France to Spain – Dordogne to Catalonia

France | Spain

France to Spain – Dordogne to Catalonia

Welcome to the France and Spain! This trip will wind you from the castle speckled villages of medieval France to the North East coast of Spain and bustling Barcelona. Enjoy the food, drinks, history and people on this relaxed 2-week trip. If you travel from Saturday to Sunday it gives you the full 15 days to enjoy this region. If you need to return earlier, consider eliminating the last day in Sitges.

Length: 14 days

Transport: This is a car based trip –  try holidayautos.com for a good deal.

Recommended Guide book: Rick Steves France

DAY 1 – ALBI

DAY 2 – ALBI

DAY 3 –Route de Bastides

Day 4 – Sarlat and Lascaux Caves

DAY 5 – Canoeing the Dordogne

  • Pick up canoe in Vitrac (10 min drive)
  • 9 mile paddle to Beynac (La Roque –> Castelnaud –> Chateau de Fayrac –> Beynac)
  • Stop in La Roque for lunch
  • Shuttle back to Vitrac
  • Drive to Beynac and explore castle
  • Stop and dinner in Domme at Cabanoix et Chataigne
  • Lodging — same place (night 3/4) 

Day 6 – Rocamadour

  • Drive to Martel and explore
  • Drive to Carennac and explore
  • Drive to Rocmadour
  • Explore Rocmadour 
    • Park at the top (Chateau parking lot) and walk down to La Cite Medievale
    • Sanctuary of Our Lady of Rocamadour
    • La Cite Medievale
  • Get a view of Rocamdour and a drink at Resto bistrot l’Estanquet in L’Hospitalet
  • Drive back to Sarlat (52 min drive)
  • Dinner at Auberge de Mirandol
  • Lodging — same place (night 4/4) 

Day 7 – Carcassonne

Day 8 – Carcassonne to Collioure

Day 9 – Collioure

Day 10 – Dali, A Day of Surrealism (Figueres and Cadeques)

Day 11 – Montserrat

Day 12 – Barcelona

Day 13 – Barcelona

Day 14 – Sitges

Day 15 – Fly Home

  • Fly Home

In Depth Itinerary 

DAY 1-2 – ALBI

Bonjour! You’ve made it to France. Aim to arrive midday or in the evening. If you arrive in the morning you can consider reducing your trip by 1 day and only staying 1 night in Albi (do itinerary day 2 your first day). From the airport grab your rental car and head to Albi along nice roads and beautiful countryside (53 min drive). 

Check into your lodging, we recommend Parc Avril. Attempt to stay directly across the river from the Old Town (an easy 10 minute walk) or in the Old Town itself. If it’s early enough in the day you can consider walking across the bridge and taking a quick wander of the Old Town or walking the forested path that leaves from below the bridge. You could also grab a glass of wine in the Old Town at O Vent D’Anges on market hall square, and sit on the plaza enjoying the people. Of note, Albi basically closes down on Sunday and Mondays and many of the restaurants and bars are also closed.

Since you’re most likely exhausted from jet lag, head to an early dinner. One of the only options for a Sunday night (if this is the day you arrive) is L’Aliby which offered good food located right across the river from the Old Town. La Table du Sommelier is considered one of the best restaurants in Albi and is especially known for its wine – maybe something you’d enjoy after a day of traveling. After dinner call it a night and head to bed.

The next day is your day to explore the town. Albi is a beautiful red-brick town situated on the River Tarn. It’s much less touristed than most of France but offers a splendid pedestrian-only Old Town complete with half-timbered buildings, famous cathedral, and great restaurants in a town with a low-key feel.

Grab a coffee in town or breakfast at the Art Nouveau Covered Market.

Make your way to the Place Ste. Cecile and enter the cathedral. Make sure you go to the TI first (opens at 9:30) and purchase a combo-ticket to the Toulouse-Lautrec Museum and cathedral and grab a map.  Enjoy this truly remarkable cathedral, take your time with the audio tour, and absorb all the beautiful frescos.

You’re right next to the Toulouse-Lautrec Museum so head in. Inside you’ll see the biggest collection of Toulouse-Lautrec’s works (he was born in Albi). Make sure to wander the gardens which gives amazing views of the river and opposite bank.

After the museum grab lunch at nearby Les Jardins de L’Archeveche which offered a great menu in an incredibly convenient location.

After lunch wander over to Les Chocolats Yves Thuries, allegedly some of the best artisan made chocolate in all of France, for a sweet treat on the way to Saint Salvi Church and Cloister where you can pop in and enjoy a quiet retreat and pretty garden.

You have a few options for the afternoon. We recommend a 30 minute boat cruise along the Tarn in an old fashioned flat-bottomed wooden boat called a gabarre. You can opt to wander through the delightful Old Town. Grab a map at the TI that will lead you to important sites and pretty places in the town and follow the map. Once you’re done, head down the Rue Ste. Cecile and make your way to the Jardin National and Carrousel du Vigan (an old fashioned carousel). This park more or less marks the end of the Old Town and is a delightful place to wander or sit at a cafe. You can also opt for a hike along the riverbank. A trail winds its way along the river and if you head northeast along the river you’ll run into a lovely wooded path which you can explore as far as you want (get more info at the TI). Albi itself offers access to 140 km of paths and trails that you can explore.

When you’re ready, head for dinner on the terrace at Le Clos Sainte Cécile.

Stay in the same lodging as the previous night (night 2/2).

Old Town Albi

DAY 3 – ROUTE OF BASTIDES

Today you’re making your way up to Sarlat and on the way you’ll hit the Route of the Bastides (it doesn’t add time, just adds a lot of interest). The Bastide towns are a group of lovely small medieval towns built as combo market towns/protective fortresses. Because of the layout they all host nice big squares where cafes and shops spill onto today. The English and French built this group of towns during the Hundred Years’ War for defense. Most are located on hilltops and offer dramatic views driving in. You’ll visit Cordes-sur-Ciel, Bruniquel, and Puycelsi as you meander your way to Sarlat.

Begin by bidding adieu to Albi and heading to Cordes-sur-Ciel ((33min drive). This is one of the biggest, beautiful, most touristy, and most dramatic of the hill towns. It’s perched high on a hilltop over a spectacular valley below. Follow signs for parking and then climb up the cobbled pathways past old stone and timbered buildings leaning into each other and the street. As you climb you’ll pass streets of galleries, cafes, artisan shops. The market square itself is on top of the hill and you’ll pass through medieval arches to get there. Many of the homes are from the 13th and 14th century. If it’s market day enjoy perusing the market. Wander to the rampart and take in the views or grab a coffee at one of the restaurants on the market square with a view. If you really love sugar and chocolate, you can stop by the Museum of the Art of Sugar and Chocolate and pop by the 14th century St-Michel church before you continue on. Contrary to some reviews, Cordes-sur-Ciel was our favorite of the Bastides towns; it’s beautiful, charming, and gives amazing views. If you have to pick one to see, this is it.

Next, make your way to Puycelsi (35 min drive). This is another beautiful town that sits high on a bluff with views of pastures and forests. You can park right at the top. Wander through the town, in the summer bright with flowers. There are picnic tables near the rampart walk, however it’s a great place to eat at a restaurant as well. While the Jardin de Lys offers local and traditional fare with a view for enjoying a full lunch, Puycelsi Roc Cafe is perfect for a quick stop with an equally beautiful setting.

Next venture onto Bruniquel (14 min drive). Climb upwards towards Chateaux de Bruniquel. This castle, perched on a rocky outcrop overlooking the valleys of Aveyron and Vère, offers a view and a 12th century experience.

Drive to Sarlat (1h47m drive), where you’ll be staying.

Consider treating yourself tonight at dinner. Le Grand Bleu is a 1 starred Michelin restaurant (some of the best restaurants are hidden in small towns) and certainly doesn’t dissapoint. It’s well worth the splurge with this surprisingly unpretentious kitchen to enjoy a superb meal of all the region has to offer.

For lodging, consider Plaza Madeline or La Villa des Consules. If you have a big group you can consider La Maison Bleue – Gîte de Charme which is a lovely old farmhouse but about 10 minutes driving from Sarlat. If you can it’s best to stay right in the Sarlat Old Town so you can walk everywhere and enjoy the beautiful lit streets at night.

Bruniquel, Bastide Hill Town
Cordes-sur-Ciel, Bastide Hill Town

Day 4 – Sarlat and Lascaux Caves

Today is your first day in Sarlat and your day to explore the International Center for Cave Art at Lascaux.

Sarlat, otherwise known as Sarlat-la-Caneda is a beautiful old town, set near the Dordogne river. It offers a pedestrian only center, medieval buildings spilling over sunlit squares, a shocking amount of foie gras shops, and delightful markets, restaurants, and people-watching options. It’s a romantic town, especially when it’s floodlit at night. It can get overrun in the summer, but is unbelievably charming nonetheless.

Start with the Wednesday or Saturday market, providing today is one of those days. If it’s not, re-arrange your schedule to accommodate the market which starts around 9am. It’s a can’t miss and your chance to pick up duck everything (pommes de terre sarladaises (potatoes in duck fat), foie gras, smoked duck, confit de carnard), truffles, regional cheese, and vin de noix (walnut liqueur).

Grab a walking tour of Sarlat where you can enjoy wandering the crooked streets and learn about the history of the town. Rick Steves also offers a great self-guided walking tour in his France book you can follow if you prefer.

After your tour, end at the Place de la Liberte square, and, especially on market day, enjoy the hubbub of the city. Le Jimmy’s is a fun spot to do just that over a cafe. If you want a quicker bite, stop by Maison Massoulier on the Rue de la Republique which offers great pasteries.

After grabbing a coffee, get in your car and drive to International Center for Cave Art at Lascaux (13 min drive). The Vezere valley, where you now are, is known as the cradle of mankind, and where Homo sapiens (ie Cro-Magnon people) were first discovered. This is your chance to see the famous cave art.

Now the International Center for Cave Art at Lascaux, ie Lascaux IV is an exact replica of the most famous cave paintings, the original Lascaux. You can’t go into the original one anymore because too many tourists right when it was discovered poured in and that combined with very little understanding of cave preservation put the paintings at risk. This center is an exact replica down to the minute level and gives you a pretty full appreciation of the art. Can you see the real thing? Sure. And actually we’ll take you to real cave paintings later in this itinerary (Grotte du Pech Merle). But this is a replica of the multicolored paintings, and the last prehistoric multicolored paintings you can visit, Grotte de Font-de-Gaume does not take reservations, requires you to wait in line staring at 6-6:30 am with no assurance of getting in. If you care that much, check out this information. Given most cave paintings look somewhat similar and you can easily get into Grotte du Pech Merle, we didn’t feel this was worth it. The place everyone visits now for cave paintings is the International Center for Cave Art at Lascaux, despite it being a replica.

Have a picnic outside of the center and then proceed inside for your timed tour. After you get your fill of cave paintings, drive back to Sarlat (13 min drive).

Grab a late afternoon/early evening drink back on the plaza (Le Jimmy’s or Le Regent) or head to a cozy place for cocktails at La Lune Poivre.

Either make dinner out of items you picked up at the market this morning, or try Le Bistro de l’Octroi.

Stay in the same lodging as the previous night (night 2/4).

Sarlat Market Day
International Center for Cave Art at Lascaux, cave painting reproduction

DAY 5 – Canoeing the Dordogne

The best way to enjoy  Dordogne, and more specifically the Dordogne River, is by canoe. Though for an easier, less active ride you can consider the wooden gabare boats as well (leaves from La Roque-Gageac).

There are many canoe rentals along the river, but we like picking ours up near Vitrac (from the roundabout cross the river and turn left, you can’t miss the bright yellow canoes, 10 min drive from Sarlat) at Perigord-Aventure et Loisirs. A fun afternoon is a 9 mile paddle (2-3 hours) past La Roque-Gageac, Castlenaud, Chateau de Fayrac, and Beynac, all featured heavily in the 100 Years War.

The villages are picturesque, and we found a great stop to be in La Roque-Gageac where you can pull out for lunch, a snack, or gelato. A few quaint restaurants scatter the river, including L’Auberge des Platanes where we enjoyed our break. You can literally pull your canoe up to the bottom of the village and dock. After a drink or bite, wander the town, which is supposedly one of the cutest towns in France. You can see  stone work high up in the cliffs that is from inhabitants of the 10th – 12th centuries. The town survived during the Hundred Years’ War.

After La Roque-Gageac, you’ll pass by the impressive castles of Chateau de Castlenaud and Beynac (the lesser Chateau de Fayrac is in between) which stared down each other and fought during the Hundred Years’ War. You can visit either, but we recommend coming back later in the afternoon via car to do so.

It’s obvious where to dock your boat at the end – signs and a bridge mark your stopping point. Take the bus shuttle back to Vitrac (included with your canoe rental). You might be wet. Either change into a new set of clothes at the canoe rental shop, or head back to your lodging for lunch and a break.

In the afternoon head back to one of the castles from earlier, Beynac (17 min drive from Sarlat) or Castelnaud (18 min drive from Sarlat). We preferred Beynac, but both are nice and with time and a love of castles, you can do both.

Start with Beynac which was the hold of the French during the 100 Years’ War and is remarkably intact. The fairly sparse rooms still envoke a feeling of being a medieval knight and the views are really incredible. Once you finish the castle, wander down into the town for some views of an idyllic river-side French village.

With more time, head to Castlenaud which was the hold of the English during the 100 Years’ War. It’s pretty similar to Beynac, offering more beautiful views, but is slightly more built up and touristy.

For dinner, wander sarlat until you find a restaurant that looks good, or head to the town of Domme with its stunning views and 13th century ramparts. It’s a town set in the cliff tops and is sleepier than Sarlat. The main street is lined with touristy shops but it offers very pretty winding lanes of a quiet french village. Cabanoix et Chataigne is the place to eat here, which offers a pretty courtyard.

Stay in the same lodging as the previous night (night 3/4).

Canoeing the Dordogne
Beynac castle from the river
 

Day 6 – Rocamadour

Today you will head to Rocamadour which in its hey day in the 14th century saw as many as 30,000 pilgrims a day visit this religious site. It’s one of those places you won’t easily forget – perched on a rocky cliff, its steeples and Chateau dramatically stand out from across the valley making it visually spectacular.

Begin your visit by parking at Chateau parking, and enjoy a leisurely walk down the paved Way of the Cross following signs pointing to Sanctuaires. Once you make it to the cathedral, you’ll enjoy a church built onto the cliff ledge with 7 chapels surrounding the adjacent square. You can see the black virgin in the Chapel of Our Lady, the tomb of St. Amadour (1166) and the Sword of Roland (Charlemagne’s nephew) stuck in the cliffside.

Once you finish, you can continue down the hill to the lower town, or La Cite Medievale. The town is a long rambling street below the sanctuary that’s been operational since the 1100s. Most shops are touristy, but there is some really remarkable art to see as well. It’s especially fun to see the gallery Art et tentation as well as Veronique Guinard and Richard Begnyn’s wonderful paintings, both modern and of the Lot Valley (the prints make great, inexpensive souvenirs/gifts).

Either take the paid elevator or walk back up to your car.

Head to the small adjacent town L’Hospitalet for both a view and a break. This is where you’ll get your money shot of the Rocamadour complex with unobscured views (there’s many areas to grab the picture). Grab a drink at Resto bistrot l’Estanquet, a fun place offering coffee, drinks, and gelato.

Head back to Sarlat (52 min drive).

Grab dinner at one of the many restaurants in downtown Sarlat. Auberge de Mirandol is a fun and cozy option or Le Bistro de l’Octroi is another nice choice for local cuisine.

Stay in the same lodging as the previous night (night 4/4).

DAY 7 –Carcassonne

Alright, so today you have to get up early to squeeze everything in. Begin by driving to the Pech Merle Caves (1h15min drive) which offers a chance to see real cave paintings dating from 29,000 years ago. There are some other caves in the area offering real cave paintings (Grottes de Cougnac, Grotte de Rouffignac), however, this one happens to be on the way. It’s worth seeing the real thing and getting a chance to marvel at how people were painting such intricate scenes so many years ago. Get reservations for the earliest tour possible (9:30 or 9:45). Arrive 30 minutes before your tour starts and enjoy an hour tour of the cave system. We skipped the adjacent museum, but if you want to see it go before the tour, you won’t really have time after.

Once the tour is over head to Carcassonne (2h30min drive). Carcassonne looks like it is straight out of a fairy tale with an incredibly preserved medieval town, complete with turrets, defense wall, castle, and cobbled streets. It’s even said to the inspiration behind the palace in Disney’s Sleeping Beauty. Because of its beauty, it becomes overrun with tourists. Carcassonne felt like the most overly-touristed somewhat kitschy place we went on this entire trip. For that reason we recommend you only need the equivalent of a full day and 1 night in the town. It’s a must-see absolutely cannot-miss site, however prices are high and due to the number of people, the city loses some of its charm. Pack your time with historical sites, walk the rampart walls, and just accept the tourists for your time there, knowing you will leave them behind soon.

Upon arrival head straight to the TI for its great daily walking tour in English of Carcassonne. If you opt for a private walking tour of Carcassonne, you can take your time after the Peche Merle caves and drive through Cahors on the way. In Cahors you can see the Pont Valentre, a massive fortified bridge built in 1308. However, if you’re trying to make the TI walking tour at 13:30 or 14:00 you can skip this site. Enjoy the walking tour as it winds you through town, giving you an overview of the history and legends of the town.

If you haven’t had lunch yet, consider a seat at Le Trouvère which serves up great soup, sandwiches, and cassoulet at charming red and white tables offering the best people watching spot on Place Marcou.

In the afternoon wander down to the Pont Vieux, a 14th century bridge the crosses the Aude River and is made up of 12 arches. It connects the Old City with e Ville Basse where the majority of Carcassonne resides today. The bridge is pedestrian only and offers great views of the city. You can extend your walk along the river if you want, hop on a canal cruise, or rent a bike to cruise along the canal.

For a fancy before-dinner drink, consider popping into the Hotel de la Cite, Carcassonne’s beautiful vine-covered 5 star hotel. They have a fun bar, Bar Bibliothèque, decorated like a library that offers up a spritz made of Carcassonne’s own vermouth.

For a splurge dinner you can consider it’s adjacent restaurant, La Barbacane which is Michelin starred. If you skipped a sit down lunch and the weather is nice, head to Le Trouvère and snag an outdoor table on the square, taking in all the activity within the walls. If you’re tired of the bustle, head to Auberge des Lices which is down a quiet lane and also offers a courtyard. Another great option is Comte Roger which offers fine cuisine on a patio overflowing with vines.

For lodging, La Rapiere offered decent fair-priced simple rooms just steps away from the ramparts of the old town. Pont Levis Hotel offered a more stylish room. If you really want to stay in the walls, the Best Western Hotel le Donjon is in a great location, and some rooms offer terraces on the garden. The only downside to this option is it’s an additional charge for parking.

Once the sun goes down, the castle lights up and Carcassonne becomes truly magical. Walk around the walls and head to down again to the Pont Vieux for an amazing view of the town lit up at night.

Carcassonne

Day 8 – Carcassonne to Collioure

Enjoy your morning in Carcassonne by starting with a self-guided audio tour of the beautifully restored 12th century Chateau Comtal. As the tour winds you through towers and rooms, imagine what living in the castle at its heyday must have felt like. The walls of the castle itself offer great views over the rest of the town, but for the best activity in all of Carcassonne, continue from the castle out onto the Ramparts. Your ticket for the Chateau includes both. The ramparts aren’t continuous so you have 2 options: 1) do half the ramparts, 2) do half and then return to the chateau to start the other half. If you only choose to do part, head to the west rampart where you’ll exit near the St. Navaire Tower. The views are stunning so have your camera ready.

Once you finish with the ramparts, grab a quick lunch in town or with a picnic head to the Abbaye de Fontfroide (51min drive). The Abbey also offers a lovely restaurant if you want to opt for that instead.

This Abbey is incredibly well preserved and beautiful, sitting along lush vineyards near the coast near Narbonne. Created in 1093, the excellent tablet/audio guide walks you through what was once one of the richest Cistercian monasteries in the Christian world. Allow plenty of time for this stop, you can skip around on the guide if you get overwhelmed. Currently it’s privately owned by a family who keeps it in pristine condition – in the summer there are concert series in the evening so can stay and catch one if you want. Don’t miss the gardens at the end of the tour.

Once you’re done go to the Abbey’s tasting room. The Abbey is in the heart of the Corbières wine country and has operated as a winery for centuries. Originally made by the monks residing in the Abbey, the family continues to use the same grapes. 

Now it’s time to head to your final destination for the day: Collioure (1h15min drive). Collioure is a beautiful Mediterranean seaside town with lovely pebbly beaches, colorful shops and residences, the remnants of a castle, and a mountaintop fort. It has an interesting history being just 15 miles from the Spanish border, and you’ll feel a blend of French and Spanish attitude, language, and Catalan culture.

As it will be late afternoon/early evening when you arrive, check into your lodging. We didn’t love where we stayed (it was a bit of a walk into town), so if we did it again we’d consider Hotel les Templiers or Le Mas des Citronniers. Or for a splurge you could opt for Hotel Casa Pairal. Regardless of what you choose, try and stay in the old city and near the beach. Collioure is built on a hill and if you stay too far from the city center you’ll spend your time getting a lot of strenuous exercise (which is the mistake we made).

Enjoy a sunset walk along the jetty or head straight for outdoor dining at La Voile, where you can take in the setting sun over a glass of local wine and excellent seafood.

Abbaye de Fontfroide

Day 9 – Collioure

You have all day today to explore the port town settled on the edge of the Pyrenees which has been an inspiration to artists throughout time including Matisse, Braque, Chagall, and Picasso. It’s a magical Mediterranean seaside town and you’ll feel sad to leave so make the most of your relaxing day.

Begin in the old town, grabbing a pastry and coffee in one of the many shops. Pop into art shops and galleries and get lost in the rambling town. When you’ve had enough of shops head towards Chateau Royal, the remains of an 800 year old castle. If you want to wander the ruins or get higher views pay the small entrance fee and head in.

From the Chateau Royal you can make your way to the waterfront church of Notre-Dame des Anges. The church is built into the sea and has a combo lighthouse/bell tower that served as a guide light for ships in its day. From the church walk out onto the jetty, breath in the sea, and enjoy the spot that has served as an important post on the Mediterranean and at the foot of the Pyrenees for over 2500 years. From the jetty you can see Fort St. Elme, the tower of Madeloc, and Fort Mirador (from left to right) as well as mountains and vineyards.

From the jetty wander back towards the chateau along Boulevard Boramar where you’ll see 7 copies of Derain and Matissee paintings along the sidewalk walls, making up the “Path of Fauvism”. If you want to see an original Picasso you can head to the Hotel les Templiers (or maybe you took our recommendation and are staying there) which for years accepted paintings as payment for board. They have 2000 paintings including those by Picasso, Dufy, and Survage near the bar.

If it’s time for a gelato (when isn’t it??) you’re on the right street. Many shops offer excellent gelato along the Boulevard du Boramar and enjoy one as you continue your walk beyond the Chateau.

If it’s hot and time for the beach, head to Plage de Port d’Avall beach and enjoy the water. Another good beach option for a swim is the Plage St. Vincent. Both of these have more sand than others nearby. You can opt to rent a chaise lounge as well as kayaks or paddleboats.

One of the best things to do in Collioure if you’re up for an adventure is hike into the hills. A lovely hike heads from Collioure’s modern art museum (near Port D’Avall) and first up some stone steps following signs to le moulin, a stone windmill built in 1344 that today is used to grind olive oil. Continue past the windmill to Fort St. Elme which is about 30 minutes further up. You’ll pass lush vegetation along a path the leads you on switchbacks up the hill. The views from the top are truly stunning. If you want you can pop into Fort St. Elme, which has an exhibit of medieval amour, however the real reason for the hike are the views.

If hiking isn’t your thing, a tourist train leaves from the main square in the old town and winds you up to the fort where you can get off and take in the views/see the fort until the next train comes to take you back down. It comes with narration in English.

Once you make it down to sea level head to the adjacent Cellier Dominicain which offers fantastic free wine tasting of local Collioure varietals, including the dessert Banyuls.

Enjoy more pre-dinner strolling, shopping, or head for a pre dinner drink or espresso at any of the establishments peppering the sea promenade or at Chez Paco, a popular local Spanish pub set into the old town.

For dinner consider Casa Leon a more casual option set in the old town with incredible seafood options, or splurge for the views that come with the La Neptune‘s fine dining experience.

Stay in the same lodging as the previous night (night 2/2).

Collioure as seen from above
Collioure’s seafront
 

Day 10 – Dali, A Day of Surrealism (Figueres and Cadeques)

We hope you like the famous Spanish surrealist Salvador Dali, because today he is your main attraction. Welcome to Spain! Start by leaving Collioure and cross the boarder to Figueres (55 min drive).

The main reason you’re heading here is for the Dali Theatre-Museum (Teatre-Museu Dali). Make sure you get tickets online ahead of time (this place is incredibly crowded). They’re time stamped so plan accordingly. This is a weird museum, but also amazing. The whole experience screams Dali (who designed it and filled it with his artwork). Bring some change if you want to play around with a few of the coin operated movable art. Give yourself time for this museum because it’s huge, and don’t forget to pop into the adjacent room (separate outside entrance) of Dali’s Jewels, which is a collection of the equally strange jewelry he designed.

The Dali Theatre Museum

Grab lunch in Figueres before you head to Cadeques. Consider trying Restaurant Duran, where Dali used to hang out, or try a very casual place near the Theatre Museum, Txot’s Sidreria.

Salvador Dali

After lunch, head to Cadeques (1h30m drive). Make your way straight to the Dali House. Here is a slightly less eccentric view into Dali’s life as you take in where he and his wife actually lived until 1982. Never fear, it’s still plenty strange. You must make reservations ahead of time. Tour groups of 8-10 people are guided through the house. A giant stuffed bear greets you as you enter the foyer and you’ll get to see his bedroom, studio, living room, etc. After the tour you get to go outside and wander the grounds including his giant pool (where he used to host orgiastic fetes), olive groves, and sculptures. Nestled on the sea, the surroundings themselves are delightful.

Once you’ve had enough Dali, head to Cadeques, a quaint Spanish beach and fishing town (a quick drive or 20 minute walk). Since the 1800s artists have flocked to this area including Matisse, Duchamp, Picasso, and of course, Dali. The town feels sleepy, even in the summer. Wandering the streets you’ll be surrounded by white-washed buildings set against the turquoise sea. Wander the shops, and stop by the Maritim Bar (another Dali haunt) for pre-dinner tapas and a vino tinto on the sea.

Cadeques

Check into your lodging. We strongly recommend Sa Perafita- Celler Martin Faixo which is nestled in a nature reserve 10 minutes up the hill from Cadaques. It’s a beautiful 14th century building now offering a selection of extremely comfortable modern rooms. Enjoy a bottle of wine while gazing at the surrounding countryside, vineyards, and sea.

Martin Faixo Winery

For dinner head to Casa Anita for an unbeatable and amazing dining experience. If that’s full you can also try its sister restaurant, Con Rafa. Of note, if it looks like everything in Cadaques is owned by the Martin Faixo family, it’s because is it. When the wine industry was hit by phylloxera the family turned to restaurants and bars in the town of Cadaques. While the family has now brought back the winery, it continues in the restaurant vein as well.

Day 11 – Montserrat

After breakfast, enjoy a wine tasting at Celler Martin Faixo. While this is especially easy if you’re staying on site at the winery (and included), it’s worth the stop out of town. Enjoy tasting a variety of Spanish wines made organically and with unique practice.

Drive to Montserrat (2h39 min drive) high in the hills outside of Barcelona. Montserrat has been the most famous pilgrimage site in Catalunya for over a millennium and still offers a monastery peached high in the tall peaks of a natural park. The landscape itself is rugged, dramatic, and beautiful and the only way to reach the monastery/park is to park your car and take a cable car or funicular up from Montserrat-Aeri station or Monistrol de Montserrat Station respectively. Once you reach the top everything is close by.

Montserrat

Begin by exploring the Monastery itself – though of note, it’s very ornate and modern and feels a little out of place in the history and scenery. The Basilica that looms over everything else was built in the 1950s and the facade is from 1968 (however there has been a church on the spot since the 11th century). The main focus of the basilica is the Black Virgin (La Moreneta), a wooden statue discovered in the Sacred Cave part way up the mountain in the 12th century allegedly carved by St. Luke.  Join the line of tourists and pilgrims alike and get ushered down an ornate hallway along the side of the church to the main alter where you can admire the piece up close and touch her orb. Duck into other chapels surrounding the main church and end by walking the Ave Maria Path which holds hundreds of colorful votive candles.

Once you finish the basilica you can opt to visit the museum of Montserrat if your really like art – it has a collection of paintings and artifacts donated by Catalan Catholics and includes some lesser works by Picasso, Monet, Renoir, Pissarro, Degas, Caravaggio, etc.

If you want to skip the museum, head straight for the Sant Joan Funicular and enjoy a hike through the dramatic landscape. The funicular heads up above the monastery (a 5 minute ride) and from the top you can take a 20 minute walk to Sant Joan Chapel and the nearby hermitage remnants or a 45 minute loop back to the monastery. If want an intense hike you can opt to instead walk down from the monastery to the Sacred Cave where the Moreneta was originally discovered (and then back up–approx 45 min each way).

Once you’re finished with the hike, you can choose to stick around for Montserrat’s Escolania (Choir School) concert, the oldest boy’s choir in the world. It performs every day but Saturday and the concert lasts 10 minutes. Concerts are at 13:00 and 18:45 – and be careful you don’t miss the last train/cable car down the mountain.

Continue onto Barcelona (56 min drive).

Check into your lodging. We strongly recommend Central Suites Barcelona which was a lovely apartment in an unparalleled location to walk to virtually all tourist sites you’ll want to see. If you choose to stay elsewhere, try and stay in the Eixample neighborhood. It’s less touristy than staying in the Old City/Barri Gotic or off Las Ramblas meaning food quality is better and cheaper and you get a break from the swarm that descends on Barcelona in the peak tourist months.

It will probably be near dinner time so after you check into lodging head over to  Tapas 24 or Vinitus for a solid tapas option. Of note, we loved tapas in Spain. We’re going to mostly recommend tapas bars for 2 reasons: 1) you can eat before 9pm and not get weird looks from locals and 2) Barcelona is an expensive city for food and tapas are cheaper. They also give you local and fresh ingredients while letting you try a bunch of different things. However, there are world-famous restaurants in Barcelona and here is a delightful list.

Day 12 – Barcelona

Wake up and grab breakfast from the nearby bakery (or nearby if you’re staying in our recommended place or in the Eixample neighborhood off Rambla de Catalunya) Forn de Sant Jaume. It’s a bakery serving incredible chocolate croissants, along with other tempting breakfast goodies.

Arrange for a 1/2 day Barcelona walking tour. While it’s possible to explore the main sites (Barri Gotic, Sagrada Familia, Ramblas) having done it twice, once with a guide and once with out, it was infinitely better with one. We went with pepitotours.com which ended up being fantastic, but there are also tours offered through the tourist office. Let your guide take you from your hotel to the Placa Catalunya, along the Ramblas cutting through side streets and pointing out some great local restaurants, coffee shops, bars, and artisan goods, to the Barcelona Cathedral. From there you can enjoy an in depth overview of the Old Gothic Quarter, seeing thousands of years of history from Roman ruins, pagan sites, Christian churches, modern art, markets, and more. From the Gothic Quarter you can proceed with your guide to the incredible Sagrada Familia and enjoy a thorough tour of Gaudi’s most impressive work. If you can’t arrange a tour of the church, we recommend the audio guide you can purchase with your entrance tickets. If you are not on a tour providing you tickets of the church, make sure you get them in advance online – it sells out even in the off season. On your way back towards your hotel, pass by Casa Battlo (the more impressive exterior) and Casa Mila (the more impressive interior).

Once you part ways with your guide consider heading to La Boqueria Market where you will find stalls selling a remarkable array of fresh and local products. Grab lunch at one of the booths or find somewhere on the meridian on Rambla de Catalunya and enjoy people watching.

La Sagrada Familia

After lunch it’s time to wander La Rambla. While you might have heard of this area as being overly touristy, filled with kitchzy shops and pickpockets (and there is some truth in that), the walk itself is lovely. Stroll down the wide tree-lined boulevard, serving as a passage to the waterfront for citizens and tourists alike for over 100 years. There are some nice stops along the way (look at Rick Steves book for a comprehensive self-guided walking tour) and the waterfront at the end opens to an enjoyable seaside promenade where you can continue your walk and take in some ocean air.

Las Ramblas

On your way back to your hotel grab ice cream or a drink (or both) at Rocambolesc, a funky Willy Wonka-like shop and Boadas Cocteleria, a historic and local watering hole.

For dinner give Tapas 2254 a try and delve into some outstanding and innovative tapas.

Stay in the same lodging as the previous night (night 2/4).

Day 13 – Barcelona

Wake up and grab breakfast.

Next head over to the Picasso museum. If you were smart, you got tickets early online and can skip the queue. This very museum offers a collection of Picasso’s work from his early years living in Barcelona (think before he gets into cubism) and tracks the progression of his development. Of note, these are works from his time in the city so the trajectory of his work seems to suddenly end as you wind through the museum.  It’s worth the visit, especially if you like Picasso, but it won’t take more than about 45 minutes to visit.

While you’re in the neighborhood you can grab a snack by popping into Mercat de Santa Caterina, another fun market offering up fresh local food. Make your way to the Barcelona Cathedral, and enjoy a self guided tour of this Baroque structure on top a holy site that’s been in constant use for over 2000 years. Make sure you head to the rooftop terrace and enjoy the sweeping views of the city.

Find a tapas bar to enjoy lunch, we thought most of the options off of Rambla de Catalunya were good, and then head over to Casa Mila to see the Gaudi designed apartments. While you can also see Casa Battlo, Casa Mila is arguably the better of the two because Gaudi fully designed the interior. But on your way walking there or back, stop and take in the exterior of Casa Battlo.

In the afternoon, take a cab or bus out to Park Guell. This park feels like a peaceful refuge in the center of the large metropolis. However the real reason to go is to see the restricted area that includes all of the Gaudi designed elements: two houses, a sweeping staircase, and a wavy balcony. It’s especially nice to head to the park in the early evening around sunset as it gives you wonderful views of the sun setting over the city. To get back, head to the nearby cab stand located right next to the park, or if you’re feeling adventurous you can grab one of the buses.

Park Guell

Have dinner at Ciudad Condal (aka Ciutat Comtal Cerveceria depending which guide you read).

Stay in the same lodging as the previous night (night 3/4).

Day 14 – Sitges

Sitges (24 miles south of Barcelona) offers a fantastic escape from city life in Barcelona with its 17 pristine beaches and charming old town. It’s an extremely LGBTQ friendly beach town and can be known to be a party and festival spot in the summer, so be prepared for crowds if you’re visiting July and August. It also hosts a film festival in October which may make it crowded then too. Located only a 40 minute train ride from downtown Barcelona, 16.50 euros gets you there and back on an easy commuter train that runs about every 20 minutes. Your ticket will work on any of the trains during the day (it’s not time sensitive). If you’re staying in the area we recommend, grab the the train a few minutes walk away at the Passeig de Gracia station.

Grab the train in the morning to allow yourself maximum time in the resort town. After reaching Sitges head to the TI (directly outside of the train station) and grab a free map. Make your way into the charming Old Town and enjoy the rambling narrow streets, balconies dripping with flowers, art galleries, and shops selling upscale goods. Sitges has been a resort town since the 19th century and was an important location for the Moderinisme movement. Once you reach the water, you can’t miss the impressive Sant Bartomeu i Santa Tecla Church right on its edge. Pop in to see the 17th Baroque style interior.

Walk along the beach promenade, Passeig Maritim, to El Vivero, a beach club and restaurant that offers amazing views of the water, old town, and church. Grab a coffee or juice and enjoy the sunshine and views.

Sitges

Continue wandering the promenade. You have your choice of beaches. San Sebastia is one of the locals’ favorite beaches. Bassa Rodona is considered the main gay beach. Fragata has volleyball nets and paddle boats. Most of the beaches offer chair and umbrella rentals and many locations have kayak and stand up paddle board rentals.

Once you get hungry, make your way to El Cable for lunch.

After lunch, decide if you want to grab a drink along an oceanside restaurant or on beach bar, take a dip in the ocean, or rent a chair and sunbathe. You can also visit one of Sitges museums. Museu Maricel shows the artwork of a local collector and includes some Modernista works. The Museu Cau Ferrat has an eclectic collection of art. Museu Romantic is a mansion demonstrating bourgeois life in the 19th century and lots of antique dolls.

Once you’ve had your fill of beach life, hop on the train back to Barcelona.

For before dinner drinks consider La Cervesera Artesana to sample Barcelona’s craft beer movement or for a local feel make your way to the charming Bar Bodega Quimet for a vermouth. For dinner, try the Italian restaurant (trust us) Da Greco for a fun and unique experience.

Stay in the same lodging as the previous night (night 4/4).

Day 15 – Fly Home

Bid goodbye to Spain and grab the metro or a cab to the airport for your flight home.

In terms of departure to the airport, you can get there easily via Barcelona’s local train system (get off at Passeig de Gracia, timetable here, runs every 30 minutes out of terminal 2, buy a ticket at the kiosk), a bus (the blue Aerobuses are a fast shuttle service between the airport and Plaça de Catalunya leaving from Terminal 1 and 2 – buy a ticket in cash from the driver or ahead of time online), or by cab (download the MyTaxi app).

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