England

England

England

This three week trip hits the highlights of this beautiful and historic country. You’ll start in bustling London, then head to quaint villages and see a smattering of palaces and castles in between. We also throw in a day trip to nearby Wales.

To make this trip shorter you can reduce your time in London to 2-3 days or simply use London as a jumping off point for the rest of the trip.

This trip can be done by train but for maximal flexibility and ease we suggest renting a car once you get out of London. If you are from most of the world (where driving on the left side of the road just seems wrong) – trust us you can do it.

Length 3 weeks

Best guide book – Rick Steves England

Transportation – Tube, train, car

Day 1-7 – London

Day 1 – Westminster Abbey to Trafalgar Square

Day 2 – Tower of London and Central London

Day 3 – Changing of the Guard, the British Museum, and High Tea

Day 4 – Southwark

Day 5 – Thames Cruise to Hampton Court and Kew Gardens

Day 6 – Day 6 – Greenwich and Victoria and Albert

Day 7 – Cambridge day trip

Day 8 – Windsor and Bath

Day 9 – Bath

Day 10 – Avebury, Stonehenge, Salisbury

Day 11 – Glastonbury and Wells

  • Drive to Glastonbury (39m drive)
  • Drive to Wells (16 m drive)
  • Wilkins cider farm (20m drive)
  • Return to Bath (57m drive)
  • Afternoon drinks or tea
  • Dinner – select a different one from the night before
  • Lodging – same place (night 4/4)

Day 12 – Oxford, Blenheim Palace, Cotswolds

Day 13 – Cotswolds

  • Explore Cotswold’s villages
    • Chipping Camden
    • Stanway House
    • Stanton
    • Stow on the Wold
    • Bourton on the Water
    • Lower Slaughter
  • Lunch – try a restaurant listed for dinner above
  • Walk in the countryside
    • Start in Stowe on the Wold and head to Upper Slaughter then Lower Slaughter then Bourton on the Water (about 6 miles), then 801 bus back to Stowe
    • Start at Chipping Campden and take the Cotswold way southwest among copses, crossing the Gloucestershire-Worcestershire border under the turrets of Broadway Tower, continue along the Way to the village of Broadway (about 5 miles), and from here, circle back to Chipping Campden on footpaths that run parallel to the north, or else board the 608 bus
    • Rent horses at the Vine B and B in Stanton to explore the gorgeous countryside by saddle
  • Drive to Stratford-upon-Avon (19m drive)
  • Dinner – The Woodsman or Salt
  • Royal Shakespeare Theater Play
  • Drinks – Dirty Duck
  • Lodging – same place (night 2/2)

Day 14 – Warwick Castle to Chester

Day 15 – North Wales: Conwy, Bodnant Garden, Caernarfon

  • Drive to Conwy (57m drive)
  • Drive to Bondant Gardens (12m drive)
    • Visit the gardens
  • Drive to Caernarfon (39m drive)
  • Drive back to Chester (1h17m drive)
  • Dining – select a different one from the night before
  • Lodging – same place (2/2)

Day 16 – Chester to Keswick

Day 17- Lake District

Day 18 – Hadrian’s wall, Durham, York

Day 19 – York

Day 20 – York to Heathrow

  • More exploration of York
  • Drive to Heathrow Airport (4h drive)
  • Return rental car
  • Lodging – at the airport at Heathrow airport hotel Hyatt Place, Courtyard; Marriot, Hilton Garden Inn

Day 21 – Fly home

  • Say goodbye to England and fly home

In Depth Itinerary

Welcome to England! We start with one of the great cities of the world – London – then head out of town to visit the gorgeous English (and Welsh) countryside.

To make this trip shorter you can reduce your time in London to 2-3 days.

You do NOT want a car in London but once outside of town, having one will make your life much easier. You can do the trip by train and bus but smaller villages (especially in the Cotswolds) are challenging without a car.

There are 3 airports in London. Stansted is the furthest out. Heathrow is the biggest. Not as much comes through Gatwick. If you arrive by plane, take the tube from Heathrow or buy the faster but pricey express train. The express train option shaves off 20ish minutes but costs twice as much. The tube is the slower option, takes about an hour, and is much cheaper. Both arrive at Paddington Station at which point you will have to change to the Tube anyway. Look for signs when you arrive that point you to the train, and you can buy your ticket from any automated machine. If you arrive into Gatwick take the Gatwick Express Train to Tower stop. If you arrive via train, you’ll arrive to one of the major stations and can switch to the Tube from there.

London is pricey for lodging so shop around and see our London lodging page for some ideas. You might have better luck with an apartment rental. Any time of the year is a good time to visit, but summer does lead to inevitable crowds of tourists, and, in recent years, some very hot weather (many older hotels are not air-conditioned as hot weather has not been much of a problem until recently – so check on that).

Day 1 – Westminster Abbey to Trafalgar Square

Depending on what time you arrive, you may not have time for a full day – but we have set it up as if you do. Feel free to mix and match as needed. Today you’ll start out at Westminster Abbey and set off on foot from there. Westminster Abbey is a church with an incredible amount of history – kings and queens have been crowned and buried here since 1066 (there are 3000 tombs in the church). Visit early to avoid crowds and book online to avoid the entrance line. There is an included audio tour but you can also take a “verger” tour with a docent for a small extra cost. As you wander this magnificent church be sure and visit the tombs of the stars of English history (including Elizabeth I, Mary Queen of Scotts, Sir Isaac Newton ,etc). Marvel at how they can clear the clutter to stage royal weddings and coronations. This is not just another church – this is English history personified.

Westminster Abbey

It is a relatively short walk from the abbey to a truly amazing sight – the Churchill War Rooms. During World War II, much of the war effort was conducted from bunkers beneath Whitehall due to the frequent bombings. Churchill worked and slept here and much of the war effort was directed from these bunkers. After the war ended, the doors were suddenly locked and the bunker remained secret and forgotten until 1984 when the main war rooms opened to the public. Today you can tour the rooms as an essentially undisturbed time capsule from 1945 – including original maps on the walls, cots where the staff slept, and an excellent Churchill museum.

From here it is a short walk to the Houses of Parliament and a view of famous Big Ben clock and clock tower. The Palace of Westminster is the actual name of the houses of parliament and can be visited in a 90 minute tour when Parliament is not in session. The highlight is Westminster Hall, built by the son of William the Conqueror over 900 years ago in 1097.

Big Ben and Houses of Parliament

From Parliament you will head to Trafalgar Square, only a 14 minute walk away. On the way, you will pass the Banqueting House – worth a visit to pop in and see what remains of the original Whitehall Palace and and impressive hall. It was here that Cromwell decapitated Charles I and then later that the monarchy was again restored once Cromwell died.

Continue to wander to Trafalgar Square, the center of modern London. Look up and say hello to Admiral Nelson (naval hero who beat Napoleon) at the top of the giant column. By now it is lunch time (if not past) – so time to grab something to eat. Consider St Martin-in-the-Field‘s Cafe in the Crypt, The Chandos Pub, or Ochre or Muriel’s Kitchen at the National Gallery (High Tea is also available here in the afternoon).

The excellent National Gallery museum is located right on Trafalgar square and should be your next stop. Wander through, passing from Medieval to Renaissance to the Dutch Masters to Baroque to Romanticism to Impressionism with some of the most famous paintings in the world on display. The National Portrait Gallery is right next door. This portrait gallery offers a surprisingly interesting look at the rich and famous (Elizabeth I, Crowell, the Bronte Sisters, Darwin, the Beatles) of English History.

By now you have had a full day and it’s time to grab a drink. Head to nearby Gordon’s Wine Bar. Plan on an earlier dinner tonight. You can stay at Gordon’s or head to nearby The Barbary or Evelyn’s Table so you can make it to a show at one of the famous West End Theaters.

After your show cab or tube back to you lodging.

Day 2 – Tower of London to Central London

Start your day at the Tower of London. This is another sight that is very busy and can sell out in advance so ideally get a voucher in advance and be there when it opens – usually at 9. Upon arrival pick up the free map/ guide with list of day’s activities and times. Start with the crown jewels, as the queue to see them can be long. You will pass a series of informational videos and exhibit rooms and then climb onto a moving sidewalk that takes you past the actual crown jewel collection (and keeps the crowds moving). You can climb back on for a second viewing if you wish.

Tower of London

From here head back to near the entrance and join a free and entertaining Beefeater tour for a great overview of the fortress (usually leaves every half hour). After that you can take your time to wander and see what you may not have covered. Be sure and see the White Tower museum.

By now it is probably getting to be near time for lunch so head to the Tower Hill tube station and grab the Circle or District line to Embankment station than walk 5 minutes to grab lunch in the Crypt Cafe at St Martin’s in the Fields. Tour the church and try your hand at brass rubbing in the store.

From here either do your own walking tour or chose from one of the afternoon London City Walks. If doing your own, the Rick Steves Historic London: The City Walk is a good one. Start at St Clement Danes built by Christopher Wren and now an RAF chapel and memorial to RAF servicemen. From here visit the Royal Courts of Justice complex, 17 Fleet Street (one of the few buildings to survive the great fires of 1610), Temple Church (a Knight Templar/Crusader Church from 1185), and the Inns of Court – a maze of buildings and courtyards which is a self-contained city of lawyers and law students where you can catch a glimpse of barristers in traditional gowns and wigs. Head down Fleet Street to St. Dunstan-in-the-West, a survivor of the great fire of 1666, and then head through the narrow lanes of post fire 1700’s London to Dr. Johnson’s house and the very traditional Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese Tavern. Grab a pint now or at least pop in for a glimpse of a tavern unchanged for over 500 years. From here, stop by St. Bride’s Church and the Old Bailey on your way to the magnificent St. Paul’s cathedral, Wren’s masterpiece and England’s national church.

Grab a drink at Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese or The Black Friar pub. For dinner, plan for pub fare or try the very good 40 Maltby Street, Restaurant St Barts or select from London restaurant recommendations.

Day 3 – Changing of the Guard, the British Museum, and High Tea

Once while in England, you should experience a Full English Breakfast. Generally this includes eggs, sausage, beans, stewed tomatoes and mushrooms, sometimes black pudding, and always way too much food. Your hotel might offer one, or you can try one at The Wolseley or Regency Café.

To see the very popular Changing of Guard at Buckingham Palace it pays to line up about an hour ahead (guard changes at 11). Afterwards, enjoy a stroll through nearby Hyde Park, a beautiful and relaxing green space in the heart of London. Hyde Park is big, one and a half miles long and a mile wide. It was originally taken over by Henry VIII by the monks at Westminster Abbey for his deer hunting expeditions. The paths are wide and serene and you may pass runners, boaters, horses, or even protesters (at Speaker’s Corner). You could have lunch nearby at Gymkhana or at your next stop, the British Museum.

If you feel like walking, the British Museum is about half an hour away. If you don’t feel like doing this, take the Tube or sample another London tradition, the London taxi. London taxis are famous for knowledgeable, friendly drivers. The prices are generally reasonable and the cabbies have to pass a test proving an outstanding knowledge of London streets. If a top light is on, just wave it down.

The British Museum is an amazing place – imagine the best archeological artifacts from all over the world gathered into one place and you have an idea of the British Museum. You can easily spend several hours (or days) here, and we suggest you do.

In the British Museum

From the museum, wander through Bloomsbury, the heart of literary. Pop into the many varied book stores, including Skoob Books, Judd Books, and London Review of Books. End at the British Library, whose collection of books on display is truly outstanding.

After the library it is time for another classic London experience – High Tea. Many places offer this, pick the one that matches your aesthetic (and budget). You’ll want to arrange reservations in advance. There will be plenty to eat so you may want to forgo full dinner but if you get hungry later consider Noble Rot, Speedboat Bar Kitty Fishers, or a place from our restaurant recommendations.

Day 4 – Southwark

Start your day at Borough Market. The historic market remains a fascinating mix of food stands, stalls both food and artisan, and some amazing eateries. Have breakfast or a very early lunch here at Padella or one of the other amazing options.

The South Bank is one of the London’s best bits. Generally located between the Westminster and London bridges, it offers about two-miles of excellent, largely state-funded arts and entertainment venues alongside breezy, traffic-free views of a succession of city landmarks (Big Ben, St. Paul’s, the Tower of London) that lie on the north bank. No wonder it attracts over 14 million people per year. If you have limited time in the capital, South Bank is great because it has everything, including a selection of good restaurants and street food offerings.

Wander along to the Tate Modern, one of the world’s premiere’s modern art museums. If you’re up for another museum visit the Imperial War Museum which covers the very interesting history of England at war.

Venture at least part way across Millennium bridge towards Big Ben for a great mid-river view of both banks and the Thames running through. If you have your heart set on the London Eye, this is your chance. The Eye is quite expensive and in our opinion not really worth it. London’s not an especially beautiful city to look at from above. It’s not Vienna or Taipei. Architecturally speaking, there’s only so much excitement a visitor can feel about seeing Ally Pally in the distance. There are other places in the city you can get great views of the London landscape and it is a pricey ride, but you’re pretty close by.

By now it’s time for dinner and drinks and we recommend the George Inn, the last of of the original coaching inns (and a haunt of Shakespeare).

Not far from here is your evening’s entertainment – a play at Shakespeare’s Globe. We definitely recommend arranging to see a play here – and if your legs have the fortitude, forgo joining the gentry seated in the galleries and stand as a “groundling” (for a fraction of the cost). Get there early and you can rest your elbows on the stage.

Shakespeare’s Globe

Day 5 – Thames Cruise to Hampton Court and Kew Gardens

If the weather is good today head out of London to Hampton Court (Royal Palace of Henry VII) and the Royal Botanical Gardens at Kew. These two sites are outside of London upstream on the Thames and the most pleasant way to see them is on a Thames river cruise. You can easily reach Hampton Court by train and Kew Gardens by Tube but getting between them is a bit of a pain (somewhat long bus ride or short but somewhat pricey cab ride) so it really makes sense to see the two together when there is a boat that connects the two during the spring or summer. Kew is mostly worthwhile in the spring/summer anyway so other times of the year plan on Hampton Court by itself or coupled with Greenwich. Check the boat schedule for Thames River Boats.

Hampton Court was the home of Henry VIII and Elizabeth I and was updated for William and Mary. The Tudor rooms are the most interesting. There are also gardens and a maze down toward the river. Have lunch in the Tudor dining hall then depart for Kew Gardens.

Kew Gardens is a lovely riverside park with a huge diversity of plants and some lovely Victorian greenhouses filled with tropical plants and water lilies. Grab a brochure to see what is blooming. Have a snack at the Orangery cafeteria then head back to London via Tube or boat if the schedule works for your visit.

Choose a restaurant for dinner from our London Restaurant Recommendations.

London at Sunset

Day 6 – Greenwich and Victoria and Albert

Start your day at the Greenwich Royal Museums, a world heritage site focused on Maritime exploration and astronomy. There are several separate museums here including the Cutty Sark, a 150 year old fast cargo sailing ship (“clipper ship”), the National Maritime Museum, Queens House gallery, and Royal Observatory (where “Greenwich mean time” starts).

Next visit the Victoria and Albert Museum, the world’s largest museum of applied arts, decorative arts and design, which houses a permanent collection of over 2.27 million objects. The buildings and collections are actually quite interesting and worth a visit.

If you’re interested, you can tour Buckingham Palace today. The current home of the British monarchy, during the winter, spring, and for 10 weeks of the summer you can tour the State Rooms.

Additionally, you can visit one of London’s most charming neighborhoods: Nottingham and it’s quirky Portobello Market. Picture perfect townhouses rise along either side of Portobello Road. There’s something open every day, but the biggest market is from Friday to Sunday. You can wander along antique shops, food stalls, and new artist shops. It’s also a fun area to grab a bite to eat or drink.

You can finish up your day at Hampstead Heath. Instead of the perfectly manicured downtown London Royal Parks, Hampstead Heath is a wild and overgrown area of countryside just north of Camden Town. It’s said to have inspired C.S. Lewis’ Narnia. The Heath is 791 acres big, full of woods, fields, and swimming ponds, and a perfect place to enjoy sunset.

Day 7 – Cambridge day trip

Today is the day to explore the nearby charming and historic university town of Cambridge. Make your way to King’s Cross train station and grab the twice-an-hour train to Cambridge (45 minutes). The train station is about a mile from the main part of town so either walk or grab a bus into town. A good way to get oriented is to take a walking tour. These happen every day in the summer, but not every day the rest of the year so check the website for details. If there is no tour on your day or no convenient time offered, you can certainly do a self- guided walk (there’s a good one in Rick Steves England). Your walk to see all of the sites will take a couple of hours and will include stops like Market square, Emmanuel College, Pembroke College, and the River Cam/Mill pond where you can pick up your punt (boat) later. From here, check out the Corpus clock, the Eagle Pub, St Benet’s church (from the 11th century), and finish with the impressive Kings College Chapel and its beautiful stained glass.

King’s College Chapel

For lunch you have some great pub choices. The previously mentioned Eagle Pub is the oldest pub in town with interesting WW2 graffiti still in place. This is where Crick announced the double helix discovery of DNA (which was actually stolen from Rosalind Frank, but that’s another story…). The food at this pub, however, is pretty mediocre so you might just want to grab a pint and continue onto Anchor Pub (the site of Pink Floyd’s first gig with a nice riverside terrace), the Mill Pub (which offers craft brews along the riverside), or Parker’s Tavern (which has the best food).

After lunch take some time to pop into the Fitzwilliam Museum with its nice collection of antiquities and art (including Italian masters and Impressionists).

In the afternoon go punting on the Cam. You can rent a punt or get someone to “drive” you (with narration). You’ll cruise down the “backs” of the colleges with some very lovely views. After your expedition grab a pint at the Orator (or one of the other pubs listed above). Though if you decide to rent your own punt you might need that pint first….

After your collegiate adventures in Cambridge head back to the train station and return to London

Day 8 – Windsor and Bath

Today bid farewell to London and head out to the charming English countryside. For the rest of the trip you will be car based. Grab a train or tube to Heathrow and pick up a rental car. It saves the very high cost and very high hassle of driving in London by getting your car at the airport.

Today you are headed to Bath but this is a great opportunity to visit Windsor Castle along the way. One caveat is that the castle may be closed if the Royal Family is here, so be sure check before visiting and buy tickets for castle in advance. Windsor can get crowded so arrive before 11 to beat the crowds.

Windsor Castle entry fee includes entry to all of the castle grounds and all of its interiors and indoor exhibits. Once inside, take one of the free 30 minute guided tours around the grounds. Also pick up the included audioguide for the interiors which you will be seeing after the grounds tour. After touring grounds queue for State Apartments (skip Queen Mary’s doll’s house unless there is no line as it’s not worth it). The state apartments are full of hundreds of years of English monarch history and the sumptuous interiors are very impressive. Your tour includes the lovely gothic St. George Chapel with numerous royal tombs.

After your morning at the castle grab lunch in the cute village of Windsor at The Ivy, The Duchess of Cambridge Pub, The Horse and Groom Pub, or Meimo.

After lunch hop back in the car for an hour and a half drive to lovely Bath. You should have time to settle in to your lodgings for the next four days, poke around the town’s shops, take a swim in Britain’s oldest lido dating back 200 years at Cleveland Pools, or grab drinks at the Dark Horse or The Raven and walk around a bit before getting dinner one of our recommendations: The White Hart, Circus Kitchen, Clayton’s Kitchen, The Circus, Scallop Shell, The White Hart, Noya’s kitchen, Bath Priory, or Corkage.

Bath

For lodging consider Hotel Indigo, Eight, Gainsborough, Number 15 by Guesthouse, the Yard, Kennard, or Roseatte Villa.

Day 9 – Bath

Bath flowered three times in its history – first as a Roman spa town, then as THE place to be seen in the 18th century, and finally now, when tourism has literally caused the town to flower (flowers are everywhere). This lovely town is full of neoclassical limestone Georgian architecture. For fans of Bridgerton this is your place (much of it was filmed here).

Start your day at the historic Roman Baths (opens at 9 – buy advance tickets at the TI and skip the line). The hot springs here are literally what put Bath on the map. An audioguide is included, but you can also join a guided tour which leaves on the hour and is free. This Roman complex sat undisturbed for centuries after the Romans left until being excavated in the late 1800’s. The museum is full of Roman artifacts and models of the original site.

Roman baths

After your Roman excursion grab a free City Walking Tour with The Mayor’s Corps of Honorary Guides (departs at 10:30 and 14:00) to learn about the Georgian social scene.

Depending on your walking tour time, before or after head to the very elegant Pump Room for afternoon tea. Tea goes all afternoon (starting with a 12:30 seating) and there’s plenty of good food and live music.

Make sure to stop into the Bath Abbey dominating the town center to admire the architecture. From here walk about 10 minutes to the Circus and Royal Crescent, a very ritzy Georgian housing complex. Make your way inside No 1 Royal Crescent for a look at life behind the classy exteriors of 1700’s Bath.

For dinner tonight plan on eating a bit early at one of the places not tried the night before to be ready for your 8pm walking “tour” with the Bizarre Bath Street Theater for an hour and a half of “something hysterical rather than historical”.

Day 10 – Avebury, Stonehenge, Salisbury

Yesterday was focused on the Romans from the first Century and the Georgians from the 18th but today we head WAY back in time to 2800 BC to visit some amazing Neolithic sites. Depending on your schedule you may want to move days around to do this day on Tuesday or Saturday to visit the market at Salisbury.

Start your day by driving to Stonehenge. Stonehenge is an immensely popular site. You can beat the crowds by getting tickets in advance and arriving before the tour busses (before 10:30 to beat crowds). On arrival head out to the stones first then circle back to the exhibits. Despite the hype it really is an impressive site – made even more so because it stands isolated out in the middle of fields. You can take a shuttle bus from the visitor center or walk 1.25 miles to the stones. The visitor center exhibit provides helpful context. Allow for a couple of hours.

Stonehenge

Next, drive to Salisbury. Easy central parking is available at Old George Mall parking garage. Pop into St. Thomas church to see a nice Last Judgement painting and then head to the Salisbury Cathedral. Salisbury is dominated by its magnificent gothic cathedral with the tallest spire in England. If you ever wondered how these magnificent churches were constructed 800 years ago you can take a tower tour and get a sense of how it was done (climbing between the stone arches and roof and seeing a medieval winch used in the construction). Tours are very limited in how many can go so be sure and book in advance.

If you were clever and came on market day you may want to grab some picnic fixings (or if not stop in at Reeve the Baker for a take away lunch) and head to the Cathedral Close – a large green area owned by the cathedral encircled by houses and mansions on the green along a bend of the river Avon. There are benches which perfect for your picnic. While at the Close pop visit the nearby Salisbury Museum occupying one of the Close buildings that houses an eclectic collection of Salisbury history.

If they are open it is a close drive to the nearby Wilton House and Gardens (closed weekends and September to April). This is a classy estate with gorgeous rooms oozing with history of the family that still uses the place on weekends.

From here head to the second Neolithic site of the day – the Avebury stone circle. This stone circle lacks some of the majesty of Stonehenge as there is a village that grew up in the middle of it, but it is 16 times larger and 600 years older than Stonehenge. Here there are no guard rails – you can wander among and even touch the stones, passing through a large Ritual Procession Way leading to the circle.

From Avebury it’s a 52 minute drive back to Bath and the 21st century (masquerading as the 18th), dinner and lodging.

Day 11 -Glastonbury and Wells

Today we head for Glastonbury and Wells. Glastonbury is famous for a few things: each summer there is an enormous music festival, Joseph of Arimathea was said to have brought the holy grail here and stashed it in a well, and supposedly this is the place where King Arthur and Guinevere are buried. The town in humming with new age energy and the high street is filled with “New Age” shops where you can stock up on your incense and crystals.

The massive abbey at Glastonbury was the leading Christian pilgrimage site in Britain until Henry VIII ordered the dissolution of the monasteries in 1539. When the abbot at the time objected, he was hung from the abbey, quartered, and had his head stuck over the gateway. This seriously reduced objections from abbots at other monasteries. Glastonbury was destroyed after this, and is now an enormous and evocative ruin. Buy something from the shops in town and picnic on the grounds.

From the Abbey, head to Chalice Well Gardens (walk 15 minutes or drive). This is a delightful garden that holds the well where the holy grail was supposedly stashed. It is also the start of the path up to the Glastonbury Tor – a hill with a tower of sandstone on top and a great view of the surroundings.

From Glastonbury, it’s a short 16 minute drive to Wells, a delightful little medieval cathedral town with the first completely gothic cathedral in England (AD 1200). If you can arrange it, market day is on Wednesdays. The cathedral has some interesting and unique features including “scissors” arches and an elaborate façade. If here in the evening, the evensong is memorable. The nearby Vicars Close is the oldest continuously occupied street in Europe – lined with identical 14th century houses. The adjacent Bishop’s palace has lovely grounds, ponds, swans, and cathedral views. From Wells drive back to Bath.

If you decide to forgo evensong, a slightly less reverent afternoon activity is at the Wilkins cider farm where you can get local cheeses and (powerful) local hard ciders (their website says it will put hairs on the hairs on your chest). It’s a short detour on your way back to Bath.

Day 12 – Oxford, Blenheim Palace, Cotswolds

Today we bid farewell to Bath. It’s about an hour and a half drive to the university town of Oxford. Even though you visited Cambridge, Oxford, home to the oldest university in the English speaking world, is well worth a visit. Once again start with a walk – either on your own with a guidebook ar join a more formal Oxford walking tour. Sights to see include Balliol college, the enormous Blackwell’s bookstore, the Museum of the history of science, Sheledonian Theater, Bodleian Library, Divinity School, Historic Quad, and Radcliffe Square. Visit Christchurch College and Magdalen College and be sure and stop in the excellent art and archeology Ashmolean Museum.

After grabbing lunch in Oxford, drive 18 minutes to nearby Blenheim Palace to see one of the best palaces in England (still lived in) and the place Winston Churchill was born.

From Blenheim it’s drive 42 minutes to the charming stone villages of the Cotswolds where you’ll spend the next two nights. All of the villages are lovely making it hard to choose, but consider the following excellent choices: in Broadway, stay at Lygon Arms Hotel, Fish Hotel, Foxhill Manor, or Dormy House; in Stanton, stay at The Vine B and B (particularly for folks wanting to horseback ride); in Chipping Campden, stay at Noel Arms Hotel or Eight Bell’s Inn; in Stow on Wold, stay at King’s Arms, Stowe Lodge Hotel; in Kingham, stay at Wild Rabbit.

Likewise there are many choices for good dining including Eight Bell’s Inn , Horse and Groom Village Inn (Stow on Wold), Ebrington Arms (Chipping Campden), Lords of the Manor (Upper Slaughter), Wild Rabbit (Kingham), Kingham Plough (Kingham), the Chequers (Churchill), and Lamb Inn (Shipton Under Wynchwood). None of these are too far from one another and all are solid choices.

Day 13 – Cotswolds

It is truly hard to describe just how cute this area is. Rolling green hills, charming stone villages, and tons of sheep make this are an absolute delight to explore by car or foot. For some great walking, consider one of the following hikes. Option 1: Start in Stowe on the Wold and head to Upper Slaughter then Lower Slaughter then Bourton on the Water (about 6 miles), then catch the 801 bus back to Stowe. Option 2: start at Chipping Campden and take the Cotswold Way southwest among copses, crossing the Gloucestershire-Worcestershire border under the turrets of Broadway Tower (which commands a stirring vista) before continuing along the Way to the village of Broadway (about 5 miles). From here, circle back to Chipping Campden on footpaths that run parallel to the north, or else board the 608 bus. Option 3: Forego walking and take a horseback ride from Stanton from the Vine B and B (which was a highlight when we were there).

Even if you take a walk be sure and visit the villages you did not amble to by car including Chipping Camden, Stanton, Stow on the Wold, Bourton on the Water and Lower Slaughter. Consider making time for a memorable lunch at one of the restaurants we recommend. See Stanway house if you happen to be there on one of the rare open days.

It is only a 19 minute drive from the Cotswolds to nearby Stratford on Avon, home to all things Shakespeare, but also a great place to catch a play at the excellent Royal Shakespeare theater. Reserve your tickets in advance and grab dinner at The Woodsman or Salt. Consider before or after play drinks at the Dirty Duck before heading back to your Cotswold village lodging.

Day 14 – Warwick Castle to Chester

Today you’ll head north. Leaving the delightful Cotswolds behind, drive about 30 minutes to Warwick Castle. Warwick is a medieval castle from the 14th century with 18th century royal apartments and grounds. It’s a bit of a medieval theme park, but the exhibits (jousting, longbow demonstrations, falconry, trebuchet, etc.) make it worthwhile (pick up the daily events flyer when you get your ticket). It’s an especially good castle for kids. Warwick is a convenient place for lunch – either within the castle or in the nearby village.

From here it is a not particularly interesting 2 hour drive to delightful Chester – your home for the next two nights. Chester was a Roman city and it is also very close to Wales. It has relatively intact city walls, and the Rows which are unique half timbered two-tier shopping galleries first built in the Middle Ages when Chester was a thriving sea-faring port. There are daily walking tours at 10:30 and usually at 2. There are several options for an afternoon pint and bite at Telfords Warehouse or The Brewery Tap. Stay at Chester Grosvenor, Oddfellows, Hotel Chester, or Hotel Indigo.

Day 15 – North Wales – Conwy, Bodnant Garden, Caernarfon

So we said this was an England trip – and it is (mostly). But today you’ll be leaving England and visiting Wales. Wales has been a part of Great Britain since being conquered by Edward I in the 1200’s, but it has never been part of England. The Welsh are also the reason that the most impressive castles in Britain are in Wales (Edward needed them to control the troublesome Welsh).

Start your day by driving about an hour to Conwy. Conwy was a garrison town built by the English in 1280. It has the best medieval walls in Britain and an awesome castle which you can explore. It’s also a delightful town to wander with a nice harbor and Plas Mawr, a 16th century house that gives you a good look at life in the Elizabethan age.

Conwy

From Conwy take a short drive to Bondant Gardens, one of Britain’s best gardens, famous for its spectacular yellow laburnum arch (blooms May to June) as well as roses, camelias, and rhododendrons.

From here head Caernarfon to the most impressive castle of all, Caernarfon Castle, and take an hourly guided tour. The castle was never actually finished but it is still impressive and fun to explore. From here drive back to Chester. if you have time you could also take the short detour to view nearby lovely Beaumaris castle (adds a total of about a half hour to the trip back to Chester). If you have more time, you could spend the night in Conwy and spend a day exploring Snowdon National Park.

Caernarfon Castle

Day 16 – Chester to Keswick

Today you will drive two and a half hours to the charming Lake District. For a more scenic route get off the M6 and take the A6/A 591 through Windemere and Ambleside. The lakeside town of Keswick makes a good home base. Grab lunch at the Dog and Gun pub or Fellpack.

For the afternoon, consider a walk if you have time (otherwise plan it for tomorrow). You’ll notice this is a big walking area from all the outdoor gear shops in town. Great walk choices include the classic Catbell’s Ridge Hike or much easier Buttermere lake walk (in the next valley over).

View from Catbell Ridge hike

For dinner consider the (very dog friendly) Dog and Gun, Fellpack, Derwent Walker or a short drive to The Cottage in the Wood. Consider heading out after dinner to Oddfellow Arms (live music), Trivia night at Dog and Gun (Thursday starting at 9:30PM), or Theater by the Lake.

For lodging look at Hazeldene Hotel, Apple trees B and B, or Burleigh Mead. The next valley over has lodging in Ullswater at Another place – very nice but less convenient to town activities.

Day 17- Lake District

Today is a great day to head to Ullswater and visit the Aria force waterfall. From here continue onto the Aira Force Waterfall and Gowbarrow Trail. Ullswater also has a nice boat excursion after your walk.

If you don’t mind climbing back in the car and still have time there’s a lovely drive you can take. Start by heading south of Keswick through Borrowdale, stop for a slate mine tour at Honister pass, continue onto Buttermere (with its lake hike), and head back through the Newlands Valley to Keswick. If you skip this, simply head back to Keswick for a well earned pint.

For a great sunset excursion make the short drive to see the Castlerigg Stone Circle. These stones have been here for 5000 years – far longer than Stonhenge or Avebury and are sort of by themselves in a field – you may well have the whole place to yourself.

Castlerigg Stone Circle

After dinner back in Keswick, if you haven’t before, consider a show at the Theater by the Lake.

Day 18 – Hadrian’s wall, Durham, to York

As you head out of Keswick today we will head to Housesteads Roman Fort. This Roman fort was situated on the furthest edge of the Roman Empire. There’s a small museum here about the fort, and from the fort you can actually walk along Hadrian’s Wall. For more Roman sites you can also visit nearby Vindolanda fort and museum and/or the Roman Army Museum.

From Hadrian’s wall drive to Durham for lunch and to see the impressive Durham and Cathedral. Durham is a 1000-year-old fortified town sitting high above the river Wear and has a nice medieval atmosphere. The cathedral is Norman (Romanesque) and predates all those gothic churches you’ve been visiting by a couple of hundred years (built in 1093 – 1133). After touring the town and cathedral get back in the car and drive south an hour and a half to York.

For dinner, check out our York Restaurant recommendations.

York is a great pub town that loves its beer – check out the York Pub Scene this evening, tomorrow, or both.

For lodging, look at Gray’s Court, The Principal, The Grand, St Raphael’s Guesthouse, Bronte Guesthouse, Abbey Guesthouse, or Number 34.

Day 19 – York

Delightful York was England’s second city in the Medieval Age and has a history dating back to the Roman Age. It was a Christian learning center before becoming a Viking trading center. The Medieval center (the Shambles) is remarkably well preserved.

Begin your day with a York Walking tour for orientation, From here, head to the very impressive York Minster, an enormous gothic church with some great decorations and stained glass. Next, visit the Yorkshire Museum featuring archeological artifacts from York’s long past.

Whether you choose to visit the gimmicky Yorik Viking Center is up to you. This is a very popular sight and is as much of a ride as a museum. There are a few actual viking artifacts on display. It’s mostly about the 12 minute ride through a recreated viking street complete with animatronic characters. Consider it if you have kids

Much more interesting is the York Castle Museum. Concerned that historic sites in Yorkshire were disappearing, a Yorkshire doctor started collecting artifacts in the early 1900’s which then led to this interesting museum. You’ll visit period rooms from the 1600’s to the 1950’s, recreated Victorian streets and even a dayglow 1960’s street. It’s a bit quirky and definitely fun.

After dinner there are a variety of ghost walks for your evening entertainment. You can choose between comedy and tragedy (well at least scary stories).

Day 20 – York to Heathrow

There’s a lot to see in York and if you did not see everything, today is a catch up day before you drive about 4 hours back to stay at one of the airport hotels near Heathrow. Today you can also visit the National Railway Museum, one of the best anywhere. Since you’ll be in the car for a bit today, another great option in the morning is a walk (or bike) along the Ouse River.

Return your rental car at the airport and prepare to fly home.

Day 21 – Fly Home

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