Highlights of India

India

Highlights of India

Home to over a billion people and over 100 languages, India is an amazing, diverse, enormous (and often overwhelming) place. We think you could spend a lifetime exploring it and still have more to see.

In this three-week trip we give a sampling of some of the highlights of this fascinating country. It is by no means a complete itinerary but you will hit the highlights of some of most popular tourist destinations and also explore some of the less-visited but beautiful parts of southern India (which we think are well-worth it). Be aware: India is unique, travel can be challenging, and it is a feast for the senses that never fails to amaze.

Length: 21 days (3 weeks)

Transportation: Hired driver(s) and internal flights (see more details below)

Best Guide Book: DK Eyewitness India, Lonely Planet India

Day 1 – Fly and Mumbai

  • If you are departing from the US or Europe you may lose a day getting to India
  • Hotel transportation, tour transportation, or Uber to lodging
  • Dinner – at lodging 
  • Lodging – Adobe Bombay, Taj Mahal Palace, Oberoi (night 1/2)

Day 2 – Mumbai and Elephanta Island

  • Day trip Boat to Elephanta Island
  • Day tour of Mumbai
  • Lodging – same place (night 2/2) 

Day 3  – Madurai

Day 4 – Munnar

Day 5 – Drive to Thekkady

Day 6 – Kerala Houseboats

  • Drive to Alleppey (4h1 drive from Thekkady)
  • Kerala backwaters via houseboat
  • Lodging – houseboat (night 1/1) 

Day 7 – Kochi

  • Drive to Kochi (1h drive)
  • Day tour Fort Kochi
    • Chinese fishing nets
    • Dutch Palace 
    • Jewish Quarter and Paradesi synagogue
    • St. Francis Church 
  • Evening with traditional Kathakali Show
  • Lodging – Old Harbor Hotel Malabar house (night 1/1)

Day 8 – Aurangabad

Day 9 – Aurangabad

  • Drive to Ajanta caves (approx 2-3h drive)
  • Ajanta Caves
  • Lodging – same place (night 2/2) 

Day 10 – Aurangabad to Delhi

Day 11 – Delhi

Day 12 – Varanasi

Day 13 – Varanasi to Agra

Day 14 – Taj Mahal

Day 15 – Agra to Jaipur

Day 16 – Jaipur

Day 17 – Jaipur to Jodhpur

Day 18 – Jodhpur

Day 19 – Udaipur

Day 20 – Return to Mumbai

  • Enjoy Udaipur
  • Fly to Mumbai (4:20pm – 5:50 pm Air India)

Day 21 – Fly and arrive home

  • Flights generally leave after midnight and arrive same day

In-Depth Itinerary

Day 1 – Fly and Mumbai

If you are departing from the US or Europe you will most likely lose at least a day getting to India. Depending where you are coming from you may want to break up the flight with an overnight along the way. Many flights from other countries arrive to India around midnight so we’ll take that into account and not plan much your first day.

From the airport you have a few ways to get to your hotel: via pre-arranged transportation by your hotel (email them to arrange before arriving), via a tour you arrange (we’ll discuss this more in detail in the next paragraph), or via Uber. We recommend against taxis as you will have to barter and can get ripped off easily.

We think your easiest option for getting around India (as a whole) is to go with a local tour company. This saves you grief and using a local company saves you money. The tour company we liked was Travel Matrix India (local and much cheaper than going with an American or European outfitter). Your other option is to do a combo of a company such as Stayfari which arranges car rentals and local tour guides or you can use them for a car and pick your own guides (we like Tours with Locals). If you choose a local company we do suggest that you choose where you want to stay. The places they picked were fine, but the few we picked and suggested were much better. The companies are usually fine arranging wherever you’d like to stay and see.

Grab dinner at your lodging tonight. In general it’s easy and pretty delicious to eat at your lodging in India (basically all hotels have restaurants).

Day 2 – Mumbai and Elephanta Island

Begin by heading to the Gate of India (a big monument like the Arc de Triomphe) at the end of the Mumbai peninsula. It’s where the boats leave to Elephanta Island (about an hour boat ride).

Gate of India

Elephanta Island hosts Buddhist and Hindu rock-cut temples which are lovely and impressive. The caves themselves are about a 1km walk from the boat dock (walk directly past the hecklers/stalls selling cheap souvenirs). Also you’ll see a lot of monkeys along the way. While cute, they are incredibly aggressive so be ware.

Elephanta Island Caves
Watch for thieving monkeys

In the afternoon, enjoy a day tour of Mumbai. We recommend you work with your tour guide or a day guide (like Tours by Locals) to see Marine Drive to Juhu Chowpati, Dhobi Ghat (the Mumbai slums – it’s not a tour of them but you’ll overlook them), the Hanging Gardens, Parsi Fire Temples, the Gandhi Memorial, Haji Ali Mosque, and Film City.

Mumbai Train Station

Grab dinner at your hotel (eat at Wasabi if you’re staying at the Taj Mahal Palace), or venture out to The Bombay Canteen, Masque, Trishna, Slink and Bardot, O Pedro, Bastian, or Yauatcha.

Dhobi Ghat

Day 3 – Madurai

In the morning fly to Madurai. At the time of writing this, there was a 9am flight via Air India that lets you arrive around 12:30pm. Your guide should meet you at the airport and drive you to the famous Meenakshi Temple.

We actually recommend starting at the Madurai flower market where you’ll see many people selling brightly colored orange, pink, and white garlands used to leave as offerings at the temple. It enjoyable to walk-through.

Madurai’s greatest landmark, the temple itself was built in the 16th century (though there has been a temple here for 2000 years) and covers 14 acres over Madurai. It’s amazing to wander through the fascinating labyrinth brightly painted corridors and halls.

Meenakshi Temple
Meenakshi temple interior

Afterwards head to the Thirumalai Naicker Palace, the remains of a once-grand palace from the 1600s. If you have additional time in the late afternoon head to the Gandhi Museum. With additional time head to the Koodal Azhagar Temple, a colorful temple dedicated to Vishnu or the Gandhi Museum. If you feel up to it, you can return to the temple in the evening where you can watch the nightly ritual of putting Shiva to bed.

For lodging, we recommend the Courtyard by Marriot, Gateway Hotel Pasumalai, or Heritage Madurai.

Day 4 – Munnar

Today you will drive to Munnar, India’s verdant rolling green hills of tea plantations. Yes, it’s a long, winding dive (4h15 min) but it’s beautiful and is a lovely, lush, relaxing part of India.

The tea plantations of Munnar

Learn about the process of making tea amongst an actual tea plantation at Munnar’s Tea Museum. While not a very long tour, it was very interesting. After your tour drive through Eravikulam National Park seeing sites along the way including various dams, lakes, and more plantations. Get out and enjoy a walk through the landscape.

School trip at Eravikalum Park

For lodging we recommend Spice Tree or Tall Trees.

Day 5 – Drive to Thekkady

Drive to Thekkaddy (3h drive). Thekkedy hosts Periyar National Park has been in existence since 1935. It’s a wildlife sanctuary and tiger reserve. The lake palace was the former hunting lodge of the Maharaja of Travancore. The best way to explore is by a 2 hour boat cruise where you’ll see a variety of birds (bring binoculars), sloth bears, bison, herds of elephants, and if you’re lucky, tigers.

Lake cruise through Periyar National Park

After your boat cruise, head to Green Park spice plantation where you can explore ayurvedic herb cultivation and learn more about Indian herbal medicine.

Periyar National Park

For lodging we recommend Niraamaya Retreats Cardamom Club, Shalimar Spice Garden, or Spice Village.

Day 6 – Kerala Houseboats

Today drive from Thekkady to Alleppey (4h1 drive). Arrive at the launch point for your houseboat.

You have a few options for choosing one: if you’re going through a guide company, let them do it for you or you can check out this site which gives a very good overview of boat options. In general, boats are not that expensive. It’s worth it to choose a deluxe or premium boat if you can afford it. Make sure you get one with air conditioning because it can get really hot and buggy on the backwaters. With your boat you’ll get a captain and cook/guide.

Houseboats near Alleppey

This boat trip was probably the highlight of all of India. You’ll steer through amazingly beautiful waterways and canal, pass rice paddies, floating villages and flower markets, and watch locals fish and live life along the river. If you’re lucky like we were you’ll also enjoy an amazing sunset and sunrise. It’s relaxing. Enjoy your private boat, lounging on comfortable seats while watching the waterways pass you by.

Kerala houseboats
Life along the canals
View from the houseboats

A few things to know:

  • You will most likely pull off to purchase a cold drink (think coke or beer) and locally caught seafood if you choose. You will need cash for this.
  • You may have the opportunity to walk the paths along the river for part of your ride. We loved this. You can chat with locals living along the river and it’s a nice walk.
  • Renting the boat includes meals (and they were very good) so they will cook for you on the boat.
  • Even as two young females, those of us that went as such felt very safe.
  • Bring bug spray – it gets buggy at night.
  • The shower uses water from the river so you may want to plan a second shower once you get off.
Sunset from the houseboat

Day 7 – Kochi

Today begins early. You will dock your boat around 7am (but that allows you to see a fantastic sunrise before you land).

Chinese Fishing Nets

Drive to Kochi (aka Cochin) – about 1 hour. Once you arrive meet your tour guide who should take you through Fort Kochi. Kochi, better known as Cochin, was built on the Arabian Sea and historically a blend of culture. Fort Cochi has an Old World charm and a blend of Dutch, Portuguese, and English bungalows and quiet, lovely, and walkable streets. See the Chinese fishing nets down at the beach, Mattancherry Palace, Jewish quarter with its Paradesi synagogue (India’s oldest synagogue, 1st century AD) and St. Francis Church.

Kochi jewish quarter

Before dinner catch a traditional Kathakali Show. Before the show the actors apply their intricate makeup onstage which you can watch. Kathakali is a blend of dance and performance that dates from the 17th century. The actors use hand gestures and complex facial expressions to convey the dialogue of their characters so you’ll feel like you understand what’s happening in the play.

Kathakali show

For dinner wander along the waterfront. The restaurants are bright, lively, and all sell fresh seafood. Select what you want out of the iced display and enjoy an outdoor dinner.

For lodging we recommend the Old Harbor Hotel Malabar house.

Day 8 – Aurangabad

Grab a morning flight to Aurangabad (approximately 4.5 hour flight). At the time of writing this there was a decent option leaving at 9:40am on IndiGo.

Named after the sixth Mughal emperor, Aurangzeb, Aurangabad is fast-growing city in western India.

Check into your lodgings. We recommend Vivanta Aurangabad.

In the afternoon head to Bibi Ka Maqbara aka the “mini Taj Mahal”. Prince Azam Shah, Aurangzeb’s eldest son, built Bibi Ka Maqbara in the late 1600s as a tribute to his mother. Originally intended to rival the Taj itself, Azam Shah was forced to curb his ambitions due to budgetary constraints. Today it remains a beautiful marble monument with grassy, well-kept grounds.

Bibi Ka Magbara

Day 9 – Aurangabad

Today drive to the Ajanta caves (about 100 km but can take up to 3 hours to get there). Built between about 200 BCE and 600 CE, the Ajanta caves are Buddhist monasteries and stupas carved into the solid rock on the side of a valley. Within the caves are stunning and remarkably well-preserved religious paintings and statues.

Ajanta caves, exterior
Ajanta Caves, interior

Drive back to Aurangabad and enjoy your hotel.

Day 10 – Aurangabad to Delhi

Drive out to Daulatabad (24m drive), the site of the Fort of Devagiri, an incredible, multi-level defense system. The fortress has a main entrance at the base of a hill. Within the thick, tall walls is a mosque, a reservoir, and a citadel with dark, winding, bat-infested passages that provide the only access to the upper levels. Spend a few hours exploring this amazing site, and then continue onto the Ellora Caves (20m drive).

Devagiri fort

The 34 caves at Ellora are, unlike those at Ajanta, actually buildings and structures carved out of sheer rock faces in the hills. Ellora contains Buddhist, Hindu, and Jain religious structures. Tour some of the Hindu temples and Kailasanatha Temple (Cave 16), which is the largest monolithic (carved from a single piece of rock) structure in the world. A temple to Shiva, Kailasanatha was built in the 700s CE.  It was carved out of the mountain, down from the top, and its construction required the removal of over 400,000 tons of rock. After ogling Kailashnath, explore the smaller stupas and temples.

Kailashnath temple , Ellora

From Ellora caves head to the airport (1h16 drive) and catch an early evening flight to Delhi (approx 2h flight).

Check into your lodging. We recommend Lodhi, Leela Palace, or Haveli Dharampur.

Day 11 – Delhi

Meet your guide in the morning for a tour of Delhi. Start with visiting Jama Masjid, the main mosque in Old Delhi. At the behest of India’s fifth Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan, construction of the mosque began in 1650. It was completed six years later. Built mostly of red sandstone, the mosque has a massive courtyard and the building itself boasts three huge domes.

Jama Masjid

Here’s your chance to experience a rickshaw ride which will give you the feel of Old Delhi. A small carriage linked to a bicycle, your rickshaw will bump and sway down the narrow, uneven streets letting you experience the sights, sounds, and smells of Old Delhi. Much of Old Delhi is a maze of tiny alleys with messes of electrical wires strung above them.

The streets of Old Delhi

Next head to the major monuments throughout the capital. Visit Mahatma Gandhi’s tomb, and the outsides of the Sansad Bhavan (house of parliament) and the Ministry of Defense. Next head to the India Gate, a huge arch modeled after the Arc de Triomphe built by the British to memorialize Indian soldiers who died in World War I.

India Gate

After the India Gate, visit the tomb of Humayun, the second Mughal emperor. An awe-inspiring structure of red sandstone and white marble, the tomb itself is a massive building at the center of a beautiful, sprawling garden. Humayun’s tomb was so grandiose that it even included a separate building that was the tomb for the emperor’s barber.

Humayun’s Tomb

Next visit Qutub Minar, at about 240 feet the highest minaret in India. Built by some of the first Muslim rulers in India, the tower was completed in 1052 C.E. The tower and the surrounding building and grounds are incredibly beautiful. Given that it was erected almost a millennium ago, Qutub Minar is a remarkable architectural feat.

Qutub Minar

After your day of sightseeing, return to your lodging (same place)

In India, everyone shares the road

Day 12 – Varanasi

The next morning fly to Varanasi (about a 1h flight, at the time of writing there was a Go Air flight that leaves at 10:30). Once you arrive meet your guide and explore the city’s archaeological museum. The museum contains some amazing treasures, including a pillar and capstone carved almost 2,000 years ago. Despite its age, the capstone was made out of polished sandstone, using a technique that no one has been able to replicate to this day.

Next, drive to Sarnath to see Mulagandha Kuti and Dhamekh Stupa, the site of Buddhist monasteries where the Buddha himself studied and preached. The stupa is said to be the spot where the Buddha gave his first sermon after attaining enlightenment.

Dhamekh Stupa

In the evening take a rickshaw out to the banks of the Ganges, where you can watch the evening prayer ceremony. The rickshaw ride is an experience. Varanasi is the busiest, dirtiest, and most crowded place we’ve ever been. The streets were packed with rickshaws, pedestrians, scooters, cows, cars, beggars, and trash. When you finally arrive at the Ganges for the prayer ceremony, the sounds are amazing, and it is incredible to watch.

For lodging, we recommend Suryauday Haveli, Shiva Ganges View, or Nedesar Palace (night 1/1).

Varanasi evening prayer

Day 13 – Varanasi to Agra

Early the next morning, return to the riverbank for a sunrise boat ride on the river. Float downstream and see pilgrims bathing in the water, watch a beautiful sunrise emerging from the smog, and see Varansi’s famous crematoriums. Even from the middle of the river, the funeral pyres are visible, burning high on the riverbanks.

The Ganges near Varanasi at dawn
Ganges at Varanasi at dawn

After the boat ride, your guide can wind you on a tour through the jumbled streets of the city. Along the way you’ll see the Kashi Hindu University, temples including the Bharat Mata (Mother of India Temple) which features a huge relief map of India and the surrounding regions made entirely of black and white marble, and craft shops.

Silk shopping Varanasi

In the early afternoon fly to Delhi (approx 1.5 hour flight) and then drive to Agra (3h13 drive).

In Agra stay at the ITC Mughal , Taj Hotel, Trident, or Oberoi Amarvillas. `

Day 14 –  Taj Mahal

Agra itself is wholly unremarkable, but it contains two unmissable sites. The first is of course the Taj Mahal. Wake up early to get to the site before most tourists. The Taj Mahal is one of those few astounding places that manages to exceed your expectations, no matter how lofty. The palace itself is made of shining white marble. Its walls are covered with inscriptions and designs that are finely crafted marble inlay.

The Taj Mahal

The Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan built the Taj between 1632 and 1653 as a tribute to Mumtaz Mahal, his third wife. Four hundred years later, the monument still stands, widely said to be the most beautiful building in the world. Having been there and admired the massive dome, the beautiful gardens, the idyllic pool, and stunningly intricate marble inlay, we have to agree.

Marble inlay on the wall of Taj Mahal

The other site is the Red Fort. Covering 94 acres and boasting a 2.5 kilometer circumference, the fort was built by the Mughal Emperor Akbar in 1565. The Fort contains sprawling gardens, beautiful examples of marble inlay, and intricately decorated rooms.

Entrance to red fort

Day 15 – Agra to Jaipur

Drive from Agra to Jaipur and en route visit Fatehpur Sikri, a city built in 1500 by Maharana Sangram Singh (41m drive). Akbar conquered the city, and it served as his capital from 1571-1585. But the lack of a nearby water source and the extreme heat of the summer led to the city’s abandonment. It remains a beautiful city, made of red sandstone, that is very well-preserved. It also contains its own Jama Masjid, a huge mosque modeled after the one in Delhi.

Fatehpur Sikri

Continue onto Jaipur (3h14 drive).

Fatehpur Sikri

Check into your lodgings and have a leisurely evening. We recommend Samode Haveli, Taj Rambagh Palace, or Alsisar Haveli.

Day 16 – Jaipur

Known as the pink city, Jaipur is clean with broad streets, and the old part of town is made entirely from pink sandstone and today you’ll enjoy exploring.

Palace of winds Jaipur

Start with the Amer Fort (the Yellow Palace), the second-largest palace in the world (after Versailles). You have two options for getting to the top: walking or riding elephants. We can’t in good faith recommend you ride the elephants because there are a lot of issues with animal cruelty in India (and this particular site has not escaped scrutiny). So, choose instead to enjoy elephants on a conservation reserve elsewhere in India and feel the burn in your legs walking up.

Amer fort

Amer Fort is stunning. It boasts incredible views of the lake below and the surrounding hillsides. The palace itself is enormous. It has room after beautiful room and boasts bathrooms that had running hot water. It has a hall of mirrors, with reflecting panes on all sides, a beautiful garden, and a system of ramps designed for servants to push the queen around in a wheelchair because she wore so much jewelry she couldn’t walk.

Spend the rest of the day visiting some of the other sights of Jaipur, including Jal Mahal, the summer palace, which sits out in the middle of the lake, Jantar Mantar, the site of the royal observatory with the largest sundial in the world and the city palace. Both were built by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II (r. 1699-1743), who was a remarkable mathematician and astronomer as well as a talented ruler. He was said to speak 17 languages. If you’re interested in shopping, with extra time you can visit local craftsmen at a textile factory, a gem cutting and polishing site, or a marble inlay craft shop.

Jal Mahal summer palace
City Palace Jaipur

Day 17 – Jaipur to Jodhpur

Known as the Blue City for its blue-washed houses Jodhpur is towered over by the Mehrangarh Fort. It will take you about 5.5 hours of driving or a 5 hour train ride to get to Jodhpur by Jaipur so much of your day will be spent in transit.

Once you arrive, check into your lodgings. We recommend Ajit Bhawan Palace, Umaid Bhawan Palace, or Raas.

In the afternoon, catch a camel ride into the desert. If you’re going with a tour, they can arrange a ride for you. If not, ask your hotel for a recommendation (there are a lot of companies all offering similar tours). All of the tours are very similar, taking you to Osian, an ancient town in the Thar desert, famous for ancient temples from the 8th to 11th century and most tours allow you to enjoy the sunset over dinner.

Jodhpur Sunset

Day 18 – Jodhpur

Today you will tour Jodhpur. Begin by seeing the Sardar Bazaar in the heart of the Old City which is surrounded by an 6 mile wall with 8 gates. The bazaar itself is clustered around a clocktower and you’ll see a lot of artisan goods around this area.

Next head to the Jaswant Thada, a marble memorial built in in the late 1800s by maharaja Jaswant Singh II.

Mehrangarh Fort

The most important site in town is the Mehrangarh Fort. The fort, founded in 1459, rises out of a 400 foot rock above Jodhpur. It’s the most majestic of Rajasthan forts. The palaces within, built over the following centuries, are lavishly decorated. There is also a Fort Museum onsite which has an interesting collection of royal objects including royal chambers and give insight to life in Rajasthan.

Finally head to the Umaid Bhavan Palace (you can also stay here, though its pricey). This is a fusion of Rajput Jain and art deco styles. It was begun in 1929 and took 15 years to complete. This immense palace is built of pink sandstone and marble and hosts 347 rooms (including a hall which can seat 1000 people for dinner). It’s a prime example of India’s opulence.

Day 19 – Udaipur

Leave Jodhpur for Udaipur (4h16 drive).

Udaipur is dreamy. A collection of marble palaces and lakes surrounded by a ring of hills was founded by Maharana Udai Singh in 1559. The massive city palace overlooks the lake and dominates the city. Along the lake front are palaces and temples. It’s a city in which you can stroll. Meet your tour guide for the day.

Start by seeing the City Palace. It has a fortress-like facade and is the largest palace of Rajasthan. It’s actually complex of multiple palaces built onto between the 16th to 20th centuries. Part of it is museums and other parts hotels. The oldest part dates from 1658 with royal apartments and courtyards. The City Palace Museum is spread between a few of the palaces and is worth a visit.

Bhansi Ghat boat tour

Grab a boat tour from Bhansi Ghat just south of the palace museum of Lake Pichola to see two of the lake palaces, Jag Mandir and Jag Niwas. Jag Mandir is an island palace worth a visit. It has lush gardens and colorful stone inlaid in its stone work (and is thought to have inspired the Taj Mahal). Jag Niwas is the lake palace and now one of the world’s great hotels (if you can’t afford to stay here at least enjoy a meal to enjoy the opulence).

The lake at Udaipur

In the early evening wander along the lake and Old Town, enjoying its lively scene and craftwork.

For lodging we recommend Taj Lake Palace, Jagat Niwas Palace, or Leela Palace.

Day 20 – 21 – Return to Mumbai and Fly Home

Enjoy a morning in Udaipur.

Catch an afternoon flight to Mumbai (at the time of writing there was one around 4pm by Air India) for a 1.5 hour flight back. Most flights leave in the early hours after midnight and have you arrive the same day. Either spend the night in Mumbai before leaving the next morning for home or grab dinner in Mumbai before a middle of the night flight.

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