Canadian Rockies – Banff/Lake Louise

Canadian Rockies – Banff/Lake Louise

As you can probably tell from the website, we’ve been to a lot of spectacular places. Mile for mile this may be the absolute best. Once in your life (if not more) you should visit here. Enjoy unparalleled scenery of towering mountains and turquoise lakes, hiking along gorges, and revel in nature.

There is a fair amount of walking on this trip, but none of the hiking is really very difficult.

Length: 8 days

Transportation: This is a car based trip – you will need a car rental. No driving days are too intense and the scenery makes the miles fly by.

Best Guide Book: A Week or Two in the Canadian Rockies by Darren Critchley

Day 1

Day 2

Day 3

Day 4

Day 5

Day 6

Day 7

Day 8

  • Drive to Calgary (1h30 drive)
  • Fly home

Detailed Itinerary

Day 1

Depending on what time you arrive may change what you are able to do today. The easiest place to fly into is Calgary.

From the Calgary airport it is an easy 1.5 hour drive to the beautiful mountain town of Banff. Banff was put on the map when the Canadian Railroad started taking passengers to the hot springs there. The tourist traffic lead to the development of the iconic Banff Springs Hotel and really the development of Banff as a tourist destination. Today millions of people come to visit – in the summer for the gorgeous scenery, in the winter for the fantastic skiing.

Banff is a tourist town with lots of facilities for travelers. But being set in the Canadian Rockies, the views from town can be amazing. When you arrive, take some time to wander the downtown area, poking into shops. On Wednesdays in the summer there is a farmers market that takes place in the park.

“Downtown” Banff

Bow Falls is just a short distance from downtown and has a nice viewpoint. There are also paved trails along the river to get there. Several classic Hollywood films of the 1950s depicted famous movie stars being swept over Bow Falls, including Marilyn Monroe, Robert Mitchum – even the Son of Lassie. If you have an extra day, some great whitewater rafting trips also leave from Bow Falls.

Bow Falls

From town head across the river and visit a couple more iconic Banff sites. The Fairmont Banff Springs hotel sits like a castle on the hill across the river from town. Even if you don’t stay here take some tome to wander though the lobby (or grab lunch). Then head up to the very historic Cave and Basin Hot Springs Complex. This was Canada’s first national park and makes for an interesting tour. You can no longer soak here but the almost as historic  Upper Hot Springs are available for public use.

Sufficiently relaxed by the hot water, head back to town and grab drinks at the Banff Avenue Brewing Company.

For dinner try the Grizzly House for fondue and to get your 70’s vibe on, or The Bison for Canadian farm to table dining. If you’re craving steak, head to Chuck’s Steakhouse. Block offers Asian inspired cuisine, Maple Leaf has Canadian cuisine, and Toolouloo’s has Cajun. If you’re staying at the Fairmont, there are plenty of dining choices there.

For lodging you could choose either the historic Fairmont Banff Springs or centrally located comfortable Moose Hotel. There are a lot of other lodging options in town as well.

Day 2

For breakfast, check out of one of the very good coffee shops or bakeries including Bluebird, Wild Flour, Evelyn’s, Good Earth, Whitebark, or Stock (in the Fairmont).

Time to head north into the heart of the Canadian Rockies. Drive along the Bow River Parkway – a slower but more scenic alternative to the highway to Lake Louise. It gives a much better chance to see wildlife and it is not far to your first stop – the Johnson Canyon hike (28 minutes from Banff via Bow Valley Parkway). This is a beautiful hike to a couple of waterfalls along a canyon – with parts of the trail literally built into the canyon wall.

Johnson Canyon

From here continue north to the Lake Louise gondola and scenic walk (36 minutes from Johnson Canyon via Bow Valley Parkway). Take the gondola up and watch for wildlife as you climb (the lower part of the mountain is a wildlife area and you can often see bears). At the top of the lift are several trails with spectacular views back over the valley to Lake Louise and the high peaks and glaciers.

View from Lake Louise Gondola walk

From here it’s a quick drive to Lake Louise (although you’ll be back tomorrow, it’s hard to get enough of the scenery). Dinner tonight – could be grilling along Baker creek if so inclined, eating at Walliser Stube (at the Fairmont) or Tooloulou’s.

Lake Louise

Then head back to lodging at Baker Creek Lodge (night 1/2) or if you decided to spring for it, the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise.

Day 3

Today is a big hiking day – not too intense, but allow a half day. Grab coffee or something to snack on and take with you at Trailhead Cafe. You’ll start by walking to the head of Lake Louise (starting at the Lake Louise Chateau) and the gradually climb through spectacular alpine scenery to the Six Glaciers Tea House – where – you guessed it – there’s a view of beautiful mountain scenery and six glaciers. This is a classic adventure and people have been taking this hike for nearly a hundred years. If you’re an avid hiker you can actually continue this hike if you want along the Lake Agnes trail to the “big beehive” for an incredible view of Lake Louise or climb Devil’s Thumb.

Near the Teahouse
Six Glacier basin
The teahouse

From here, return the way you came to the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise and grab drinks on the terrace at the Lakeview Lounge.

Lake Louise Chateau looking back from from head of Lake Louise

There is another, less dramatically situated, but shorter to reach teahouse at Agnes Lake and the truly inspired can make a longer day of it by doing the “teahouse challenge” and visiting both.

From here it’s a short drive to the nearby and spectacular Moraine Lake. If you end up with extra time, or an extra day, consider Consolation Lakes Trail for a stunning hike.

Moraine Lake

Dinner options are the same as last night.

Day 4

Today you are in for what many feel is the most beautiful mountain drive in the world. We cannot disagree. The Icefields parkway drive is only 144 miles and the road is fast and good. Google maps says you can make the trip in less than 3 hours – but plan for all day with stops.

Start your Gypsy App as you leave Lake Louise.

21 miles north of Lake Louise you come to the spectacularly colored Bow Lake and views of Crowfoot Glacier. Just a few miles after that you reach Bow summit. Be sure to park here and take the short walk to the view over Peyto lake with it’s perfect turquoise color.

Peyto Lake

Continue north stopping at Mistaya canyon and Sunwapta falls, but mostly just enjoying the spectacular drive.

Along the Icefields Parkway
Along the Icefields Parkway looking up at the massive Columbia Icefield

At mile 82 from Lake Louise you reach the Athabasca Glacier / Icefields center where you can get a ticket for a 6 wheel glacier “snowcoach” (special bus) with 10 foot tires that will drive you up and onto the glacier.  From here you climb out and walk around. The best part of this is the view up to the amazing and enormous (125 square mile, up to 1000 foot deep)  Columbia icefield which sits on top of the mountains. The Athabasca Glacier coming off of it is one of 6 “toes” of this massive ice sheet.

“Snowcoach”
Athabasca Glacier looking up at Columbia Icefield

After your icefield adventure continue north. Athabasca falls is the next notable stop – the falls are not extremely high but there is a massive amount of water pouring through.

Finally, arrive at Jasper. The Alpine Village – a collection of cabins in a meadow near the river is a great spot, and you might get lucky (like we did) when a herd of Elk wandered through the cabins at night.

For dinner you can head into Jasper village and eat at Syrah’s, Jasper Brewing company, Tekerra, or cook at your cabin.

Note Jasper is a “dark sky preserve” – be sure and get out and look at the stars after dark.

Day 5

Today head out to Maligne Lake (47 minute drive) for a lovely 90 minute boat cruise. The whole cruise is very scenic but the highlight is at the end where you have a view of Spirit Island, one of the most photographed locations in Canada.

Spirit Island, Maligne Lake

Heading back be sure and take the loop trails and four bridges across Maligne Canyon, a 150 foot deep slot canyon formed in the limestone.

If you still have energy, check out Jasper National Park. With tons of hiking options, you can choose one. You can also opt to take the Sky Tram if the weather is nice.

Tonight eat at Syrah’s, Jasper Brewing company, Tekerra, or cook at your cabin and stay at same place as last night.

Day 6

Today you get a redo of the Icefields Parkway. It will probably go a lot faster as you will have done the stops on the way up.

Just before getting to Lake Louise you will turn right (west) on Highway 1 and enter British Columbia and Yoho National Park. Look for the turn for Takakkaw Falls, the second largest waterfall in Canada. It will take you about three hours to get here from Jasper if you drive straight through. Wind up the narrow mountain road to the parking area for the spectacular falls.

Takakkaw Falls

Head back down the road, turn right back on Highway 1, and drive to the Emerald Lake turn off. Here’s where you’ll stay (and eat). Get settled into your room then head off for a 3 mile loop around the lake. If you have time you can also rent canoe for a paddle.

Emerald Lake
Emerald Lake

Have a great dinner at the Emerald lake lodge, where you’ll also spend the night.

Day 7

Today is an easy day after the driving of the last few days. From Emerald Lake Lodge, it’s only just over an hour back to Banff. If you want another hike the one at Sunshine Meadows ski area offers a nice gondola ride then a walk with views. Alternatively you may want to head back to the hot springs.

Grab drinks at Banff Avenue Brewery or Park Distillery, and then dinner at The Bison, Grizzly House, or Chuck’s Steakhouse. Stay at Moose Hotel.

Day 8

Unfortunately, it’s time to leave the Rockies. Take the easy drive to Calgary airport and grab your flight home (1 h 30m).

You might also be interested in