American Southwest to Rockies

American Southwest to Rockies

This trip hits many of the highlights of the amazing American southwest: Native American dwellings, canyon lands, and a scenery like nowhere else on earth. It ends in the gorgeous Rocky Mountains. This is the USA so (obviously) a car based trip (hard to get around this country without one), but the roads are generally uncrowded and the driving is easy. This is among the great American road trips. But lest you despair, there’s a whole lot of amazing hiking as well – so pack your hiking gear.

Length – 12 days

Transportation – Car

Day 1 – Las Vegas

Day 2 – Zion

Day 3 – Zion

Day 4 – Bryce Canyon

  • Drive to Bryce Canyon (1h48m drive)
  • Explore Bryce 
    • Navajo Loop, Fairytale Loop, Peek-a-Boo Loop, Wall Street, or Queen’s Garden
  • Drive to Springdale/Zion (1h48m drive) 
  • Dinner – try a place not tried the night before
  • Lodging – same place (night 3/3)

Day 5 – Grand Canyon

Day 6 – Antelope Canyon and Horseshoe Bend

Day 7 – Page to Monument Valley to Mesa Verde

Day 8 – Mesa Verde

Day 9 Telluride

Day 10 – Ouray to Aspen

Day 11 – Aspen to Boulder

Day 12 – Fly home

Detailed Itinerary

Day 1 – Las Vegas

Las Vegas is among the most popular destinations in the United States and I think it may be all some people ever see of this country. It is a town built solely to party. There are lots of shows and casinos. Nothing about it is authentic – you can visit fake New York, fake Paris, fake Venice. We think it is worth a visit (mostly because it’s a good launching point for this trip) but also to marvel over the excess in the dessert and to contrast it with the natural marvels to come. We have you land here and leave the next morning, primarily for its easy flight access to the area. Though if you’ve been to Vegas before, we strongly recommend just grabbing your car and head out of town to Zion. If you want to really explore Las Vegas, you may want to add a day (spending 2 nights in Vegas instead).

The Las Vegas welcome sign

Our number one piece of advice: wear comfortable shoes. Get prepared to do a lot of walking. Adjectives that come to mind when describing Vegas is over-the-top, glitzy, ostentatious, fake…you get the gist. Seemingly plopped into the Nevada desert, once you arrive you can instantly pretend you’re in another world. Our recs have nothing to do with gambling (we don’t like gambling and don’t think it’s the only point of Vegas) but any casino offers plenty (visit different ones to find the best deals). Yes there are multiple parts of Vegas, but with one day, you’ll predominantly stick to the tourist zone – the Strip. Getting around Vegas can get pricey. Primarily we will recommend you walk, but another cheap option is to take the bus (the Deuce).

Start by visiting the “Welcome to Fabulous Las Vegas Nevada” sign, a neon sign from the 1950s on your way from the airport. Then head to the Strip. The Strip is where all of the main casinos/sites are. The entire Strip is 4 miles – as we said, get ready to walk. You can walk in for free to any casino to see the decoration inside. Start at Luxor Hotel then head to head to Excalibur and if you’re there in time, see the tournament of the kings. Then head to The Park, MGM’s outdoor space filled with restaurants and art. After head to New York New York. Next is Paris Las Vegas and Fountains of Bellagio for the fountain show. Next check out Caesar’s Palace and the Fall of Atlantis Show. Check out the free Wildlife Habitat at Flamingo Las Vegas then High Roller to see the tallest ferris wheel in the world. After this stop by The Venetian and if you’re feeling extra fancy take a gondola ride along the canals. Explore The Mirage’s outdoor oasis.

You may be tired and ready for a pool, but if not, now’s your chance to see Old Las Vegas, or the original Strip that offers some nostalgia. Visit the Golden Gate Hotel and Casino along Fremont Street where you’ll see Art Deco decor and the original wall. The throwback, upbeat atmosphere in the casino is reminiscent of frequent visits from Frank Sinatra and the Rat Pack. Check out Vegas Vic nearby which welcomed tourists to Vegas in 1947. Head to the Neon Museum with restored displays going back decades. Binion’s Horseshoe is one of the oldest hotels and supposedly haunted. Also out here is the Mob Museum that explores the history of organized crime of Sin City’s most infamous mobsters. They also have a speakeasy-style bar and Prohibition-era distillery you can check out. Fremont street also tends to have free nightly live music. If you don’t feel like venturing so far out, you could also stop by Area 15 which offers fantastical art exhibits or the Bellagio Conservatory & Botanical Gardens.

Grab a drink at Ghost Donkey, Herbs & Rye or one of our recommended drink spots.

Dinner is likely to be pricey. Dining in Las Vegas just is. However, you’ll also find some incredible restaurants (and many Michelin starred). This is certainly not a comprehensive list but some places you may want to check out (and our favorites) include those on our Las Vegas Restaurant Scene.

For lodging, we recommend yous stay on the Strip (isn’t that why you’re here?). We like The Cosmopolitan the best. Other good options include Wynn Las Vegas, NoMad Las Vegas, The Palazzo, Vdara, Waldorf Astoria, Aria, Park MGM Las Vegas.

Day 2 – Zion

Zion

If you didn’t drive in the night before, it’s about a three-hour easy drive to Zion National Park. This is seriously spectacular country. Unlike the Grand Canyon where you marvel from above, here you drive in and marvel from below. It’s a giant land of red sandstone thousands of feet tall. Stay in Springdale for easy park access. To keep crowds down you cannot drive into the valley unless staying at the lodging inside the park (there’s just one – the Zion Lodge – which is quite a ways from the town). The shuttle from the visitor center however is easy (though in season you may need to wait – grab an early shuttle to avoid the lines).

The most popular hike for view in the valley is Angels Landing. You will need a permit to do this hike, and be prepared for steep going with a ton of switchbacks (likely best to avoid if its hot). Other great hikes include Canyon Overlook, Weeping Rock, Hidden Canyon, and Emerald Pools. Grab a map or talk to a park service ranger at the visitor center.

For drinks, visit Zion Canyon Brew Pub with tons of local microbrews on tap. Our favorite restaurant is King’s Landing Bistro, so check it out tonight.

We loved staying at Cliffrose Lodge with its beautiful property and proximity to good restaurants. But if you absolutely want to stay in the park, Zion Lodge is truly lovely.

Day 3 – Zion

There are a lot of great hikes in the world. The Zion Narrows Walk may be the best. A few caveats: 1) It can get crowded – go early to avoid the crowds; 2) You cannot go if there is rain in the mountains – flash floods mean the route is not safe; 3) You will spend much of your time walking in water – bring water shoes of some sort; 4) You’ll want trekking poles or some sort of walking stick. When we have been there there are usually a lot of walking sticks left at the trailhead (but why chance it?); 5) Wear clothes you don’t mind getting wet and/ or a swimsuit.

Grab a bus to the end of the road, head up the canyon, starting on a trail. Before very long the “trail” becomes the river. Sheer sandstone cliffs tower hundreds of feet above you. Keep going – the canyon gets narrower and deeper the further you go. You can turn around anywhere you like – or if you have arranged a shuttle you can make a very long trip quite a few miles upriver (and camp if you’d like).  Don’t turn around until you’ve at least reached the first tributary on the right – a narrow slot canyon where you can almost touch both walls at once. When it’s time to turn back you might consider floating part of the way. If you took our advice and left early as you head out you will likely pass wall-to-wall tourists coming up.

Zion Narrows “hike”

Day 4 – Bryce Canyon National Park

Just a couple of hours north of Zion is spectacular Bryce National Park. This has a very different look from Zion but is also spectacular. Be sure and walk down into the canyon amongst the “hoodoos”. Some of the best hikes include Navajo Loop, Fairytale Loop, Peek-a-Boo Loop, Wall Street, and Queen’s Garden. Plan for a picnic lunch and grab sandwiches before you leave Zion. Spend the day here then return to your lodging at the entrance to Zion.

Bryce

Day 5 – Grand Canyon North Rim

Today is a bit of a drive to get to the grand canyon (about 3 hours), but we suggest a stop along the way. As you leave Zion you climb along a very scenic drive cut into a rock wall. If you haven’t already, stop and check out some of the interesting rock formations at the top as you climb out of the canyon. Park at the Canyon Overlook parking area and walk 1/2 mile along pine creek to an amazing view over the canyon.

After about an hour further driving consider a short detour to Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park. Then continue on to the north rim of the Grand Canyon. The north rim is far less visited than the south rim but is no less spectacular. We suggest checking into to Grand Canyon Lodge – built of native timber and sandstone in 1928 and perched right on the rim. Be sure and do the 1/2 mile walk to Bright Angel pPoint for some spectacular views. We also suggest a hike down into the canyon – looking from the rim the canyon looks almost fake so walk down in for a real sense of the grandeur. The Cliff Springs Trail and Angel’s Window is a good choice. Or arrange a burro ride – for an hour or a half day. A walk all the way to the bottom is a very serious endeavor and most people cannot make it in one long day. It’s 14.3 miles and 6000 feet down (and another 14 miles / 6000 feet up) – there are a lot of folks who need to be rescued who try it. If you must do this, plan for at least another day and possibly camping at the bottom.

Grand Canyon

Day 6 – Antelope Canyon and Horseshoe Bend

Today you’ll drive about 2 1/2 hours to Antelope Canyon. You should have a reservation in advance to visit antelope canyon – it is VERY popular. The canyons are on Navajo land. You can opt for the upper canyon (with famous rays of light causing interesting effects at the right time) or the beautiful south canyon – which is less busy but involves more stair climbing and is narrower. In either case these are amazing slot canyons and well worth a tour.

Upper Antelope Canyon

After your tour stop by nearby Horseshoe Bend for an iconic view of the Colorado River. This is where the Colorado River curves 270 degrees to make a dramatic horseshoe-shaped canyon. When you arrive, you’ll walk about 1/2 a mile one way along a trail trail from the parking lot to reach the scenic overlook.

Horseshoe Bend

From here it is a short drive to your lodging in Page, Arizona. Here you’ll find all of the standard US chains lodgings – Hyatt Place Page Lake Powell or Country Inn and Suites Radisson are probably the best (but none are all that exciting). You could opt to stay about 30 minutes away instead at luxurious Amangiri (and this is our pick, but it will add more driving to a long day tomorrow).

For drinks we recommend Grand Canyon Brewing and Distillery. For dinner, we recommend Big John’s, BirdHouse, The Blue Wine and Tapas Bar, or State 48 Tavern.

Day 7 Monument Valley

Start your day with coffee at LP Espresso before beginning your drive. Today is a longish driving day (about 5 hours plus the Monument Valley driving tour). If you want to add a day to your trip, you can stay at Monument Valley at the View Hotel. Otherwise plan an early start and head out to Monument Valley. This is the Southwest you’ve seen in a hundred John Ford westerns. The land here is filled with giant mesas of red sandstone. Monument Valley is one of the Navajo tribal parks and very much worth a stop. Buy a pass and drive through the heart of the area. Alternatively you can hire a jeep tour. Plan 2-3 hours. While the drive is only 17 miles, it’s generally 15 miles per hour and you’ll want to stop for photos.

Monument Valley

After this, continue driving another 3 hours to Mesa Verde. This is quite a change in scenery as the elevation climbs to a much greener 7000 feet. The only lodging really nearby is the park lodge called the Far View Lodge, which is a beautiful place to stay with an the excellent restaurant Metate (I’m still dreaming of the Bison shepherd’s pie years later).

Day 8 – Mesa Verde

Today you will explore the ancient cliff dwellings of Mesa Verde. We recommend booking tours of both Cliff Palace and Long house, but plan for a hike or two as well as this is a beautiful area. Be prepared for ladders and stairs. If you want to, you can arrange guided hikes to more remote/distant ruins as well.

Cliff Palace
Cliff Palace

After your day of exploring this amazing area drive north a couple of hours to Telluride. Telluride is an amazingly scenic old mining town surrounded by high snow capped mountains – and because of the major ski resort, has tons of lodging and dining options.

For dinner we recommend Tacos del Gnar, 221 South Oak, The Cosmopolitan, There Bar, Caravan, Brown Dog Pizza, or Allred’s.

For drinks we recommend Telluride Brewing Company, New Sheridan Historic Bar, There Bar, Stronghouse Brew Pub, or Smuggler Union Restaurant and Brewery.

For Lodging, we recommend Hotel Columbia, Madeline Hotel & Residences, New Sheridan Hotel or Victorian Hotel. Though you can look at a ski condo rental.

Day 9 – Telluride

Today is your day to sample what Telluride has to offer (and it’s a lot). In Telluride you can find hiking (consider 2.4 mile roundtrip Bridal Veil Falls, 6 mile out-and-back Hope Lake trail, or 12.4 mile out-and-back Sneffels Highline Trail), via ferreta (hiking/climbing/mountaineering across two miles of steel rungs drilled into a sheer cliff face), paragliding, fly fishing, mountain biking, rock climbing, 4X4 off-roading and ATVing, rafting, music festivals, film festivals, historic walking tour, and even golf. Look at San Juan Outdoor Adventures, Mountain Trip, Telluride Outside for to book your adventures. Enjoy great dining in town tonight at a different place than the night before.

Downtown Telluride

Day 10 – Ouray to Aspen

Get breakfast at The Butcher & The Baker or The Coffee Cowboy. There’s some driving today but a great stop along the way is beautiful Ouray (“the Switzerland of America”). Take a quick jaunt to Box Canyon falls trail, then head to the Ouray pools/hot springs for some enjoyable soaking. Have lunch at Ouray Brewery on their rooftop terrace.

After lunch, drive 3 1/2 hours to Aspen. Aspen has some of the priciest real estate in the county, but the old mining town is still plenty cute. Enjoy poking around the town. Consider a concert at Belly Up Aspen.

For dinner, consider Bosq, French Alpine Bistro, White House Tavern, Ellina, Meat and Cheese, Mawa’s Kitchen Aspen, Campo de Fiori, Keniche, Matsuhisa, and Steak House No. 316. For a drink head to Hooch.

Lodging in town is very expensive, though Hotel Jerome, Aspen Street LodgeLimelight Hotel Aspen, are very nice, but you may want to consider a condo in nearby Snowmass.

Ouray Hot Springs complex

Day 11 – Aspen

Start with breakfast at Poppycock’s, Jour de Fête, Paradise Bakery & Cafe. Today we suggest a hike to Maroon Bells. In a state renown for scenery this is the most photographed area. And this hike is pleasant and fairly mellow. The twist is that the parking area at the trailhead is very limited so in summer between 8 and 5 you must ride a shuttle from Aspen Highlands ski area.

Maroon Bells Hike

After returning to the trailhead get back in the car for the drive to Boulder, almost 4 hours away. Check into your hotel and wander the charming brick-lined pedestrian-only Pearl Street Mall – with tons of shops, restaurants, and bars. Boulder is a foodie destination so you have a choice of great places.

For a local brew visit Avery Brewing Company, Wild ProvisionsSanitasUpslopeTwisted Pine, or Uhl’s (yes, there are many). For a cocktail hit up Bramble and Hare or The Bitter Bar. Or for a non-alcoholic tea option visit Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse.

For dinner we have many recommendations: Frasca Food and Wine, Ash’kara, Black Cat, The Kitchen Bistro, Salt, River and Woods,  Mateo, Oak at Fourteenth, T/aco, Corrida, Flagstaff House, Avanti, Spruce Farm & Fish, Blackbelly, or Pizzeria Locale.

For lodging, look at Hotel Boulderado, Bradley Boulder Inn, Boulder Guest House, or the quite expensive St. Julien Hotel and Spa.

Day 12 – Home

Grab breakfast at The Buff or Snooze. From Boulder it’s only about 45 minutes to drive to the Denver airport, drop your car, and fly home. If you have time in the morning we suggest a hike in the Flatirons – rock formations just above the town of Boulder which are quite scenic and which you can reach by Chautauqua Trail. Or with more time, extend your trip and visit nearby Rocky Mountain National Park.

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