Balkan Highlights – Croatia, Slovenia, Bosnia-Herzegovina

Bosnia-Herzegovina | Croatia | Slovenia

Balkan Highlights – Croatia, Slovenia, Bosnia-Herzegovina

This two-week trip will include the highlights of the Balkans and take you through Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Montenegro. While this trip doesn’t touch every single area of each country, it gives you a nice overview of major sites, history, and food. Each country has a very unique feel and we try to highlight that. This trip requires a car so be prepared to rent one. If you have more time and are flying Turkish Airlines, you might want to take advantage of the optional Istanbul layover and combine this trip with our Day in Istanbul or Three Days in Istanbul.

Length: 10 Days

Transportation: This is a car based trip. We recommend looking at holidayauto.com

Best Guide Book: Rick Steve’s Croatia and Slovenia (it includes a section on Bosnia-Herzegovina)

Movies: Welcome to Sarajevo, No Man’s Land

Day 1 – Lake Bled

Day 2 – Julian Alps

Day 3 – Ljubljana

Day 4 – Skocjan Caves, Lipica Farm, and Rovinj

Day 5 – Istrian Hill Towns

  • Drive to Motovun and wander the town (1h drive)
  • Drive to Livade (9m drive)
  • Enjoy a truffle filled lunch at Konoba Dolina in Gradinje
  • Drive to Zavrsje, a very cool “ghost town” (25m drive)
    • note, this is a drive along gravel
  • Drive to Groznjan and wander the town (15m drive) 
  • Drive back towards Motovun (25m drive)
  • Wine taste at Vina Fakin and Tomaz near Motovun
  • Drive back to Rovinj (1h drive) 
  • Have dinner along the marina
  • Lodging – same place, (night 2/2)

Day 6 – Rovinj and Opatija

Day 7 – Plitvice National Park

  • Drive to Plitvice National Park / Lakes (2h37m drive)
  • Hike the lakes (approx 4 hours)
  • Grab dinner, we had a decent experience at Restoran Degenja 
  • Lodging – House Tina (night 1/1)

Day 8 – Split

  • Drive to Split (2h44m drive)
  • Lunch in Split
  • Split walking tour
  • 4pm catamaran to Hvar (park behind the bus station, and don’t listen to anyone trying to “sell” you parking)
  • Dinner at Kod Kapetana
  • Lodging – Apartments Biba (night 1/3)

Day 9 – Hvar and Pakleni Islands

Day 10 – Hvar

  • Make your way to the Old Town square and grab breakfast at a bakery
  • Bus/private tour of Hvar with guide (see details below): Old Town Hvar, Hvar Fortress, Brusije village and lavender fields, Velo Grablje, Stari Grad, Vrboska, Jelsa
  • Lunch at Palaca Paladini
  • Pastry stop at Nonica
  • Shop and wander the waterfront
  • Dinner in apartment or out at a waterfront restaurant
  • Lodging – same place, (night 3/3)

Day 11 – Mostar and Sarajevo

Day 12 – Sarajevo

Day 13 – Dubrovnik

  • Drive from Sarajevo to Dubrovnik (4h12m drive)
    • Parking can be challenging but there is an area near the gate into the Old Town. Do NOT use the machine, make your way immediately to the parking office and negotiate a daily rate unless you want to pay a fortune. 
  • Afternoon Walking tour Dubrovnik
  • Dinner at Restaurant Kopan
  • After dinner stroll through Old Town Dubrovnik’s winding streets
  • Malvasija Wine Bar
  • Lodging – Villa Ragusa, Apartments Pavisa or Apartment Plaza (night 1/3)

Day 14 – Dubrovnik

Day 15 – Montenegro

  • Day tour drive through Montenegro:
    • Cavtat (33m drive): waterfront walk, mausoleum
    • After Kamenari (1h2m drive from Cavtat) stop to see the Verige Straight
    • Perast (21m drive from Kamenari): venetian architecture, church, lunch at Restaurant Conte
    • Boat to Our Lady of the Rocks and visit the church
    • Kotor (15m from Perast): Old town, town wall hike
    • Old Winery for Montenegrin wines
    • Dinner at Cesarica or Galion
  • Drive back to Dubrovnik (consider making the trip shorter with the Lepetani-Kamenari Ferry) (21m drive to ferry in Lepetani + 1h14m drive to Dubrovnik)
  • Lodging – same place, (night 3/3)

Day 16 – Lokrum Island to Zagreb

Day 17 – Zagreb

  • Zagreb day tour–self guided or can opt for a guide
    • Jelačić Square, Zagreb’s main square with a statue of Josip Jelačić
    • Trg Petra Preradovića flower market and cafes
    • Funicular (shortest in the world) to Gradec for views
    • Walk the Strossmayer Promenade
    • Church of St. Catherine
    • City Parliament
    • St. Mark’s Square and Church of St. Mark
    • Ban’s Palace
    • Gradec’s Stone Gate
    • Tkalčićeva street
    • Zagreb’s Cathedral
  • Take a coffee break at one of Zagreb’s many outdoor cafes
  • Museum of Broken Relationships 
  • Naïve art museum
  • Grab dinner, we enjoyed Pivnica Medvedgrad
  • Lodging – same place, (night 2/3)

Day 18 – Fly Home

  • Fly home

Detailed Itinerary 

Day 1 – Lake Bled

Welcome to the Balkans! Fly into Zagreb (knowing your trip will end in Croatia) and land early. We felt well-rested thanks to our overnight in a hotel in Istanbul; Turkish Air had a deal that allowed us a free night in a hotel on our way to Zagreb that we happily took them up on. Pick up your rental car, we used Avant Car which we booked through Holiday Autos, and begin the 2 hour easy drive to Lake Bled. Once you arrive it will probably be too early to check into your accommodation so park in the easy short term area that’s just above the commercial center (it’s easy to find and a tiny town so anywhere you see is a good bet). Opt for lunch out at the Park Restaurant and Cafe at the Hotel Park,a charming spot sitting over the lake. You can sit on the terrace and enjoy reasonably priced fare, and make sure to finish it off with the restaurant’s and region’s famous creme cake, kremna rezina.

After lunch begin your walk around the lake. The walk in total is about 3.5 miles and follows a well marked flat path. Along the way you’ll see many stunning and picturesque views of the blue water and tiny island marked with a church, but you will also pass beautiful villas strewn along the lake. About 1/2 way around you will come to the Rowing Center Bled. Follow a path down to the water towards the famous pletna boats. Board one of the hand-built wooden flat-bottomed vessels and allow the experienced oarsman to take you to the island. Once there you have about 30 minutes to explore before you must meet your oarsman for the return trip.

Bled Island, the iconic symbol of Lake Bled, features a small church at the top of 99 steps. Climb to the top of the island and enter the church, which its current rendition dating from the Baroque period. Once inside ring the rope for the bell in the middle of the aisle before the alter. Supposedly if you can get it to ring 3 times with one pull your wishes will come true. Enjoy the gothic frescoes on both sides of the alter and if you’re feeling adventurous, climb the 91 steps up the bell tower, though the views of the lake are better from outside. If you have a bit more time grab a potica, a local nut-roll cake at the Poticnica cafe. Return to the mainland by boat.

Continue your way around the lake and you will pass a gate leading up to Tito’s garden and Tito’s Vila Bled, a villa that was the summer residence of the Yugoslav royal family. It is now a hotel and restaurant at which you can treat yourself with a cup of coffee or cake (if you aren’t yet tired of sweets), or they let us poke inside without purchasing anything. Make sure to go upstairs from the lobby to see the Socialist Realist wall murals.

Now it’s time to check into your hotel for the next 2 nights. We had a great experience at Guesthouse Kolinska. Consider making your way to the supermarket Mercator, a grocery store that sells picnic fare and decent wine. Enjoy a pre-dinner drink on your balcony before wandering down to dinner.

There are many restaurants in Lake Bled within walking distance of any hotel (it’s a small town). We ate at Gostilna Union Bled which was a decent option. They had a cozy interior and served up decent portions of goulash, Balkan grilled meats, and fish. Other options to consider include Mayer Penzion (very convenient if you’re staying there), or Gostilna Pri Planincu.

Lake Bled

Day 2 – Julian Alps

This will be a long day so hopefully you got a good night’s sleep. Wake up early and make your way to Bled Castle (opens at 08:00). While probably most interesting for its unparalleled views of the lake, the castle itself has been in its current location since 1004 and has a marginally interesting history exhibit.

Julian Alps

After Bled Castle, drive 2.5 miles out of town and along the route for the day to Vintgar Gorge. This fairly easy walk along the spectacular gorge is well worth the stop before you spend the rest of your day in the car. After you purchase tickets make your way along the boardwalk trail and cross bridges over spectacular waterfalls. All in all the walk is about 2 miles round trip and takes about an hour with plenty of stops for pictures.

Vintgar Gorge

Now you’re ready to head to the Julian Alps where you’ll experience the highest pass in Slovenia, amazing mountain scenery, alpine villages, and WWI history points. Grab a map in a gas station or the TI in Bled–you’ll want one that points out things to see and stops along the way. Start by putting Vrsic Pass in you GPS.

First you will climb the Vrsic Pass. From Lake Bled you will climb 24 hairpin turns up the mountain. After switchback #8 (they’re labeled) park your car and walk up to the Russian Chapel. The road was built during WWI by Russian prisoners of war and many died in horrible conditions. In 1916 this chapel was built in this location after an avalanche killed many of the workers. After switchback #24 you reach the summit of 5,285 feet. Park your car and take in the views. Wander to the hut for a snack or drink on its terrace or sit on the hill and enjoy your picnic lunch. If you want a hike, this is a great place for it–follow signs to the Postarski Dom (20 minutes uphill) and cross the ruins of a cable-car line used during WWI. Plug Trenta into your GPS.

Now it’s time to descend 26 more switchbacks. At switchback #29 the road marked Izvir Soce leads to the source of the Soca River. It’s a nice place to stretch your legs. You’ll wind along the Soca River in the Soca River Valley, the area of the Soca Front during WWI. This is the area Ernest Hemingway worked during the War. After switchback #50 you can celebrate the end of the harrowing part of the drive. Directly beyond the town of Trenta is a suspension bridge. This is a nice place to pull over and cross the bridge taking in the silty blue river below. Put Bovec into your GPS.

Drive 5 more miles to Soca and take a stop at the Church of St Joseph. During WWII an artist hiding in the mountains painted the church with patriotic frescos. Look at the ceiling with St. Michael and three Yugoslavian enemies at his feet (eagle = Germany, wolf = Italy, snake = Japan). On the Stations of the Cross are the faces of Yugoslavian enemies Hitler and Mussolini.

The next stop is at a lot marked Velika Korita Soce. This area of the Soca Valley is considered the most impressive. Climb out onto the suspension bridge and take in the views. About 5 miles past Soca is a fork in the road. Take a couple mile detour towards Trbiz/Tarvisio and see the WWI Kluze Fort, used in WWI by Austrians to defend the area from Italians.

Continue on to Bovec, now famous for whitewater activities. Not worth the stop, you now have two options: put Lake Bled in your GPS and continue back or continue on to Kobarid. We opted for the first (we felt like we’d had enough driving for 1 day). Kobabrid is tiny but has some WWI sites, an Italian mausoleum, and a highly rated Kobarid Museum that details the WWI experience on the Soca Front. You can also opt for a hike to the Great Kozjak Waterfall. Once in Kobarid you’ll head back to Lake Bled.

You’ll be tired when you return to Lake Bled. Head to Oštarija Peglez’n, a spirited restaurant along the southern edge of the lake. Grab a glass of wine or a beer on their terrace if it’s early for dinner and take in more views of the lake. Head inside for a good dinner of local Slovenian specialties.

Julian Alps

Day 3 – Ljubljana

Begin your day by driving to the village of Radovljica (25m drive). Radovljica is a small town with a very cute traffic-free Old Town. Wander around the Old Town (it only takes 20 minutes or so) and then stop at the Apicultural Museum. Once you’re done with the museum continue your drive onto Ljubljana (36m drive). Grab lunch at one of the charming cafes set along the river.

Meet for free walking tour (they leave at 11am or 3pm) at the stairs of the pink church in Prešeren Square. The tour includes either a fun boat ride through one of Ljubljana’s canals or a ticket up to the castle via funicular. You can pick either and once the tour is done, finish with the other on your own. Guided 1 hour boat cruises leave from the Triple Bridge and are well-worth it. Grab an ice cream at one of Ljubljana’s famous gelato shops, Rustika, Gelateria Romantika, or Cacao.

If you want a nice view of Ljubljana and the countryside take the funicular up to Ljubljana Castle. The castle was rebuilt in the 40s and renovated in the 70s and lacks the charm we hoped for, but does present great views. It hosts some restaurants if you want to dine scenically.

Head back down and if you haven’t already, check into your lodging. We liked the Apartments Meščanka which were in a fantastic location. Grab dinner tonight at Klobasarna and enjoy local Carniolan sausages.

After dinner grab a drink at Slovenska Hisa (right next to the apartment) or at Pritličje (right around the corner).

Ljubljana

Day 4 – Skocjan Caves, Lipica Farm, and Rovinj

Have breakfast in Ljubljana and make your way to the Riverside Market at the Triple Bridge and explore stalls in the colonnade, market hall, and two city squares, snacking and purchasing picnic stuff along the way.

Bid Ljubljana adieu and drive to the Lipica Stud Farm (1h drive). Enjoy your tour of the farm, watch the beautiful horses train, or catch a show. Enjoy a picnic lunch with a scenic view at their picnic tables.

Next drive 10 minutes to the Škocjan Caves. Enjoy the guided tour of some of the most impressive caves you will ever see. Cross a bridge 150 feet above rushing water below and imagine the earliest explorers into these caves.

Finally drive to your final destination of Rovinj (1h30m drive). Check into your lodging-we liked Vila Kristina. Wander down to the Marina to take in views of historic Rovinj on the hill. Eat at Restoran Lovor for some truly incredible Croatian fare. If you’re still wide-awake check out Piassa Granda with a good selection of Croatian wine.

Lipica Stud Farm

Day 5 – Istrian Hill Towns

Today is your chance to explore the Istrian hill towns. Get a mid-morning start and after a leisurely breakfast begin by driving to Motovun (1h drive). Motovun is situated on the top of a hill among vinyards. It’s Old Town boasts a colorful church and a rampart walk that gives good views of the Istrian region. Enjoy wandering the streets and through the artisan shops.

Next drive through Livade, a small town situated near truffle forests and make your way down a 5 minute gravel road to Gradinje where one of the most amazing restaurants ever exists: Konoba Doblina. Eat the most incredible, least expensive truffle dishes in great quantities before continuing your drive to Zavrsje. In Zavrsje park and explore this nearly uninhabited hill town (abandoned after WWII) where plants crawl along the floor and up the interior walls of crumbling, abandoned buildings. Rather than a town in disarray it feels oddly magical.

Finish your day by driving back towards Groznjan and doing some wine tasting. We tasted at Vina Fakin, which was a great, albeit unique, experience. If one spot wasn’t enough, you can stop by Tomaz as well that had a nice, though we didn’t think as great, selection.

After you finish wine tasting make your way back to Rovinj (1h drive). Once in Rovinj find somewhere nice for dinner on the marina (or do what we did and eat at Restoran Lovor again).

Istrian Hill Towns

Day 6 – Rovinj and Opatija

Enjoy a morning walking tour of Rovinj and take in all of the sites of the old town from the market to rambling streets to Church of St. Euphemia. After your morning tour continue onto Pula (42m drive).

Rovinj

Pula is Istria’s biggest city with the wonderful attraction of one of the best preserved Roman amphitheaters in the world. Definitely worth a stop on your travels.

Next drive to Opatija and get lunch. Good luck parking, hopefully your hotel has some suggestions. Enjoy wandering this ritzy beach town. At one point in history this was the place to be if you were elite and from the Hapsburg Empire or Russia. The blend of neoclassical and art nouveau architecture is quite impressive. Grab dinner at your hotel or enjoy a Vienna-style coffee house.

Check into your hotel. Consider Amadria Park Hotel Agava or Hotel Gardenija.

Day 7 – Plitvice National Park

Drive to Plitvice National Park (2h37m drive). Tour these magnificent lakes on a 1/2 day hike. Make sure to take the boat ride to the upper lakes.

Eating options in this area are limited, so don’t expect anything spectacular. We ate at Restoran Degenja which was on the way to our lodging and offered fairly decent pizza among other options.

Check into your lodging. We stayed at House Tina which was decently nice, well-located, and cheaper than staying in the park.

Day 8 – Split to Hvar

Begin your day by driving to Split (2h44m drive). After the unending natural beauty of Plitvice, Split can feel like a disappointment. As a port city, Split is dirty, urban, and touristy to a point of heckling. It’s worth a visit for the impressive Old Town and Diocletian’s Palace, but in our opinion, not worth an overnight stay.

Upon your arrival park your car near the catamaran area. Park behind the bus station and don’t listen to anyone trying to “sell” you parking. The ONLY place to pay is inside the building which houses the information for cruises to other islands – ignore every other option.

Grab lunch on the Riva, Split’s seaside promenade. If you have extra time before you tour you can consider visiting the Mestrovic Gallery, Split’s best art museum.

Meet your tour guide for a Split walking tour and enjoy the history of the Old Town and Diocletian’s Palace. After your tour, grab a drink and snack at one of the charming outdoor cafes peppering the Old Town. Pop into the Diocletian’s Cellars and Cathedral of St. Dominus if you have additional time.

Catch a 4pm catamaran to Hvar (catamaran schedule). Enjoy this pleasant boat ride to the island.

Once on Hvar either walk 10 minutes uphill or arrange through your lodging for a taxi to transport you and your luggage. We thoroughly enjoyed our stay at Apartments Biba (night 1/3). 

Wander back down to the pier for dinner on the waterfront at Kod Kapetana.

Hvar port

Day 9 – Hvar and Pakleni islands

In the morning find your boat for the day to explore the Pakleni Islands. We used a local guy recommended by our AirBnB which turned out to be a great deal, but everywhere you look places are offering boat taxis or try Hvar Boats. The driver should take you around to a few islands, let you enjoy lunch on one of them, before bringing you back to Hvar in the afternoon.

We enjoyed exploring the island of Jerolim with its olive trees, beautiful beaches, and funky artwork. We hit a few more islands on our way to Palmizana (the Vlaka side) where we swam and grabbed cocktails at Laganini Lounge Bar and Fish House. Next head to Bacchus Palmižana and try Croatia’s famous salt-baked fish. Take a nice hike through forest to the other side of the island offering more pristine beaches. Cruise around some more islands or head back to Hvar.

Once in Hvar you can wander through the shops in the town, grab some famous lavender gelato, and have some pre-dinner drinks at Pršuta 3 Wine Bar. Sit along a tiny cobblestone street while the waiter recommends flights of Croatian wine.

Head back to your hotel and stop by the grocery store (we liked Market Zatsup) for some picnic supplies for dinner, and enjoy them on your balcony.

Hvar Port

Day 10 – Hvar

Today you will explore the island of Hvar. We went through a recommendation of our AirBnB host and it turned out to be really fantastic, email Šime Fio (sime.fio@gmail.com) who’s wife Tania is a certified local guide. She did an amazing job taking us on an all day tour of the island of Hvar and explaining the history and culture. You could also try Secret Hvar or Tours by Locals.

Begin in Old Town Hvar on foot and learn about the town history and landmarks including St. Stephen’s Square, Cathedral of St. Stephen, and the Franciscan Monastery. After, get in your tour vehicle and visit Hvar Fortress above the Old Town and take in the views. Next continue towards Brusije village and the lavender fields. Try and stop in the village of Velo Grablje to get a feel of island life on Hvar and then make your way to Stari Grad and a tour of the town. Next visit Vrboska, the village known as “Hvar Venice” and Jelsa. The tour takes a little over 1/2 the day.

Consider grabbing lunch in Stari Grad or Jelsa if you’re feeling hungry or have lunch back in Hvar at Palaca Paladini.

Now’s you’re chance to poke around the cool shops of Hvar. Keep a look out for their lavender and olive wood products. Make your way to Nonica for a amazing sweet snack. Wander along the marina from one side of town to ever and take in a lovely sunset.

If you had a late lunch, you may not be that hungry and you can opt for a picnic on your balcony again. Or try one of the many restaurants located along the waterfront boasting scenic views and fresh seafood.

Hvar

Day 11 – Mostar and Sarajevo

Take a catamaran from Hvar (return trip from the way you came). Pick up the car you left in the parking lot of the dock and drive to Mostar (2h11m drive). You’ll come over a mountain pass to the valley of the Neretva River. Be prepared, Mostar, located in Bosnia-Hertzegovania is a very different experience from beachy Croatia. It is still very much recovering from the war which is evidenced by ugly Soviet Bloc architecture riddled with bullet holes and buildings partially bombed out everywhere. While Tito united Yugoslavia, Mostar’s residents of Croatians, Serbians, and Bosniaks intermingled cultures, but in the 1990s Mostar experienced a horrible war between those same groups. The city still feels like a blend of European and Middle Eastern culture.

Mostar

Opt to do a self-guided walking tour or hire a local guide. Start by parking in downtown Mostar (we had to give money to a random guy in the parking lot, but it ended up being a legitimate place to park). Start by visiting the Franciscan Church of Saints Peter and Paul (tallest spire in Mostar). Walk the Bulevar (the original modern main drag of Mostar and site of many of the battles in the 90s). Damage from the war is still very evident on this main street with craters in the sidewalks and shelled and bombed out sides of buildings. Head to the city’s Old Town. Notice the crooked Bridge which was built before the Old Bridge. The original was lost to floods and the current is a reconstruction. Make your way to the Old Bridge (Stari Most) that spans the Neretva River and had stood for more than 400 years until the recent war. It’s considered a point where East meets West. Watch locals jumping off the bridge  to wild applause.

Once you cross the bridge make your way to Coppersmiths’ Street (Kujundziluk) which is a modern day bazaar selling a blend of local arts and crafts and junky souvenirs.

Visit the Koski Mehmet-Pasha Mosque dating from the 17th century and built on a cliffside for a feel of the Bosniak/Muslim influence on Mostar.

If you have more time, consider a visit to Biscevic Turkish House, a traditional Turkish-style home that once was found throughout Mostar. It dates from the 1600s and is a nice demonstration of a typical Mostar house from that time.

Get lunch before leaving Mostar at Restoran Hindin Han, which had a beautiful terrace overlooking the river with views of the Old Bridge.

Leave Mostar and drive to Sarajevo (2h4m drive). Check into you lodgings. We liked Ada Hotel with its free parking and great included breakfast.

Walk 5 minutes downhill towards Old Town to get your bearings. If you want, consider seeing the City History Museum. Stop by the Sarajevo 1878-1918 Museum and Archduke Franz Ferdinand Assassination site.

For dinner make your way to Restaurant Kibe Mahala. It’s on the pricier side but well-worth it for one of your nights in Sarajevo. Other great options include Luka, Noovi, Pivnica HS, Karuzo Restaurant, or Mala Kuhinja. Or have dinner at a restaurant on charming Prote Bakovica street at a place like Dženita or Pod Lipom.

Day 12 – Sarajevo

After breakfast enjoy a half day tour of Sarajevo. Sarajevo is a beautiful city (and one of my favorite places I’ve ever been) with incredible culture and a recent devastating history. We cannot recommend our tour guide Jadranka Suster enough. Let her take you first outside of Sarajevo as you start with a viewpoint of the city at the White Bastion fortress.

Sarajevo

Next, visit the Roman Bridge, Vrelo Bosnewith with the spring the Bosnia river, and Illidza Spa. Make your way to the War Tunnel Museum and explore it. Next head tow the Trebevic mountain which hosts the old Olympic Bobsled course. Walk down the the old sled route.

Olympic bobsled course near Sarajevo

The tour then proceeds to Old Town Sarajevo. Visit City Hall, the Eastern-influenced part of town with handicrafts, copper smiths (Kazandziluk street), silver and goldsmiths street, carpet street, and Bezistan (the covered market place). Have lunch at the recommended Buregdzinica Sac, enjoying Burek (Bosnian Pies).

Make your way to the Old Orthodox church, Mosque of Gazi Husref Bey, Madrasah (Muslim secondary school), Jewish museum, place of the Sarajevo assassination, and the Latin Bridge. As I said, she covers it all.

Grab an afternoon ice cream at Slasticarna Egipat (evidently world famous) on Ferhadija Street.

In the afternoon, go into any of the sites you wish to including the Old Serbian Orthodox Church (16th century), Gazi Husrev-Bey Mosque (Sarajevo’s most important mosque, the minaret was used for target practice during the Bosnian War), Old Synagogue and Bosnian Jewish Museum or any number of museums. Have a Bosnian coffee (aka Turkish coffee if you’re anywhere outside Bosnia) at one of the many outdoor cafes.

That night make your way across the river to Pivnica HS for dinner or pick an option not selected the night before. After dinner, have a cup of tea at Cajdzinica Dzirlo-Tea House or after dinner drinks at Barhana Restaurant and Grapperia.

Sarajevo

Day 13 – Dubrovnik

You have a long drive today from Sarajevo to Dubrovnik (4h12m drive) with pretty much no where to stop. You’ll pass some towns that still look pretty war-torn and where no one speaks any English. Note, if you really need a bathroom break and you’re desperate, be careful of landmines off the road in Bosnia (seriously). When you arrive in Dubrovnik find parking. There is a good option directly outside of the Buza Gate. But DO NOT use the parking machine. Make your way immediately to the parking office and negotiate a daily rate (which they have) unless you want to pay a fortune when you finally move your car. You can’t negotiate the rate once you’ve been parked a day or two.

Check into your lodging. We stayed in one of the worst places we’ve ever stayed so we are not recommending it. It looks like the posting on AirBnB disappeared but if you happen upon a Nobleman’s Villa know that you are renting out a hostel (along with lockers and metal bunkbeds, we had backpackers show up at 8am wanting to leave their things the day we left). Unless you like hostels, because it has a 9.1 average on hostel bookers. It’s worth it to stay in Old Town so consider Villa Ragusa, Apartments Pavisa or Apartment Plaza (night 1/3). 

Meet your guide near the main entrance gate for an afternoon walking tour. You’ll be pressed for space with hundreds of tourists pouring into the town every minute, so a guide is extremely helpful. Ours was able to walk us around the entire town and explain the history well. It’s a very nice introduction to Dubrovnik.

Have dinner at Restaurant Kopan (try the rooster) in the square near St.Ignatius Church and watch as the streets slowly empty of people returning to their tour buses or cruise ships. Now the city is yours.

Meander through Dubrovnik. Climb the stairs up walls that empty into bars perched on the outside of the wall. Enjoy the artisan shops. Marvel at the winding cobbled streets and old architecture. When you’ve had your fill, make your way to Malvasija Wine Bar for some great Croatian wine tasting/a nightcap.

Dubrovnik

Day 14 – Dubrovnik

Begin your morning early by grabbing breakfast at one of the many bakeries or restaurants scattered within the walls. Try and walk theDubrovnik City Walls early (8am is when they open) before cruise ships or tour buses arrive for the day. The walk is a little over a mile and takes a few hours with plenty of time to stop and enjoy the view and take pictures.

Though the best part of Dubrovnik are the city walls and simply strolling the Stadum, it has some fairly interesting museums as well. If you plan on seeing multiple museums, purchase the Dubrovnik card which saves you a lot of money in doing so. You can buy it at the TI. The best museums were the Franciscan Monastery Museum, Rector’s Palace, Dominican Monastery Museum, and Cathedral. The Franciscan Monastery Museum which was where monks lived in the Middle Ages and served as pharmacists for the community. Now there is a cloister and old pharmacy left to visit. The Rector’s Palace was where the Rector, Dubrovnik’s equivalent to Venice’s Doge, used to live. The Palace was plundered twice and is fairly empty besides items donated by local aristocrats. It does offer an impressive courtyard. The Dominican Monastery Museum has many of Dubrovnik’s art pieces, including one by Titian, and a pretty inside cloister. The Cathedral is where Dubrovnik’s original 12th century cathedral stood, built with funds from Richard the Lionheart. The current version is from the 18th century after an earthquake destroyed the original in the 17th.

Have lunch between museums at Lady Pi-Pi. Don’t forget to take a good look at the statue the restaurant is named for and enjoy a rooftop view of Dubrovnik while enjoying cooked-in-front-of you dishes.

Late in the afternoon take time to shop or from Rudjera Boškovića follow a sign that says “Cold Drinks” through a hole in the city wall to a bar perched precariously on the cliff over the Adriatic, Buža II. Enjoy watching the swimmers as the sun goes downs over the sea.

For dinner, go to Dalmatino for a special experience. The restaurant creates amazing traditional Dalmatian fare with a twist. If you’re going to splurge in Dubrovnik, this is the place.

After dinner return to your apartment or have a nightcap at Malvasija Wine Bar again, or try another wine bar, D’Vino.

Stay in the same place you did the night before (night 2/3).

Dubrovnik

Day 15 – Montenegro

Explore Montenegro in a one day drive along the Bay of Kotor. Begin by driving from Dubrovnik towards the border. Then drive around the Bay of Cavtat.

Stop in Cavtat (33m drive), a resort town near the Montenegro border. Get out and stretch your legs (you have a lot of driving ahead of you). Walk along the waterfront.If you’re ready for coffee here’s a nice place to grab one. Check out the Racic Family Mausoleum created by Croatia’s famous sculptor Ivan Mestrovic.

Pass by Herceg Novi, the industrial capitol of the Bay of Kotor. Notice the 15th century fortress from you car.

After you pass Kamenari (1h2m drive from Cavtat) with its ferry terminal, you’ll see a stopping point for Verige Straight, the narrowest point of the fjord.

Next come to the town of Morinj (14m drive from Kamenari). This town held a concentration camp for Croat prisoners during the 1991-92 siege of Dubrovnik.

Next comes the town of Risan (14m drive from Morinj) which houses the remains of the Illyrian Queen Teuta’s castle and 2nd century AD Roman mosaics in the Villa Urbana.

Stop in Perast (8m drive from Risan). Get out of your car and enjoy a walk through this pretty town housing beautiful venetian architecture from the 17th-18th century. Take a peek at it’s church, St. Nicholas. Consider lunch at Restaurant Conte looking out to the bay and look for the islands St. George and Our Lady of the Rocks. Visit Our Lady of the Rocks by quick boat ride. It houses a 17th century Baroque Church with an icon of the Virgin Mary.

Continue driving around the fjord and pass the Ljuta River, which locals call the shortest river in the world.

Finally arrive in Kotor (15m drive from Perast), a beautiful Adriatic town with a UNESCO protected Old Town. Get ready to get lost in its maze-like streets. Take in the main square against the waterfront, Cathedral of St. Tryphon, St. Luke’s Square hosting two Serbian Orthodox Churches. If you want some exercise climb, then hike the Town Walls (1.5 hours approx and 1355 steps…). Make your way to the Church of Our Lady of Health with its incredible views over the Bay. Either go back down to the Old Town or continue climbing up to the Fortress of St. John.

Stop by Old Winery to try some Montenegrin wines, then grab dinner. Consider family-run Cesarica for its delicious fish (its owned by a fisherman) or Galion with its amazing views of the city and bay.

Head back to Dubrovnik via the Lepetani-Kamenari Ferry shortcut. Drive to Lepetani (21m drive), take your car on the ferry, then from Kamenari drive to Dubrovnik (1h14m drive).

Stay in the same place you did the night before (night 2/3).

Day 16 – Lokrum Island

Take a quick ferry from Dubrovnik to Lokrum Island (20 minute ride) right off the Old Town of Dubrovnik. This island is an ideal place to swim and one which the locals prefer because of the lack of tourists. There are many rocky beaches with easy access to the water from ladders stretching down from the rocks. It’s probably a good idea to wear water shoes and be careful of stepping on anemones. Also be wary of swimming and climbing out on a nude beach. The nudists are not accepting of those that wear suits and will make you get back into the water and swim back the way you came.

After enjoying the water hike around one of the many paths that cross the island through thick trees. On the island there is a pink visitors center with info and a map. On the opposite side of the island from where you arrived is a nice area with access to the sea and a saltwater “lake” with rocks placed to jump into it. There are cafes offering meals and drinks throughout the island.

When you return to Dubrovnik grab an early dinner at Restaurant Kamenice (look for the blue striped chairs on Market Square).

Take an evening flight to Zagreb (28m drive to the airport from Old Town). Either take a cab or take the Croatia Airlines bus from the airport to the main bus station and then take the tram to within a short one block walk to the Best Western Premier Hotel Astoria (night 1/2).

Day 17 – Zagreb

After breakfast at your hotel, explore the country’s very pretty capitol of Zagreb. Either do a self-guided tour out of a book, which we found quite easy, or opt for a guide, Free Spirit Walking Tour.

Make your way to Jelačić Square, Zagreb’s main square with a statue of Josip Jelačić. Take in Zagreb’s most active square. From there head to Gradec hill along Ilica street. Take in the Octagon shopping gallery and Trg Petra Preradovića square with flower markets and cafes. The make your way to the world’s smallest funicular up to the top of Gradec for its views. Make your way along Strossmayer Promenade to the Church of St. Catherine with its grand Baroque interior. You’re now near Zagreb’s best two museums: Museum of Broken Relationships and Naïve art museum both very worth a stop. Whenever you need a break stop at one of Zagreb’s numerous outdoor cafes and enjoy people watching with your coffee. Once you leave the museums make your way to the city’s yellow Parliament and St. Mark’s Square with the Church of St. Mark and Sabor. Ban’s Palace, today’s office of the Prime Minister is across the square. Then walk from St. Mark’s Square to the cathedral. On the way you can spot Gradec’s original town gate, the Stone Gate. Once you explore the cathedral make your way to Zagreb’s colorful street,Tkalčićeva hosting tons of shops and restaurants.  Grab a coffee, a drink, or dinner on this street. We enjoyed dinner at Pivnica Medvedgrad. Finish your day a the the cathedral which is Zagreb’s most important house of worship. You’re right near Jelačić Square at that point.

Day 18 – Fly Home

Take a cab or bus to the airport and bid the Balkans adieu; fly home.

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