Croatia Highlights

Croatia

Croatia Highlights

This eleven day trip (10 days if you cut out Korcula) will include the highlights of Croatia, and best yet, gets you out of Dubrovnik. This trip requires a car so be prepared to rent one. If you have more time to consider the Balkans Highlights Itinerary and add in Slovenia, Bosnia-Herzegovina, and Montenegro.

Length: 11 days

Transport: This is a car based trip –  try holidayautos.com for a good deal.

Recommended Guide book: Rick Steves Croatia

Day 1 – Zagreb to Skocjan Caves, Lipica Farm, and Rovinj

  • Fly into Zagreb
  • Pick up rental car, we used Avant Car
  • Drive to Lipica Stud Farm and explore (2h28m drive)
  • Drive to Škocjan Caves (10m drive) 
  • Enjoy the guided tour of the caves
  • Drive to Rovinj (1h30m drive)–be prepared with your passports 
  • Check into lodging, recommended Vila Kristina (night 1/2)
  • Dinner at Restoran Lovor
  • After dinner drinks at Piassa Granda with its good selection of Croatian wine

Day 2 – Istrian Hill Towns

  • Drive to Motovun and wander the town (1h drive)
  • Drive to Livade (9m drive)
  • Enjoy a truffle filled lunch at Konoba Dolina in Gradinje
  • Drive to Zavrsje, a very cool “ghost town” (25m drive)
    • note, this is a drive along gravel
  • Drive to Groznjan and wander the town (15m drive) 
  • Drive back towards Motovun (25m drive)
  • Wine taste at Vina Fakin and Tomaz near Motovun
  • Drive back to Rovinj (1h drive) 
  • Have dinner along the marina
  • Lodging—same place, (night 2/2)

Day 3 – Rovinj and Opatija

Day 4 – Plitvice National Park

  • Drive to Plitvice National Park / Lakes (2h37m drive)
  • Hike the lakes (approx 4 hours)
  • Grab dinner, we had a decent experience at Restoran Degenja 
  • Drive to your lodging, we liked House Tina

Day 5 – Split to Hvar

Day 6 – Hvar and Pakleni Islands

Day 7 – Hvar and Korčula

  • Make your way to the Old Town square and grab breakfast at a bakery
  • Bus/private tour of Hvar with guide (see details below): Old Town Hvar, Hvar Fortress, Brusije village and lavender fields, Velo Grablje, Stari Grad, Vrboska, Jelsa
  • Lunch at Palaca Paladini
  • Pastry stop at Nonica
  • Shop and wander the waterfront
  • Catch the 17:05 or 17:55 boat to Korkula (ferry schedule)
  • Explore Korkula’s Old Town, Old Town Walls, St. Mark’s Cathedral
  • Catch the Moreska Dance (a medieval folk dance performed by locals Monday/Thursday at 21:00)
  • Dinner at Konoba Škver (popular with locals too) 
  • Dessert at Cukarin
  • Lodging–Consider Old Town Apartments or Apartments and Room Nina, or apartments Stelina (night 1/1)

**Note: if you need to shorten the trip, you can ferry directly from Hvar to Dubrovnik and remove the day in Korcula. 

Day 8 -Korčula to Dubrovnik

Day 9 – Dubrovnik

Day 10 – Lokrum Island to Zagreb

Day 11 – Zagreb to home

  • Zagreb day tour–self guided or can opt for a guide
    • Jelačić Square, Zagreb’s main square with a statue of Josip Jelačić
    • Trg Petra Preradovića flower market and cafes
    • Funicular (shortest in the world) to Gradec for views
    • Walk the Strossmayer Promenade
    • Church of St. Catherine
    • City Parliament
    • St. Mark’s Square and Church of St. Mark
    • Ban’s Palace
    • Gradec’s Stone Gate
    • Tkalčićeva street
    • Zagreb’s Cathedral
  • Take a coffee break at one of Zagreb’s many outdoor cafes
  • Museum of Broken Relationships 
  • Naïve art museum
  • Grab dinner, we enjoyed Pivnica Medvedgrad
  • Late flight home

Detailed Itinerary 

Day 1 – Zagreb to Skocjan Caves, Lipica Farm, and Rovinj

Welcome to Croatia. Fly into Zagreb and land early. Hopefully you had an overnight layover (like they give you on Turkish Air) or slept well on the plane. If you have an extra day or are arriving in the afternoon, spend the night in Zagreb. Pick up your rental car, we used Avant Car which we booked through Holiday Autos. 

Drive to the Lipica Stud Farm (2h28m drive). Enjoy your tour of the farm, watch the beautiful horses train, or catch a show. Enjoy a picnic lunch with a scenic view at their picnic tables.

Next, drive 10 minutes to the Škocjan Caves. Enjoy the guided tour of some of the most impressive caves you will ever see. Cross a bridge 150 feet above rushing water below and imagine the earliest explorers into these caves.

Finally drive to your final destination of Rovinj (1h30m drive). Check into your lodging (we liked Vila Kristina). Wander down to the Marina to take in views of historic Rovinj on the hill. Eat at Restoran Lovor for some truly incredible Croatian fare. If you’re still wide-awake check out Piassa Granda with a good selection of Croatian wine.

Lipica Stud Farm

Day 2 – Istrian Hill Towns

Today is your chance to explore the Istrian hill towns. Get a mid-morning start and after a leisurely breakfast begin by driving to Motovun (1h drive). Motovun is situated on the top of a hill among vinyards. It’s Old Town boasts a colorful church and a rampart walk that gives good views of the Istrian region. Enjoy wandering the streets and through the artisan shops.

Next drive through Livade, a small town situated near truffle forests and make your way down a 5 minute gravel road to Gradinje where one of the most amazing restaurants ever exists: Konoba Doblina. Eat the most amazing, least expensive truffle dishes in great quantities before continuing your drive to Zavrsje. In Zavrsje park and explore this nearly uninhabited hill town (abandoned after WWII) where plants crawl along the floor and up the interior walls of crumbling, abandoned buildings. Rather than a town in disarray it feels oddly magical.

Finish your day by driving back towards Groznjan and doing some wine tasting. We tasted at Vina Fakin, which was a great, albeit unique, experience. If one spot wasn’t enough, you can stop by Tomaz as well that had a nice, though we didn’t think as great, selection.

After you finish wine tasting make your way back to Rovinj (1h drive). Once in Rovinj find somewhere nice for dinner on the marina (or do what we did and eat at Restoran Lovor again).

Istrian Hill Town

Day 3 – Rovinj and Opatija

Enjoy a morning walking tour of Rovinj and take in all of the sites of the old town from the market to rambling streets to Church of St. Euphemia. After your morning tour continue onto Pula (42m drive).

Pula is Istria’s biggest city with the wonderful attraction of one of the best preserved Roman amphitheaters in the world. Definitely worth a stop on your travels.

Next drive to Opatija and get lunch. Good luck parking, hopefully your hotel has some suggestions. Enjoy wandering this ritzy beach town. At one point in history this was the place to be if you were elite and from the Hapsburg Empire or Russia. The blend of neoclassical and art nouveau architecture is quite impressive. Grab dinner at your hotel or enjoy a Vienna-style coffee house.

Check into your hotel. Consider Amadria Park Hotel Agava or Hotel Gardenija.

Rovinj

Day 4 – Plitvice National Park

Drive to Plitvice National Park (2h37m drive). Tour these magnificent lakes on a 1/2 day hike. Make sure to take the boat ride to the upper lakes.

Eating options in this area are limited, so don’t expect anything spectacular. We ate at Restoran Degenja which was on the way to our lodging and offered fairly decent pizza among other options.

Check into your lodging. We stayed at House Tina which was decently nice, well-located, and cheaper than staying in the park.

Plitvice

Day 5 – Split to Hvar

Begin your day by driving to Split (2h44m drive). After the unending natural beauty of Plitvice, Split can feel like a disappointment. As a port city, Split is dirty, urban, and touristy to a point of heckling. It’s worth a visit for the impressive Old Town and Diocletian’s Palace, but in our opinion, not worth an overnight stay.

Drop your rental car off at Avant Car’s site in downtown Split–you won’t need it for the rest of the trip.

Grab lunch on the Riva, Split’s seaside promenade. If you have extra time before you tour you can consider visiting the Mestrovic Gallery, Split’s best art museum.

Meet your tour guide for a Split walking tour and enjoy the history of the Old Town and Diocletian’s Palace. After your tour, grab a drink and snack at one of the charming outdoor cafes peppering the Old Town. Pop into the Diocletian’s Cellars and Cathedral of St. Dominus if you have additional time.

Catch a 4pm catamaran to Hvar (catamaran schedule). Enjoy this pleasant boat ride to the island.

Once on Hvar either walk 10 minutes uphill or arrange through your lodging for a taxi to transport you and your luggage. We thoroughly enjoyed our stay at Apartments Biba (night 1/2). 

Wander back down to the pier for dinner on the waterfront at Kod Kapetana.

Hvar Port

Day 6 – Hvar and Pakleni Islands

In the morning find your boat for the day to explore the Pakleni Islands. We used a local guy recommended by our AirBnB which turned out to be a great deal, but everywhere you look places are offering boat taxis or try Hvar Boats. The driver should take you around to a few islands, let you enjoy lunch on one of them, before bringing you back to Hvar in the afternoon.

We enjoyed exploring the island of Jerolim with its olive trees, beautiful beaches, and funky artwork. We hit a few more islands on our way to Palmizana (the Vlaka side) where we swam and grabbed cocktails at Laganini Lounge Bar and Fish House. Next head to Bacchus Palmižana and try Croatia’s famous salt-baked fish. Take a nice hike through forest to the other side of the island offering more pristine beaches. Cruise around some more islands or head back to Hvar.

Once in Hvar you can wander through the shops in the town, grab some famous lavender gelato, and have some pre-dinner drinks at Pršuta 3 Wine Bar. Sit along a tiny cobblestone street while the waiter recommends flights of Croatian wine.

Head back to your hotel and stop by the grocery store (we liked Market Zatsup) for some picnic supplies for dinner, and enjoy them on your balcony.

Hvar

Day 7 – Hvar and Korčula

Today you will explore the island of Hvar. We went through a recommendation of our AirBnB host and it turned out to be really fantastic,email Šime Fio (sime.fio@gmail.com) who’s wife Tania is a certified local guide. She did an amazing job taking us on an all day tour of the island of Hvar and explaining the history and culture. You could also try Secret Hvar or Tours by Locals.

Begin in Old Town Hvar on foot and learn about the town history and landmarks including St. Stephen’s Square, Cathedral of St. Stephen, and the Franciscan Monastery. After, get in your tour vehicle and visit Hvar Fortress above the Old Town and take in the views. Next continue towards Brusije village and the lavender fields. Try and stop in the village of Velo Grablje to get a feel of island life on Hvar and then make your way to Stari Grad and a tour of the town. Next visit Vrboska, the village known as “Hvar Venice” and Jelsa. The tour takes a little over 1/2 the day.

Consider grabbing lunch in Stari Grad or Jelsa if you’re feeling hungry or have lunch back in Hvar at Palaca Paladini.

Now’s you’re chance to poke around the cool shops of Hvar. Keep a look out for their lavender and olive wood products. Make your way to Nonica for a amazing sweet snack.

Catch the 17:20 boat to Korkula (ferry schedule).  Korcula, aka Little Dubrovnik, hosts white wineries, woods, fishing vineyards and is famous for being the supposed birthplace of Marco Polo.

Spend your evening exploring Korkula on foot. Take in the decorated staircase and gate leading to the Old Town, the 16th century Town Hall and Rector’s Palace, the church of St. Michael.

Try and catch the Moreska Dance (a medieval folk dance performed by locals). It’s performed Jun-Oct every Thursday at 21:00 and Jul-Aug every Monday at the same time too.

Hvar

Day 8 – Korkula to Dubrovnik

Finish up your tour of Korkula by seeing St. Mark’s Cathedral, the Old Town Walls, Marco Polo Museum and poking around shops. You could go for a swim or grab a bus/car to other areas on the island including: Lumbarda (3 miles away, a resort village with beaches and wine), Pupnat (oldest village on the island), Cara (a wine growing town), or Smokvica (another wine growing town).

Take a 16:00 boat to Dubrovnik.

Check into your lodging. We stayed in one of the worst places we’ve ever stayed so we are not recommending it. It looks like the posting on AirBnB disappeared but if you happen upon a Nobleman’s Villa know that you are renting out a hostel (along with lockers and metal bunkbeds, we had backpackers show up at 8am wanting to leave their things the day we left). Unless you like hostels, because it has a 9.1 average on hostel bookers. It’s worth it to stay in Old Town so consider Villa Ragusa, Apartments Pavisa or Apartment Plaza (night 1/3). 

Have dinner at Restaurant Kopan (try the rooster) in the square near St.Ignatius Church and watch as the streets slowly empty of people returning to their tour buses or cruise ships. Now the city is yours.

Meander through Dubrovnik. Climb the stairs up walls that empty into bars perched on the outside of the wall. Enjoy the artisan shops. Marvel at the winding cobbled streets and old architecture. When you’ve had your fill, make your way to Malvasija Wine Bar for some great Croatian wine tasting/a nightcap.

Dubrovnik

Day 9 – Dubrovnik

Begin your morning early by grabbing breakfast at one of the many bakeries or restaurants scattered within the walls. Try and walk the Dubrovnik City Walls early (8am is when they open) before cruise ships or tour buses arrive for the day. The walk is a little over a mile and takes a few hours with plenty of time to stop and enjoy the view and take pictures.

Have an early lunch at Lady Pi-Pi. Don’t forget to take a good look at the statue the restaurant is named for and enjoy a rooftop view of Dubrovnik while enjoying cooked-in-front-of you dishes.

Take a midday tour of the city. Meet your guide near the main entrance gate for an afternoon walking tour. You’ll be pressed for space with hundreds of tourists pouring into the town every minute, so a guide is extremely helpful. Ours was able to walk us around the entire town and explain the history well. It’s a very nice overview of Dubrovnik.

Though the best part of Dubrovnik are the city walls and simply strolling the Stadum, it has some fairly interesting museums as well. If you plan on seeing multiple museums, purchase the Dubrovnik card which saves you a lot of money in doing so. You can buy it at the TI. The best museums were the Franciscan Monastery Museum, Rector’s Palace, Dominican Monastery Museum, and Cathedral. The Franciscan Monastery Museum which was where monks lived in the Middle Ages and served as pharmacists for the community. Now there is a cloister and old pharmacy left to visit. The Rector’s Palace was where the Rector, Dubrovnik’s equivalent to Venice’s Doge, used to live. The Palace was plundered twice and is fairly empty besides items donated by local aristocrats. It does offer an impressive courtyard. The Dominican Monastery Museum has many of Dubrovnik’s art pieces, including one by Titian, and a pretty inside cloister. The Cathedral is where Dubrovnik’s original 12th century cathedral stood, built with funds from Richard the Lionheart. The current version is from the 18th century after an earthquake destroyed the original in the 17th.

In the early evening take time to shop or from Rudjera Boškovića follow a sign that says “Cold Drinks” through a hole in the city wall to a bar perched precariously on the cliff over the Adriatic, Buža II. Enjoy watching the swimmers as the sun goes downs over the sea.

For  dinner, go to Dalmatino for a special experience. The restaurant creates amazing traditional Dalmatian fare with a twist. If you’re going to splurge in Dubrovnik, this is the place.

After dinner return to your apartment or have a nightcap at Malvasija Wine Bar again, or try another wine bar, D’Vino.

Stay in the same place you did the night before (night 2/2).

Dubrovnik

Day 10 – Lokrum Island and Zagreb

Take a quick ferry from Dubrovnik to Lokrum Island (20 minute ride) right off the Old Town of Dubrovnik. This island is an ideal place to swim and one which the locals prefer because of the lack of tourists. There are many rocky beaches with easy access to the water from ladders stretching down from the rocks. It’s probably a good idea to wear water shoes and be careful of stepping on anemones. Also be wary of swimming and climbing out on a nude beach. The nudists are not accepting of those that wear suits and will make you get back into the water and swim back the way you came.

After enjoying the water hike around one of the many paths that cross the island through thick trees. On the island there is a pink visitors center with info and a map. On the opposite side of the island from where you arrived is a nice area with access to the sea and a saltwater “lake” with rocks placed to jump into it. There are cafes offering meals and drinks throughout the island.

When you return to Dubrovnik grab an early dinner at Restaurant Kamenice (look for the blue striped chairs on Market Square).

Take an evening flight to Zagreb (28m drive to the airport from Old Town). Either take a cab or take the Croatia Airlines bus from the airport to the main bus station and then take the tram to within a short one block walk to the Best Western Premier Hotel Astoria (night 1/1).

Day 11 – Zagreb to Home

After breakfast at your hotel, explore the country’s very pretty capitol of Zagreb. Either do a self-guided tour out of a book, which we found quite easy, or opt for a guide, Free Spirit Walking Tour.

Make your way to Jelačić Square, Zagreb’s main square with a statue of Josip Jelačić. Take in Zagreb’s most active square. From there head to Gradec hill along Ilica street. Take in the Octagon shopping gallery and Trg Petra Preradovića square with flower markets and cafes. The make your way to the world’s smallest funicular up to the top of Gradec for its views. Make your way along Strossmayer Promenade to the Church of St. Catherine with its grand Baroque interior. You’re now near Zagreb’s best two museums: Museum of Broken Relationships and Naïve art museum both very worth a stop. Whenever you need a break stop at one of Zagreb’s numerous outdoor cafes and enjoy people watching with your coffee. Once you leave the museums make your way to the city’s yellow Parliament and St. Mark’s Square with the Church of St. Mark and Sabor. Ban’s Palace, today’s office of the Prime Minister is across the square. Then walk from St. Mark’s Square to the cathedral. On the way you can spot Gradec’s original town gate, the Stone Gate. Once you explore the cathedral make your way to Zagreb’s colorful street,Tkalčićeva hosting tons of shops and restaurants.

Grab a coffee, a drink, or dinner on this street. We enjoyed dinner at Pivnica Medvedgrad. Finish your day a the the cathedral which is Zagreb’s most important house of worship. You’re right near Jelačić Square at that point.

Take a late flight home or stay one more night and fly out the following morning.

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