Athens

Greece

Athens is a bustling city where you can walk over thousands of years of history (literally). The highlight is the small ancient core which includes all of the top sites. With limited time you probably won’t venture outside of the Plaka (Old Town), but with more time you’ll have the opportunity to wander other districts. Athens is a great launching point for seeing more of Greece – look at our other itineraries if this is your plan.

Length: 3+ days

Transportation: public

Best guide book: Rick Steves Greece

We recommend you combine this with our Greek Islands or Mainland Greece itinerary to make the most of your vacation!

Day 1

Day 2

Day 3

In Depth Itinerary

Day 1

You’ll likely arrive to Athens by plane (it’s not as trainable as other European cities because of its location). There is one main airport in Athens. There are several options from getting from the airport to your hotel. You can of course catch a certified taxi (available outside Exit 3 of Arrivals Level) or call an Uber from the airport. Just as easy was the metro. Follow signs in the airport, purchase your ticket at a kiosk, and get on the train (Metro Line 3). Most likely you will get off at Syntagma Square which is in the heart of the Plaka and near most hotels. The train takes about 40 minutes and run between every 30 minutes or so (a schedule is posted in the station). There are also 24 hour buses (if you arrive particularly early or late, outside of the 06:30-23:30 time frame of the trains). The easiest one to grab is X95: Airport – Syntagma Square which takes about 60 minutes. The X96: Airport – Piraeus port takes 90 minutes to and from Athens main port. If you want to arrange a ride in advance, George’s taxi service is great.

Of note, in general use a taxi app (iMove or Beat) or Uber to get around if needed. Do not hail a taxi on the street – often they won’t run meters and it will be overpriced.

Depending on what time you arrive, you may want to do less or nothing today, so plan to change the itinerary accordingly. Because we assume you’ll be arriving in the morning, we’ll actually save the Acropolis until tomorrow (to give you a full day of seeing the ancient sites).

You should buy an online ticket in advance, called the Acropolis combo-ticket which covers many of the ancient sites (Acropolis and Theatre of Dionysus, Ancient Agora, Roman Forum, Temple of Olympian Zeus, Library of Hadrian, and Keramikos Cemetery) and is good for 3 days. It’s a better deal than the basic Acropolis ticket if you are actually planning to see multiple things. It also lets you skip the ticket-buying line at the Acropolis. Buy it with a start time of your first day to give you additional time to see the sites.

There are many hotels in Athens. Generally you want to be near the Plaka, Syntagma, and Monastiraki (to make walking to sites easier), though you could consider staying in the lively Psyrri district because it’s still fairly close. NEW Hotel was in a fantastic location and is a great mid-range option. Other good midrange options include Ergon House, The Foundry Suites, Perianth Hotel, Ziller Boutique Hotel, and Achilleas Hotel. Budget options include Hotel Adonis, Belle Epoque Suites, Hotel Kimon, Mosaikon Hostel, Athens Hub Hostel, and Phaedra Hotel. Splurge options include Electra Palace, Hotel Grande Bretagne, The Dolli, and the Academias Hotel. Another note, even in fancy hotels you shouldn’t throw toilet paper in the toilet – use the trash bin provided.

Make your way to your hotel, drop your luggage, and head to the Archeology Museum. This is the world’s best collection of ancient Greek art and is displayed chronologically (7000 BC to AD 500).

Take a break by wandering through the leafy and green National Garden, emerging at the Parliament. The garden was originally planted as the palace garden in 1839 and opened to the public in 1923. In here, you can find ancient columns next to cafes.

The Parliament, originally the palace of King Otto, is where you can watch the changing of the guards (5 minutes to the top of the hour) watching over the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Nearby Syntagma Square is the “Times Square” of Athens and the major transit hub.

Explore the Plaka, visiting the Church of Kapnikarea, a small 11th century Byzantine church, the Cathedral (Mitropolis) which dates the the 19th century and the main church of Athens, and the Church of Agios Eleftherios, a small church with ancient and early Christian artwork in its facade.

Drink in the leafy and flower filled streets of the Plaka, but for a less touristy pre-dinner drink, grab a beer at Barley Cargo or Beer Time or a drink at Odori Vermuteria.

For dinner choose from our Athens Restaurant recommendations.

For post-dinner drinks (or for a light dinner) don’t miss the incredible concoctions at Baba au Rum. I wanted to go back every single night I loved it so much.

If you have a sweet tooth, you can get a traditional takeaway greek pastry dessert at Lukumades, open late.

Around 60 open-air cinemas are scattered around Athens, in parks, on roof terraces, or occupying empty plots between apartment blocks, and there is something to be said for watching a movie under the stars especially on a warm and balmy summer night. Our favourites are Cine Dexameni, built above a Roman aqueduct next door to an old-fashioned ouzeri, Zefyros (Troon 36, Petralona), which screens vintage classics, and Cine Oasis (Pratinou 7, Pangrati) in a lush garden in Pangrati, a lively neighbourhood popular with actors and directors. Cine Thisio, a cult classic since 1935, has the best location of all, right below the Acropolis. 

Day 2

Before you even get into the Acropolis (ticket point) head to Mars Hill, a bare hill set in front of the Acropolis. This offers a classic view of the Acropolis and is where Apostle Paul preached to the Athenians. Be careful, because the stones are very slippery.

The Acropolis is arguably the most important ancient site of the Western World and rises high above the city line of Athens. It is here you can visit the Parthenon, the Erechtheion, Propylaea, and Temple of Athena Nike. Once you finish wandering these, head out via the Theatre of Dionysus to see its ruins.

After you visit the Acropolis walk to the Arch of Hadrian and Temple of Olympian Museum. The arch was the separation point of ancient Athens and new Rome, built by the Roman Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century AD. The Temple of Olympian Zeus is now the sparse remains of the largest temple of ancient Greece, dedicated to Zeus, and completed by Hadrian. You’ll only see 15 of the original 104 Corinthian columns, but it’s a quick stop with the Acropolis combo-ticket.

Make your way back up to the Acropolis Museum and have lunch either in the museum (they have an excellent cafe with views of the Acropolis) or at or in the area of Aposolou Pavlou with a number of outdoor eateries.

The Acropolis museum contains all the artifacts that once lived in the actual Acropolis (hundreds of statues, reliefs, friezes, carvings, etc). While a lot of what used be at the Acropolis site is actually at the British Museum, this can’t-miss museum does a phenomenal job showcasing the rest of it (and there is a lot).

The Roman Forum and Tower of the Winds encompasses the remains of an ancient Roman marketplace. Built after the Romans took over Athens, they built this as a response to the original Greek Agora. The Tower of the Winds is a perfectly intact observatory which depicts the eight winds of Athens.

Close by is the Library of Hadrian, which is an area of Roman ruins that hold what’s left of the Library of Hadrian.

Walk through the Plaka to the Ancient Agora. The ancient agora was the original social, political, and commercial center of ancient Athens where people like Socrates and Plato hung out. A highlight is the Temple of Hephaistos which remains incredibly preserved.

If you’re not yet tired, you can visit the Keramikos Cemetery where you’ll find many marble tombstones dating to as far back as the 7th century BC. If you’re tired, or short on time, I’d skip it. Named after the potters’ workshops that flourished here in antiquity, the site is built on what were once the banks of the Eridanos river. In the 11-acre necropolis, you can wander among monumental tombstones, haunting epitaphs, and sections of the Themistoclean walls built in the 5th century BC. The on-site Oberlander museum is a trove of funerary treasures, from painted urns to perfume bottles. 

For dinner we recommend Merceri or choose another from our Athens Restaurant recommendations. For after dinner drinks tonight (or a light meal) head to The Clumsies, another absolutely fantastic bar.

If you’re a theatre buff, a fun thing to do in the evening is to catch a show at the theatre and you can actually see one at the ancient Odeon of Herodes Atticus on Acropolis hill. These shows are only in the summer and the seats are not comfortable (they’re ancient stone with no back support, trust me). You can find the list of events (typically June to October) here.

Day 3

With more time you can visit a few other of Athen’s best museums including the Benaki Museum of Greek History and Culture (artifacts from the ancient world, Byzantine, and Ottoman empires housed in a Neoclassical mansion), the Museum of Cycladic art (the world’s largest collection of Cycladic art from 2000 BC), the Byzantine and Christian Museum, or the National Gallery (including works from top artists around the world from 1850 forward).

Central market is the modern-day version of the Ancient Agora. Wander the entire market square to get a taste of modern-life Athens (closed Sundays).

With more time you can explore Psyrri, one of the oldest neighborhoods in Greece, but now a lively bohemian district. It’s an easy five minute walk from the ancient agora. Hero’s square is the center of action, or do a self-guided tour of street art (you can find the best at the Foundry Hotel, Sarri street, Epikourou road, the corner of Sarri and Riga Palamidou streets winding down Riga Palamidou, and the Old Fire Station, or wander the foodie market along Evripidou street. Pittaki Street has now been turned into a light show which is a really fun thing to visit at night. Or if you like shopping some good stores that sell handmade Greek items include Melissinos Sandals, Natural Greek Fabrics, Parnès, The Naxos Apothecary, Monastiraki Flea Market, Forget me Not, Attic Black shop, Prigkipo, and Mouki Mou.

If you’re looking to extend your trip further (but not get all the way out to Hydra or the Peloponnese) you can explore the closer “Athens Riviera” which extends 35 miles from Paleo Faliro to the Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion.

Either in combination with one of the other beaches listed, or on its own, make your way to the Doric Temple of Poseidon at Sounion, built in the 5th century BC. Nearby is a small bay near the Aegeon Beach Hotel (you can use the beach even if you aren’t staying at the hotel) and a few decent restaurants, Elias and Marida. Nearby is also Lagrena Beach another very pretty beach. This area is a fantastic place from which to watch the sunset. Car, taxi, or organized tour is easiest to do this, though there are buses that run along the coast and leave every hour on the half hour which leave from the bottom of Pedion Areos near the National Archaeological Museum.

If you prefer swimming and lounging, some places to think about hauling up for the day include those in and near Vouliagmeni. The Coastal Tram goes as far as Voula and from there you can take the 122 bus which goes along the coast as far as Saronida. The easiest way to get to the beaches is by car. Glyfada Beach is the closest and has a tram from Athens. Astir Beach in Vouliagmeni is one of the nicest beaches where you can enjoy the remains of an ancient temple to Apollo while sitting on your sunbed. You have to pay to get in, but once you’re in you get access to umbrellas, beach chairs, and a snack bar. You can get here by taking the Metro Red Line to Glyfada and taking the bus from there (but a taxi is easier). Surfers enjoy Kavouri and Vouliagmeni beaches. Krabo feels younger, Zen beach is nice for families. If you want an unorganized beach (no sunbeds), consider Legrena or KAPE. Lake Vouliagmeni is the closest spa to the city (and comes with an entrance fee) and it’s really like a big natural swimming pool. The water that comes into it supposedly relieves different ailments and it is a nice visit.

A further venture, but very lovely beach is Schinias beach, the most beautiful beach in Attika. It has a pine forest that extends to the sea and from the beach you can dine at one of the several fish tavernas (like Glaros). You can get here from one of the KTEL Attika buses at the botoom of Pedion Areos.