Costa Rica Highlights

Costa Rica

Costa Rica Highlights

Costa Rica is a small country (roughly the size of Vermont and New Hampshire) but packed with attractions and activities. It is justifiably incredibly popular and well worth a visit. Many people just head to the beautiful beaches. You shouldn’t miss them, but there is so much more to see and experience! Be sure and get out and see the rest of the country as well.

Here we describe an itinerary that gives a good sample of what makes this country special.

Length: 14 days

Transportation: Rental car or hired driver

Best Guide Books: Fodor’s Costa Rica, Lonely Planet Costa Rica

Day 1 – San Jose

Day 2 – Caribbean and Turtles

  • Drive to Tortuguero (2h30 drive) or Barre de Pacuare (2h48 drive)
    • Tortuguero or Barre de Pacuare is best March to June; Tortuguero is best July to October
    • Alternatively you can fly directly to Tortuguero
  • Pass through Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo along the way
    • Rio Sucia
  • Dinner – at lodging
  • Lodging – Tortuguero: Tortuga Lodge, Mawamba Lodge, or Evergreen Lodge; Barre de Pacuare: Lirio Lodge (night 1/2)
  • Night turtle expedition

Day 3 – Beach and Jungle

  • Explore canals/jungle
  • Play on beach
  • Night canal and/or repeat turtle expedition
  • Dinner – at lodging
  • Lodging – same place (night 2/2)

Day 4 – River Rafting and Jungle

Day 5 – Volcano and Hot Springs

Day 6 – Canyoneering or Hiking

  • Options:
    • Hike – Choose a hike in the mountain to a waterfall hike
      • Most convenient from Arenal Observatory lodge
    • Waterfall rappelling/canyoneering – Pure Trek or La Roca
  • Hot Springs (choose one you didn’t try the day before)
  • Dinner – Las Brisas del Lago, Café Mediterraneo, or Don Rufino
  • Lodging – same place (night 2/2)

Day 7 – Blue River and Waterfall

Day 8 – Beach Day – Playa Hermosa

Day 9 – Monteverde Cloud Forest

  • Drive to Monteverde (2h 33m)
    • Roads up to Monteverde can be awful – check that your rental car outfit allows drives here
  • Zipline
  • Dinner – Celejas, Morphos, or Treehouse
  • Lodging – Hotel Belmar Monteverde (night 1/ 2)

Day 10 – Horses and Cloud Forest

Day 11 – Beach and Monkeys

Day 12 – Manuel Antonio

Day 13 – Coffee Tour

Day 14 – Fly home

  • Fly Home

Detailed Itinerary

Day 1 – San Jose

Welcome to Costa Rica! Most flights from the USA and Europe arrive in San Jose, Costa Rica’s capital and main city, in the afternoon or evening, so it may be that your first day is only traveling and settling in. However, there’s plenty to do in San Jose if you happen to arrive in the morning.

You can get around without a car in Costa Rica, but for best flexibility and ease of travel we suggest renting one. You can get around by transfer/plane/ taxi / bus as well – just note that it is not quite as easy or flexible. Another option is to hire a guide and/or driver; this is the most expensive option, but it reduces the stress of driving in a foreign country, as Costa Rica can be particularly tricky with rental cars.

If you are renting a car, pick it up at the airport and be sure and arrange the car rental ahead of time as it’s likely cheaper arranging from outside the country. Costa Rica has a government-imposed basic liability insurance on rental cars. All rental car companies in Costa Rica must impose this charge and you can’t decline it by law, even if you have other forms of coverage. This does NOT include car damage protection however. Therefore, spend some time looking into insurance – your credit card CDW may not work here – even if it does, get a letter approving you for Costa Rica. This is also a place where a small ding may end up with a ridiculous repair bill – photograph the car before you leave the lot. The roads can be terrible in this country (lots of potholes, gravel, dirt roads – especially to the dock at Tortugeuro and the road to Monteverde), so consider a 4 wheel drive for ground clearance if nothing else. Check ahead of time to be sure that you are allowed to take the car along the road you are planning (even some 4WD may have restrictions). Here’s a website that talks about driving in Costa Rica and has links to some road conditions. Here is a website with information specific to costa Rica car rentals.

Because of anxiety about less-than-stellar road conditions many folks opt for shuttles and transfers. That’s OK but reduces flexibility and adds complexity. In our opinion driving here is fine and very doable. One more caveat: even though distances are not far, driving times can be slow due to the quality of the roads. You might want to consider an internal flight to, for example Tortugeuro to save time.

San Jose itself is a bit of a crowded mess (and honestly not our favorite). Consider saving yourself some time and aggravation and stay in a more charming area like Heredia or Alajuela (near the airport), or in the hills or coffee fields right outside of town.

If you absolutely want to see San Jose, head to the center of the city and visit the Teatro Nacional, San Jose’s most beautiful building, the nearby San José’s Metropolitan Cathedral, Parque Metropolitano La Sabana (San Jose’s central park), or stop by Biesanz Woodworks, a beautiful wood working artisan.

We think it’s probably better to head to Heredia, a university town with colonial area buildings around a downtown square. Enjoy exploring it on-foot. You could also opt to do a coffee tour of Finca Blanca (though we fit this in for you when you return to San Jose on the last day), just relax by the pool at your hotel in the afternoon.

For lodging, we recommend the Finca Rosa Blanca Coffee Plantation, a beautiful lodge right in the middle of a working coffee plantation. You could go a little further out to Finca Paraiso mountain resort. Another option is the Marriot Hacienda Belen. If you want to be right downtown look at Hotel Grano de Oro.

Day 2 – Caribbean and Turtles

Today you’re heading to some turtles. If you haven’t seen turtles nesting on a beach it’s a really incredible experience. You have a choice to make today: are you heading to Tortugeuro (2h30 drive) or Barre de Pacuare (2h48 drive)? The reason for the choice is turtle nesting season: leatherbacks are found along the beach in Barre de Pacuare from March to June, and green turtles are found in Tortuguero from July to October. Choose accordingly. Tortugeuro has many more amenities, while Barre de Paquare is quite remote. You may be able to still see leatherbacks in Tortuguero, but your chances are much better at Barre de Paquare. The green turtle nesting at Tortuguero is more reliable (leatherbacks are endangered and rarer). Of note, from October through March, you can find leatherbacks at Playa Grande (not included in this itinerary but you can adjust it accordingly – Playa Grande is not too far from Playa Hermosa). Regardless, be sure and arrange your night turtle expedition for the evening you arrive.

Driving to the Caribbean coast you will pass through Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo, a large swath of virgin rain forest. The most remarkable sight on the drive is the bright yellow Rio Sucia (the “dirty river,” colored by volcanic sulfurous run-off). The most cost-effective way to reach Tortuguero is by car and boat (until recently the only option was flying or a very long boat trip from Limon). To catch the boat, head to La Pavona where you will find the dock for Tortuguero. The last part of the drive is on dirt roads for at least 16km. Public boats leave 4 times a day (at 7:30, 11:00, 13:00 and 16:00, but check the schedule in case there are changes). We suggest arranging boat transportation through your hotel. The boat ride is about an hour and 15 minutes.

Another option is to fly. There is an airstrip right in Tortuguero with connections three times per day from San Jose airport. If you choose this route, you should pick up your rental car when you fly back to San Jose after exploring the Caribbean coast. Then drive to Sarapiqui to continue your trip.

If instead of Tortuguero you are headed to Lirio lodge (Barre de Pacuare’s only option), you will need to drive or arrange transport with the hotel from the San Jose area.

If you are here at the right time of the year, be prepared for one of the most amazing things you’ll ever see. In the middle of the night giant sea turtles haul themselves up the beach to dig a nest in the sand and lay their eggs. They go into a trance and so (with a trained guide) you can actually get quite close to them to see this. Leatherbacks are the largest turtles in the word, typically 8 feet long and 1500 pounds, and little changed for the last 100 million years.

Have dinner at your lodging. For lodgings in Tortuguero you have some options: Evergreen Lodge, Tortuga Lodge, or Mawamba Lodge. If you’re staying in Barre de Pacuare head to the Lirio Lodge.

Sloth

Day 3 – Beach and Jungle

This whole area is set on a series of canals that serve as a coastal transportation route but also are lined with lush jungle. You have virtually unlimited options for activities through the lodge you are staying at. During the day you can grab a canoe or kayak and channel you inner Indiana Jones as you cruise through the jungle. A guided boat tour is also a great option: the guides are fantastic at spotting wildlife you’d almost certainly miss on your own. You can opt for a hike through the jungle, hopefully spotting sloths, toads, and monkeys. Depending on your lodging you can also dip your toes in the Caribbean or hang out on the beach (many lodgings here are not on the beach and you’ll need to boat over there). Or just relax by the pool surrounded by the sounds of the jungle.

Tortugeuro canals

At night consider arranging a canal boat tour through your lodge (more animals are active at night) or repeating the turtle expedition (especially if you did not have good luck your first night).

Day 4 – River rafting and jungle

Leave early for drive to Sarapiqui (2h 30m from Barre de Pacuare; 2h 14 from Tortuguero). Remember to add 1:15 for the boat from Tortuguero to the parking lot. If you fly from Tortuguero back to San Jose it is a 1h 19m drive from the airport to La Virgen.

The big event of the day is a half-day river rafting trip on the Sarapiqui through class 2/3 jungle river rapids. The more adventurous can opt for a class 3/4 trip instead. Alternatively, opt for a morning trip tomorrow and spend the afternoon exploring the nature reserves.

The other things to do here include natural history and/or chocolate tours in the Tirimbina reserve, or tours of the La Selva Reserve. You can also do night tours of the reserves as well (see links from the lodging pages for tour information). Eat dinner at your lodge, one of the Tirimbina Lodge, Selva Verde Lodge, or Sarapuiqui Rainforest Lodge.

Day 5 – Volcano and hot springs

Begin your day by driving to the La Fortuna area (1h 37m). La Fortuna and the nearby Arenal area has become quite a tourist destination. In the past one of the big draws was the Arenal Volcano which put on a lava show every night but has become dormant for the past few years. Nevertheless, the volcano is still a beautiful perfect cone, and there are lots of other activities in the area. We suggest a short hike to La Fortuna waterfall where you can swim in the large pool under the falls. The parking lot can get crowded, so go early if possible. For lunch try Soda La Parada, one of many “sodas”—the ubiquitous local cheap lunch counters.

The other big draw in this area (beside the volcano) is hot springs. All of that volcanic activity makes a lot of hot water and there are a whole bunch of hot springs in the area: Tabacon Hot springs or the adjacent free hot river. There are plenty of other options: Baldi Hot springs mostly known for its swim-up bar with a somewhat younger (think school-age) crowd; Paradise Hot Springs, with a very upscale Disneyland-in-the-jungle-vibe (episodes of The Bachelor were filmed here); Arenal Springs Resort; and several others. If sitting in hot water in the tropics doesn’t immediately appeal to you, opt for Arenal Springs (they have the prettiest grounds).

La Fortuna waterfall

Dinner – Las Brisas del Lago, Café Mediterraneo, Don Rufino

Lodging – Nayara Gardens (splurge), Arenal Observatory Lodge, Arenal Volcano Inn, or Tabacon Resort (1/2)

Day 6 – Canyoneering or hiking

The Arena area has become an adventure center with a series of ziplines, river rafting, etc. We’d save ziplining for the cloud forest in Monte Verde (where it all began), but if you want a double dose this is a good place for it. But one activity you may want to try here is canyoneering – this is a good place for it – where you rappel and jump off waterfalls and swim through pools all surrounded by beautiful forest. Pure Trek and La Roca get the best reviews. If all of this sounds like too much adrenaline, there is a lot of interesting hiking in the area – especially from near the Arenal Observatory lodge.

Arenal Volcano

Of coarse after all that work you should probably soak in a hot spring…

Food – Las Brisas del Lago, Café Mediterraneo, Don Rufino

Stay sam place (2/2)

Day 7 – Blue river and waterfall to beach

There are a lot of National Parks in Costa Rica – it is one of the draws if the country that there is so much preserved. Interestingly it is a relatively recent phenomenon – National Parks and preservation really started only in the 1970’s. Today you’ll visit a park that until relatively recently was rarely visited due to accessibility but it now limited in visit due to popularity (sine the road was improved) – Tenorio National Park and Rio Celeste (1h 37m from Arenal). You’ll probably have no problem getting in if you get here early and there are a lot of great walks in the area – including to the famous sky blue Rio Celeste and waterfall but also to natural hot springs along the river.

Rio Celeste waterfall

From here head to Playa Hermosa. Playa Hermosa means literally “beautiful beach” will be you sampling of the famous and popular pacific coast Guanacaste beaches. The weather here is drier so less chance of rain but it can get a bit brown in the dry season – quite a change for the jungle you’ve been in until now. (2 h 11m)

Food – Ginger Restaurant and Bar or La Casita de Marisco

Lodging – Hotel Bosque del Mar Playa Hermosa (1/2)

Day 8 – Beach Day – Playa Hermosa

If you are the sort of person who can spend the day on the beach this is the place for you. The beach here is beautiful – wide, long, family safe for swimming. If you are like me and can sit in a beach for maybe 30 minutes this is the place for you – there are a lot of activities yo can arrange – snorkeling tours. boat trip to nearby forest reserve, sunset sail – all through your hotel or local outfits. In any case here’s a day to spend relaxing – a vacation from your vacation.

Food – Ginger Restaurant and Bar or La Casita de Marisco

Stay same place (2/2)

Day 9 – Monteverde Cloud Forest

Ok enough goofing around on the beach- you have a country to explore. Today we are off to the Monteverde cloud forest (2h 33m). In the past the roads here were legendarily bad – and the one from the Arenal area still is. But 606 is now either all or mostly paved. It is still not a bad idea to have a 4×4 (for ground clearance) as the road past Santa Elena is not paved and the road is still a windy mountain road subject to potholes. But by report much better than the last time we were there.

This is an interesting part of the country. A group of American Quakers settled here isn the 1950’s when they we looking for a place to move and avoid mandatory service in the Korean War (which was against their religious beliefs). Costa Rica had recently disbanded their army (they still have 96% literacy and no standing army). The Quakers, looking for land to farm, found Monteverde and settled here. With some convincing from biologists in the 1960’s – 1970’s they began setting up reserves to protect the native forest and the result is the first forest protections in the country

Today the area has become a popular to visit, and is home to the first commercial zip lines on the planet (they are now all over the globe but were invented in Costa Rica by a biologist to study the jungle canopy). This is a fascinating and beautiful place to visit. It is 4662 feet and a lot cooler than the lower areas. there are clouds much of the time (hence the term cloud forest) but this leads to a unique and fascinating ecosystem.

The two main activities here are cloud forest tours and Canopy zip lining but we think this is also a great place for horseback riding.

This is a great day to try your hand at zip lining. Drive up the mountain and , drop your bags at Hotel Belmar and head up to zip lining. You basically fly through the trees from one platform to another – when we did it on the longest tour you literally were flying through a cloud until the forest came into view again.

Ziplining

Food – Celejas at your lodging (among the best in the area), Morphos, or Treehouse

Lodging – Hotel Belmar Monteverde (1/ 2)

Hotel Belmar

Day 10 – Horses and more Cloud Forest

If you did not get time to zipline the day before do it today. We suggest arranging a horseback tour in the area as well as a Monteverde reserve tour. How you arrange the time is up to you but I’d figure out a way to do all three – zip lining, reserve guided tour, and horses.

Monteverde horseback riding

Food – Celejas at your lodging (among the best in the area), Morphos, or Treehouse

Lodging – same place (2/2)

Day 11 – To Beach and monkeys

Drive to Manuel Antonio National Park area (approx 3 hours).

Tiny Manuel Antonio National Park (7 sq km) is also the most popular on Costa Rica and it is not difficult to see why – gorgeous view, beautiful beaches, dense rainforest, lovely trails, and an abundance of wildlife. Monkey sightings are pretty much assured, but you will also potentially see tucans, macaws, bats, an array of reptiles, and sloths. The downside is that it can get crowded. We strongly recommend you hire a guide. Your hotel should be able to arrange one for you, but we also found Tucanes Guides to be great or check out

Tiny Manuel Antonio National Park (7 sq km) is also the most popular on Costa Rica and it is not difficult to see why – gorgeous view, beautiful beaches, dense rainforest, lovely trails, and an abundance of wildlife. Monkey sightings are pretty much assured, but you will also potentially see tucans, macaws, bats, an array of reptiles, and sloths. The downside is that it can get crowded. We strongly recommend you hire a guide. Your hotel should be able to arrange one for you, but we also found Tucanes Guides to be great. We honestly think the National Park would be a waste without one. Arrive early (7am in high season) and head to the further reaches if you want some peace and quiet. Your guide should walk you along the trails pointing out things through their super zoom telescope. Both of the beaches are lovely though not always safe for swimming – ask the rangers. The first beach you’ll come to (right after the snack area) is gentler and more crowded. The second beach more secluded but often more dangerous. You should consider hiring a guide to best view the wildlife. There will be a bunch of guides lined up at the entrance – but not all are actually well trained or certified – you can choose one out of major guide books or head to Tours by Locals. We honestly think the National Park would be a waste without one. Arrive early (7am in high season) and head to the further reaches if you want some peace and quiet. Your guide should walk you along the trails pointing out things through their super zoom telescope. Both of the beaches are lovely though not always safe for swimming – ask the rangers. The first beach you’ll come to (right after the snack area) is gentler and more crowded. The second beach more secluded but often more dangerous. You should consider hiring a guide to best view the wildlife.

The afternoon is again yours to do what you will. Spend all day at the National Park beaches, relax at the main public beach or at your hotel. You could also opt for an activity: kayaking the mangroves, surfing lessons, snorkeling, a night rainforest hike, sunset sail, visiting a spice farm…the options really are limitless.

If you want a taste of local culture on Friday evening or Saturday morning find time in your two days to visit the Farmers market (La Feria) in nearby Quepo.

Manuel Antonio

Food – La Luna, Claro Que Si, Buena Vista Beach Club (literally on the beach)

Lodging – Hotel Si Como No or Hotel Costa Verde , Hotel Playa Espadilla, Arenes del Mar (1/2)

Day 12 – Manuel Antonio

More of the same from the day before. Or, as this is a developed resort area with all of the amenities you might expect in Costa Rica you can select from a bunch of other activities: Mangrove tour by boat or kayak to see wildlife, a half dozen zip line operations, and white water rafting the class 2/3 nearby Savegre River.

Manuel Antonio

Food – La Luna, Claro Que Si, Buena Vista Beach Club (literally on the beach)

Lodging – same place (2/2)

Day 13 – Drive to San Jose, coffee tour

Return to Heredia / San Jose. On the way stop by the town of Sarchi (2h 23m) for craft shopping. Then head to Finca Rosa Blanca (46 m) for your last night’s lodging and a coffee tour. Reserve in advance for the 3pm tour.

Food – El Tigre Vestido at Finca Rosa

Lodging – Finca Rosa Blanca Coffee Plantation) (1/1)

Day 14 – Fly home

Drive to the airport, turn in your rental car, and board your flight home.

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