grotta (15m just outside Montepulciano) or Ristorante Daria (16 m – in Monticchillo) or Taverna da Ciacco – on the way back from Montalcino to Pienza.
  • Lodging – same place (night 3/3)

Day 15 – Orvieto

Day 16 – Civita Di Bagnoregio

  • Day trip Civita Di Bagnoregio
  • Orvieto underground tours
  • Rupe Hike or lovely trail between Todi and Orvieto (pick up map at TI)
  • Dinner – Try different reastaurant
  • Lodging – same place (2/2)

Day 17 – Hadrian’s palace and Villa d’Este gardens in Tivoli

  • Drive to Tivoli 1:28
  • Tour Hadrian’s Villa
  • Tour Villa d’Este
  • Drive to and tour Borghese gallery (31m)
  • Dinner:  Pascucci al Porticciolo (*) L’Osteria dell Orologio; Il Tino (*); Quarantuno Dodici
  • Lodging: Marriot Rome Grand Hotel Flor, Hoxton, Parco dei Principi Grand Hotel and Spa, NH Rome

Day 18 – Ostia Antica and home

  • Drive to Ostia Antica (35m)
  • Drive to airport, drop car(7m)
  • Fly home

In Depth Itinerary

Day 1 – Milan

Milan is a different city than lots of the rest of Italy. In some ways it feels more Austrian – clean, efficient, organized but it is also full of Italian style. Everywhere you will see VERY stylishly dressed people enjoying life but it is way more organized and efficient than Rome. For years we had skipped Milan as we had read that the sites were better elsewhere, but I would absolutely make a plan to spend a few days here.

The thing to know about Milan is that you need to see the last supper and adjacent Santa Maria d Grazie church but also that you are not going to get a ticket unless you plan far in advance and hit the right date in advance to purchase OR (recommended) get a walking tour that includes the Last Supper (and book this at least a week in advance as well). The tour will take you past most of the main sights and there is no reason to take a bus – it’s all easy walking. We used Get Your Guide but there are a lot of options.

There are three airports in Milan so pick the one with the most convenience. Pick up your rental car and head to your lodging (generally 30-60 minute drive) . BE SURE and pay the fee to enter the city center (see above) even if parking at your hotel. It’s a good idea to pick one within walking distance of the Duomo, but the tram system works well (everything in Milan seemed to work well).

We suggest for your first day you concentrate on seeing the Duomo (cathedral). It is smart to get tickets in advance and you can use the Rick Steves book to explore the cathedral. Be sure and walk around the back and go up to tour the roof as well. You won’t go into the cathedral on the walking tour and it is a very impressive church – well worth taking your time to explore.

There’s quite a few museums and sites you can explore nearby – if you have extra time after the Duomo, The Duomo Museum gets you up close to the original art, and the spectacular 4 story glass domed Galleria shopping arcade (from the 1870’s), is right next door and easy to pop in. Also nearby are the Museo del Novecento, Galleria d’Italia, and La Scala Opera house and museum, but don’t feel a rush to see everything as you should have time tomorrow as well.

See our recommendations above for drinks, dinner, and lodging

Day 2 – Milan

Start your day with a walking tour. They all generally meet at the Duomo. You’ll explore the area around the cathedral then head out to the Sforza castle, and then walk over and end at the Last Supper.

The last supper was painted on the wall of the dining hall for the Dominican Monastery adjoining the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. The fresco is not as well preserved as most you see due to the technique Leaonardo used. The fact that the room was used as a stable at one point and that the Last Supper was protected from Allied bombs by bricking up the wall and managed to survive likely did not help. Only 30 people are permitted in a a time due to humidity – hence the problems getting access.

The walk will also get you oriented and allow you the afternoon to explore the other sites (listed above), including La Scala Opera house (can be seen with tour but only from outside without), Galleria D’Italia with lovely neoclassical interiors, Pinoteca Ambrosiana – an art musuem since the early 1600’s, the church of San Maurizio for some gorgeous frescoes, and the historic Romanesque Basilica di’ Sant Amborgio.

Day 3 – Milan to Varenna (Lake Como)

It’s not a very far drive today so you can finish off anything you still want to see in Milan before heading out. Today head to Varenna on beautiful lake Como (1 h 14). Varenna is an extremely cute village on the extremely scenic Lake Como. There are a lot of options to stay around the lake. Menaggio is a larger resort town, Bellagio may be the most upscale town and is well worth a visit, but we enjoyed staying in more intimate Varenna. On arrival park at your hotel then wander around cute little Varenna, seeing the Harborfront, Piazza and Church of San Giorgio higher in the town, touring the Villa Monastery and Gardens along the lake and hiking up to Castello di Vezio for a view over the town and lake. If the weather is nice, tale a dip in the lake before settling in for gelato, drinks, and dinner.

Day 4 – Lake Como

You can rent a boat of arrange a taxi boat but the ferries work just fine to get around and leave right from the harbor in Varenna next to the Hotel Olivedo where we stayed. There are a couple different routes – be sure and get the one that includes Bellagio for today’s adventure. Head down the lake toward Bellagio but the main destination of the day should include Villa Carlotta and its lovely gardens (easily reached by ferry). With time Villa Balbianello is another worthwhile villa. Be sure and walk around Bellagio while your ferry stops connecting to the villas. If you have time, consider taking the Wayfarer’s Path hike  along the east shore of the lake from Varenna (where you are staying). You can also consider a cooking class from Ristorante il Caminetto in the hills above Varenna. However, we recommend one of your nights in Varenna being sure to catch the ferry to Bellagio and then walking to Ristorante Alle Darlene di Loppa if the weather is nice for a delightful outdoor meal.

Day 5 – To Bolzano and the Dolomites

Today is a bit of a drive (3 h 16m) but it’s easy autostrade most of the way and relatively scenic. You will be heading north from the Lake District into Alta Addagio / the Dolomites. Until World War I this area was Austrian and, even though part of Italy, has a distinctly Austrian feel. Bolzano has arcaded streets like Austrian alpine cities, and it seemed like while everyone speaks Italian, German, and English, starting with German seemed the norm. As you leave the Autostrade entering Bolzano don’t get discouraged by the not very scenic entry to the town – Bolzano is actually quite lovely. When you arrive park / check in then open some tome wandering around the town, visiting Piazza Walther, the Cathedral , Piazza del Grano, and Piazza delle Erbe. Be sure and see the excellent South Tirol Museum of Archaeology, which focuses on Otzi the iceman, a prehistoric fellow found on a glacier high in the nearby alps. Depending on time, from here you can head to a couple of sites just out of the downtown area – the Talvera Promenade, a grassy park along a river, Runkelstein Castle a bit further afield.

Day 6 – Alpe di Siusi / Seiser Alm

Today you head up to the beautiful Alps di Sues (in Italian) / Seiser All (In German – expect to see it called this more often), the largest Alpine Meadow in Europe. This Meadow is a paradise for easy walking and gorgeous Dolomite views and is a wonderful way to spend a day. We suggest and early departure – with your car if you get up the mountain before 9 you can drive all the way up to Compatsch (the main “town” at the beginning of the meadow). Arrive later and the road closes and you will need to park at the cable car (Bergbahn) station and ride the cable car up. You can also take a bus up from Bolzano to the cable car station. There are a ton of hills af all varieties here – here’s what we recommend for a delightful and not to difficult day. Start walking from Compatsch down to the Puflatsch lift(the one on the left)> ride this up then take the Trail of the Witches easy two hour loop with great views down the Valley to Val Gardena. Stop for a coffee and strudel at the Arnika Hutte. You will end up looping back to Compatsch. As an alternative, or to extend your day, walk the short distance back down to the Panorma lift (the one the right of Puflatsch lift) and ride this one up to the Panorama hotel and restaurant. From here take trail 2 to trail 7 to the Almrosen Hutte – a great place to stop for lunch before continuing on trail 7 to Zallinger – a very classy hotel restaurant with a charming little chapel and very cool blond horses (grab a drink here) before heading up a short hill to the Florian chairlift, which you ride down to Saltria and then grab the bus back to Compatsch and parking. Note there a a ton of lovely trails in the Seiser All and you could easily spend several days here (we actually did the following year, staying at Zallinger). Head back down to Bolzano and enjoy dinner at one of the excellent choices in town.

Day 7 – Dolomites / Val Gardena

Just when you thought this are could not get any better we offer you the amazing chairlift and hike to Seceda. It’s only about a 53 minute very scenic drive to Ortisei in Val Gardena. Head to the Furnes lift at the top of the village of Ortesie (there is parking there) and take the cable car to the Furnes station then the next cable car to the Seceda station (you buy tickets for both at the station in Seceda). From the Seceda station it is a fairly short but spectacular walk to amazing views over the gorgeous Seceda Ridgeline / mountain. We HIGHLY recommend continuing on to the Regensberger butte (well marked , trail 2b). You can stop for refreshments at the hut (naturally) then make it a loop by returning on trail 1 tto Almhotel Col Raiser, head down from there to the lift that takes you back up to the Seceda station. The whole route takes a couple of hours and the scenery is spectacular. From here head back down the cable cars and grab lunch in Ortesei. If you need woodcarvings the valley is famous for it and there are several stores along the road back to Bolzano. Return to Bolzano and enjoy whatever you did not see before (don’t miss the South Tirol museum of Archeology of you did not make it before).

Day 8- Drive to Cinque Terra via Verona

Today is the longest drive of the trip but you will break it up with a strop in lovely Verona. Start by heading down from the mountains to Verona. (1h 47m). There is easy parking at an underground garage at Piazza Citadella. From here, head to the Piazza Bra, Roman Arena, and generally wander though town following the Rick Steves walking tour. You will end up at the river before heading back. This is a great place to grab lunch and gelato before continuing on your drive.

From Verona it is a 3h 34 m drive to Vernazza, your base in the Cinque Terra. One does NOT drive in the Cinque Terra but you can arrange parking at the lot above town on the tiny road heading down to the village (information was available from our lodging) – we booked it in advance to be sure there was a spot. You will leave your car and they will shuttle you down to the end of the village at the train station (the train or walking is how you get around the area). There are 5 (hence the name) delightfully cute villages here but Vernazza is the prettiest. There are no real hotels but several apartments (listed above). Wander the town, enjoy the small church and beach and just the general ambience once the crowds leave. Be sure and walk up the road / path to Ristorante Torres for the best views over the town.

Day 9 – Cinque Terre 

Today is hiking and exploring day. One of the very cool things about these 5 little towns is that are linked by a lovely cliffside path. The 5 towns (from north to south are Monterossa )nice beach, good tourist infrastructure including hotels), Vernazza (the prettiest), Coniglia (the tiniest, not on the water but perched on cliffs above it), Manarola (second prettiest, stretching up along a ravine), and Riomaggiore (the largest and least touristed). Check out the Rick Steves Italy book for details on these charming towns.

After breakfast (or before if you want to eat in Monterroso) head out on the early side to avoid crowds and walk in the cooler part of the day, Start your day by walking up the main street to the end of town and purchase a Cinque Terre Park Card (if no taking the train – which we don’t recommend) or better a  Cinque Terre Treno MS Card . The Treno card covers the trails and unlimited train travel on the Cinque Terre Express trains on the Levanto – Cinque Terre – La Spezia line. We suggest heading to your left (trail leaves from the left side of the street very near the station. It’s listed as an hour and a half or to Monterroso, though it took us less time than that, but when the crowds are there it will likely be more like 2 hours or more. You must have closed toed shoes (no sandals) as there is a control gate a short walk up the trail where they check your ticket and they will turn you back if your footwear is not adequate. You will walk on a cliffside path through trees and some local farms / vineyards with amazing views. There is up and down but none of it is too difficult, You could also head the other direction to Corniglia but there’s more to see in Monterroso. Once getting to Monterroso there are several things to see including a decent beach(though in the new town past the bluffs) , Piazza Garibaldi, Church of St. John the Baptist, Oratory of the Dead and then you can head up the Switchbacks of the Friars to the Capuchin Church and ruined Castle above town. There are quite a few places to stay and eat here. This is the only town with any flat land to speak of.

When you have had your fill of Monterossa it’s time head to the other Cinque Terra towns for more exploring. It’s very easy to just hop on the train and hop off at your chosen town with the Treno pass. The most famous section of the path between the towns is the Via dell’Amore which leads to Riomaggiore. If you want to do this walk take the train to Riomaggiore, explore the town and then head to Manorola. The path was closed for years due to landslides but has recently reopened. It’s a 1km relatively flat one way walk from Riomaggiore to Manorola. The walk is by reservation with a 30 minute time slot limited to 200 people. Remember that the train makes it easy to hop between towns and so you can walk as much or little between towns as your time, energy, and crowds allow. Manorola is the second most scenic town with houses along a scenic ravine and swimming holes along the water and is well worth a visit.

From Manorola there was a direct trail to Corniglia but it has been closed due to damage, requiring a climb up to Volastra and then back down to get there (2.5 miles, 4 hours) (though a shuttle bus from Manorola can save much of the pain). Corniglia is the tiniest of the towns (population 240) and is not on the water or even on the train route. It’s a 20 minutes hike from the station or take an ATC shuttle bus from the train station. While cute, with limited time I’m not sure it’s worth the trouble unless walking to / from Vernazza along the trail (1.5 miles, 2 hours), which is very scenic – stop at the Bar la Torre for views before you get to Vernazza. You can also walk the other way from Vernazza to Corniglia.

As an alternative to hiking, especially if the trails and trails are mobbed with cruise passengers from La Spezia, you can grab a boat / ferry cruise along the coast that stops at the towns.

For dinner Ristorante Belforte is in an enviable position perched above the beach with good food and amazing views.

Day 10 – Siena 

Today head to Tuscany. First stop along the way is the walled hill town of Volterra (2h 32m drive), which was a major Etruscan city before the Romans and then an independent city state before eventually being taken over by the Florentines (Medici’s). This is perhaps the least touristy small town in Tuscany but nevertheless has some excellent sites. Head up the hill to an underground garage at the bus turn around.

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